Cripes! [Archive] - Team Camaro Tech

: Cripes!


shane_c2003
Jul 21st, 03, 02:06 PM
I finally got my 383 to start up in my car. I have no luck. it was 180 out, but after switching the wires, advance the timing a little, i got it to start. i ran it for about 5 minutes a little over 2500. and at that point, the temp got up to 220, and it has a new 160 thermostat in it. the fans are running. and then, after that 5 minutes, i had to run outside because i couldnt breathe in the garage, but after seeing smoke coming off the engine, breathing was no longer an issue. the smoke turned out being the cheap paint on the new headers. sign of relief, until i found that 1 header pipe manages to stay black, while all the others were burnt. that pipe was still hot, but not as hot as the others, i think that has to do with the valves. but then. i went to check the check engine light, and it is showing maf voltage is high. this is all in an 86 camaro, and i kept the TPI, i increased the injector size though. is getting the custom burnt computer chip the only was to get rid of that code? i would like a adjustable computer module, but i am unable to find one. anybody know a place for them? then after the garage got vented out, i went to start it again, and it ran for about 5 seconds, shut off, would not start, so in my fit of rage, i noticed a large puddle underneath the car. gasoline. the high volume pump ruptured a line, and gas is all over the place now. so i figured it was time to come in the house, where i found that our carbon monozide detector was going off, becasue the garage is connected to the house, and exhaust is everywhere. But on the bright side, i did have it running for the first time!! Tomorrow will be another day...

dnult
Jul 21st, 03, 05:42 PM
Check out the site http://www.thirdgen.org. You'll find all sorts of mind boggling information about what you're doing. A friend of mine just dropped a 383 in his 83 Camaro. We had trouble with the MAF as well. Check the MAF connector pins to make sure they are tight. They get sprung after a few years and don't make good connection. But MAF problems in general are common on those cars and can be rather difficult to troubleshoot.

As for the header pipe, what do your plugs look like?

-dnult

Eric68
Jul 22nd, 03, 03:47 AM
On the cold cylinder, I bet its just a plug wire.

shane_c2003
Jul 23rd, 03, 09:14 AM
Update: today i fixed the fuel lines and i tried to start it, it sounds like it will fire after the first 5 second of cranking, then nothing, i have tried with out touching the pedal, and i have a slight more success holding the pedal at the floor. So i treated this as a no start. first, checked fuel pressure, yes there is quite a bit of it. so on my little checklist i had fuel pressure, fire, and timing. so i checked all of the fuses, im not sure why, but they are all good. then, to check the coil, i took the one out of my truck, because i know its good, and it is sitting in there now. i put the one out of the camaro in the truck, and it starts, so its not the coil, so after checking the wiring numbers, i just took all the wires off and re did them,1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2. triple checked, they are good, so i pulled all of the plugs. every single one is all black, and shiny, but smells like gas, after sitting for a few moments, they are no longer shiny, and they are just a dull black, so that my be part of the problem, considering they were brand new a few days ago, along with the wires, rotor, and cap. So then as for timing, i dont have a remote starter that works, so i have been trying to turn the cap back and forth, and not much difference. no service engine codes are present any more. i have quit trying to start it out of fear of ring washdown and the cam not being all the way broke in. i am out of ideas guys, any help is much wanted. thanks

dnult
Jul 23rd, 03, 01:56 PM
Hard to say if sooty plugs are a rich condition or not. Could just be from all the cranking. Plugs really need to be driven hot and hard for a while prior to checking to get a good read. But it sounds like they are all dry which is good news - not wet with fuel.

But since we're talking about cold start problems, is your cold start valve enabled? Maybe it should be unplugged (or plugged). Check for vacuum leaks. Seems like those TPI systems have a hidden plug and a couple of vacuum ports tucked up under there where you can't see them. Also, if yours has a plastic air box, you might need to seal it up.

Here is something you can try. Remove the IAC motor. Then put the computer in diagnostic mode by shorting the upper right two connector terminals on the diag port. When you turn on the key, the IAC motor should extend and then fully retract. If it doesn't, figure out why. If it does, turn off the ignition, disconnect the IAC connector and reinstall the IAC. This will bump your idle up to about 1000 RPMs making it a bit easier to start.

One last thing. There are two large vacuum ports on the left side of the plenum. We hooked the PCV valve up to the wrong one and the engine idled like crap. You might just plug both ports until you get the motor running - then reconnect the PCV.

-dnult

shane_c2003
Jul 24th, 03, 09:53 AM
update:
dnult, everything you said helped out, after testing everything, i found that if i leave the IAC disconnected, it will start right up. so i had in mind that i would continue the breaking in process, and after the make-shift exhaust fell off after about 2 minutes, i decide to shut her down and make sure every thing was ok. it wasnt. the oxygen senser wire and clip and plastic around it had jsut caught fire, the headers on the driver side bank are a firey bright orange, and so i ran for the fire extinguisher, which was empty, so i used to hose. fire went out, then the heat started it again, so i put it out again. so i immediatly callede the dealership, and they said they think there isa vacuum leak of some kind because it sounds like it is running to lean only on that side. the p-side was fine. so the dealership suggested checking all of the intake runners for vacuum leaks, but i cant get the engine to even idle, at 3/4 pedal it will hold 2500 to 3000 rpms, but if i leave off at all, it will shut down. all of the gaskets on the intake are brand new, so should i bring out the permatex and high tack? or has somebody else had a similar problem? i have double checked every single vacuum line and they are all connected and good to go.the car has a new 255 lph fuel pump, and i upgraded the injectors to 30lb/hr. so in theory, i should be able to rule out not enough fuel getting there. i am leaving for the airforce on monday, so if i cant get it running by then, the dealership told me they would take it for me. but doing that, i would never have the total satisfaction of doing it myself! thanks guys for your help, once again, this is a 86 iroc with tuned port injection, on a 383. thanks in advance.

