Obviously, I just started my new engine. The engine is a .040" over 400 small block with 5.7" rods, 9.8:1 compression, Trick Flow aluminum heads, Performer RPM intake, Comp Cams XE 274 camshaft, and 600 cfm Holley in a 69 Camaro.

All of the bearing clearances came out on the tight side, but still within specifications (just barely). When I shut it off, it stops imediately. I know the engine is tight and new but is this normal?

Right now, I have the stock two core radiator. It did get up to around 220 degrees at idle sitting still. It was just about 70 degrees outside and the hood wasn't on the car. I think that I will be alright with a small block four core radiator from Rick's to keep temps in check. Does anyone disagree? How much will the temperature drop after the motor gets broken in?

Also, do roller rockers make more noise than normal. I don't hear valve clatter, but I do hear alot of valve train noise. Is this normal?

Finally, what kind of horsepower might I expect from this combo? Desktop Dyno says about 400hp. It also says that the Performer RPM combo produces around 360hp on a 350 when Edelbrock claims 420hp. What can I expect to run in the quarter mile with this combo, an M20 and a 2.73 rear gear and a 3.23 rear gear? It currently has a 2.73. It will soon have a 3.23 (or somewhere in that area).

Thanks,
Cameron

I don't know what it will run in the quarter but mine hauls! You are going to have trouble with the manual transmission. The take off is going to be a dog. That combo is for an automatic and a higher stall convertor.

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68 RS, Ash Gold,pwr brakes,pwr windows,Hounds tooth,355/T350,MSD 6AL,3200 stall Dynamic converter,3.31:1 posi,Autometer guage pod

It should run good w/ the 3.23 gears under it if you go w/ a wide 25" tire!!
My 406 has a Melling 280/230, .480" cam, -461's w/ big valves, a 2101 early Performer and 750 Q-Jet, M-20 and 3.31's w/ old L-60/14"s. It didn't do very good until it hit about 2500/3000rpm then it really took off.

It got to where it didn't shift very well so I used to just use third and forth. It slipped and bucked alittle but once it got rolling, away I went. Had alotta Torque!!! I gotta check my clutch and clutch linkage before I install my big engine. pdq67

Cameron,

It is very normal for an fresh engine to stop immediately when you kill it. There is still alot of parasitic drag at the rings. Th bearings being tight is good (as long as they stay within sugggested tolerances) as this will allow more oil to stay up at the top of the engine at the valve train hwere it is really needed. Are you sure that it is valve trian noise that you hear? If you have installed forged pistons in your rebuild, they tend to be a little noisy as they have to be installed a little loose to allow for them to expand when they warm up. Forged pistons have a distinct noise to them. As far as the heat goes, I would be ver surprised if you engine would quit running higher temperatures as it breaks in. Most of the heat that an engine generates is from the combustion in the chamber, not from friction. What kind of timing are you running? Could it be a litle high? Timing can cause variations in engine temperature.

Good luck with it though. It sounds like you have got a very decent "street" combination.

Mike

After looking at your combination again, 400's tend to run a little hotter than most small blocks as the cylinder bores are siamesed and you have taken .040" of metal out of each one. The less metal you have, the quicker your heat wil be transferred to your coolant. You may not have any problems once you install that larger radiator and drive it around (pushing air through the grill). Again, best of luck!!

[This message has been edited by gardnerme (edited 08-24-2001).]

I drove it around some more today. As long as I am moving, it stays at around 190 degrees. I let it idle in the driveway for 10 or 15 minutes and it did gradually work its way up to 215-220 degrees. I'm not complaining. I don't know how many times that I have heard that I will have a hard time keeping this engine cool and so far, a two row radiator is almost doing it. I think that if I upgrade from the four blade to a clutch fan, I may be alright.

Also, has anyone tried Water Wetter from Red Line Oils? I have heard that it works great and that it doesn't work at all. Any opinions?

i'd say give the water wetter a try, hey i dont think it can hurt. and if it helps all the better http://www.camaros.net/forum/smile.gif

I had a two row that would not properly cool a beefed 350. I don't see how it would cool a 400!!!
David

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Check my web page for First Gen Camaro suspension info:
David's Motorsports page (http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/David_Pozzi/)
First Gen Suspension Page (http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/David_Pozzi/first_gen_suspension.htm)
67 RS 327
69 Camaro Vintage Racer
65 Lola T-70 Chev 350 Can-Am Vintage Racer

I was as surprised as you are. I thought the guage might be wrong so I put it in a pot of water on the stove. Sure enough, as soon as it hit 210, the water started boiling. If this isn't a valid test, someone please tell me. The car has yet to boil over though. In fact, I have yet to hear any boiling at all, even after I shut it down and I am running straight water. Don't worry, it is coming out soon.

Along the same line, just wondering how many pound radiator cap should I run. If I fill my radiator to the top.It will spit some out of the overflow hose when I shut it off. It seem like it likes the water to be 1 or 2 inches below the cap neck. I dont have a overflow bottle, but just wondering. I think its a 13 pound cap.

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Black 69 camaro

I think water wetter will lay all of your inhabation's to rest, you will be running very cool, I'v seen that stuff tame a boiling over 396 with just one 8oz treatment.