I have a high performance 383 in my 69 Camaro. How hot should the engine run. Today when I drove it across town it was running about 210 degrees. Is that too hot. It has a cheap plastic fan and no shroud. dont I need something better? Thanks for any info

You definately need a fan shroud and better fan, either a clutch fan or good flex fan. What temperature thermostat do you have, is your radiator cap in good condition? Does your car run hot on the highway? If it does you might need to upgrade your radiator too, if it only runs hot around town then look at ways to pull more air through it.

Steve R.

210 doesn't have to be too hot. While pure water at no pressure boils at 212, 50/50 antifreeze at 15 psi won't boil till 260 degrees! As long as the temp is stable, and your cap is good, you're OK. If it keeps getting hotter and hotter when idling stopped, or won't cool when moving, then worry.

Thanks I just dont want it to over heat. Do you know of a good electric fan set up for a reasonable price.

Duel electric fans start at about 220.00,If you could fiqure out a way to mount two v.w. rabbit fans they would work great,you can get them at a u-pull it for 15.00

I definitly would not use a flex fan. They are cool looking but thats about it. They flatten out more and more the higher you rev the engine.

Contact a local junk yard or f-body shop and see about a set of fans from a 4th gen. They have dual 11 (12?) inch fans and pull a lot of air. I bought a used setup with two fans and the shroud for $100.00.

Mark
1992 Firebird 355/Six Speed
1991 RS 350 / Blown (As in Broke)
1987 Toyota Pickup 383 / 500 + HP

had a problem with overheating, got a new radiator and still overheated, got the shroud and no more problems.( get the shroud, cheap,no wires to run)

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My68Camaro (http://hometown.aol.com/Dougs68Camaro/index.html)
Doug G.
68 Camaro
406 ci.

[This message has been edited by DOUG G (edited 08-15-2000).]

Look, stock setups work. They worked back then, they work now. A clutch is nice, but run a 7 blade steel OEM fan and a shroud. Shrouds are very important. The fan should be pretty close to the rad, maybe 1.5" to no more than 2" away, tucked up in the shroud. You might need a 1" or 2" spacer to get this set right.

many of our older cars don;t have an electrical system beefy enough to run these fans. They are not neccessary.

7 blade fan, shroud, a good RobertShaw performance themostat should do ya. total outlay will be less than $50 if you find a fan and shroud at a yard.

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Gene Chaas
67 Chevelle SS 427/L88 (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/chaas00.jpg)

[This message has been edited by 427TRI (edited 08-16-2000).]

I read something and know I'm wondering if
someone knows something more than I know.

My 69 camaro with 468 BB, gets hotter and
hotter at idle. If I can get moving I can
get the engine to cool down. I usually run
around town at about 200 degrees and if I go stop and go in morning or 5:00pm traffic I'll heat up to 230 degrees in no time at
long stop lights. Then I'll get going and I can get it back to 210, 215 or so. This all in 104 degrees in the Dallas, TX HEAT!

Yes, this is my 500+ horsepower daily driver for now.
So, is it bad or normal for my car to heat up so quickly at stops?
Thanks.

Its not normal. It simply means that the fan is not pulling enough air through the radiator or collant flow is too slow. I got real lucky with mine, in fact the fella that had my motor in a 68 Camaro is utterly surprised. His ran hot, I have to run a 195 to keep it hot.

With a 4 core and shroud he couldn;t keep things cool enough. In your case, assuming you have a clean radiator, shroud, good fan, you might be looking at an electric. His runs off a thermostat set at 210.

Maybe its his auto tranny and my manual. Donnow.

This is why I know these fans tax the system. He had to go to a one wire alt big output deal to keep everything copasetic electrically.

Now, before you go to all that trouble, two items you might consider. Ever notice that the back of your water pump comes off? You can buy a cheap kit that "boxes" in your impeller giving a heckuva lot more flow. The only trouble is I can;t refer to where to get one. Most of the "trick" water pumps have this impeller. Secondly, all thermostats are not created equal. Use a Robert Shaw performance type ( also sold by Mr. Gasket). The el cheapo fix is to pull your thermostat, clamp it in a vise, and drill two holes in the top. this will provide collant flow all the time, but hey, in TX you don;t have much of a problem warming it up.

I think the impeller deal will help alot and keep your cruising temp closer to your idling temp. Some differential is normal, but indicates a lack of airflow, or coolant flow, or both.

EDIT: Oh and BondoBuggy, cheap plastic fans can go airborn. Get rid of that POS and get a real steel fan. I rev my 500+hp 427 up to hi R's all the time. The last thing I;d want to see is a goddamn fan blade rip through my freshly painted hood, or worse, through my ugly puss when I'm checking my total timing. http://www.camaros.net/forum/eek.gif that'll make ya a believer quick! I should have been more adamant about this is my prior post. DONT RUN CHEAP CRAP FANS whether you rev to 7000 or 5000. STEEL ONLY. The last thing you want is a fan unassing on ya.

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Gene C.
67 Chevelle SS 427/L88 (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/chaas00.jpg)



[This message has been edited by 427TRI (edited 08-17-2000).]