Im not a suspension guy (yet) but Im learning....got an alignment two months ago and it seemed good to go...I changed the body mount bushings (sub frame bushings) and it wasnt steering to straight after that...I got under it today and had a peek cuz Im gonna put new a arms and springs in the front..but I notice that the ball joints had some nuts missing and it seemed to be popping out a lil bit...what do you guys see?...

I can't really tell, but it looks like the rubber boot with retaining plate was put on the ball joint and all was installed from the top. The ball joint installs from the top like you've got it but the retainer for the boot goes on from the bottom. If it is put between the ball joint and control arm it would keep the ball joint from positioning correctly so it might shift around.

I'd think you'd want to fix that ASAP. Both sides if that is how the other side is, too.

SEAN .DITTO on STIENER BUT THOSE BOLTS ARE ALSO TOO LONG YOU SHOULD HAVE ABOUT 3TREADS STICKING OUT THE BOTTOM AFTER YOUR TIGHT ALEX

I'd think you'd want to fix that ASAP. Both sides if that is how the other side is, too.
ya I do...not sure how tho...do I have to pull the a arm out?

These components not just stop tyres wearing, they make the car safe to drive...or put another way, stop you dieing

Everything the guys above have said is spot on...dont even think about driving till fixed.

ya I do...not sure how tho...do I have to pull the a arm out?


No, the top is easy. You do have to knock the spindle loose from the upper ball joint though. If you do each side separately it isn't bad.

Put the car up on jack stands as high as you can get it.
Remove the lower bolts from the front shock or just remove the whole shock.
Wrap a chain or a tie down strap around the coil spring and frame or crossmember.
Put a floor jack under the lower arm just enough to start compressing the coil spring.
Remove the cotter pin and castle nut from the upper ball joint.
Slowly lower the jack and see if the spindle pulls free on its own.
If it doesn't, lift the jack so that it is almost touching the lower control arm but not compressing the spring any.
Hit the lower arm with a dead blow hammer, or use a pickle fork to separate the spindle from the upper arm.
Slowly lower the jack just enough so the spindle releases from the ball joint stud.
Remove the ball joint.
Install the new ball joint and bolts from the top and the retainer plate and rubber boot from the bottom, then install the nuts. If you hold the boot under the arm while you drop the ball joint in you don't have to lower the arm to clear the ball joint stud.
Jack the lower arm back up to get the spindle and ball joint back together.
Reinstall the castle nut and torque to spec, reinstall the cotter pin.

That's a hack job. Those holes look like the original ball joint rivets were drilled out.

No, the top is easy. You do have to knock the spindle loose from the upper ball joint though. If you do each side separately it isn't bad.

Put the car up on jack stands as high as you can get it.
Remove the lower bolts from the front shock or just remove the whole shock.
Wrap a chain or a tie down strap around the coil spring and frame or crossmember.
Put a floor jack under the lower arm just enough to start compressing the coil spring.
Remove the cotter pin and castle nut from the upper ball joint.
Slowly lower the jack and see if the spindle pulls free on its own.
If it doesn't, lift the jack so that it is almost touching the lower control arm but not compressing the spring any.
Hit the lower arm with a dead blow hammer, or use a pickle fork to separate the spindle from the upper arm.
Slowly lower the jack just enough so the spindle releases from the ball joint stud.
Remove the ball joint.
Install the new ball joint and bolts from the top and the retainer plate and rubber boot from the bottom, then install the nuts. If you hold the boot under the arm while you drop the ball joint in you don't have to lower the arm to clear the ball joint stud.
Jack the lower arm back up to get the spindle and ball joint back together.
Reinstall the castle nut and torque to spec, reinstall the cotter pin.
AWESOME!!!....thanks for the in depth reply....just what I was lookin for/needed!! Im gonna get on it tomorrow morning...I need the practice anyways....then when I get the new a arms it wont be a big deal to replace em..


