I live in a condo in downtown Miami. Here is the view:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v654/killmrryan/IMG_20110116_152540.jpg



I am fortunate enough to have a 1968 Camaro. I purchased the camaro for $2000 in the summer of 2001, when I was in college. It had a blown engine and a powerglide transmission. The upholstery was shot. It had a nice krylon paint job.

I put in a 383 and a TH 350 a couple years back. Also got the car painted. It was equipped with the pro-topline heads, and a 222/232 custom ground cam with .447 lift. I ran it with a rebuild holley carb on an air-gap intake. It had ceramic coated headers and a flow master exahust. I installed the Mark 8 fan and an aluminum 4 core radiator. The car never was really something I could drive every day. The car would stall on hard braking, backfire, stall at idle, and otherwise drive like crap. I'd put a timing light to get it to run well and set the idle speed, and then drive it out for a weekend, but then next time I'd drive it the weather or humidity would be different and it would drive like crap again.

Here is the car as it sits today:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v654/killmrryan/IMG_20110115_142316.jpg


As you can imagine, you can't exactly work on a Camaro in downtown Miami. So the car is located in the warehouse district waaaaay down south, where I can get a smallish warehouse for very, very cheap. Each weekend I drive about a half hour to get to the car where I work on it. I've become sick of having such a fun car but having it be so tempermental. I understand I could proobably tune it and put on a choke and fiddle with it to get it running perfectly, but let's face it: carbs do not even compare with EFI for drivability. I wanted the car to be like my 99 trans am. Turn the key, go. Change oil every 3000 miles and that's about it. Furthermore, the old technology, including different valve angles and hydraulic rollers makes the modern GM V8 pretty much the best engine out there that will pretty much bolt up to a 68 camaro.

So a few weeks ago I bought this:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v654/killmrryan/IMG_20110122_113414.jpg

It is an Lq4 6.0L truck engine from a 2006 Chevrolet Silverado. You can get these shortblocks for $800. This one was $1500 as it came with all accessories, ECU, and harness. I've shipped the ecu to Brenden at lt1swap.com, who is programming it for me. He charges only $75.

Here is the old engine:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v654/killmrryan/IMG_20110122_124125.jpg

Here is me taking the old engine out:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v654/killmrryan/IMG_20110123_082152.jpg

The engine bay needs to be cleaned up:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v654/killmrryan/IMG_20110123_085707.jpg


I've decided I am going to purchase the following items:
Ls3 heads for $660. (http://www.shopfbparts.com/servlet/Detail?no=493)
Dynatech conversion headers for $400 (http://www.jegs.com/i/Dynatech/329/11591140025C/10002/-1)
An autokraft oil pan for clearing the 68 for $400. (http://www.autokraft.org/products/)
I already got an LS3 intake from a 2010 Camaro with the stock 42lb injectors from ebay for $300.


Patrick G over at LS1tech.com offers a service where he will design a camshaft for you for $25. With the LS3/L92 style heads (same thing) and the LS3 intake, Patcik designed a streetable cam that made a dyno proven 460rwhp/440 ft.lbs. of torque, the cam will total $400.

$1500 engine.
$400 cam.
$400 oil pan.
$300 intake.
$660 heads.
$75 programming.
$200 TB
______________
$3500 or so for an engine that will put down at least 400 rwhp and can be driven every day.

I'm using the upgraded spectra tank: $400
The upgraded walbro pump: $200
The 99 vette regulator: $50
and telfon fuel lines with the fittings were about $100.

So I figure $750 for the fueling system.

Transmission will be a $4l80e, figure about $1000 for rebuilt one from EBAY with a stock converter (I don't care about the weight of the converter with the HP I'll make).
And I figure around $300 for the driveshaft work.

Factor in a $3-400 bucks for the extras (mount plates, gaskets) and I think I can do this swap for around six grand. Not bad for an over-driven 400rwhp street car that will run on pump gas.

Nice ride and nice view. Alot can be said for changing to an LS engine, as you say, drivabilty and the stupid power made from an LS. I wish you Godspeed in the conversion.

My suggestion is to keep an album for pictures and a list of the items bought for the conversion so if you need parts later, you can refer back to the list.

That's impressive.... both the view from your apartment and the transformation on your car.

Great thread so far, Ryan. I'm looking forward to following it.
We're doing an LQ4 swap into my buddy's '57 now so after that learning curve is conquered there could be an LS in my old school Camaro one day.

Nice. I am just starting to collect my parts for the 6 litre swap. Your prices are exactly what I was looking at except I think an aftermarket harness. I have the stock harness so maybe that will change. I also am using the 4L80 that I already have. Looks like 2K for a performance rebuild and converter. Now if my 406 would sell...I can pull that one out and get started.

