Having some trouble with my 67 RS Camaro Convertible with my new headers. I am in the process of restoring the vehicle and am finishing us assembly of the subframe, suspension and drivetrain.

I recently installed Hooker Competition Headers on my 327. I immediately noticed that the right side header outlet was very close to the floorboard. About 1/2 inch. The left side is about 2 inches away. Sighting from the rear of the car, it is quite noticeable. No exhaust system has been fitted yet. the vehicle is level with the floor, the frame is level as well and the engine is level with the frame. Motor mounts are new. Brackets are original

I called Summit, where I bought the headers and thier representative suggested that I bend the header down a bit. I gave that a try, but couldn't make much of a change. Looking at the header, it is apparent that the flange and the collector tubes are not parallel. The collector seems to be tilted up a bit. I ended up ordering a new set, returning the old ones. The new set is just the same as the old set.

Has anyone installed a set of Hooker headers and found the same thing? Any suggestions on my next move? I am concerned that I will not be able to fit and exhaust system.

It could of been an adjustment factor for torque. Jokingly from my experiences I wouldn't worry. Speed bumps are going to have them both at exqual adjustment shortly.

Check the pictures on my link and you will see that the right side on my car is what you described on yours. Type of motor mounts, motor mount brackets and frame mount type and condition have a lot to do with header fit. BUT, even with a completely restored car with all these components checked and correct, the Hookers still fit close to what you described. And to make things worse, they position the flange so the bolt hole is at it's lowest point.
Jim

Bill - Check this out and pay close attention to BillK's advice!! http://www.camaros.net/forum/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=9;t=010245

If the manufacture sent you parts and said they are compatible with your combination, heads block, and accessories why would they tell you later when it doesn't fit to modify it!! The tech you talked to should be fired! He works at Summit though not Hooker so he's really just a sales guy! If you bought an intake manifold and it didn't fit and the tech told you to mill it and drill it and to JB weld up the old holes would you do it?

Now there are some things that are out the the manufactures control that have been pointed out in both these threads. Things like proper engine mounts and frame mounts, proper body/subframe bushings, aftermarket heads with port placement different than factory, and even (and I would hope not though) new floor pans not installed properly!! If none of the above don't accept a product that doesn't fit. You are on the second set and are not the first to have the same problem. Talk to Hooker and if they can't resolve the problem look elsewhere. Plenty of other good header manufactures out there!!

I am having a similar problem with a set of Hedman headers. Everything is brand new on my resto project and the pass side header flange is almost touching the floor pan. I verified that the motor mount brackets are correct and my body mounts are new. I am instaling a new flowmaster system and can only think of one thing to do. I don't think that it is possible to bend the collector down, but I can cut it enough to easily bend it and then mig weld the cut area up. This is work but will allow me to get the proper clearences. I would hate to hear a thud every time I get on the car, as well as worry about heat cooking my floor with the possibility ocarpet fire. Good luck and please post any ideas.

Originally posted by restoman:
I am having a similar problem with a set of Hedman headers. Everything is brand new on my resto project and the pass side header flange is almost touching the floor pan. I verified that the motor mount brackets are correct and my body mounts are new. I am instaling a new flowmaster system and can only think of one thing to do. I don't think that it is possible to bend the collector down, but I can cut it enough to easily bend it and then mig weld the cut area up. This is work but will allow me to get the proper clearences. I would hate to hear a thud every time I get on the car, as well as worry about heat cooking my floor with the possibility ocarpet fire. Good luck and please post any ideas. Send them back and look elsewhere if they can't resolve the problem!!!

Not sure this is worth anything, but I don't see this with my Hooker Comp's, on my 69. I did have clearance issues with the steering box, and also I don't like the way the #1 tube is routed, right by the next cylinder's spark plug. I would love to find a set that fit better in these regards, it is really frustrating having to modify them to clear things.

Good luck.

