Check out these pics, Here is my $2500 purchase. I assuming i need to remove front end / engine then suport unibody with a jig, i been following a build in this site from a guy in florida. he provided plans for a wooden jig with wheels. I will be doing all work myself. i will be purchasing mig welder. Would you all suggest purchasing a plasma / tig welder, prices are fairly inexpensive on ebay. Any suggestions on where or how to begin. Thx Scott

Scott, before you take anything apart take pictures of it. Put fasteners in zip lock bags with a small note describing what they are so you know where they go even if you are not going to use them again you know what to buy and what it looks like.

dynacorn body!

That guy in Florida doesn't know what he's talking about. Don't follow his amateur build. Did you say wooden body cart? :eek: Lol! Sounds like a carpenter to me, not a body man. :D ;)

That's me! l:) Do yourself a favor, stay away from the wooden body cart thing. Unless you build it out of solid Teak wood with titanium hardware. :D

No seriously.... build a steel jig for your build. It wiil pay off tremendously--trust me on that. Others will certainly agree. Start by assessing each piece for condition. Make a shopping list for your panels needed. Then make a decision to see if it's worth it to you. For a convertible especially, you will need a good amount of support for the main shell to avoid twisting, etc... AND TAKE PLENTY OF PICS!!!!!

We are here to help.

and if you change your mind about building that '69 drop top, let me know. I have been looking for one for a while now. I would love a coupe and a convertible sitting side by side. :)

No guts no glory.
A little more of a challenge but very fixable. Mine was almost as bad, my floor was for sure.

Hey thx so much for the responce, i am a big big fan, i had many sleepless nites last week reading & reading ur mega build all with great documetation, ive only gotton to page 36.. This site is incredible, it gives me the ambition to say , i can do that. My first purchase will be mig welder with gas bottle. i think i can get by with 110 volt, funds are going to be an issue. Do i need a 230 volt system? Do you think for cutting puposes i need or would use a plasma cutter. ? Prices are fairly inexspensive for both
Ok i will release you with my questions, i look forward to hearing from you. Thx for metal jig frame materials suggestion. It can give me practice to weld it up. Are 1 rockers at a time a good place to start? mine look solid, but have some iffy rust areas at the corners. My car shows rust all over. all body panels and full doors will be needed. I can take some picks on weds and see what you think . Thx Scott

Wow! Thats got the rare Fred Flintstone option. Good Luck. Use the practice with the welder building that jig.

Hey thx so much for the responce, i am a big big fan, i had many sleepless nites last week reading & reading ur mega build all with great documetation, ive only gotton to page 36.. This site is incredible, it gives me the ambition to say , i can do that. My first purchase will be mig welder with gas bottle. i think i can get by with 110 volt, funds are going to be an issue. Do i need a 230 volt system? Do you think for cutting puposes i need or would use a plasma cutter. ? Prices are fairly inexspensive for both
Ok i will release you with my questions, i look forward to hearing from you. Thx for metal jig frame materials suggestion. It can give me practice to weld it up. Are 1 rockers at a time a good place to start? mine look solid, but have some iffy rust areas at the corners. My car shows rust all over. all body panels and full doors will be needed. I can take some picks on weds and see what you think . Thx Scott


Many people have done just fine using a 110 v welder, as I have. The only reason I see that you'd need a 240 v welder is if you are planning on welding really heavy gauge items like bridges, steel girders for building frames, car subframes, etc... For sheet metal and the few heavier gauge items you will encounter along the way a 110v will do just fine. Just get the strongest 110v you can get, like a 140 amp model. Miller, Lincoln, Hobart are good ones. I have a Lincoln HD3200 from Home Depot and it's awesome for what I do. I also ran a 220v line from my breaker box so I can use my Lencospot Mark II Spotwelder that I picked up for certain areas on the car. A spotweld looks more factory-like, and is easier to do in some areas. I will use plug and butt welds everywhere else. Mostly plugging.