I am told that the stock 4l80e will handle 500 ft/lbs of torque. I think I'll be putting that to the test! If it blows up, THEN I'll have a performance rebuild. Why waste 2k?
I just got a bunch of new parts in and I want to take pictures, but my camera phone broke and is in the shop. Jack I highly recommend you check out the LS3 heads/intake combo. You can make 400+ streetable rwhp without blinking an eye. I love these engines.
Also, Brendan from lt1swap has finished my ECM and will be shipping it shortly. Now I'm looking for a tranny and the swap mounts. I think that, aside from gaskets, hoses, and little things, that those will be the last of my big purchases.

I got a few things in the mail this week.

Edelbrock 90mm TB:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v654/killmrryan/IMG_20110210_201507.jpg

An LS3 intake, complete with injectors and rails:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v654/killmrryan/IMG_20110210_201523.jpg

LS3 HEADS!!!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v654/killmrryan/IMG_20110210_201633.jpg

I love the beehive springs:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v654/killmrryan/IMG_20110210_201655.jpg

Big valves, 2.165. And you thought 2.02s were big!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v654/killmrryan/IMG_20110210_201740.jpg

260 cc intake runners. Unlike Gen I SBC heads, you can still have a great idle and great street manners with big intake ports:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v654/killmrryan/IMG_20110210_201807.jpg

My god these heads are beautiful.

Don't forget about headers. Also make sure the headers and mounts will work together and clear your steering. Headman makes a matched set. Will the mounts give enough clearance for the autokraft pan? I would bet the pan would work with anything. Are you stabbing the cam in yourself? Is the 4l80 the same dimensions as the 4l60 or will it require tunnel surgery or perhaps just a slight massage with a BFH? I ask because I just purchased a C6 LS2. I have some suspension work to do so I think I'll wait on heads but if the cam is easy to install I may have to do that now. Keep the photos coming.

It should be a good build. I made 363, 392 with my 98. Mods were ported maf, tb, ls6 intake, hooker LT's, off road y. SLP lid box, free mods, and a tune. I was really shocked at how much power you can get out of just basic mods.

Yes I will be putting in the cam myself. The cam will be a custom cam made per Patrick Guerra over at ls1tech. The headers will be dynatech. There seem to be three types of mounting plates, 1" forward, 1" back, and stock. I am getting one that will allow you to adjust the mounting plates between all three. I expect this build to make over 400rwhp, and to still be drivable every day. I've read that the 4l80e WILL fit without any tunnel mods. I can only work on the car one day out of the week so it will take a while, but hopefully not too long. I'm hoping to have the engine and tranny in within three weeks.

I've subscribed.

So far, nothing new with the actual car, but a lot of parts are coming in. There is really no point in driving down south until I get my cam and transmission. Cam is being ground.
Regarding the transmission, I'm in contact with a few places out of state, as everyone here wants > $2k for a rebuilt one.
In the meantime, I'm modding the harness. It's really not that hard, just time consuming. I recommended everyone who does this swap mod their own harness. Brendan has all the info you need at lt1swap.com. You learn so much more this way.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v654/killmrryan/IMG_20110219_161322.jpg
I'm really glad I don't have a wife, as I can only imagine the bitching I'd get over having a wiring harness spread out in my living room.

"I'm really glad I don't have a wife, as I can only imagine the bitching I'd get over having a wiring harness spread out in my living room. "

LOL!

On the harness...I am almost certain to go with the HPtuners software to be able to tune the stock system myself. Has anyone used this program?

I've never used tuning software. I have a guy local with a dyno who gave my 99 ta with headers and no other mods 297 rwhp. I can only imagine what he will do with this. HP tuners is great but I don't have the patience to mess with it. I want to do it once and forget about it.

I'm getting close to putting the lq4 together and in the engine. I have all of the parts except I'm waiting on my custom cam from Geoff at EPS.
Today I got this:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v654/killmrryan/IMG_20110226_145305.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v654/killmrryan/IMG_20110226_145331.jpg

Hopefully I can get the cam before next weekend. Should make for some good pictures.

Oh my. Nice.

I finished pulling my 406 yesterday. Going to start on my LS3 mods to the engine after I finish some work travel in a few weeks. Your engine/trans is/will be same as mine. I understand the the 4L80 fits nice except for the cooling line fittings (if using non stock lines) so the tunnel needs a very minor clearancing just to not rub the line fittings. I will have to get in contact with the LS1 tech guy about a cam, that seems like a wise thing rather than an off the shelf cam. Have you bought the tranny/engine mounts yet?

I will be following the progress of this thread. Nice. :thumbsup:

I finished pulling my 406 yesterday. Going to start on my LS3 mods to the engine after I finish some work travel in a few weeks. Your engine/trans is/will be same as mine. I understand the the 4L80 fits nice except for the cooling line fittings (if using non stock lines) so the tunnel needs a very minor clearancing just to not rub the line fittings. I will have to get in contact with the LS1 tech guy about a cam, that seems like a wise thing rather than an off the shelf cam. Have you bought the tranny/engine mounts yet?

