This winter I will be pulling my 350 out of my 1969 Camaro. I was told that when I bought the car the engine is rebuilt, well that is not the case, it smokes a bit and has a tick on the HYD lifters, one of them anyway. I was going to do a 383 but that is a bit to much right now. I want to go .30 over as the 350 now is stock, hopefully use the same crank, a new cam. i will put a set of Vortec heads on it. I have a machine shop here in Cedar Rapids, and can put the motor together, but want them to put the rotating assembley in and time it. What is the round figure to have this done. Thanks, Jerod

Welcome Jerod. I see you are a new here. I too have a 69 and live in the CR area. Sorry I can't help with figures. It always seems to snowball in my case. Who in CR are you having do the work? No any Havill's in Mt. V?

Have the machine shop check the bore of the block. If it is OK, you can save the cost of boring and new pistons. Probably the best thing to do is just take the parts to the machine shop. They can give you a pretty close estimate on costs when they inspect it.

i would guess anywhere from 1200 -5000 depending on what you decide to do and cost of heads etc...
i was gonna do a simple 355 rebuild on a 350 4 bolt i had ,then bought a set of 64 cc fuelie heads then got a great deal on a scat crank,rods and forged pistons, then went with roller rockers, comp 280 magnum cam, new holley 750 for the bigger 280 magnum cam, etc... 3600 later!!!

Agreed! What Tony said.

i would guess anywhere from 1200 -5000 depending on what you decide to do and cost of heads etc...
i was gonna do a simple 355 rebuild on a 350 4 bolt i had ,then bought a set of 64 cc fuelie heads then got a great deal on a scat crank,rods and forged pistons, then went with roller rockers, comp 280 magnum cam, new holley 750 for the bigger 280 magnum cam, etc... 3600 later!!!

Vortec heads
Vortec intake
carb ?
new Head bolts from 3/8"-16 to 5/16"-18 course thread
oil pump
water pump
freeze plugs & oil plugs
gaskets: Intake,block,Heads,carb,water pump ext...
pistons and rings
camshaft
cam bearings
rockers: Stamped-roller tip, full roller
push rods
reconditioning connecting rods or replace with new I beam or H Beam rods.
rod bearings
recondition crankshaft or replace...
crank bearings
Perform necessary machine work to block. Deck,align hone,rebore,
clearance for stroker application? ext...
Coolant
Oil...
I may have missed a couple of things but you get the picture.

A read on vortec Cylinder heads. http://www.customclassictrucks.com/techarticles/0405cct_vortec_cylinder_heads_small_block_chevy/index.html

I was figuring around $1200-$2000 for the machine and other parts that might come up. I am not going to be racing the car, just want a reliable running 350 with some low to mid power, with a great sounding cam but streetable. If I can get away with using the same pistons great, just hone it and a new set of rings. A new oil pump since it will be down that far anyway. How do people like the Vortec heads, as a bolt on. Thanks, Jerod

Jerod, I would suggest calling Sperry's in Cedar Rapids and discuss your desires and create a plan with Scott there - they do great work and will check clearances, gap rings, assemble short block and degree the cam for you for $150 if you get the machine work and some parts from them - it's a great deal! I think you are looking at around $700 for the block work, then buy a rotating assembly, cam, gasket set, oil pump, and roller tipped stamped rockers. Sperry's probably has a set of heads they can sell you as well. I used them for my build and Scott / Sperry's is very good to work with on a project.

In my shop we always give a writtten estimate and thoroughly discuss the project with the customer so we are on the same page. We are about three hours north of Cedar Rapids in Rochester MN. Your guestimate is probably about right in the dollar amount.
Jim

Thanks for all the input. The car will not be raced but want it to sound intidating. I want the low to mid power, otherwise just crusing down the highway. I will call Sperry and talk to them, just wanted a figure in my head. Thanks, Jerod

That 1200 to 5k estimate is dead nuts accurate.
I play with this junk OK? Just for fun. It's all a financial loss to me and that makes it easier to handle.

Let 'em inherit some iron too.:thumbsup:

Decided to do my version of a "cheapo" 355.

I have about $452 in the short block and that is counting the block, crank, and new pistons installed on a set of my old rods that looked good and I didn't want to put cut rods in it and lose that much piston-deck squish,,,,,and vatting and boring but not rings and bearings. Nor freeze plugs or cam bearings as I do my own and don't trust anybody else to do mine.

I have about 250 in a Howards cam and lifters(sft &edm).

I have 1040 in brand new pro-filer heads which finally dragged in a week ago or so and I got sidetracked workin like a damfool and then got sidetracked again on a 55 chevy I decided to blow money on so I haven't finished de-springing them and installing them yet.

I have about 2000 in everything else
brgs, bushings, rings, gaskets, intake, op and pickup, new GB waterpump, cloyes timing set, new AMERICAN made timing cover and new pan as I rarely reuse old tin as it won't come clean enough to suit me. 1094 head gaskets, Enginetech 1 piece pan gasket, Harland Sharp 1.5 rockers, comp bottom of the line pushrods, perf rpm intake, new carter fuel pump and rod, buncha other stuff I am forgetting like a new distributor and wires and wire looms. And every engine I do I buy myself an engine building tool or 2. Forgot what this one bought but it's in that 2000. New pioneer balancer and a pretty timing pointer. New balancer bolt kit. New timing cover screws. On&on&on. Cam degree bushing was free cuz I have loads of them but they probably ain't free if you have one done at a shop nor is the cam bolt retainer I installed with the new cam bolts. New head bolts with white crap already on them. New ARP washers for under the head bolts so my new heads don't get chewed up.


This does not include VC's or carb, which I will take a set of MT's and a 4777 Holley out of my stash for this one.

I tried to stay USA as much as possible and succeeded for the most part but the pistons are coated Mexican hypers. Probably speed-pro or Mexican GM factory but they are Enginetech. The water pump is foreign but I tried to buy the AC it wasn't available for immediate shipping.

The labor is on me and I can work on it all I want for free.:)

so yeah,,,,,,1200 to 5K for a cheapo 355. Double that for a badass little m/forged unit. Maybe triple.

If the camel or double hump heads are no good then a set of Vortec heads and a new intake and a set of Hooker headers. I have an Edelbrock 750 carb that will be reused. I hope that it does not need .30 over, and use that money that is saved from not having to get new pistons on a cam, and all that stuff. Any input on gear drives, or stay away from them. A friend of mine had one on a 86 Monte Carlo SS, and sounded cool, but do not know if they have problems. Thanks, Jerod

Don't use a gear drive, that's a waste of money in your application - just a good cloyes gear and chain set. I have a 30 over 4 bolt 350 block that may clean up well without a bore if you are interested, some other parts as well if you want to try to save some money on your build.

thers' nothing wrong with gear drive i've had mine on for ten years and i race mine and everything never had a problem it's all if u like the noise or not.

Harvey, I didn't mean to imply there was anything wrong with using one, just wouldn't spend the money for one vs a chain drive in a budget minded build.

I would like a gear drive but not a loud one. What do you guys recomend. It is not going to be entirley a budget build. Just a good freshen up and good quality items, cam, lifter and push rods. I want a trouble free great sounding motor. Thanks, Jerod