That's a hack job. Those holes look like the original ball joint rivets were drilled out. ya there are some def. hack jobs on the car along with some mickey mouse $h!t as well....

any idea if hotchkis a arms come with ball joints?

Was there a key in the nut??? Carter key? I saw the same bufoonery once, as same as above but no carter key in the nut....
bufoonery- foolish or playful behavior or practice, an unsafe act. just in case someone wanted to know...

here are more pics...just in case....

Looks like the SFB that installed them put the boot/retainer in from the top and then installed the hardware and spindle :eek:
The boot should fit tight to the top of the spindle to keep cr_p out.
It's just plain wrong anyway you look at it.

I would replace the upper ball joints - they aren't expensive.
And then reinstall everything correctly.

any idea if hotchkis a arms come with ball joints?

Yes they do, i just bought a set of upper and lowers. Most just buy the upper A arm and change the bushings out on the original lower A arm. I'm told there is not alot of benefit to spending the extra money for the lowers....but i figured while i was redoing the whole front i might as well do it all.

No, the top is easy. You do have to knock the spindle loose from the upper ball joint though. If you do each side separately it isn't bad.

Put the car up on jack stands as high as you can get it.
Remove the lower bolts from the front shock or just remove the whole shock.
Wrap a chain or a tie down strap around the coil spring and frame or crossmember.
Put a floor jack under the lower arm just enough to start compressing the coil spring.
Remove the cotter pin and castle nut from the upper ball joint.
Slowly lower the jack and see if the spindle pulls free on its own.
If it doesn't, lift the jack so that it is almost touching the lower control arm but not compressing the spring any.
Hit the lower arm with a dead blow hammer, or use a pickle fork to separate the spindle from the upper arm.
Slowly lower the jack just enough so the spindle releases from the ball joint stud.
Remove the ball joint.
Install the new ball joint and bolts from the top and the retainer plate and rubber boot from the bottom, then install the nuts. If you hold the boot under the arm while you drop the ball joint in you don't have to lower the arm to clear the ball joint stud.
Jack the lower arm back up to get the spindle and ball joint back together.
Reinstall the castle nut and torque to spec, reinstall the cotter pin.
There are plenty of extra steps in that if you are just replacing upper ball joints.
That's a hack job. Those holes look like the original ball joint rivets were drilled out.
Installation instructions from Moog ball joints of twenty years back wanted the holes (and rivets) drilled out. Not sure if the same applies today.

Jeff

If memory serves me....the bolts are inserted from the bottom and the nuts on top??

Agreed, those were installed by a hack, replace them both, look at the lowers while you are there.

If your planning to replace the arms, now might be the time. Any arm you get should come with ball joints.

But to expand on steiners instructions.
If the ball joint doesn't want to separate, try putting a 2x4 or something between the upper arm and frame, this will hold the upper arm higher and compress the spring further which puts more force into separating the upper ball joint.
Oh, and leave the nut on the ball joint, just a back it off so there are a few threads of space between the nut and spindle. That way when it breaks loose, everything is still attached and doesn't fly apart.

My God that's scary. Here's a shot from the Moog install sheet.
If you need a zoomable photo I'll email it to you.
Al

http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u109/allanjs/Camaro-67/P1001941.jpg

.

anybody know if it would be possible to re use the ball joints that I already have for the upper control arm?...

With the boots looking like that, they've probably picked up some crud. Plus if you wind up finding that you need a new piece (screw, nut, boot, etc.) about the only way you can get another is by getting a new ball joint. New ones run anywhere from $9 for a "service replacement" to a little over $20 for Moog or AC. I'd get new ones.

These are an option also:
http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=184982

With the boots looking like that, they've probably picked up some crud. Plus if you wind up finding that you need a new piece (screw, nut, boot, etc.) about the only way you can get another is by getting a new ball joint. New ones run anywhere from $9 for a "service replacement" to a little over $20 for Moog or AC. I'd get new ones.

These are an option also:
http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=184982
cool thanks steiner!!...I will just get new ones...