Hot Rod Magazine just did an article with a 4l80 install where they used some 90 degree fittings that really helped.

I bought the swaptech mounts. I'm going with the patc raptor cross member. Odds are I'll just use some Teflon line for the tranny connections.

Progress is slow because I can only work on this bad boy once a week, but here is update.
LS3 heads are installed, as is 222/230 .570 lift cam, upgraded springs, autokraft pan.
Engine/tranny is in car, sitting on mounts but not bolted up. I ordered PATC x member, but I guess I needed adjustible xmission mount. Will order today.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v654/killmrryan/IMG_20110402_113111.jpg

It doesn't look like much now but with the ls3 intake this engine will put 400hp to the wheels.

Also if you can't tell by the pics, I don't really care about engine dress up. To me, its all about function under the hood. To that end I just ordered a new custom rear end. I'll leave it to be discussed another day.

So what did you do for lines for the 4l80?

Nice. Wish I was that far on mine. I got my old engine out but have done nothing on the 6 litre.

I do hope to get some inspiration at the Malaysia F1 Grand Prix next weekend. I'll be the american guy on the start/finish line a few rows up. Nothing like 18,000 RPM to get me thinking about new engines.....

Lines not installed yet but I got some AN fittings and will be using braided Teflon hose.

I cant imagine you hurting the 4L80 with that engine, those transmissions are very strong. just make sure it's in good inital condition and you run a good cooler.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v654/killmrryan/IMG_20110515_151422.jpg
I'm getting there.
For lines, I found some special fittings that plug into the tranny that are -6AN.
They can be found here. (http://www.sweetperformance.com/product/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=496) From there I am using teflon lines with -6AN female hose ends on each side. I'm going to have to get an adapter, like male-male -6AN to -5 or 4AN (whatever the radiator size is) for the hookup to the radiator. I might run a cooler later.

So far I've got the engine sitting back one inch. This is the only way to get the PATC raptor xmember to work in my car without PATC's special LS-1 mount, which is a piece of crap. The intake almost touches the firewall, and the heater hose outlets actually do touch the valve covers. I might have to do some hammering there, but I haven't fully torqued the xmember down and it does appear to be about an inch or two low. I'm going to raise it up and tighten everything, then see what needs to be done.

I also installed the harness, which I modified with the info at lt1swap.com. The ECU will seat near the front driver's side headlight. The wiring is routed in between the front quarter panel and the wheel well, so you cannot see it from the engine compartment. Even though I don't have the firewall smooth, or even fresh paint in the engine compartment, I am still going after a relatively clean look, with all teflon hoses, etc. All the front sensor wires (alternator/MAF/MAP/ TPS/IAC/ECT) are actually routed under the intake manifold from the rear of the engine. You can see very little. Of course, it's all wrapped with the 1500 degree tape, so we shall see if anything melts.

I was going to use the truck alternator bracket, but screw that. It is super ugly and on my flat hood I would probably not have had the clearance. I'm just going to shell out the money for the Kwik brackets. I had to use the LS1 water pump, as you can see, but it has spacers to line up with the truck pulley. As such, I will be using the truck Kwik PS/ALT bracket, with AC to be added in the future. First things first.

Still a couple weeks off from firing it - I have one of the Spectra tanks, but I'm going to make a surge tank so I won't have any of the issues those tanks have (hopefully). Here's another picture:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v654/killmrryan/IMG_20110515_141437.jpg

Still waiting on the new rear end to come in as well. Probably another couple months until I can get this bad boy on the road. At least.

If your heater hoses are hitting at the firewall, why not use a big block heater core that swaps the outlet position? You'll have to cut some holes in the box or get a matching one but you'll have the clearance you need.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v654/killmrryan/IMG_20110521_141107.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v654/killmrryan/IMG_20110521_141134.jpg

So I installed the Kwik bracket, throttle body, and headers, as you guys can see. The truck bracket was ugly and would have hit my hood. I also installed the Spectra gas tank and put the corvette filter up in the back of the car. The spectra tank fit, but it was a pain in the ***. I'm going to try it with the spectra tank alone to see if I experience the problems people talk about. If I do, bam, surge tank.
Still putting together odds and ends.
I'm hoping to test fire the engine next weekend, but we'll see. I've probably screwed something up and will end up shooting gasoline everywhere.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v654/killmrryan/IMG_20110521_141423.jpg

Nice progress. My engine is just getting assembled. Are you using a corvette water pump? Hope to get all my engine parts received and assembled by end of next month. Pretty much what you have. I think I am going to use the dirty dingo adjutable engine mounts and the raptor x trans crossmember. I went with shorty 1 7/8 headers for fit up after looking at a few other conversions lately. Found a local guy who is building me a new harness with custom length wires so i can stuff the computer in the glove box.... and he has a dyno once its in so final tuning should be easier.

