What oil pan would you guys suggest for a 383? I would like 7 qt capacity, windage tray, and crank scraper. Budget is roughly $200.

So far I am looking at the Moroso # 20191 with a built-in windage tray and scraper for $178. Anyone have this pan on a stroker? If so what is crank clearance like? I think Travis said it is tough to change oil filters with this pan - esp with a tall filter.

Also looking at a Hamburger pan #HAM-1088H (in Summit) for $199. This pan supposedly has extra clearance for the crank and also has a built in scraper and windage tray.

What about getting the Moroso 20190 (same as above only without the windage tray and scraper) and getting a windage tray that mounts on the rear main studs?

Milodon stuff looks good too but I could care less about the fancy gold finish. Actually I would paint right over it.

Is there any advantage to using a windage tray that mounts to the main studs as opposed to being part of the oil pan?

Thanks.

Milodon makes a stoker pan 30908. 7qt with kick outs. I have one that is brand new and did not use. (for sale) My machinest prefered the canton 6 qt pan, no kick out, so i used that one. it has some extra baffling, a built in screen, and a treaded dip stick port. the fit on my 67 chevelle is good, very close to the crossmember though. looks to be 1/4 deeper than the milodon. both are gold finished. my block has splayed caps and required a little bridgeport work so either pan would work. with my headers it looks like a kickout pan would be a pita to change the filter. the canton will allow you to use the tallest of fillters. hope this helps Dave

Eric,
Take a look at Kevco oil pans. I think the web site is http://www.kevco.com They are real nice people to work with. I have a Milodon n the engine in my car and the Kevco for the engine on the stand. If the above website is not good let me know and I will find the right one for you.

As you have read from earlier posts I've done, I use the 20190 oil pan, comes w/out the scraper/screen. One has to use the short filter, pan is made for a stroker. Mine is painted with Imron International Orange.

I use the Z/28 windage tray, GM suggested it gives 20 bhp. The Moroso added screen in for those who don't want to spend the money on M/Brg bolts/studs and the tray from GM. Don't forget the $3.50 oil baffle fitting between the oil pump and main cap to prevent oil from climbing up the rear of the engine under acceleration.

Sorry the above link does not work. I cannot find their web site. I dug out my receipt:

Kevco Inc.
915 N. Orient St.
Fairmont, MN 56031
(507) 238-9633

Came out to $170.50 with shipping to CA. Just in case you want to look into it.

Thanks for the info.

Royce, yeah, I couldn't find any info on Kevco. Does yours have the windage tray built in or not?

That's good to know the Moroso will clear a stroker crank.

Anyone know if there is any advantage to having a separate windage tray? I am starting to think that maybe the built-in-the-pan windage trays are shorter and farther away from the crank. Maybe I'll get new studs and add a separate windage tray.

I bought a Kevco stock appearing oil pan with a melling high volume pump and pickup with correct clearance for the pan already set for something like $135 total. the pan came complete with built in crank scrapers and trap doors in the syump area to help keep the oil around the pump pickup. It fit my 408 SB with a stock crank and Scat 5.7 rods without any mods. It holds 6 quarts with the filter. So far I have no complaints and Kevin(the owner) was very easy to deal with.

Eric,
The part number for the Kevco pan I bought is 1070 ($140), pick up tube 1004 ($19.95) I bought the drag race pan with kickouts (they will not interfere like other pans). It has a windage tray and crank scraper built in along with dual trap doors. The pan is excellent quality. I took a few pictures and will try to post them. Give them a call and see if they still have their website, he makes some trick pans (dry sump and all). Click on this link and select the album with th oil pan if you want to see pictures of the Kevco pan http://community.webshots.com/user/camaroman7d

It isn't that it is tough, just a little tricky to work the filter out without dumping oil down your arm. Personally I think a regular scraper that goes between the pan and block could be fit with much tighter clearances for max oil control, but then again you have to have some oil slinging around in there to keep the cam lubed. Clearance and fit is great with this pan.

