Hello everybody,My 67 rs/ss daily driver has a basically stock 350 with the exception of an aluminum intake,cam,and a set of headers.it runs good but not what id call a strong car.it also has a muncie m-20 with a 3:73 12 bolt.My question is,what would be my best bet to up the horsepower on this engine while not messing with the shortblock?im thinking a set of performance heads would be the way to go but which heads would youall suggest?any and all info appreciated and needed http://www.camaros.net/forum/smile.gifJust put on a set of CalTracs yesterday and they made a huge difference on how well the car hooks up but with the newfound traction the current engine feels kinda weak. thanks,Joe

definetly heads, go for something like Trick flow 195's, you'll love them. Heads are where the power is!

Ditto that. Trick Flow 23* or Canfield aluminum seem to be the best bang for your buck heads. Easily get a car with even a mild cam into the 350-375HP range.

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79' Z28 4-spd- built 355, TRW 10:1 forged flat tops, WP SportsmanII heads, Crane Energizer 230/230 duration .480"/.480" lift, Edelbrock Victor Jr., Holley 750cfm, Dynomax headers, dual 3" flowmasters :) 3.73 Posi 10-bolt

Thanks for the fast replys,ive actually been wanting a set of good heads for a while now,think im gonna go with the trickflow 23degree heads from summitt,any tips on which combustion chamber size and valve spring size to go with?i also noticed some are about $100.00 bucks cheaper than the ones that are cnc,help me pick out a set http://www.camaros.net/forum/smile.gifid like to get a pair thatll swap over to a 383 or something like that one of these days if i decide to go that route http://www.camaros.net/forum/smile.gif. thanks again,Joe

the CNC is unnessary, you'll be more then happy with some 64cc chambers. pick the spring size you need (they can help you decide if it's close to the next size)
The one thing is you'll need a special size pushrod, they'll tell you what size you need.
Dont worry this only adds about $50 to the overall cost, and you'll need them anyways.
Also, this is the time to buy a nice set of roller rockers if you feel the need. (harland sharps are too wide though, so something like gold race or comp pro magnums are nice, but pricey)
make sure you get some gaskets (fel pro comes to mind) with COPPER o-rings, not steel.
Sorry to overwhelm you if this is a lot of info.

[This message has been edited by CamaroNOTcamero (edited 03-16-2002).]

I run the 64cc Trick Flow 23 degree heads on my 383. In order to keep the compression ratio down to 10.3:1 I used a KB 12cc D-dish piston with the 64cc chamber heads. This might be the best bet for you because you will still have decent compression with your 350.

Trick Flow also makes this head with 72cc chambers which would work good in a 383 with a flat top piston, but compression would probably be a bit lower while they're on your 350.

It all works out the same with either head as long as you pick the right piston when you build a new motor.

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68 Camaro, 383 small block with TH350 trans. 11.98's at 111mph and never trailered.

I thought the 23* heads used standard length pushrods http://www.camaros.net/forum/confused.gif

I thought it was the Twisted Wedge G2 heads that had the canted intake valve, requiring custom pushrod length.

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79' Z28 4-spd- built 355, TRW 10:1 forged flat tops, WP SportsmanII heads, Crane Energizer 230/230 duration .480"/.480" lift, Edelbrock Victor Jr., Holley 750cfm, Dynomax headers, dual 3" flowmasters :) 3.73 Posi 10-bolt

not abosuletly sure, but i think they require .100" bigger

Trick Flow 23* heads (195cc intake runner) DO NOT require .100" longer pushrods - they use standard length. I have these heads and I use std pushrods and the valve geometry IS correct.

The Twisted Wedge heads ARE NOT canted valve heads. The intake and exhaust valve angles are rotated slightly away from the intake, but they are not canted (canted - valves are angled away from each other, the stems form a "V"). The twisted wedge heads MAY require .100" longer pushrods. Talk to 67RS502 (Rafael) to find out for sure - he has a set of the Twisted wedge heads and knows them inside and out.

The only true canted valve heads that exist for a small block Chevy (other maybe some vintage experimental stuff) are the SB2.2 heads. These are High Dollar NASCAR pieces and require extensive custom pieces to make them work. These heads are not only canted valve heads but the intake and exhaust ports are reversed on cylinders 1, 2, 7, and 8 so they require special cams, special intakes, special headers, special valve covers - even the head bolt lengths are different. Fascinating stuff - sorry to ramble.

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68 Camaro, 383 small block with TH350 trans. 11.98's at 111mph and never trailered.

thanks eric, i'm buying trick flow myself, and i'm very sceptical of what some of the people at summit have to say about things.

BTW trick flow is discontinuing the twisted wedge heads.

Not to rain on anyone's parade but this is an example of why it might be best to let those who have actually used the parts in question give answers as to what's needed to make said parts work. I'd be a little upset here if I purchased the long pushrods and found out later that I didn't need to spend the dough.

I guess this also suggests that you contact a particular company direct first, like Trick Flow in this case, before ordering any critical and/or expensive parts.

My intent is not to offend anyone!

This is just my opinion.

Rod

oh, please, just let me ask the questions! i said to double check, am i wrong in bringing this up, i'd sure as hell be pretty mad if i bought rods that we're too short, becuase no one said a word.

Like I said, no offense meant! So don't get your bun all twisted in a knot!

Rod



[This message has been edited by rmcamaro (edited 03-16-2002).]

lemme send you an e-mail, so we dont keep this on the forum.

[This message has been edited by CamaroNOTcamero (edited 03-17-2002).]

Don't believe everything that people tell you. If you are changing to a an aftermarket head get a pushrod checker and use it. I have found that there are no hard and fast rules about length. Some combos require really strange pushrod lengths to work right. I have had stockers with Chev heads that needed .100 long or they just pounded the studs to death. My G2s needed .100 long on the intake only.

amen, oger, exactly what i was thinking. never take someones advice on a "special" part, even if they've experienced problems w/ a particular part. there are a lot of variables to consider.(head/block milling,etc.) the only way to know for sure is check it yourself. checking pushrods are cheap and easy to use, as opposed to replacing valvetrain parts. http://www.camaros.net/forum/smile.gif

good idea, thats what i'll do.

If you haven't already Change to a high energy ignition (like a mallory comp 9000 with promaster coil/HyFIRE IV or an MSD of some kind), some good 9 mm wires and a quality plug with a healthy gap.
Of course heads are gonna up the HP the most. Substantially HP gains are to be found in the ignition. Also with your semi stock setup a good 650 DOUBLE PUMPER or Edelbrock carb correcly tuned could help alot.A good free flowing dual exhaust ? ? Just the basics I know but sometimes get overlooked! !
When it comes to horsepower we all know you squeeze ever little bit you can here and there and when you're done it all adds up ! ! Good luck

69 RS (under construction)
96 LT4 corvette (Pushing 400 HP, HIGH 12's)
With out opening the motor.