Nice progress. My engine is just getting assembled. Are you using a corvette water pump? Hope to get all my engine parts received and assembled by end of next month. Pretty much what you have. I think I am going to use the dirty dingo adjutable engine mounts and the raptor x trans crossmember. I went with shorty 1 7/8 headers for fit up after looking at a few other conversions lately. Found a local guy who is building me a new harness with custom length wires so i can stuff the computer in the glove box.... and he has a dyno once its in so final tuning should be easier.

I used the camaro water pump. You have to change water pumps unless you are going to run the truck intake because the pump hits the throttle body. My plan was to go with the spacers, relocated idler pulley, truck bracketry, and power steering pump. After I installed the truck pulley, I sawed down the truck bracket and put it on. It was really ugly. Much too ugly for this pretty engine. Plus it had clearance issues. Having already installed the truck pulley, I decided to order the truck kwik brackets and go with another power steering pump, and to leave the pump spacers on.

In retrospect, anyone trying to to this swap with an LQ4 should really think about the quick bracket. You're going to have to buy a new pump anyway, and if you're changing the cam the pulley will have to come off. So I highly recommend the kwik stuff.

The raptor stuff is a PITA, but I hadn't found a suitable alternative (and frankly I don't trust the machine shops and welders in Miami).

Anyway, I'm very pleased right now with the way the car is turning out. I'm going to put pictures of the fuel system next week.

Also, the rear end is going to be a surprise when everyone sees what I'm doing. That should be here sometime soon as well.

Nice work and a very informative writeup!! I am in the market for a new motor and having been contemplating doing an LS conversion. This thread has pretty much made up my mind to do it. I hope the wife doesn't get to upset about it.

Good thread. nice car too.

Ryan

Are you fitting an aircon? If not, are you able to get a belt to fit with all the pulleys less the aircon? I am in the process of fitting an LS3 into a 67 and will not be running an aircon. Just curious to know how the belt will work.

thanks
Walter

Sorry I haven't been updating, but this has taken a lot longer than I expected! Camo67 I am not running an A/C. I will put a vintage air unit in next spring. By the time I get this car done it will have cooled down and I won't need one until then.

I have been working each weekend on the car. About four weeks ago I am pleased to say the engine fired on the first try.

A few notable things.

Yes, your old radiator will work but there should be a provision for the steam vent tube. You need radiator hoses gates part numbers 22147 (upper) and 22437 (lower). It is a little tight on the radiator itself but use WD40 and you can get it on. You can and should use the valve foundhere (http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Parts_Cooling_LSI-tee.html) in the upper radiator hose and put a rubber hose form it to the steam vent.

I must also say if I had to do this over again I would NOT have started trying to use truck accessories. The truck pump will hit the throttle body. For any LSX engine, The best thing to do is to get an LS1 pump and balancer. You can use any gen III-IV alternator. As far as a power steering pump, well I had replaced my box with the IROC box, so I used a corvette pump and pulley. It all fit together nicely with the Kwik bracketry, and can be upgraded to add AC later.

As far as the harness, I wrapped it in that silver exhaust tape for the most part to keep it from burning. I routed my wires in the fender walls for a cleaner look and the ECU will be behind the driver's headlight.

The fuel system is all braided teflon hose. I have blocked off the heater hoses. You don't need a heater in Miami.

At this point I am redoing the dash and console. Just ordered a bunch of little parts from Rick's and am painting the interior. I ordered the 68 series gauges seen here (http://www.newvintageusa.com/images/68-2.jpg). They work with the LSX electronics.

I replaced the shifter detent with one from shift works. The intake hosing is from spectra. I couldn't use a threaded oil cooler delete for oil pressure so I made a tube to extend down to where the stock oil pressure pickup is. The ECU doesn't need it a pressure reading. It isn't the most elegant solution but it worked for me.

I tell you guys this has been a LOT of work and would be so much easier if the car was close to me. But when I first cranked that engine through open headers and she fired right up on the first turn of the key and gave me 40-50 oil PSI at idle, I was very, very pleased. Even without the throttle cable hooked up, I was really impressed by the ECU's ability to keep the engine from dying, and all of this without the MAF or O2 sensors hooked up. I get the idea that this engine will be super, super reliable, and extremely drivable, much moreso than my old poorly tuned 383.

At this point I am only waiting for my drive shaft to come in. I dealt with some local guys but they didn't seem to know what they were doing and wanted to charge me more than one of the national distributors. So I just called denny's. It should be here not next weekend but the weekend after. Hopefully by that time the driveshaft will be the only thing left to be done on the car and I can just drive it to have the exhaust welded up. Then it is off to the body shop for some touch ups and then to West Palm to have Dave Maslic from masport tune this bad boy on a dyno. This is assuming the junkyard transmission I bought works. Fingers crossed!