I run the Moroso 20190 and because of my headers have to run a short Wix filter. The pan seems to be getting the job done although I often wonder how much performance I left on the table by not running a windage tray.

i'm running the 20190 pan on my 406 as well. it seems to be a good pan, looks nice anyway. i like the way the kickouts are on the moroso compared to the milodon, seems they offer better oil control, imo. i also run the baffle between the main cap and oil pump, but no windage tray. i also wondered if i left any noticable power on the table from leaving it off, but i figure the one in back to prevent climbing, and a good synthetic are just about as good, for drag racing at least. i think the best bet is to go with unattached custom fit crank scraper and windage tray, that way you can get the most out of them. and also, it fit with my 400 crank, but i did have to slightly "massage" the rail at the rear counterweight, nothing major at all though.
and oh yeah, i run a short filter, and its pretty easy to change, even with my super comps right there. you kind of have to tilt it to get it out, but usually not a messy ordeal. i have not tried it, but it looks like a regular 1 quart filter would almost fit, but be a mother to get in and out

CV 1080LT (http://66.155.51.113/products/specList.aspx?brandCat=197&genCat=99)

You will want to look at the picture for the CV1080. The only difference is the killer windage tray they stuff in the LT versions. The CV1000LT picture actually shoes the tray inside......

A few guys are running this pan with the best results that I have heard of. I believe CarlC just poped one on recently as well. You might want to give him a buzz.

You also might want to search this one, this pan was discussed throughly for the first Gen platform. I believe it was during a oil pressure/oil pump thread.....I just cant remember where it is.

Its the only pan I will use in a first Gen. For $175.00 ish price tag, it is an exact copy of the $600.00 AVAID wetsump race pan.

Something to consider..........

Thanks [EDIT] Tom. I remember the thread, but like you cannot find it.

I'm thinking either:

The CV products with integral windage tray

The Moroso 20190 w/o tray and adding a Milodon Diamond stripper

The Kevco and adding the milodon diamond stripper

Possibly the Hamburger pan with integral windage tray.

All seem to be a pretty good option - I need to Get in touch with Carl C, the CV products seems to be the only one so far that has been noted to make extra power.

Anyone do any A - B - A (or even just A - B testing) testing with any of these oil pans?

Thanks again

[ 10-26-2003, 01:32 PM: Message edited by: Eric68 ]

Eric,

The pan is nice but is still sitting on the shelf of my garage. I have a lot of plans for the car during the rainy season so I won't put it on until then.

For the money the CV pan is great. I have a Milodon 5-quart circle track pan but it does not cut it on a road coarse. The CV pan is set up primarily as a road-race pan. I'm pretty ignorant when it comes to drag-race only parts so I don't want to insert my foot into my piehole by commenting on it's use on the strip.

I'll take pics if anyone is interested.

I posted some pictures on my website. Sorry for the glamourous surroundings, I have several construction projects going on.

Tom,

Do you use some type of dipstick or just the top-side bung eyeball inspection?

Carl, for some reason all the pictures on the bottom half of your web page would not load for me. Your description was thorough though and answered all my questions. I went ahead and ordered the CV pan today for $150.49. The pickup was an extra $25. Should get it Wed or Thursday.

You actually have a lot of pretty neat, innovative stuff on your web-site, thanks for sharing your ideas . . .

Weird. It pulls up on mine but Geocities is kinda funky sometimes.

Does anyone else have problems seeing the oil pan pics at the bottom?

Thanks for the compliments Eric.

Well, I'm working off a Pentium 333 with a screamin' 28kbps dial up connection . . . no DSL service around here yet.

Where did you order your pan from.

Also what number pan did you go with.

Carl, for now I am going to use the top plug.....it has a dipstick on the end of the bolt...kinda cool. But, I am going to make an addition, a Locar dip stick. I am going to machine a bolt to accept the threaded portion of the Locar end fitting and hopefully, will have a working dip stick from that.......waits to be seen.

We all need to meet on Tuesday or Wednesday night, the week of SEMA, as many of you cats are going to blow town on Thursday. Pass the word....

-EDIT-

Dude, is that a flat fendered Willys in the back ground?

Cool pan eh? Which pump and pick-up part numbers did you go with?

[ 10-27-2003, 10:58 PM: Message edited by: chicane67 ]

I ordered the CV1050LT and the "matching pickup". They had 2 in stock, mine should arrive tommorrow.

The number for CV products is 800-448-1223, I ordered from them direct.

Thanks for the info I told them your price and got the 10% off. Its going on my 383.

Cool. I didn't dicker with them on the price either BTW, I just asked what the price was and they were apparently feeling generous ;) Maybe cause I was a new customer. If the pan fits and works as good as it looks, I'll probably be buying more stuff from them anyway.

