hey guys... I have a question.I have hooker super comp headers on a 350. The ports on the heads are pretty much square and the ports on the headers are oval. What kind of gasket shoult I use. Right now I have square port Mr. Gasket copper gaskets but they are not sealing at all hardly. I'm planning on taking them back soon and exchanging them... what should I get???? What kind of port style and material ETC. Thanks a lot guys

Tim

I use Earls Pressure master gaskets. They are dead soft aluminum, with a foil insert around the ports. No leaks, but i also use ARP header studs.

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1968 RS/SS Camaro w/ 94 vette LT-1 and T56 six speed, Cal-Tracs, Baer 12" crossdrilled brakes 17" rims, ect....
<A HREF="http://home.earthlink.net/~speedracer68/tyler.htm" TARGET=_blank>
My 68 with LT1 and T56</A>

Teetoe,

How do you like the header studs?? Are they a hassle pulling headers in the car??? pdq67

Headers won't seal unless you can keep the bolts tight - they're too short to stretch and develop clamping force like the longer bolts on stock manifolds, so without some means of keeping them tight, they ALWAYS loosen up over time. I've always used ARP NASCAR header bolts - pre-drilled for safety wire - and safety-wired all the bolts. Takes about an hour with a safety wire spinner tool. The bolts are available from ARP with small 3/8" hex heads or 12-point, in stainless or black oxide finish. I use the small hex heads, as you can't get an open end wrench on a 12-point. Snap-On makes a great little 3/8" open-end wrench (#VS12A) that's 3/8" on both ends, one end at a 45-degree angle, the other at a 60-degree angle - you can get on any header bolt head with this little jewel, and it's STRONG. Have NEVER blown a header gasket using this method, been using it for years.

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JohnZ
'69 Z28 Fathom Green

Oh man we have the same headers! Ok here's the low down.
To install header studs on the drivers side, you need to raise the engine on that side with the header removed. Then install the studs (use a stud installer, don't "double nut" them) Then you will have to slighly dimple the tubes because the nuts are 9/16's instaed of the 7/16's they used to be. Work slow so you don't over dimple the tubes. The order on putting the nuts on is as follows:
Starting from the front of the engine on the drivers side, number each stud starting with #1. so the # 2 cyl. stud should be 1, the other side should be 2, the # 4 cyl should be 3 ect....
slide header onto studs ( with engine still rasised)and bring flange to edge of studs. Start nut 4 first, then # 2 and 6. then thread on 5, and 1 in that order. push header onto head by threading #4 until bottomed, then 2,6,5,&1. #3 should be no problem. The pass side doesn't require the lifting of the engine, and i have Vintage Air, si there is no heater box either. I love them. They got rid of all my exhaust leaks. Plus i also have that angled wrench as mentioned earlier, but Harbor Freight sells them cheaper.
Tyler

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1968 RS/SS Camaro w/ 94 vette LT-1 and T56 six speed, Cal-Tracs, Baer 12" crossdrilled brakes 17" rims, ect....
<A HREF="http://home.earthlink.net/~speedracer68/tyler.htm" TARGET=_blank>
My 68 with LT1 and T56</A>