I am trying to figure out mph for 1/4 times. What would be the mph for a 10.80-10.89; 10.90-10.99; 11.00-11.09; 11.10-11.19; 11.20-11.29, and 11.30-11.39?
Any info, web sites, or personal experince would be helpfull. I know this is info depends on the combination some, but I am trying to get a around about idea.

www.prestage.com (http://www.prestage.com)

You should be able to go 11.2Xs to 11.1Xs with your mph, if thats what you're wondering. But there are some cars that I've seen go 10.90@118, so that is possible.

Go to the NHRA Stock records to see some time/mph relationships in reasonably stock cars.

http://www.nhra.com/stats/stk_record.html

That is kinnda why I am asking. I am in the process of getting some suspension changes. My best 60ft. is 1.59 with 28 "slicks. I only ran one 1.59. My best 60ft with 25,5 drag radials is 1.60, I also only ran one. I thinkI should be getting a better 60ft. I was running out of gear with the 25.5 radials going through about 6400-6500 rpm. With the 28" slick I was going through right about when my 6000 chip light came on, possibly a little bit before it came on. The differences between the lauches is : with a 28 slick I can foot brake and leave at 3000Rpm. With the 25.5 radials I can't leave a 3000 and still be able to hook. I think that the 25.5 radials might be okay if I can get a better 60ft out of them becaus then I would be further done the track when I run out of gear, possiblt going through at about 6100-6300 which I think would get be a better ET than going through at 5800-6000. All of this is just speculation and talk between me and my dad. I might need a taller tire, but probably not a 28". Maybe a true 26-27" tire. My drag radial only have about 13 passes on them, still have alot of the grooves left. I am also curious as to what air pressure to run. I was running like 18lbs. What do you think, what are your thoughts. There is nothing I would like more than to run at least a couple of high 10.90's. But I really don't think that will happen without some more weight loss on my car, or more motor, NO2. I have a NO2 kit, but have decided not to run it because of the times I am turning with cast flat top pistons. Not hyper, not forged , CAST. If I did run it I would only be spraying like 75 any way. And I figured as soon as I run the NO2 I will get grouped into a NO2 car, and I am not going to be running enuff of it to be Competitive. I did buy some full roller rockers, I broke one of my roller tip rockers so I bought the summit brand full rollers. They look very nice. The quality looks good. I am trying to pull rabbits out of a hat I guess, but none the less I am trying to get as fast as possible without pulling the motor. I am also going to be trying a 750 mech. sec. Demon to see if my car wants some more cfm. I am hoping to go to the track this Sat. weath permitting and if they get it finished, first time track openning, I will probablly have trouble hooking, but I will post if I get some good runs.

The 750demon should help, a dual plane will handle a bigger carb no prob.
Are you going up in rocker ratio from 1.5s to 1.6s? if so that will help.
Hoosier QTP are available in 27"x11.5", so that should fix your gearing.
And my last piece of advise - sell that darn bottle kit, and spend the money
on some head work!!! you could pick up that 40hp there, and run 10.90s
on motor - with a mellow "daily driver cam", gotta luv that!
(bring those heads to me, in Houston, because 30cfm more is easy) ;)
Good luck, keep us posted

I think you are right that there is some e.t. left in there. I run a little less mph than you but went 11.26 on 28" drag radials.

It's all about the first 60' for e.t. and in my opinon the first 60' is all about the converter. I am a little over stalled perhaps but it gives me nice e.t. even though I lose a little MPH due to converter slippage on the top end.

Give us your complete engine specs and suspension specs and we can give some more insight.

18lbs. could be the right number on the drag radials. When I used a 275/50 on a 10" rim mine liked about 20-22 lbs. When I went to a 275/60 on an 8.5" rim I needed to drop the pressure to 16-18 to get the footprint and tire wear i wanted. The rule of thumb is that you want to run at the highest pressure that will still hook.