Carl - I did get your pics to load, I had to right click on each pic and select "show picture" - go figure.

Eric,

Ah, the wonders of modern technology. Go figure.

Did you order the CV1050LT? From the CV website it has a 12" sump. 9.5" is about the longest that can be used in a stock f-body chassis.

Tom,

I've already started looking into the Lokar deal. They are on the list of things to do next week. A simple bracket attached to a header or block heat shield bolt hole shoud work fine. It would be nice it the braided line was compatible with AN fittings. That would make it too easy.

The pickup is a CV1080BB. The pump is the trick Mellings high-volume.

How does Tuesday night look? I will have to head back to L.A. Wednesday night.

It's a 1962 AMC Mighty Mite. 1750lbs dry, all-aluminum, air-cooled V4, water-tite, all the cool military tricks. It's my next major project. I've been sanding down the top layer of paint to uncover all of the original markings. It did a tour in Vietnam so it has some history behind it.

BIG MISTAKE GUYS.

I accidently ordered the WRONG number - in spite of the fact Tom told me 1080LT I ordered the 1050 LT. The 1050 will not fit the Camaro Chassis --- it would hit the steering gear, the 1080 is the pan that CarlC shows in his pics.

Sorry if I steered anyone the wrong way . . .

Eric,

You posted while I was editing. Hopefully they have not shipped it yet.

Carl, is that the 'bolt on' pick up for the 10555 or the 10770 pump??

I guess we'll just have to go out everyday next week and drink beer......so we get to meet everyone..... :eek: :D :eek:

Originally posted by CarlC:
Eric,

You posted while I was editing. Hopefully they have not shipped it yet. They did ship it . . . and I had to ship it back. They were very cool about it, but the rep did say that someone named Bob had also just ordered the 1050LT pan . . . hope it wasn't UNCLEBOB

feelin' kinda dumb about now . . . especially if Bob ordered the same one I did graemlins/clonk.gif

Originally posted by chicane67:
Carl, is that the 'bolt on' pick up for the 10555 or the 10770 pump??

I guess we'll just have to go out everyday next week and drink beer......so we get to meet everyone..... :eek: :D :eek: It's supposed to be the 10555. Of course I can't find the receipt.

The pickup has a tab that will bolt to one of the 1/4" cover bolts. However, the pump has a 2-bolt flange connection at the inlet with a supplied gasket and bolt kit. It would be nice to have this connection as well. I'll have to play with it more when assembly starts. Does this sound like the pickup you have? I'll post a picture on my website to confirm.

EDIT:

Well, the 1080BB pickup sure does not look right. I'll have to call CV and confirm.

[ 10-29-2003, 05:22 PM: Message edited by: CarlC ]

Yup I got the same pick up.

I was hoping it was the 'two bolt' side type like what is on the newer Melling pumps currently available. I know that they had it on the docket to design and fab the side bolt on type, but it sounds like they havent gotten around to it yet.

If I remember correctly, isnst the newer side bolt pump pick-up have a larger tube OD/ID? Other than that of standard 0.750" OD......or is it the same, just two bolt..??

The pump inlet is 3/4" (0.740" lead-in, 0.736" step-down.)

Maybe I'm seeing something wrong. Does the tab bolt to the housing without a spacer? By eye there's does not appear to be a way to press in the pickup and have the screen reasonably horizontal without a 1"+ spacer. I really wish I could post pics here. If need be I can post on my website but won't link here.

Unfortunately, I dont have the pump and pick up in hand, so it is a little hard to picture.

But I do know that the 'screen' should be about a half inch off the bottom and parallel. I dont recall having any problems with the Melling 10550/55HV pump with this screen.

But the 1080BB pick up should be the one for the Melling 99HV/s, big block pump, which would explain the 1.0"+ difference......

:confused:

I did order the same one but its going in a 68 chev pickup maybe it will work Ill have to check it out no big deal.

The 1080BB pickup will not work with the Mellings 10555.

The 1080SB (small block) is the correct part number for use with the 10555.

The pickup is a press-in style with a tab that will bolt to the cover plate. I may modify the pickup to accept an o-ring and two-bolt flange connection.

Either way the pump and pickup are nice pieces. For the money the CV parts are hard to beat.

Originally posted by CarlC:
The 1080BB pickup will not work with the Mellings 10555.

The 1080SB (small block) is the correct part number for use with the 10555.