Hey Bill, I had the exact problem as you. I bought Hooker Compeititon headers (#2451). I have a 70 Z28 with the original LT-1 350 and the drivers side fit right but the passenger side was about 1/16" away from the floor board which almost made it hit it. This also made my exhaust sit a little unparallel. My exhaust tailpipes are uneven but you can't really tell unless you know that it is like that (thank God). Luckily mine bolted up alright except for it being uneven. I had a couple people tell me to actually try and bend the headers down or to hit my floorboard with a sledge hammer. I didn't try that because I am thinking of sending them back and getting new ones and didnt want to bend them or hit the floorbaord if it was the Header that was manufactured wrong. It seems like QUITE A FEW people had this same problem The only problem is I already spent $295 to get them ceramic coated so I think I will have a hard time geting Hooker to pay for the coating, but that remains to be seen. I haven't called Hooker yet becuase I just had finals at college and have been really busy. I haven't had my car runnning yet so hopefully there is no rattle or clunk from the engine torque and causing the headers to hit the floorbaord. Let me know what you end up doing.

Ryan

Hi Bill.
I think It.s the way Hooker makes the headers, Because I have A S15 with the super comp header and I have the same problem, but the headers work great the make more torque. I would say 30 ft bls more.
RAndy, ;)

well, not that this helps you currently, but i put a set of 1 3/4 super comps on my 68, (small block, power steering), and they fit great. even across the bottom, fit perfect around steering box, slight clearancing around pitman arm. they really look perfect as far as fit once installed. (installing them was a different story, but thats not hookers fault). maybe the comps are a bit lesser quality? i would definately talk to hooker though, summit "sales" staff are useless for tech questions. and as said, if your unhappy with them, by all means, send them back. maybe manufacturers as a whole will start to get the picture. but, again, myself and several of my buddies have had good luck with super comps, so maybe they are worth looking into. good luck!

I have a friend that bought Hooker Comps for his '72 Firebird and the driver's side header was so poorly made that it wouldn't fit at all. The collector was hitting the floorboard. He needed the collector lowered at least an inch. He sent them back and got a new sety and the new set was almost as bad.

In order to bend the header tubes, you have to heat the tubes up until they are cherry red. stick a piece of exhaust pipe in the collector and pull down. It's pretty easy, but the header looks like crap afterwards. You certainly couldn't do that with a set of ceramic coated headers.

DjD is right. If the ANY part you buy doesn't fit send it back and complain. IF you buy from Summit or Jegs, be sure to send the manufacturer a message as well.

I had the same problem with Hooker headers and I bought a shorter motor mount for the passenger side and got enough room to clear the floor board but, it's tight, I called Hooker and they said that I could have the exhaust shop heat it up and adjust it. graemlins/angry.gif I told them that was BS and that for as long as they have been making these for these cars that they should have figured it out by now. He said that they are made to fit more then one vehical and they can't possibley make them to fit each car. I will never buy another set of Hooker headers again, :mad: I just wish I could say I won't ever buy another Holley again too.. It was to late for me to ship mine back other wise summit would have gotten a return to sender from me ...speedy

Sounds like we're all in the relatively same boat with Hooker headers. I took mine to the muffler shop and they put them in and did the exhaust at the same time. He didn't mention anything about the right side being too close to the floorboard and I've never checked it out.

What I don't care for is that the driver's side hangs down about an inch lower than the other, that the flange can't be rotated to give better clearance, and the routing of the #1 tube. I also burned the same spark plug wire twice in one week until I got an Accell shorty plug (#4 or #6 I think)

I didn't have these problems with the $89 Hedmans I had before plunking down for these ceramic coated Hooker comps. They look nice, and I think they work well, but I always have to remember (and remind shop mechanics) to CREEP over speed bumps.

Ozzie

Thanks for the great information, everyone. I'll give the Hooker header people a call to see what they have to say. I am kinda concerned about the floor temperatures on the right side. I also agree that it would be a shame to carve up these headers after forking over $$$ for what I thought were top quality parts.

I know what the people from Hooker are going to tell you because i went through the same thing with my 81 Z28.They are going to say that the comp headers are made for a variety of cars(same part#)and the super comps are made for a specific car.Dont listen to them.Thats BS!!!
I ordered a set of ceramic comp headers last year and when i put them on the drivers side hung down about 2" lower than the pass side.So i called Hooker and listened to the guy and ordered some super comps.They were even worse.Drivers side was about 3" lower than pass.
Well after sending three sets back i finally got a set of comp headers that fit somewhat.Drivers side hung down about 11/2" lower.
This is DEFINITELY a quality issue!If i remember right they were made or assembled in Mexico.Just another US company screwing over the American people by job loss and inferior products.
My advice would be to send them back and go with a different header manufacturer.The old saying that you get what you pay for doesn't apply to Hooker headers.IMO they suck and i will never buy them again!