Yes-- a plasma cutter would certainly save you time, but to me, you can get by without it and spend the money on a few more replacement panels. They add up! :yes:

Just from seeing those two pics of your car, I would say to start with the foundation and build it up from there. The rockers are a great start-- as long as your front door pillars and lower sail panel walls are in nice shape. That's the key. After the rockers, move onto the floor and frame rails, then the trunk pan and tail panel with quarters. Seems to be the common plan of attack and worked for me perfectly.

If your firewall, upper cowl and dash panel need replacing, you may want to replace those first before installing the main floor since the floor uses to rear interior edge of the firewall to sit on and weld to. It would be easier that way as long as the jig you make allows the clearance. Kevin and I posted a thread with complete materials list and plans for the bodycart/jigs that we and others have. Just make sure to read ALL THE WAY through it since we made corrections and additions along the way. Ask Tristan what I mean...:D

Good advice ^^, and don't be overwhelmed, You can't do it overnight...take your time and enjoy the process....If you need encouragement, i'll send you pics of my 67 RS convert I've just started...Its a real flintstone car!

Document, document, document. Take pictures, LOTS of them. Take pictures of the pictures that you already have taken cause its going to be years before you get to put anything back together and your going to need the pictures and notes that you took years ago so you can put it back together. Put your parts in the small brown paper lunch sacks that way you can write yourself notes.

Take measurements of stuff before you tear it apart(ie: gauging holes, length, width, height). If your going to take something out and have to put it back in later and it needs to go back in on the money, take measurements from fixed points.

holy smokes!

holy smokes!


Lol... Sometimes I just think to myself... "why didn't I just buy a 2010 2SS when they first came out instead." Lol!!!!

It will happen, just try not to get down and keep your momentum. Post pics! We will help.:beers:

Ok, I was worried about starting on my 69 Hard top - now I am not! Seriously, with the great help you will get from people on this board - if you take your time and listen it will turn out great I am sure. I bought a Hobart 140 MIG but haven't really used it for even practicing yet - I'm thinking my floor board is the first thing to do on mine but I haven't even figured out how to break the welds to the rockers etc yet either. I'll start my own thread rather than contaminate yours once I get going on it.

years of work but stay at it and don't give up i'm in my 8th year,mine before http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj246/THEROCK1_photo/PICSAV008.jpg http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj246/THEROCK1_photo/PICSAV014.jpg http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj246/THEROCK1_photo/Picture099-1.jpg and now http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj246/THEROCK1_photo/GetAttachment-1.jpg http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj246/THEROCK1_photo/GetAttachmentwww.jpg http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj246/THEROCK1_photo/60909_426336591495_644921495_5490530_4924067_n.jpg

I assume to start replacing rocker panels, 1 at a time, I will have to drill each spot weld, correct ? as well as any spot weld on any panel thats attached to the rocker panel ?

Wow you should be very proud. i hope someday that will be me, congrads.. i will post more picks soon

I assume to start replacing rocker panels, 1 at a time, I will have to drill each spot weld, correct ? as well as any spot weld on any panel thats attached to the rocker panel ?


Scott-- one rocker at a time would be the best to start with, but not necessary. Take it as slow as possible so you won't say "DOH!" or Oh $hit... and remember the old saying, "Measure twice, cut once". It will hold true through this as well.:yes: and the nice thing is that if you should make a mistake, like all of us here have before, it's okay-- it's only metal, and it can be fixed. As long as you have a welder, some skill, and some scrap metal you can use for patches, you are good to go. Just be sure to ask questions, take pics, and be safe.

Hey Todd thx for the advice. i posted a thread on here tonight about vin# . My numbers on the front driver dash are very hard to read? how many # should i have total ? Are all the vin # hidden soewhere else that can help me find them. The guy im buying from has promiced me an Indiana title, but i want the originals #'s not made up new ones.

tonight i took off front fenders and doors, so much rust. i will take some pics. my rockers dont look bad till it gets the ends then they get rusty. gosh im gonna hate to replace rocker panels, any chance of patch panel on rockers end sections? , probabley not , i assume it all or nothing ...