I know a few have seen my specs before:)
355 ci.
9.7,9.8 compression
Trick flow twisted wedge heads
268 extreme cam- 477/480 lift(224/230 @0.050)
1.5 roller tip rockers,
RPM Performer intake
holley 650 double pumper
headman headers- full length
turbo 350 trans,cheetah manuel valve body
10" BTE stall
26 in. tall tires Drag Radials
4:11 posi trac 10 bolt
Dynomax bullet mufflers with about 14-18" pipe before mufflers, about 6-9" after muffler turn downs, pipe is 2 1/2 diam.
I am using the factory designed suspension. But, I have tubular lower control arms, Adj. with hyme joints on each end. I am running subframe connectors. I just shorted my torque arm about 1 ft, was right about factory length, torque arm is made out out seamless tubing, very similar to the aftermarket ones. My torque arm was solid mounted, which I think is causing problems by not allow the rear end to move, plant the tires. To fix the problem I am getting a shackle,I guess that would be what to call it. It will allow movement of the torque arm back and forth. The factory arm moves back and forth. The S&W Race torque arm is almost identical. My rims are 15 X 8. Drag radials are 275/50 I think, about 25.5 " tall, about 10-12 wide. New rocker ratio is still 1.5. I didn't want to have to worry about getting new springs, 1st generation twisted wedge heads have a small spring pocket, 1.25 I think, does that sound right. I am also running a forced induction system, you can look at my car to see how the air goes into the scoop, I am running an air filter. I think the converter is a little loose, looser than my dad's TCI 10" for sure.
Car lifts tires when leaving, twisted though. Drivers tire is about 5-7 " off ground, passenger is about 2-4". I may be getting some sort of anti roll device, sway bar in the rear to even it out. I am running the factory posi unit out of the 79' Z 28 rear that I am using, I am wondering if it is causing some slip on one side before engaing both tires.
Best times are in my sig. Left at 3000 RPM on 28" slicks, left between 2200-2500 on drag radials.
http://photos.yahoo.com/bink_n_steph

oh yeah, car weighs about 2900 or so with me in it.

Your lift would be 512" if you went with 1.6 rockers, but I cant tell you
that your springs would handle it. Stick an air bag in the right rear, that
will fix most of your body twist and improve your 60ft times. What kinda
air filter do you run? K&N top on it? And no, you dont have forced air induction,
as that means - turbo, blower, spray, just so you dont confuse anyone with
your combo (all motor) - you have a ram/cold air set up.
What size headers are those again?

My bad about the forced induction thing, as I was reading what you were saying I realized what I wrote. Brain Fart

I am running 1 5/8 headers. I am running a purolator filter cost about 3-5 bucks, but it was brand new! :rolleyes: I have been thinming about getting a K&N filter, but havent done it yet.

Also from talking to my dad tonight in the shop, he was saying that after looking at it the other day before we pulled the rear end that I had no pinion angle.

I am running springs around my shocks with the passenger side pre loaded, still pulls up crooked. When we preloaded the passenger side more because of fender rubbing on slick it made me pull side ways when doing a burn out, could not get it to stop with out stiffening the other side more, pulled up crooked that pass too.

Sorry I missed some of those engine specs in your signature...I was just looking at the e.t.

All I can say is congratulations on running some great numbers. A 355 with less than 10:1 and a relatively small flat tappet cam at 11.37 is killer in my opinion. I've got you by 50 cubic inches with a whole lot more cam (roller at that) and still only run a tenth quicker (I ran 11.76 with a flat tappet). You are about 500 lbs. lighter but still, you are flat getting it done.

I don't know anything about suspension on third gens, but if you can get it to stay level on launch you should be able to pick up a little e.t.

Do you have a roll bar in it?

The roll bar is on the gorund beside it still in the packageing. My car weighed about 2750 with out me in it. I weigh 170. The roll bar wieghed 77lbs. That is without any cutting of the pipe to get it to fit. I also put weld wheels on 15x8 in rear, 15 x 4.5. before I had steel 15x8, and 15x 6 with 205/75 on front. My drag lites are quite a bit lighter, I am running volkwagon radial tires on the front. So I am still figureing about the same weight, give or take a little. I plan on weighing it with a more reliable scale soon.

Greg O,
what kind of trap rpm's are you getting with that cam? Do you know where peak horsepower is on your combo? I am trying to select a cam for my 406.
Thanks,
Doc

racerdoc,

My trap RPMs were around 6300 but my converter has excessive slippage on the top end. If I were to switch to a tight 8" from the loose 10" I would probably drop 2-300 RPMs. 95% of my track time is in the 1/8th so I haven't worried about it. I cross at about 5500 in the 1/8th :D

I only have about 35 passes with this cam so I am still sorting out shift points and trying to find peak HP rpm. My guess right now is that HP peaks at 6000 and 6200 will be my best shift point. I'll know more this summer.