: Mallory Unilite?
Apr 28th, 00, 06:48 AM
Anyone else ever have problems with this distributor? I had one on my son's Chevelle, went out to crank it one morning a few months ago... and zip, nada, nothing! Finally had to change to a different distributor... Last week the 406 in my 68 developed an intermitant miss that I just couldn't pin down. It felt like a plug wire breaking down, but I tried new wires, plugs, checked the valve springs, carb etc... Finally dropped in an old points distributor that I had laying around, and problem solved. This distributor was only 4 months old. Not bad-mouthing the product(yet), just wondered if anyone else has had problems with this particular distributor. Has anyone dealt with Mallory before?
68 SS Camaro
73 Nova Hatchback
Apr 28th, 00, 07:34 AM
I used to run full mallory products in a drag car i had. Unilite, Hyfire IV. It seemed I had a different problem every week. I installed all MSD, billet dist, 7AL and Pro power coil. Never had another ingnition problem. Car was also faster and more consistant. I guess that could be because my wallet is alot lighter now. That was 12 years ago, I'm still running that same 7AL in one of my 67's. And in case anyone was wondering, the 7AL with the HVC pro power coil is streetable.
67 410sb 11.63 @117.6
Apr 28th, 00, 10:49 AM
The Unilite module either works or doesn't. I never heard of an an intermitant problem that was with the module. Check your ground. Mallory is has a pretty good at warranty, if you call them I would not be suprised if they send you a new module for your sons Chevelle. I used to have a Unilite in my Camaro, never had a problem. I however, would not use on today, I have seen too many people with problems. Besides there are too many newer designed systems available to use something that dates back 20+ years. Good luck.
Apr 28th, 00, 05:26 PM
I tried one in my road race car years ago. The advance weights fell apart after about 4 hours track time. It spun the distributor around when it went. They were made of pot metal. Not good for the tach cable.
The older I get, the faster I was!
Had an Unilite conversion module in my "69 and had 2 modules "fry" untill Mallory suggested a power filter between the dist and the coil; supposed to keep voltage spikes from ruining the unilite module. Sounds kinda like a surge-suppressor for computers.
So far so good. Don't know the long term results. Summit's part # for the filter:
When the $'s available, gonna replace the whole thing with a HEI. Those unilites modules start getting spendy after the first 2.
Apr 29th, 00, 08:13 AM
i have never used mallory, but when i was ordering a new ignition system from summit, the guy there said to stick with msd, unless i wanted to be replacing the module in the unilite all the time. i went with msd and have no regrets
355, SUPER T10 4 SPD
Apr 29th, 00, 12:13 PM
A good friend of mine has run a unilight in his drag car for the past 5 years with no problems. I had a unilight in my last car, I also have one for my camaro. With the unilight you must run a ballist or you WILL fry out the "eye". I believe you can run one from a mopar, it cuts the volts to 9. Not sure on the numbers I can find out. He told me what to get so it wouldn't fry out, I can check with him.
Apr 29th, 00, 12:56 PM
Stock GM resistor or resistor wire is OK with the Unilite. 1.35 (porcelain) or 1.50 (wire) ohms resistance is stock. Point actuated regulators aren't OK. Stock GM and most replacement regulators are actuated by solenoids and points. Even resisted ignition systems will over-volt if the regulator allows a surge condition.
The Wells VR175 uses solid state components (like the internal later model alternators) to regulate the charging and stop voltage surging, which causes both layer shorts in the coil and Unilite failure from over-voltages and surges.
With early systems, use the Wells number, but the best fix is to use the 78 ampere internal regulator 12SI alternator. They install on stock brackets, wire up easily, can be made one wire from the outside with one jumper wire from the large battery terminal to the 2 terminal, and will drive a stock charging light if the car has one, from the number 1 terminal on the alternator.
Apr 29th, 00, 02:54 PM
Mallory was the brand 30 years ago but forget them now. The modules blow out and your left on the side of the road with no fix possible. Go MSD and find other problems to have because ignition will not be one of them. I've got MSD on my 67 Camaro replacing a unilite and on my sons 68 Mustang--yeah I know but the kid's car is actually pretty quick and neither of the MSD's have ever blinked much less left me stranded like the Mallory's. Had one salesman tell me to buy the Mallory and keep a spare module--no thanks.
Apr 29th, 00, 08:13 PM
Hey dudes, I've got a mallory neverlite in the camaro right now. What happened was the rotor cut into the red wire inside because the wires feed into housing to high. Had they just drilled the damn hole 1/4" lower there wouldn't have been a problem. But let me tell you this, there was spark at the plugs, but not enough to start motor. It was baffling to figure that one out. So we put point dist. back in. After a while decided I could fix neverlite. I spliced red wire back together and put it back in car. I've drove it about 40 miles since and I've got real bad miss. So it's coming out again, and if it's the problem, I have a very expensive pre-oiler in my tool box.
67 SS 396,4-sp
67 RS 327,4-sp
72 RS 350/350
69 4X4 suburban 350,4-sp
73 3/4 ton 454/400