I nearly peed my pants when these gauges came in today. screw hacking up your dash. These fit right into a 67-68 console.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v654/killmrryan/IMG_20110831_190717.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v654/killmrryan/IMG_20110831_190651.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v654/killmrryan/IMG_20110831_190639.jpg
newvintageusa.com

Great project, ...and thanks for keeping us updated.
I'm doing over a '67 and it it wasn't for the fact that I've got a 350 SB ready to go in, ...I'd do th LS swap now. It's something I'm seriously going to consider for the future.
...BTW, ...those are some of the nicest looking aftermarket gauges I've seen :thumbsup:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v654/killmrryan/IMG_20110903_153658.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v654/killmrryan/IMG_20110903_153737.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v654/killmrryan/IMG_20110903_153749.jpg
She's getting there. It's the little things- wiring, gauges, etc.
Denny's says the driveshaft ships Sept 8. Exciting!

hey Ryan its looking really great!! i noticed in your last pic that you have the steam line routed to the upper rad hose. there is another trick to routing that line wich may be alot cleaner. i have read in my LS swap book that you can drill and tap the flat spot on the top of the water pump and thread in a 90 degree fitting to connect the steam line. that is what im looking into doing myself whenever i get to that point.

good luck your almost home free!!!

Stamatisg1977 I've thought of that, but 1) I don't really want to drill/tap. Seems like too much work. 2) I heard that if you do not put it in the highest point on the system (upper rad hose) then the system will trap air and run hot. It works, runs cool, and although it could be slightly more pleasing to the eye, this car isn't meant to win trophies, it's meant to drive every single day.

I'm so close I can TASTE IT. I would have pictures but my camera phone broke.
So I did all of the wiring under the hood. Everything is hooked up, lights, fan (haven't tested it yet), ECU, fuel pump. This weekend was a hell of a time getting the in-car wires all straightened out. Here are a few things I did:

I stripped down everything from the dash (wasn't much as it was all already stripped down anyway, just had three sunpro gauges, no woodgrain, etc). I then painted it with rustoleum and foam rollers with several coats. I polished it with a polishing pad and a cordless drill. It isn't going to win shows and there is still a small amount of orange peel, but to the untrained eye it actually looks really nice and I am very pleased with the result. I replaced the pillar posts and the kick panels. The kick panels are actually aftermarket ones that allowed me to install 6.5" speakers. I went with pioneers. I installed a custom autosound stereo, new ashtray, "wood" dash cover, reused the old heater controller. I bought a new gauge cluster and all new knobs, switches and vents.

I also bought a new shifter panel (with the PRND321 lens on it), and got the new vintage USA gauges working. I can't figure out how to make the left blinker indicator work (the blinker works, just not the indicator), but I figured if everything else works I can re-visit that when I put in the vintage air AC this winter.

What remains is getting the proper adapter for the temp gauge, hooking, getting the reverse lights to work properly, hooking up the lighter correctly, and finalizing the ignition switch and headlight in-dash wiring. Then that completes the interior.

The only remaining mechanical things before I drive to the exhaust shop are the rear brakes and drive shaft. The engine is in, wired up and looking good - it starts every time (but in limp mode).

As for the rear brakes, what a hassle. One caliper had corroded so badly that I stripped the threads with the banjo bolt. The "replacement" caliper from autozone was tapped for the wrong thread for the banjo bolt. So I still have to finish the brake system. Plus i got some solid mounts I'm going to install.

Once that is in and my drive shaft is hooked up, I'm going to drive to have the exhaust welded up. Exciting!

The driveshaft has shipped and should be here Tuesday or so. But this coming weekend will be a week off for me as my father is in town to watch the Miami-OSU game with me. So maybe two weekends the car will be on the road!

6:30 am. Haven't seen the car in two weeks. Camaro day!

Today was a day of setbacks. I had hoped I would actually get the car to drive with open headers today, even if only for a few feet. The rear brakes had been a PITA for a while.

I didn't mention it but I actually had a gentleman from Ohio weld me up a 9.5" 14 bolt truck rear to fit in the camaro. Jim from JD Race is his name. The rear is installed and bolted up beautifully. It is a good looking piece with a chrome cover.

I had shipped the calipers to Jim along with the brackets and discs (they are LT1 brakes) so he could make sure everything fits with the rear, and when I got the brakes back I let them sit in the humidity for a while and they got a little corroded. When I tried to put in the banjo bolts I stripped them out. So I went down to autozone. Naturally the calipers they give me are messed up - one is OK but doesn't fit the speed bleeders I have, and the other doesn't even fit the banjo bolt. I said to hell with it and ordered some new ones from ebay. They are centric parts, and they turned out really nice. Although I did have to use a hacksaw to shorten the bolt on the e-brake cable bracket, the rears accepted my speed bleeders, and they already had their own banjo bolts.
Plus they look beautiful:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v654/killmrryan/IMG_20110925_171155.jpg
Really impressed with the centric brake parts, would order them again.
Bled the brakes, and the previous sponginess is almost completely gone. It might even be completely gone. :)

That was where all hell broke loose. First, this happened:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v654/killmrryan/IMG_20110925_103605.jpg
That's right, the $400 driveshaft I got from Denny's had the wrong cap size. I think I could cry. Who knows how long this problem will take to fix? I have to call denny's because luckily I have access to a press, and if it is only a u-joint issue, maybe they can just send me one.

