This would be for my L88. Alternatives? (pricey)
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SOF-209-512561/

Why ??? Oil filters (good ones like NAPA Gold) are relatively cheap insurance that your oiling system is being properly filtered. I run K&N air filters and cleaning them can be a pain so I can only imagine that cleaning a reusable oil filter would be a huge mess. Besides, what are you going to do wash the cleaned out oil down the storm drain ?

Why ??? Oil filters (good ones like NAPA Gold) are relatively cheap insurance that your oiling system is being properly filtered. I run K&N air filters and cleaning them can be a pain so I can only imagine that cleaning a reusable oil filter would be a huge mess. Besides, what are you going to do wash the cleaned out oil down the storm drain ?
Nope, no storm drain. Recycled.
I screwed up. Forgot to say it would be used to inspect for debris after drag racing. Wouldn't want to let a problem go longer than necessary.:noway:

ahhh, for post drag racing inspection then I'd agree with your use. I generally cut apart every other filter I take off our cars just cause I'm anal retentive, have a filter cutter, and it gives me something to do during my post oil change beer. In almost 30 years I've only found major debris once and it was on a motor that had wiped a cam lobe.

Thanks for that RJ. I'm headed out to Home Depot today and will buy a cheap cutter like the ones guys have suggested in a thread search.

The System 1 filters are supposed to be really nice, I know a guy that swears by them. If they made one for my application I would run one. Yeah they are expensive, but you never have to buy a new one.

Bit off subject , but that reusable filter is almost identical to the factory filter on my 1951 2 cyclinder 10hp 1000cc Jowett Bradford Van....which the engine design hasnt changed since 1912.

The jowett filter is so bloody messy and pain in the butt we use a modern disposable filter adapted to fit.

$165. Wow. That buys a heap of Purolators.

At a 45 micron rating, that thing seems like a strictly racing filter that is made to give you a slight power gain by unloading the oil pump some and for an engine that is going to be gone through often. Standard oil filters are usually rated at their first pass efficiency for 20 microns and the premium ones are rated down to the 5-10 micron range. If I were to use something like that on a street/strip car, I'd screw it on right before a race and take it off right after and replace it with a regular filter. Or just buy fifty $3 20 micron filters for racing.

$165. Wow. That buys a heap of Purolators.

At a 45 micron rating, that thing seems like a strictly racing filter that is made to give you a slight power gain by unloading the oil pump some and for an engine that is going to be gone through often. Standard oil filters are usually rated at their first pass efficiency for 20 microns and the premium ones are rated down to the 5-10 micron range. If I were to use something like that on a street/strip car, I'd screw it on right before a race and take it off right after and replace it with a regular filter. Or just buy fifty $3 20 micron filters for racing.

i would suggest staying away from purolators and fram oil filters.

i would suggest staying away from purolators and fram oil filters.


I say "Bah!" to Fram but over the past year or so the Purolator has been the only one I've found that was still made large enough to not leak around the seal on both my Dart block and a '78 350 block. Been meaning to check NAPA.

That's a new AC filter in the pic but the eight year old AC filter I took off the 350 (car sat just a bit) was the same part number as the new one but was the same diameter as the Purolator.


http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2800/4219796712_a8f07a5e33.jpg

Thanks men.
Struck out at Home Depot. Their pipe cutters are only for smaller pipes. The frame is too close to its center line to let a filter in between the jaws. Onward.

Went to the adjoining isle. Checked there for a 90° brass fitting to go from the power brakes plenum mounted flair fitting for the longer vacuum hose to the brake booster.(flair to hose barb) (that's a mouth full) No luck. Onward.

Went to the local propane distributor. Spent 45 minutes going through every fitting on the lead technicians service truck. That's where they keep the brass stuff. (they know me) No luck. Onward.

Went to the county hose and fitting store. They even sell AN stuff. Problem: Traffic jam. Everyday is a 15 minute crawl after our state built a new interchange. Typical. Then made it to the hose store. The time? 4:00pm. The owner was locking the gates. Closed. I pulled into the driveway and started crying. ;)He stopped and opened the gate and then the store. I had to wait outside while he disabled the alarm. Then we went behind the counter to the inventory and I scored what I needed. I had no cash. Never use it. The Visa modem was shut down for the night. He gave me the stuff 'on trust'. That's how it works around here. :hurray: OK, we have a customer-bench racing relationship. Oh, two fittings from the propane store were free too.

Nothing is ever simple. But I got my stuff, except the filter cutter. Next call: Summit.

And I'm a big fan of Wix filters. (they're now NAPA filters too) Never touch Fram.

Thanks for all the help men.:yes:

Fwiw, odd fittings I head for the agricultural equipment repair shop. They do custom hydraulic lines and such for all kinds of farm implements and almost always have the oddball part that is never at Home Depot, Lowe's, or Ace.

My filter cutter is the el-cheapo from Summit. Got it several years ago when they were only $20.00, looks like they have since gone up. I bought an extra oil filter mount, like what bolts to the block, sealed and bolted it to a flat plate so I can screw the filter on and have it help hold the filter in the vice while I cut it. Works great and keeps any excess oil from making a mess.

Fred, question... why would you not just send a sample of the oil to a lab for an analasis.The parts per million metal content in the oil would be the important part to watch. I would think that by the time there are metal pieces in the filter large enough to be seen with the naked eye, the engine would be toast anyway. Frank

Frank, you're right.
Must be the urge that's come over me now because of drag racing. It's the need for speed and more tools.
Can you recommend a lab?

Fred I live in Canada, we have used a couple up this way. But I do remember talking to the Amsoil techs way back when I was heavily involved with lubrication. I am sure there are others, just cannot think of any right at the moment. There is an Amsoil dealer on this site. Frank

And there's always google. Thanks for the idea Frank.

One of the most popular it seem is Blackstone Labs. They send you the kit free and only charge you the $25 when you send it back for analysis. You can set up an account online and view your reports there. Uh oh....I can see Fred turning into a bitog junkie.
http://www.blackstone-labs.com/

Canton CM Filters would be another option......

Billet Spin on filter:
http://www.cantonracingproducts.com/cgi-bin/commerce.cgi?preadd=action&key=25-442

Replacement Element:
http://www.cantonracingproducts.com/cgi-bin/commerce.cgi?preadd=action&key=26-100

The filter is available in many different lengths and thread combinations.

I just switched over to one myself this season so I can't offer much feedback yet. If you have any questions let me know and I will answer best as I can.

Fred I have a system1 on my car. I bought it for the same reason you mention. After each weekend I take it apart and look for shiny stuff. The engine builder I use for dyno purposes does not really like them. Says he has had a few motors that had preassure issues that cleared up when he put a regular spin on in its place. He uses a filter cutter. I dropped the coin for it so its mine. Before that I used a screen on the top of the filter. Worked pretty well. By the way if you run titanium valves or keepers don't let the glitter in your oil filter scare you the first time you cut one apart!:eek:

Thank men! Thinking,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,. And that's kinda hard these days.

Fwiw, I use Blackstone Labs for oil analysis on my big diesels. They are great people, fast turn around, and reasonable prices. If you do a lot of business with them they will send you 6-12 collection kits at a time and cut you a deal on the analysis charges.

Fwiw, I use Blackstone Labs for oil analysis on my big diesels. They are great people, fast turn around, and reasonable prices. If you do a lot of business with them they will send you 6-12 collection kits at a time and cut you a deal on the analysis charges.
Thanks RJ. Location? Link?