The pickup is a press-in style with a tab that will bolt to the cover plate. I may modify the pickup to accept an o-ring and two-bolt flange connection.

Either way the pump and pickup are nice pieces. For the money the CV parts are hard to beat. I got my CV1080LT today and with a M55c pump the 1080SB pickup fits fine. The tab goes right to the corner bolt. I did have to tweek the tab just a hair.

Yes, the pan and pickup are both nice pieces, now all I have to do is get the right oil pan gasket from my local speed shop :rolleyes: and figure out a new dipstick.

I might modify my old Lokar dipstick (the top fitting comes off the AN line) and run it down into the sump. There's no dipstick on the plug on my pan.

I also added the moroso anti-slosh baffle on mine. That's the one that goes between the pump and the rear main cap to keep oil from sloshing upwards under hard acceleration. It fit good too with only very minor trimming to clear my rear main studs.

Good idea on the baffle, I myself have used the same part.

Eric,

You may want to check out the Felpro one-piece gasket. If it performs anywhere near what it looks like then oil leads should be a thing of the past. I don't know of anyone who has used it so it may be a guinea pig experiment.

Carl, I've used the one piece Felpro gasket a few times. very nice gasket - its worth the higher price. I just got the one with the thin front seal instead of the thick front seal. It was actually my fault - although I have a 72 block which uses the thin seal, I have a 75 and later TC cover and pan which requires the thick seal.

Well, the 1080SB pickup is not correct either. The pump is confirmed by the casting number as a Mellings 10555. The outlet diameter is 3/4", but the 1080SB pickup tube is much smaller.

CV is drop shipping another pickup from the manufacturer so hopefully it will work.

Carl, did you get another one and did it fit?

i hate to revive an old post, but was really intrigued by this.

what are you guys going to do for a dipstick? can a factory one be modded to work?

im lookin into gettin the cv orkevco pan after reading this

thanks
rick

Good question. I took my existing Lokar dipstick and replaced the braided hose with a longer piece. Then I drilled out the center of a brass bushing to fit the OD of the bottom of the dipstick, screwed it into the pan, and sealed the dipstick with RTV. Looks nice and doesn't leak.

PS. Lokar doesn't use ordinary -6 line though, they use braided line that has the same ID as -6 but has a nylon or hard plastic liner so it is thinner than normal -6 braided hose. I just picked up a piece from the local hot rod shop - it was pretty cheap.

with my 20190 moroso pan i'm running a factory tube and dipstick, works just jim dandy, and adds to the whole sleeper thing :D
i checked my dipstick when i filled up the first time, since i really wasn't sure where it would read, and its darn near dead on, maybe 1/4 of a quart more at "full".
its the best way to go imo, it worked for me graemlins/thumbsup.gif

Not sure what your Moroso pan looks like, but the CV Products pan blocks off the factory dipstick hole on either side. You have to go through the threaded hole on the top of the driver's side sump (its kicked out). If you can get a factory dipstick to work there then cool, but I sure don't know how. There is also a second threaded hole for an oil temp probe in right next to the dipstick which is a nice feature IMO.

Rick,

Sorry I missed your question. After sending back two pickups CV had their supplier drop ship a third. It appears to be correct and I'll find out for sure in 2-3 weeks. CV is hard to beat for bang/buck ratio and the customer service has been great.

For the dipstick I chatted with a Lokar design guy who said that for $75 they will make whatever I want. Just a simple drawing will do. I too am still thinking along the same lines as Eric if I get a cheap streak going in me over the holidays.

eric, that would explain the dipstick issue then. on my moroso pan its got an area on both sides of the pan for the dipstick, factory style, to work with driver side or passenger side configuration.
obviously the cv pan is different, but i'm not familiar with them either. i am using a cv reinforced timing cover, and its a very nice piece, so if thats an indication of the quality of thier stuff then graemlins/thumbsup.gif

Carl, $75 is a good deal - if you want diminsions off mine just let me know. After purchasing the Lokar dipstick and buying a length of the correct braided line I probably have $65 into mine anyway.

Eric,

I'll be able to mock mine up on the engine stand with the headers attached. If the Lokar part fits based on the drawing I submit to them I'll forward it to you and Tom. The only thing that may throw a monkey wrench into the works is that different header designs my effect the routing, and therfore the length.

The CV part number for the correct pickup for the Melling super-duper pump is CV1004SB

3/4" x 8 pickup for Melling 10555 pump.