So I move on and do the biggest PAIN IN THE *** task one can undertake on these cars:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v654/killmrryan/IMG_20110925_170823.jpg
That's right, I now have the GW solid body mounts (I have the GW SFCs, just waiting to weld up my exhaust to install them so I can have the welder do a 2 for 1). Installing these mounts was extremely difficult. Luckily, I had sprayed PB on the bolts almost every weekend for several months. Everything is installed after a bunch of fussing. Despite very old rubber body mounts, no cages broke, everything torqued down. It was just a real pain. Hopefully I will never have to do that again.


The next task was to install the water temp sensor in the passenger head so I could see how hot things were getting and whether my fan worked. I quickly unplugged the plug that was in the the head, fluid rushed out, and I quickly put in the adapter with the sensor. I got the adapter from newvintageusa, as I couldn't find any other adaptors that worked with their sensor. I plug the thing in, and *hand* tighten it, give it maybe three quarter turns with the wrench and bam, the threaded portion of the adapter separates from the head of the adapter. The head of the adapter comes out, naturally the threaded portion is in the head, in a very difficult place to reach. I was thinking I was going to have to pull the headers, and maybe the front fender skirt, when I was able to use the sensor to get the adapter threads out of the head. Disaster averted, for now. Check out the picture:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v654/killmrryan/IMG_20110925_171019.jpg
You can see how the adapter broke in two, the piece on the left was stuck in my head. We'll see what newvintage does, they've been great so far and I still highly recommend their gauges, especially the 68 series.

Finally, it looks as though I'll have to cut my lug bolts. I got new 1/2" lug bolts and they are too long! I don't have a dremel, so it looks like the hacksaw again. :(
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v654/killmrryan/IMG_20110925_171107.jpg

Anyway, a neighbor stopped by who like the car (he's an el camino guy) and offered some words of encouragement. He said I was so close to done. I feel that way, but I feel like every time I get close, another problem comes up! This project it WELL WORTH IT, however. Remember if you do this it will take months and unexpected stuff will happen. Plus, it's not cheap. I'm sure I'm in over 10k, but that includes the tranny, $2k rear, brake stuff, etc. etc. I'll add it all up at the end.


Next week I'm going to remove the heater box. I'm going to be prepping the car for a vintage air install. I want to prep the car so that when my driveshaft is all squared away, the car will be on the road. See you all next week!

Things never go as planned. But, all aside, the project looks nice.

My suggestion for the wheel studs is leave the studs, and either drill/tap the existing lug nuts or get open ended lugnuts. The studs are heat treated and the builder probably did not know what lugnut was foing to be used.

As for the U-joint, you might match up a Precision U372 U-joint.

Spoke with Mark@ new vintage... he is sending a replacement adapter. Said that uneven happened before.
Denny's said that they did indeed send the proper u joint. Guy was very smart. Said I probably needed to squeeze the end caps together with a c clamp before trying to install it. He said it was a common problem. Let's hope he is correct.

I went down to see the car last night. It looks like the caps are in fact correct. However, the inner locking c clips are just a tiny bit too wide. On Saturday I will check to make sure the needle bearings aren't messed up under the caps, and if not, ill compress the ends of the u joint as suggested per Denny's. Let's hope that does it! I want this car to drive this weekend!

Great day! It turns out the caps on the u joint were correct, they just needed to be squeezed together so that the c-clips would fit properly. Driveshaft is in and bolted up. Actually alot of the day was spent with the engine running. It really is a thrill to hear this sucker run, even with open headers in open loop. I plugged in the new water temp sensor and it works great. I finished all of the wiring under the dash. Neutral safety switch works great, brake lights work, turn signals, etc. I even put this in:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v654/killmrryan/IMG_20111001_132747.jpg
OBDII port!!!
And it works, too! I bought an ELM 327 odbii scanner for like twelve bucks or something on ebay, and hooked it to my laptop. It reads and clears codes, reports the engine stats, etc. It's not EFI life, but hey, it was twelve bucks. Well worth it. My engine reported that there was a problem with the MIL circuit, and also that there were no front O2 sensors (because there aren't any - yet, waiting for exhaust to get hooked up and want to stay in open loop for now).
I was exstatic when my computer turned on my fan at 195 degrees!
The Spectra tank's pump was acting strange - it usually makes a "whirrr" when you put the key in (the computer turns it on for two seconds to prime the fuel lines when you put the key in IGN). However, it started to "groan" rather than "whirr". When I put more gas in it the problem stopped. Hopefully that's all it was but these pumps are known for failure. I am just going to drive it till it breaks. (Getting AAA when I start driving this car regularly).