Hey, another first gen convertible being built in Indiana! I'm from Jasper Scott. Looks like we're only a little over an hour apart.

Advice from others looks good so far. I assume you have a decent air compressor? If so, in my opinion, I wouldn't mess with the plasma cutter. I would use a cut off wheel for whatever you would have used the plasma on, and put that money towards something else.

Other than that, it looks like you're on the right track. Take everyone's suggestions about measurements and digital pics. They don't cost anything, and can be very valuable.

Take your time and don't get discouraged. Mine took 4 years and I thought I could get it done in 2. It's still not "done", but it's drivable.

Have fun!!! Brian

Hey Todd thx for the advice. i posted a thread on here tonight about vin# . My numbers on the front driver dash are very hard to read? how many # should i have total ? Are all the vin # hidden soewhere else that can help me find them. The guy im buying from has promiced me an Indiana title, but i want the originals #'s not made up new ones.

tonight i took off front fenders and doors, so much rust. i will take some pics. my rockers dont look bad till it gets the ends then they get rusty. gosh im gonna hate to replace rocker panels, any chance of patch panel on rockers end sections? , probabley not , i assume it all or nothing ...


No problem at all. Glad to help out.

I did read that your vin # questions were definitely answered in those thread though. You may want to go back and double-check those good posts offered by others. There are four possible hidden partial vins on the car.

stamped into the transmission on the side pad
stamped into the side of the engine block
stamped into the upper cowl assembly just in front of the wiper transmission opening on the pass side
stamped into the firewall just below your blower motor opening--which you'll easily find now since the fenders are off. It is quite hard to do with them still installed so that's why you couldn't find that one...
As far as the rear of the rockers are concerned, I reproduce and carry an internal rear rocker brace support that connects and finishes off the rear ends of the inner and outer rockers. It acts as an anti-crush support for the outer rocker mainly. You can PM or email me through my profile for more info and pics and I'd be glad to help with that. I have tons of pics I can send you to know exactly where they go and should look like.

Just my advice.... before you get too deep into this project, make sure you have the title in hand, proper vin's located. You wouldn't want to find out that the car was reported stolen, or is a mis-matched botch job from a chop shop. You can never be too safe today. Not doubting your friend's integrity, but that's what I would do.

As far as rust is concerned, it's 40+ years old and is to be expected. Don't worry so much about the rust. They reproduce just about every panel on the car now, so it can be replaced. You may want to read through some deeper build threads for motivation and inspiration again. It helped me big time! Heck-- I still do it from time to time and I almost done with my metal work on my car. It'll work out...:thumbsup::beers:

Hey thx Brain , i will need lots of advise, nice to know your close by. i may need to seek out personnel advice, or drive up to check out car. im still in the tear down stage and shock and awl /OMG Good news tonight to find hidden vins #behind heater motor. now im assured to get replacment title.
So much rust in cowl firewall area.
question should i invest in 230volt mig welder or would a 110 unit do all i need?

Hello Todd, made some more progress in the tear down stage. Im seeing allot of rust in the firewall area, and i think its called the cowl (areas around wiper studs) also seeing rust near windsheild vin# areas. I think this car being a convertable was left out side in the eliments for yrs with rotted off contv top.
question
on saturday i think i need to remove interier dash and side kecker trim to see rocker boxed for metal integrity. Do i have to remove the emergency brake linkage to get to screws to remove kicker trim. The side kicker trim seams stiff , probable rusted togeteher :) .. I want to discuss with you in detail about my rocker boxes and what you have as a possibel easier repair. I need to have good access for better pictures. hope to have them posted saturday evening. i will send you a PM. thx for your help.