shane_c2003
Jul 25th, 03, 07:35 PM
well, today, i reached the end of my chain, i leave for the air force monday, and i dont think i can have it broke it and run it hard before i go, with that, the dealership is sending a flatbed up tomorrow night to come get my project, and they are going to finish it. with both sides of the scale, when i get back in the spring, i know i will have a car broke in and ready to go, done right, but on the other side, i will never have the satisfaction of doing it on my own...does anybody have any last minute ideas that i could try before they come get it?

shane_c2003
Sep 19th, 03, 03:54 PM
Hey ya'll, long time no see, i just got out of basic training, and am at technical school. i toook my car to the dealership, turns out my problem was the valves were to tight, and a fuel line was pinched somewhere. so maybe somebody can learn from my mistake. well time is up, see ya'll later.

a67
Sep 20th, 03, 02:00 AM
The 30#/hr injectors are the problem. Stock is 22#/hr (for 5.7L). The increase in injector size has to be compensated for in the ECM by changing the injector constant.

If you still have the 22's and they are good, put them in. At least until you get EPROM editing/burning equipment.

When you held the go-pedal WOT during cranking and it helped was because the ECM went into the clear flood mode. This greatly reduces the injector pulse width.

A first start tip that I aways do: I have the timing light setup on plug one before I start the engine. This way as soon as it starts I can get the timing close to were it should be.

This is important as it helps prevent overheating due to not enough timing. Even on an ECM equip'd engine I leave the bypass line (EST) attached and just set the timing to 20-24 degrees.

Bob.

shane_c2003
Sep 22nd, 03, 02:35 PM
a67. thanks for your help, but what i ment is that my dealership found that the valves was the problem with it not running. it now starts right up and purrs like a little kitten. well, maybe not, but it will once i get all the exhuast on! but yes the computer will be the next thing to get and adjustment to it, just so i'm sure this thing will run the way its supposed to.

shane_c2003
Dec 22nd, 05, 04:36 PM
Another update, to a really old thread! We all need an ending to the story right? Well to make it short, my project is still not running right. The problem i have come to is that it is getting way to much fuel, and not enough air. The stock plenum and runners restrit the air and with the 30# injectors it kills it. To be able to drive this thing, i need to replace the plugs every 80 miles, no joke, so i just dont drive it. My fix action... i started buying a total replacement, and going to carb. I got the computer chip for the car with TPI, but it makes it run worse, it gives in more fuel. I gave up on the TPi and now have a 650 demon sitting on my bedroom floor. I havent had time or money to install it yet, until i get back from this deployment. I have had back to back deployments from Egypt and now in pakistan helping with earthquke relief. From all this time out here i now have the funds to finish the project. Right now the set up i will have is: 650 speed demon, edlebrok airgap intake, petronik distributor, still has the 214 duration cam in it, stock worked 1.94 heads. The set up look ok? Now would be the time for a new cam or heads and torque converter if you have suggestions. It may take me a little while to respond, the proxy server i am behind will have detected this site within 8 hours, and will block it due to forums/chatrooms. Anyways, i just wanted to put this up here to give you an idea of where this has went to, and to say thanks for ll the advice i had gotten from ya'll on this site. It is greatly appriciated!
From the other side of the world,
Shane

JimM
Dec 22nd, 05, 06:13 PM
wow, 2 years keeping the world safe for the rest of us?
Kudos, dude, we appreciate it.
Your new setup should run pretty good. Sometimes efi can be a real beeetch!

ToyzRMe
Dec 22nd, 05, 09:09 PM
Just wanted to say THANKS, Shane, for your service to us here at home.

Unfortunately, I'm clueless when it comes to late model electronically controlled cars so I'm unable to help you in return.

Have a safe and Merry Christmas.

Again, THANKS from Texas!

Randy

shane_c2003
Dec 23rd, 05, 02:23 PM
Anytime guys, tonight we off loaded 75000 pounds in blankets...by hand. On the surface it may seem to the Pakistanis that we are the ones helping, but it is really you, the taxpayers giving us a way to help. They are now better prepared for winter than last year.
Now back to the cars... I think it should be a good setup, but then again, i have only 5 years on and off experience with engines. Right now it is more of compiling lists of parts, and figuring out the order of events i need to do everything. I have an overheating problem, short in the electrical system somewhere, the whole TPI to carb swap, and some moderate interior work to do, and then off to the paint shop again! I will keep ya'll posted on what happens when i return home, i do plan on taking some leave to get this project back on track.
Once again i say thanks for all the support you give, with the cars and technical expertise, and with the troops out here. We sure do apprieciate it. I will post how this all turns out when i get it closer to being finished, but then again, are they ever finished?
Thanks again
Shane

shane_c2003
Mar 4th, 06, 11:15 AM
Hey everybody,
I returned home from Pakistan, bought several parts, and completed my TPI to carb swap fairly easily. I think it took me around 20 hours total, with those little things happening that you seem to never think about. To make the long story short, it is up and running, idling good, and have a guy adjusting the carb more tomorrow. Running pretty good. Thanks for all your help in this 2 year project!
Shane

mjsmilford
Mar 4th, 06, 12:10 PM
i like stories with happy endings

Joe Harrison
Mar 4th, 06, 12:35 PM
Good that your back shane and thanks for all that your doing for all of us out there. If there is anyone that deserves a nice running Camaro, it's you my friend....Semper Fi............I was in the Marines, so that's what you get from me!!