I did hit a couple other snags. The Lokar dipstick for the tranny didn't fit that well and I had to jam it in there. Probably should have installed it when the tranny was out of the car, but oh well. It sits half way in (couldn't get it in any further) but there are no leaks or drips from the tranny so I'm not complaining. Frankly I think the lokar products are **** (flexible engine dip stick will get ROASTED , 4l80e dipstick doesn't fit, pedal sold on ebay for the 68 didn't even work).

The NEXT problem is that I noticed an oil leak. It is coming from the oil pressure sender at the rear of the engine. The threaded oil cooler delete didn't fit with the headers, and the large sending unit didn't fit on the back of the factory location due to the intake, so I used an adapter with some small threaded brass tubes and fittings from Napa. It reads pressure fine, but now that I'm running the engine for a little longer to see how it does, the leak shows. I believe it is coming from the fact that the adapter I used didn't come with a copper washer/gasket. So I bought some assorted size ones from the "help" section. I also got some high temp gasket maker and thread tape in case that fails. We will see tomorrow, but I'm confident the gasket will work.


Tomorrow I am hoping to fix the leak and then back the car out of my garage so I can do a good cleaning. It will be the first time the car has rolled under its own power. Next weekend I hope to take it to the exhaust shop. This is going to be one MEAN sounding car. I can already tell.

...been reading all your updates, ...figured I'd post :)
Keep up the great work Ryan, ...getting real close :thumbsup:

Worked again all day on the car. The morning started like this:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zqaCUHz3MjQ
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FzwOBAi3eQw

It is awesome when your ECU turns on your fan. (skip ahead to 30 seconds in).
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UGq3P6fsAjA
It turns on at 195 degrees.

And then. Kaput. Kept turning over but wouldn't start. Timing light showed no spark. Checked codes, it said there was a problem with the MAF in the intake piping. Tuns out this was the problem:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v654/killmrryan/IMG_20111002_142444.jpg.
The MAF wire got caught in the belt. The ground and the +12 got crossed. I fixed it. But still it didn't turn over. I checked the fuses with my multimeter and it said they were fine. Most of my wiring is hidden behind the manifold. I actually routed a the front sensors underneath the manifold. (you can do it on an LS engine). After a great deal of troubleshooting, turns out it really was a fuse:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v654/killmrryan/IMG_20111002_150358.jpg
Car started right up once I replaced it.
Actually got it down from the jackstands, and for the first time since January, it rolled under its own power!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v654/killmrryan/IMG_20111002_164822.jpg
Tranny works! Rear is good!

I killed it a few feet out of the garage. When I tried to fire it up again, it would fire up and die immediately. I played with a couple of wires and it fired up, but there are some codes the car is throwing. Specifically, MAF, MAP, and TPS are not working. It is probably a short. But that will have to wait until next weekend because I literally spent all day there both days. We'll see if next weekend I can get the exhaust installed.

Oh and the oil leak is fixed.

congrats!

can't wait to do this. :beers:

So on Saturday I worked hard to fix an oil leak and to repair some shorts/codes with my harness/sensors. I thought it was a good idea to run wires to front sensors under the intake next to the block (it will fit in an LQ4). DO NOT DO THIS. Even with the 1500 degree wrap (if the wires don't burn) it is still a pain to get to if something acts up. Removed manifold and reinstalled it. After all the troubleshooting the MAP was bad, paid $50 for another one, codes stopped.

Sunday I actually drove the car about 25 mph with open headers on open loop. Very hard to keep alive. O2s need to be hooked up and car needs to be tuned. I couldn't get the exhaust welded because it was raining all day, and I had the hood off and couldn't drive in the rain.

Here is another video.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=Way5nBWRwxc

So on Saturday I worked hard to fix an oil leak and to repair some shorts/codes with my harness/sensors. I thought it was a good idea to run wires to front sensors under the intake next to the block (it will fit in an LQ4). DO NOT DO THIS. Even with the 1500 degree wrap (if the wires don't burn) it is still a pain to get to if something acts up. Removed manifold and reinstalled it. After all the troubleshooting the MAP was bad, paid $50 for another one, codes stopped.

Sunday I actually drove the car about 25 mph with open headers on open loop. Very hard to keep alive. O2s need to be hooked up and car needs to be tuned. I couldn't get the exhaust welded because it was raining all day, and I had the hood off and couldn't drive in the rain.

Here is another video.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Way5nBWRwxc

Sounds great as it is... don't mess it up with a bunch of pipes :)

Looking good man, keep it up.

i mighta missed it, what oil pan are you running? That's my next purchase and can't make up my mind on which pan to get!

