Since I got lots of question I thought I would just make one big thread, I’m currently building a '67 327, I have the original Harmonic balancer that came with the engine, it’s a 6inch X 3/4 thick, I’m having a hard time finding a replacement.
http://i671.photobucket.com/albums/vv75/81zapper/Engine/HarmonicBalancer034.jpg
http://i671.photobucket.com/albums/vv75/81zapper/Engine/HarmonicBalancer031.jpg
http://i671.photobucket.com/albums/vv75/81zapper/Engine/HarmonicBalancer030.jpg

Also what's the best way to thread the crank, with the balancer off?
http://i671.photobucket.com/albums/vv75/81zapper/Engine/HarmonicBalancer029-1.jpg

Are you doing a complete rebuild? If so get the crank drilled when it's out is the best way I would guess by whoever is doing your machine shop work. If you are just freshening up the top end and aren't taking the crank out, make sure you replace that front seal as the balancer in the picture has a sleeve on it so it's an ovesized seal I would guess.

Are you doing a complete rebuild? If so get the crank drilled when it's out is the best way I would guess by whoever is doing your machine shop work. If you are just freshening up the top end and aren't taking the crank out, make sure you replace that front seal as the balancer in the picture has a sleeve on it so it's an ovesized seal I would guess.

I bought the engine already rebuild, i'm going to be changing the top end, I asked my machine shop if he can drill it out and he said you would have to take out the crank, which i don't want to risk nicking it or anything so he said just do it freehand but i'm kinda worried i might mess it up.

If there are still some threads left, use a bottom tap to clean them up. :yes:

Take a small punch and try to turn the piece out. Most of the the time tension is on the end of the bolt head and not on that threaded piece.

Take a small punch and try to turn the piece out. Most of the the time tension is on the end of the bolt head and not on that threaded piece.

The bolt did not break, The crank was never tapped in '67, they started to tap the cranks in 1968

Sorry, I thought it looked like a piece of the bolt. Are you sure about that date ? I thought most were tapped around '65 ? My 327 is from a '65, but it may have been tapped somewhere along in its life.

I found this info. Is it correct ?

Only the "special high performance" 327s had the front of the crank drilled and tapped.
That would mean only the 340 hp, 360 hp, 365 hp, and 375 hp Corvette engines, plus the 350 hp engine in Corvettes, Chevelles, and Novas had a drilled and tapped crank.

Every other engine from 55-66 had no hole and no bolt.

Drilling and tapping every crankshaft started in the mid 70s.

Sorry, I thought it looked like a piece of the bolt. Are you sure about that date ? I thought most were tapped around '65 ? My 327 is from a '65, but it may have been tapped somewhere along in its life.

I found this info. Is it correct ?

Only the "special high performance" 327s had the front of the crank drilled and tapped.
That would mean only the 340 hp, 360 hp, 365 hp, and 375 hp Corvette engines, plus the 350 hp engine in Corvettes, Chevelles, and Novas had a drilled and tapped crank.

Every other engine from 55-66 had no hole and no bolt.

Drilling and tapping every crankshaft started in the mid 70s.

I'm not to sure about the "special high performance engines" but my 327 was the base only made 210HP,