I own a 68 RS with a 427. Recently, the car only starts only until I turn the key back to the run position (does not start when the key is in the start position). I replaced the ignition switch, checked the distributor connections, and verified the grounds are intack. I have not done any volt meter testing. The only mod I have done recently is installed a new Edelbrock carb.

Any suggestions?

Thanks. Doug

Does the motor crank in the start position or does it wait until the ignition is back in the run position? If the later, it may be a faulty starter solenoid that's feeding back through itself.

I own a 68 RS with a 427. Recently, the car only starts only until I turn the key back to the run position (does not start when the key is in the start position). I replaced the ignition switch, checked the distributor connections, and verified the grounds are intack. I have not done any volt meter testing. The only mod I have done recently is installed a new Edelbrock carb.

Any suggestions?

Thanks. Doug

Do you still have the wire running between the R terminal on the starter solenoid to the + side of the coil?

Does the motor crank in the start position or does it wait until the ignition is back in the run position? If the later, it may be a faulty starter solenoid that's feeding back through itself.
The engine does crank in the start position.


Do you still have the wire running between the R terminal on the starter solenoid to the + side of the coil?
I'll check this tonight. Thanks.

I've seen this before, long ago. I thought it was a 67 ignition switch quirk, but maybe not.

Scenario: Car has electronic ignition, and/or a mini starter, and the yellow wire has not been connected from the starter R terminal to the + side of the coil.

Symptom: key turned to start, engine cranks like crazy but won't fire. release key to run, ignition gets power, if the motor is still spining fast enough and all the stars align she might fire up.

Solutions: Easy one is to put the yellow wire back on. If you have electronic ignition, you can splice it into the power feed wire, it will work that way. But if your starter doesn't have an R terminal, you're stuck.

Solution2 is to keep trying ignition switches until you get one that works right. This is actually a problem internally in the ignition switch, it's not supposed to be that way, at least not in a 68 switch. 30 years ago, I had a 67 switch that did that.

Update: Yes, the wire was bad from the "R" connector on the starter to the positive connector on the coil. All is good...thanks for the advice.

Doug

Cool! Good job!