I happened across a free 350. On tearing it down to see what I had, I found an unfired rebuild. Everything brand new or rebuilt. Cam, lifters, resized rods, 10-10 cast crank, cast dished pistons, 4 bolt block, heads re-done (882's - ugh) timing set, oil pump, cam bearings - everything. Looks to be a production shop type rebuild - nuthin' fancy, but complete. Sadly, the motor was exposed to the weather and water got into 2 of the cyls. I removed the pistons on the 2 wet ones - the water rusted the bores enough that there is definitely a problem that needs to be addressed. The pistons say .060 on them - so I assume that's about it for this block. I have nothing invested so I stand to lose nothing, but something inside me says don't give up!! This is the venerable 4 bolt 350 that we all used to crave!!

Question:

Would it be worthwhile to sleeve the 2 cyls and salvage the block, and have those 2 bored/honed to re-use the brand new pistons, or should I just scrap it, sell the good parts(crank, heads, rods/pistons) and consider it done? I had a number in my head to sell the motor for $500, which I thought would be a good deal for someone who just needed a reliable replacement motor. But if it costs me $400 to get there, I ain't a gonna do it. Opinions? Thanks!!

if it were me i would just look for another one but how common is a 350 up where you are?
they are a dime a dozen down here?

Sleeving is a last resort for those people having 1) a numbers matching engine, 2) an engine with their life savings invested into it, then the sleeving labor becomes a small percentage of the investment/expediture.

The block is bored to the max, the crank has one more turn on it, 0.020" undersized, and who knows the condition of the oil galleys - the material in the oil galleys will go through the bearings. So if the block has been sitting outside and still together, maybe, but I doubt it. Wouldn't hurt to pop out the plugs and run a brush through them to see what comes out.

Stop at the shop and ask how much for sleeving. You're gonna have to super clean it, maybe an acid bath to help remove rust. But then, I'm not an engine professional either.

Depends on how you are going to use the engine. You will just have to clean the rust out of the cylinders to see how bad it really is. It might be best to take it all apart and just see how bad the cylinders are. Once it is apart clean it up the best you can and decide from there.

If its not going to be raced, it might be fine. Based on the components it has now (cast pistons and crank) you would want to beat on it hard anyway.

There is nothing wrong with running a properly sleeved block. I ran 10 teens with this block and it was sleeved. Can you tell which cylinder?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/steve69ss396/071908_12291.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/steve69ss396/071908_12281.jpg

To sleeve your existing block or go with a new one you are going to pay for machine work. Are you sure there is nothing else wrong with this block?

The real issue is if you salvage the engine you'll need a car to put it into. Looked at like that, it'll cost you $25K plus to resleeve that block. :D

Seriously, I'd pass and (if you really need another engine) look for a post-89(?) block set up for hydraulic rollers from the factory. There's got to be a lot of cheap SBC stuff available as the LSx's take over the hot rod scene.

Thanks guys. I didn't need a motor, was just asked if I wanted it and said yes. No other plans for it than to sell it and make a few bucks. Was surprised to find it had never been started, then kinda disappointed that water got in. I've decided just to sell it as is. If the buyer feels comfortable about honing it and running it then fine. It's priced really just for what I think a freshly ground crank, resized stock rods and new cast pistons might bring. (not much!)

Good move!!

Nothing wrong with sleeving,
"it'll cost you $25K plus to resleeve" someone is milking the prices..sounds more like a price a machine shop would give because they dont want the job with out admitting they cant do it.

how deep are the rust marks and where in the bore are they
If used for a cruiser slight imperfections will be ok if lower in the bores.

I had a similar decision to make on my 454. The block was .060 and I was going to bore it to .100 but had one cylinder that was too thin and needed a sleeve. I chose not to do it as I didn’t want to sink $$$ (new rotating assembly, etc) into a re-sleeved block. Your case is a little different as your motor already has all the new goodies. I’ve talked to some engine builders and they will tell you that having a sleeve is not a big deal at all while others will tell you that a solid block is a must foundation for any build and sleeve is simply not in their formula.

If I was me, I would find me a new solid block, machine it and reuse all your new parts from the other one. BTW, those SBC/BBC make great wine/whiskey racks for any man cave…

Sleeves are used in all high performance aluminum blocks, top fuel, etc. If it's done right you won't know the diference. That is the key. What is the cost to fix those cylinders vs. a new block and new machining. Has that block been rebuilt correctly. I'd have to take it apart and check everything anyway. Start with blue printing the parts, specifically cylinders first. It may need a block anyway.

Thanks again for all of the responses, guys!

I posted it on Craigslist, and within an hour of posting, IT'S GONE!! Maybe I didn't ask enough? I can't complain - a week ago I didn't even want a motor sitting around gathering dust. Now I have a few hundred $$$$ in my pocket for my troubles. I sold him the shortlock, heads, intake, and a chrome alternator. He also took away a T400 torque convertor I was going to set at the curb.

The ONLY reason I considered having the block sleeved was so I could put it back together and sell it as a complete engine. I called my local machine shop - $150 per sleeve. This guy can do with it as he pleases. (He said he has several 4 bolt 350 blocks and he'll just scrap this one)

I'm glad to have it gone!!

:hurray:That was easy:hurray:

The real issue is if you salvage the engine you'll need a car to put it into. Looked at like that, it'll cost you $25K plus to resleeve that block. :D

Seriously, I'd pass and (if you really need another engine) look for a post-89(?) block set up for hydraulic rollers from the factory. There's got to be a lot of cheap SBC stuff available as the LSx's take over the hot rod scene.

Mike - I was hoping that after you tire of your LS motor you'd buy it!!

Mike - I was hoping that after you tire of your LS motor you'd buy it!!

LOL, for the first time in about five years, I'm down to one motor per car/project. It's a nice feeling. My goal is to be able to give up the storage locker in another year or two. Then the sales volume will really pick up. :thumbsup:

What the h#ll Mike, I still need a car! :thumbsup:

What the h#ll Mike, I still need a car! :thumbsup:

I can fix you right up there, too. :yes:

Mike, Just sent ya a PM

The only problem with sleeving a .060 over block where the sleeves are put in it will distort the cylinders on each side of the sleeved ones causing poor ring seal.