I bought a set of Competition Engineering bolt-on subframe connectors for my single-leaf 72 nova, but cant figure out where to bolt them up in the back. Any help?

Sure, they go between the front spring eye hanger and the body then usually have to be pushed tight against the floorpan using a floor jack as a third hand.

Then two holes need to be drilled in the rear of the subframes so the fronts can be bolted down. The fronts also go around the rear subframe bushings so it will need to be dropped on each side, one side at a time!!!

You then install the inner spacers that keep the subframe ends from calapsing(Sp?) when you tighten the two bolts on each one really tight..

Hope this helps and I gotta give Cornholio the credit for the use of the floor jack idea!!!

(I love that name!!!!!!!)...

Please realise that you MAY have to use a cheap, 4.5" angle grinder to grind the three bolt heads off each front spring hanger if they twist the "clip-nuts" in half. You can buy better aftermarket clip-nuts to go back with...

This is how my Jegs ones went on... Good luck AND be real carefull and throw your tires under your car as a crib so it can't fall totally down and MAYBE get you!!! pdq67

I installed the Competition Engineering set in my 69 Camaro. pdq hit it on the head. It can be a juggling act to get them in. Unless the front spring perch bolts and clip nuts have been replaced fairly recently, you will have to cut them off. After you get them in place, with the rear bolted between the floor pan and the spring perch, and the subframe bushing snugged up, put the car on the ground before you drill the holes in the side of your subframe. The car needs to settle before you drill these holes. If the car is twisted even a little bit, drilling these holes and bolting the connectors in will keep that twist in there. You also want to make sure that the surface that the car is sitting on is level. If your shop floor is uneven (slanted for drainage) you could also wind up putting a twist in the car when you drill and bolt the front of the connector in. Good Luck.

Geese, you go to all that work for "bolt it" heck you may as get weld ins.

Correct, but I don't have either a welder or a torch so have to fasten stuff together the hard way... pdq67

I hear you on not having welder or torch. I went to a local chassis builder and had him weld in my bolt ons. He only charged me 20.00. You can't be to careful here especialy if you are going to put slicks on the car but if your only going to run on street tires I wouldn't worry. I pull the wheels on my 67 and I only have the frame ties. No cage. The goal here is still be able to roll the windows up and down, lol.

Guido

My local chassis builder charged me $180 to weld in the SFCs. He did a lot of work to insure the car was level and he TIG welded both front and rear.

Also, after you put the SFCs, there is very little room to run a driveshaft safety loop, especially with an X pipe. I had to have a loop fabricated.