I'm replacing my exhaust manifolds with a set of Summit Headers this weekend. Does anyone know anything that I should know? I see a lot posted about the nice name brands, but not much on run-of-the-mill Summit house-brand. I couldn't sink $300 or more in a set, so I had to settle. Maybe next time...

So far I've removed all the paint that came on them (that crappy black stuff to keep them from rusting in the box). I've sanded them down well, and I've removed all residue with oil/wax remover. As soon as my Eastwood paint gets here (UPS this afternoon), I'm painting them & hope to install them tomorrow. Chime in if you think of anything. Otherwise, I'll update this with what I've run into.

all i can think of is that you should have done a trial fit before you sanded all the factory applied paint off. that way, you know if they fit, or if they need a little "massaging" to make them fit, all before you go thru the trouble of painting them up all pretty.

Don't overtighten the bolts. 30 - 35 foot pounds is usually enough. Run the car to heat them up. After it cools off, re-torque the bolts.

Check them every so often. They have a tendancy to get loose.

OH MY GOSH WHAT A MISTAKE?? My father-in-law & I started at 10:30 in the morning yesterday. The exhaust manifolds were pretty easy to get off. I took the AC off for easy access. I tried to tackle the driver side first. I managed to finagle it in place, and even managed to get all the bolts started. It was a little difficult, but doable. Note that there is no socket that will fit on four of the six bolts because the bold it so close to the port (how to torque those??). I guess that is GM's fault. I was feeling good until I started tightening & found that the top of the header wasn't flush with the engine. I need some more clearance somehow. I'm not sure how, though...the only thing I could do is bend one of the brake lines that goes down between the header & the edge of the engine bay & Pray it doesn't kink. That MIGHT give me an extra 1/2 inch. Is it okay for the header to be that close to the brake lines?

We moved on to the passenger side. It looked as thought this would be an easy fit. Same problem with the bolts...no way to get a socket on five of the six, so how do you toque this? Then I discovered the worst of my problems. One of the exhaust ports close to the firewall, via the header, is wrapped around such that the bolt closest to the firewall BARELY has enough clearance to get in...much less a normal person's hand. I couldn't get to it after trying for an hour, my father-in-law couldn't get to it & tried about the same. I employed my tiny sister-in-law. She managed to get her hand down there & get it in. It looked right, until about four revolutions with a close-end wrench of being finished, it siezed up. I fear it is cross-threaded.

Not to mention that whenever I do get my car back together, I'll have to take it to a muffler shop to get the exhaust mated to the header...it seems modifications are required.

What a pile of crap. Did I expect too much? If I bought a more expensive header (other than the Summit house brand), would I get a better fit? Anybody have any solutions for my predicament, to at least make this a little easier? I do most of my work, but I blew twelve hours of time yesterday to accomplish this. I'm thinking of having this booger towed somewhere & handing this torch to somebody else. Would a normal mechanic do this work, or would you take it to a muffler shop?

Thanks for all of your support. I wish you all better luck than I have had.

Summary of problems: Brake line proximity to header; moving brake line out of the way to provide more clearance. How do you torque most of the bolts...can't get a socket around the bolt. STUPID routing of the port on the passenger side. How do you start the bolt closest to the firewall? How do you fix a cross-threaded hole (I'm guessing I'll have to remove the head? CRAP!). Where do you take this to get it done by paying someone off? Lastly, when it is done, how the heck am I supposed to change my spark plugs. While I had the manifolds off, I saw the opportuinity & changed them with Bosch Quad-end plugs. But...how do you do this when they are toast? Please don't tell me to take the header off smile.gif .

Thanks again!
Scott

Being cheap up front usually ends up burning you in the end.By the time you tow it to someone and pay the bill you could have bought a sweet set of headers. You didn't say what year your car is but i bought a set of Dynomax ceramic coated headers from summit for $227 and they fell in with no problems. If i was you i would get a set of those, try returning the other set(not likley) or recoup some money by selling your other set on Ebay. As far as the head bolt, try chasing the hole with the correct size tap and it should be OK.Forget the socket, you need a wrench. I used to use a wrench that i modified on my other car because of clearance issues.

yeah, some header bolts can be a pain... had to use a boxed end wrench and had to actually modify the wrench to be able to get that rearmost passenger's side one.

Sorry it is being such a pain... most headers have some installation hassles.

I also bought ARP header bolts. The smaller heads make it easier to get a wrench on them. I would also try chasing the thread on that one with a tap before resorting to anything more drastic. I think you'll be OK. You should be able to slightly bend the brake line to get more clearance.

Maybe an allen head bolt on #8?

Those cast iron manifolds are lookin' AWEFULY good right about now. tongue.gif

They are ALL are like that to one degree or another.

-Mark.

I have the Dynomax ceramic coated headers...they are great for the $$$. #8 header bolt...I had to get creative. Try a crows foot. It seemed to be the thing that worked for me.

Good luck

Bob

Okay...for anyone reading this considering buying headers...stay away from the house-brand Summit headers for the 305 unless you are absolutely sure that is what you want to do. I went local & found a set of Hedmans that seem to fit like a glove, outside of what looks to be a slight exhaust modification need (darn it!!). One hour for these with some satisfcation, versus all day long for the Summit jobs with no satisfaction. Hmmmm...

I'm not bad-mouthing Summit at all, but I'd recommend going to look at the header you are buying...and imagining how you are going to get it on. Lessons Learned! Hopefully Summit will take these back. If not, I don't know that I can sell them on e-bay. I couldn't do that to somebody. LOL.

Scott

Look around for someone with a circle track car. Most weekend hobby racers will be able to make a set of those fit in their car especially if the price is right. I installed Dynomax coated headers in the 69. They installed in a snap. I have Hooker Super Comps in the 75 and they went in like a breeze. I have SLP shorties in the 93 Z28 and they were an absolute pain. It isn't the headers, it is the engine bay clearance that is is the issue in a 4th Gen. I didn't have to dimple them anywhere but it sure is a pain to get them bolted in. By the way, use grade 8 hex head bolts. You can access them easier and torquing them isn't a problem.

i bought summit shorties for my 85 z28, they fit ok, had trouble with someof the bolts too, i used an open end wrench to get to them, it was tough work but i managed.

My favorite header tool. Take an open end wrench that is the size of your bolts(3/8" or 7/16") and cut it to about two inches long with a hacksaw. Then wrap the handle with some tape for better gripping. If you get the length just right, it's like having a custom header wrench that just misses the firewall but allows for a good range of motion...you'll love it!!! smile.gif

DTB,
That's what I had to do! :D

ARP makes some nice header bolts. I have the 12 point stainless and they require a 3/8" 12 point socket. I use a 1/4" drive socket because the wall is thinner and the wratchet is smaller. I can tighten them all with either the socket or a 3/8" ignition wrench. There are two bolts though that I use bolts with a 6 point 3/8" head --- right behind the #1 and #2 ports. Seems to work pretty good this way, but I have the Hedmans.