I did s few searched and pretty much know what I have to to to get as much clearance as I can get. My question is How much room did you have LEFT OVER to get it out. The reason I'm asking is I want to remove the stock pan and install a Canton pan. The Canton pan is 3/4" deeper in the front section than the stock. Turning the crank and all should it work?

http://www.cantonracingproducts.com/cgi-bin/commerce.cgi?preadd=action&key=15-244

I couldn't get a pan that had non-sloped front in mine with the engine in the car but got a Moroso-style one in. May have just been me. Also, it may have just been grabbing the wrong link but the pan you linked is for a third gen. First gen Camaros and certain Chevelles can be finicky about what pans fit the crossmember.

I couldn't get a pan that had non-sloped front in mine with the engine in the car but got a Moroso-style one in. May have just been me. Also, it may have just been grabbing the wrong link but the pan you linked is for a third gen. First gen Camaros and certain Chevelles can be finicky about what pans fit the crossmember.

Here..This is the same pan. For some reason Cantons website shows F body.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CTR-15-244/
I measured 1 inch clearance to the cross member as it sits. I'll have 1/4" once its in. Did you take your center link down also? Take the dist out? What did you do?

I had the distributor out because I was replacing the oil pump at the same time. The cap may be all you need to pull. I also knocked the center link loose from the pitman arm and idler arm and let it hang down. The pan that I couldn't get to go was not specifically for a first gen so that might've been part of the problem at the time.

When you jack up the engine, jack it up with a board under the pan kinda towards the front of the sump. It's tempting to use the bellhousing but the engine goes up at too flat of an angle like that. Basically just shroud off, motor and transmission mount bolts out, the other stuff above, and that's about it as long as the radiator hoses will give enough. I split up a few additional slivers of 2x4 to go between the engine mounts and frame mounts like shims to hold it at max height once the jack was removed.

I had the distributor out because I was replacing the oil pump at the same time. The cap may be all you need to pull. I also knocked the center link loose from the pitman arm and idler arm and let it hang down. The pan that I couldn't get to go was not specifically for a first gen so that might've been part of the problem at the time.

When you jack up the engine, jack it up with a board under the pan kinda towards the front of the sump. It's tempting to use the bellhousing but the engine goes up at too flat of an angle like that. Basically just shroud off, motor and transmission mount bolts out, the other stuff above, and that's about it as long as the radiator hoses will give enough. I split up a few additional slivers of 2x4 to go between the engine mounts and frame mounts like shims to hold it at max height once the jack was removed.

Thanks. I may have to remove the dist anyway. I have to install a new pickup. Not sure if it will have to come out or not. In the end were you able to get it out in the car? What was the part number on the Moroso?

Thanks. I may have to remove the dist anyway. I have to install a new pickup. Not sure if it will have to come out or not. In the end were you able to get it out in the car? What was the part number on the Moroso?

I think you may have clearance problems with center crank weight? Believe you have to rotate cly 5 to get this out of your way.

I think you may have clearance problems with center crank weight? Believe you have to rotate cly 5 to get this out of your way.

So I may have to do it on the center weight and the front one too?

You should rotate the crankshaft placing the timing mark at the 5 o'clock position.
If an automatic trans, remove the dust cover, adds room to pull the pan back and down.
Check fan shroud or remove fan blades.
Having oil filter off helps also.

You should rotate the crankshaft placing the timing mark at the 5 o'clock position.
If an automatic trans, remove the dust cover, adds room to pull the pan back and down.
Check fan shroud or remove fan blades.
Having oil filter off helps also.

I'll remove whatever has to go. As long as I don't have to pull it.;) The headers have to come out anyway, electric fans. And am going to do an oil change when done.

Thanks

Thanks. I may have to remove the dist anyway. I have to install a new pickup. Not sure if it will have to come out or not. In the end were you able to get it out in the car? What was the part number on the Moroso?

Yes, I got the old one out and new one in fine. The new one (on an old engine) was a seven quart Proform pan with the triangulated sump. I did have to trim part of the baffle out to get it over the pickup though. Not enough wiggle room for that. My new engine has a Milodon seven quart pan on it and I'm sure it would go in and out fine but I hope I never have to find out.

i jacked mine up on the balancer one time.. maybe that would help? remove dist and motor/tranny mount bolts of course..

I removed my pan in the car with no problem at all . I was going to install a new Canton pan. Plans changed for a moment and I'm going to install the stock pan for now and just weld the bungs on ( for turbo drains). My question is I removed the oil pickup that was just pressed on. No weld tack or anything. I'm not sure how to set the pickup now. The pickup moves up and down real easy when pushed into the pump. I would have to tack it when I'm done. How can I set it up? Is there just a pump I could install that is already setup so I don't mess up?

I'd pull the pump and get a pick up thatpresses in and bolts to one of the pump cover bolts. Just make sure the pick up is horizontal and you should be fine. You can also get a pump with a pickup that bolts on with no pressing. I wouldn't want to be trying to press / drive a pick up on a pump installed in the engine - you could damage the pump casting or rear main cap.

I'd pull the pump and get a pick up thatpresses in and bolts to one of the pump cover bolts. Just make sure the pick up is horizontal and you should be fine. You can also get a pump with a pickup that bolts on with no pressing. I wouldn't want to be trying to press / drive a pick up on a pump installed in the engine - you could damage the pump casting or rear main cap.

Maybe I'll just get another pickup and press it on. Go by his directions.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KOIhaI3eEog

i jacked mine up on the balancer one time.. maybe that would help? remove dist and motor/tranny mount bolts of course..

I did this today, only kept the tranny bolts in. No problem for a stock pan, but it was a bit tight to get out, I did turn the crank to the 5 o'clock position.

I did this today, only kept the tranny bolts in. No problem for a stock pan, but it was a bit tight to get out, I did turn the crank to the 5 o'clock position.

Thanks..I got it out with room to spare. My pickup was a little loose and now I may replace my pump with a bolt on pickup.

Pan and new pump is in. I read horror stories on this board. That was pretty easy. I really had plenty of room. Installed the 1 piece Felpro gasket. It looks like a pretty good fit. Installed it dry with the exception of a dab on all four corners.

So what did you do for the rest of the afternoon?
Hopefully, the rest went well.

;)So what did you do for the rest of the afternoon?
Hopefully, the rest went well.

Well lets see. After I put my dab of silicone on the 4 corners and pushed up the pan I forgot to put the header in first:sad:. So I had to take the pan down with the wet silicone drying:sad:. Then tried to install the header. After 10 min of finding out I have to take the oil pickup off to get the angle because the freakin header won't go in and breaking the locktite on the pickup bolts:sad: , having to clean the drying silicone off on the pan and block. I finally put the pan in.

THEN TOOK THE AFTERNOON OFF!