I just got done reading this article and I am confused as to why this build up is not a budget build? I am assuming the machine work for the new slugs, but other than that it seems like a cam swap and some work on stock iron heads. I was wondering if the same type of hp numbers could be achieved with installation of a good set of aluminum heads, new cam and not doing the piston work, any thoughts???

http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/93578/index.html

With the exception of type of cam they used.. It's pretty much what my engine is now. Granted I'm running 10.5:1 pistons instead and went with roller rockers. So go figure.

I guess I don't understand why they used the thicker composite headgaskets vs the Fel-pro, # 1094, .015" thick ones to get the CR to about 9.5 to 1 or maybe a schosh higher??

pdq67

my car is the 210 hp version, so if I changed the heads and cam to something similiar, and not change the pistons, do you think those numbers would be close? Or do I need to change the pistons to make that kind of hp?

I really hate it when they assign a "compression ratio" to pistons. They should just tell us the dome / dish / or valve relief size and let us figure it out. Confuses people because an assumption is made on chamber volume.

Pheonix, your 327-210 uses basically the same lower end as my 327-275, including the same cam. The pistons are flat tops with 4 eyebrow valve reliefs that add roughly 7 cc's to the chamber size.

The big difference between a 210 and a hi-po engine (not counting the obvious 2 bbl intake) is the heads. The 210 has 1.7" intake valves and 76cc chambers, where the 275 has 1.94 intakes and 64cc (nominal) chambers. The bigger valves give more airflow, and the smaller chambers raise the "advertised" compression from 8:1 to 10:1.

Last summer, I was running the #'s on my car to see how "original" it is, and found it had 327-210 heads. I put on some Dart's with 2.02/1.6 valves and 72cc chambers, and a .0015 shim gasket, and reaped an unbeileable power increase, across the board, from idle up. Where before, if I dumped the clutch at 5500, the motor would stall, now if I dump it at 2000, the tires burn.

This winter, I've milled the heads down to 66cc, which (still using a shim gasket) will raise my compression from 8.9:1 to 9.7:1, and put in a bit wilder cam.

I expect to have near 375 HP @ 6000 or so, 6200-6400 rpm shifts, and still a reasonable idle at 850 or so.

Paul, as far as the shim gasket's, I don't know, maybe they're just not "new tech" enough. I've used a lot of them, you don't hafta scrape the block when you pull the heads and they give you a decent quench without machining the #'s off the block. I've never had one not seal.

Personally, I think there is a bit of BS in that article. Those numbers seem pretty "inflated". I'd be amazed of a 327 w/ ported "double hump" heads and a 218 deg cam could make those kind of numbers outside of Westechs dyno room.

JIMM

Reading that, I was think about putting some new heads - AFR, Edelbrock, whatever, that would be in the range of 2.02/1.6,170 cc runners, with either the 268 (forget which brand) or 270(comp extreme I think) that have been highly recommended here. I already have the Edelbrock performer manifold and 600 cfm carb. With those changes do you think I can push the 350 to 375 hp limit.

Originally posted by John65nova:
Personally, I think there is a bit of BS in that article. Those numbers seem pretty "inflated". I'd be amazed of a 327 w/ ported "double hump" heads and a 218 deg cam could make those kind of numbers outside of Westechs dyno room. Look at the dyno pics - no accessories, electric water pump, dyno headers, controlled temperatures, real good intake air, everything you need to get more power. Put the same engine in a car, add an exhaust system, accessories, underhood running temps, etc. and you'll be seeing a more reasonable outcome.

Pheonix, you'd have about the same combo I have. Seeing as you have that nice bonus to spend (think you spent it twice in the last 2 weeks...lol)

I like the Edelbrock heads. Not as good as AFR, but don't cost as much, either. You could either go with a 70cc chamber and shim gasket, or 64cc chamber and composition gasket, bring it up near 10:1 compression.

Be sure to run your combo through a good dcr calculator before you spend any money tho.

With a street 327, it's gonna rev no matter what we do, but the small motor will need a combo that'll build low and midrange torque, too, or it won't be much fun to laz around the street in.

Also, once you've decided on the cam, head combo, You'll likely need to ditch the 600 and bump it up to either a 670 or 700. I had the 650 for a while. Great throttle response, but ran way too lean. I've found the 750 runs just right with that combo. Long tube headers and a 1" spacer make for some nice low end torque.

I had the 650 for a while. Great throttle response, but ran way too lean. Why would a properly jetted 650 cfm carb be too lean? :confused:

I have an edelbrock 1406. I had to go one step rich on the primary main, and 2 steps richer (to the richest supplied in the tuning kit) to make it run right. This was with stock cam, dart heads, and 8.9:1 compression.

I'm keeping my fingers crossed as to what it'll do with the new cam.

fyi, carb cfm hasn't too much to do with rich or lean, and a 650 should support 400hp in a 327. Heck, long ago, I ran a 650 Holley DP on a 12 sec 406.

fyi, carb cfm hasn't too much to do with rich or leanThat has always been my experience / understanding.

I think this is a neat twist on the classic L79 327. And I would love to duplicate it for my buildup...but the cam kit alone costs $675.00 at Summit. This motor could get very pricey especially if you went with aftermarket heads.

Guy's,

I've said this many times!!

The little 327 motor doesn't take all that much to run like a "scalded-dog"!! Just get her up as close to 10 to 1 CR. as yor can!!

A set of bowl blended and port dingle-berry removal, big valve double-hump heads, a 268 to a 274 hy- cam and a set of cheap Z-, -142 springs and a 600cfm, 1850 Holley or even a tuned, 750 cfm, 3310-2 carb. on a Holley 300-36 true high-rise and a set of cheap, 1.625" four tube, long headers.

Then gear and tire her right AND hold on!!

I personally like the solid lifter cams b/c the little sucker will run up to 7,000+ rpm easy!! Say an old -097 Duntov or a modern equivalent will do nicely..

Been there and know what they run like..

pdq67