I chose the autokraft/champ pan. Fits great. The problem is that with the dynamax headers you can't use the threaded oil cooler delete (to thread in the sensor) because it won't fit. You have to use the regular delete, and it is about 1/4" away from the header. However, it hasn't caused me a problem so far.

At around 7:30 am Saturday morning, I pulled the car out of the garage. For the first time this LSX hybrid hit the public streets. With open headers. I creeped at 20 mph on the new shocks/springs and new posi 14 bolt rear end. Three blocks later, this happened:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v654/killmrryan/IMG_20111015_082730.jpg

I hear these guys are the best in Miami. Old school guys.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v654/killmrryan/IMG_20111015_072935.jpg

Had the guys weld up my old Flowmaster American Thunder 2.5 system to the new collectors. Except I took out the mufflers and changed them with Magnaflows. More power and quieter. It sounds like this:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qPg1RwDZZOI

You can hear a strange whistle at about 1:10. I'm pretty sure it is the O2s not being seated correctly.

You wouldn't believe how happy I was when the OBDII scanner showed this:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v654/killmrryan/IMG_20111015_114756.jpg

CLOSED LOOP BABY!! That means the O2 sensors are used for fueling.

The car needs a tune in a serious way. It runs and drives, but stumbles badly when you give it too much throttle and really hesitates to idle. It dies frequently. It reminds me of my old 383! Which, today, I gave, for free (a 400hp engine) to a guy in my complex, along with the old TH350. He's become a really good friend. He needs the engine more than I need the money. He'll put it in his El Camino (which had a spun bearing).

Now the most I've gone is 35mph. I really want to take it on the FREEWAY. But, I want to get the suspension ALL taken care of. Got Hotchkiss 2" lowing springs in the front, which are too low - the headers are about 3" from the ground - using the GW spring spacers to raise it up an inch. Got the EDL IAS shocks all around.

I'm calling SC&C and ordering the Stage II kit here (http://scandc.com/new/node/45) tomorrow AM. Plus new lower ball joints, as well as the Hotchkiss 2207f anti sway bar and new transmission cooler.

Next weekend I'm going to take it to a body shop to make sure the frame is straight and aligned properly. Once that's all taken care of, on go the new suspension parts, having it aligned (if I can find a place open Saturday in time), and I'll be having a guy weld up my SFCs Sunday morning and I'll set the pinion angle. If it is aligned Saturday, you can bet your *** I'll be doing a 100 mph blast on the turnpike.

The good news is that I ordered the stage II kit. The bad news, it won't ship for another 10-12 days. :(
At least that gives me time to ensure everything else is cool.

Haven't updated in a while. So the powertrain is in, but with the hotchkiss 2" drop springs in the front and the GW 1 1/2" drops in the rear, the headers are like 1" off the ground. I've decided to raise up the engine with different mounts. The PATC 4l80e kmember sucks, it droops and doesn't hold the tranny in well - just a poor design. So I went and got one from crossmembers.com, and it seems like it will provide the right angle and more clearance. I think with the correct angle and the engine raised, I can get better clearance and still maintain the low ride.
Brakes still feel spongy - need to work on the bleeding.
Also I got an SC&C stage II kit and a hotchkiss 1 1/8 hollow bar. Will be installing it all tomorrow. Hopefully I'll get the clearance I need without spring spacers. Got to get the driveline angles and clearances right, and make sure the brakes work. If I can do that, I'll be testing it on the freeway tomorrow. If I can reach that step it will be a 4 wheel alignment next weekend and the week after Thanksgiving I'll have it tuned by masport. Then it's off to paint and I'm DONE until spring when a new AC will be put in.

I nearly peed my pants when these gauges came in today. screw hacking up your dash. These fit right into a 67-68 console.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v654/killmrryan/IMG_20110831_190717.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v654/killmrryan/IMG_20110831_190651.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v654/killmrryan/IMG_20110831_190639.jpg
newvintageusa.com

Ry,

I'm glad the gauges worked out and that Mark is a good egg! Hell, he gave us a discount because we both wanted the blue background :beers: BTW, take a pic of the gauges lit up pls! I am still a few weeks behind you on getting my baby running and would love to see them lit!:hurray:

http://www.screaminperformance.net/gallery/Current%20Projects/TC's%2068%20SS%20Vert/slides/IMG_6687.JPG

TC

great project and progress, congrats.

How goes it?

How are the NVU gauges working out? I hear that they are really nice looking in person (better than photos) and the lights are sweet, however, I am also hearing that the Speedo is erratic and the tach is sensitive to RF which in turn makes it "bounce". Are you noticing either of these issues?

My guess is that these are normal growing pains for a new product line from a relatively small company (as compared to Auto Meter) until the work through these issues.

One last question...So far, what single upgrade (improvement) have you done that is the most satisfying to you?