Who has the cheapest set of forged 383 pistons? The set I was looking at around a year ago magically went up about $20 a piece.

Take a look at Speed Pro. They used to be under the TRW brand. Tough piston too, a little on the heavy side though. They go for about $325 a set if I remember correctly. Call Summit or Jegs for your specific piston.

Don't know if I would trust REAL cheap pistons. I'd rather use a stock intake or carb for a while and upgrade later - then spend the $ on good pistons. Its aweful hard to go back and change out pistons ;)

Good luck!

I know that you are looking for cheap pistons but I tell ya man it doesn't make sense to spend 325 on chepo pistons when you can get a set of JE's for $450-500

Unless you just want or need a forged piston, KB and speed pro make hypereutectic 383 pistons in all kinds of variations for under $250 a set.

What is your reason for wanting to run a forged piston? Are you going to use go juice or any other power adder? Or is it a stock type rebuild? :D

IMO if its a stock type rebuild, or you're going to use 150 shot or less, then just go with a hyperuetectic, but if its a blower, turbo, +150 shot or just severe duty, then by all means go forged. Just my dos pesos. graemlins/thumbsup.gif

I was thinking about building a 383 since my old faithful 355 is getting tired. I have ran the engine for a few years now. Surprisingly it has lived through some hell. I run an N.O.S. Cheater kit set on a 100 shot tuneup. Its a stock bottom end 355 just good ARP rod bolts and TRW L2256 cheapie forged pistons. Dart iron heads with a home port job and an old Holley Strip Dominator intake with a 750 DP. In the better days of this engine I managed to get some 6.90's at 98mph out it depending on the track prep.
Sorry guys this isn't a Camaro but a 66ChevyII SS. I did try a 200 shot tuneup a few times but track prep and my tires couldn't take it. I picked up a little e.t. but not as much as I should have I thought.
Anybody wanting to run nitrous oxide. Its not the engine grenade you think it is. True it can fry your engine with the wrong tuneup but with a dedicated fuel system and some safety features you can have a lot of fun. Well i have rambled enough. Back to what I was getting at. I thought about moving up to a 383 im just not sure about the rotating assembly as far as which rods don't or shouldn't need grinding for clearance and pistons. Which ones to buy. Maybe it was luck but my TRW's held on so long and are still OK I just couldn't hardly justify buying a $500 set of JE's, SRP's or so on. Maybe i will buy the big boy pistons. Maybe im still trying to get out on the cheap after all this time.
Anybody know which rods won't need stroker clearancing. Ive looked at H-beams but haven't read if they will need to be clearanced.
Who know's i may just forget the 383 altogether and go with a hotter 355. I just thought I would stay up with crowd. Their is hardly anybody running plain old 350's everybody has 383's now.
Anyway i have plenty of time to decide the car is on the stands right know getting knew springs. The trans needs rebuilt. It finally screamed for a rebuild im sure the clutch pacs are toast.
You guys let me know about the rotating assemblies. Thanks a lot! A book by Chopper graemlins/clonk.gif

Chopper,

I'm almost ready to pick my new 383 up from the machine shop... I purchased through the machinist and only have about $900.00 in parts. New Scat stroker crank, Speed Pro hyper pistons with the coated skirts, new ARP studs for the mains and bolts for the rods all bearings and freeze plugs. I'm hoping to make around 400 ponies and to have it last 20 + years

As far as clearencing the block... I used stock rods and only had to take off a little just below the pan rail area. I'll have about $1,800 total tied up in it... So I don't think that I did to bad on the build price.

Hope the info helps

Bust of luck,
Tom

It wasn't luck your motor held together, those TRW's are tough pistons. They are an older design and a bit heavy by today's standard's but they are durable and will work fine with a mild N2O motor.

BTW - The good old TRW pistons you had are now sold by Federal mogul under the Speed Pro brand. Same pistons, different name. Maybe some updates to material, but basically the same.

Scat has a newer connecting rod that looks very interesting, it is an H beam design, but uses 7/16" cap screws in place of the wavelock bolts. In addition, they have polished beams, they look nice in the photos, but I have not heard of anyone using them, or how much they weigh. I beams are usually a bit lighter than the H beams, which in iteslf is desirable.

Anyone used these? I am thinking about going stroker now too (350 to 383).

Mark

I have seen a set of I-beam rods from Scat sold on Ebay. They look just like Lunati's Pro Mod rod. I think Scat call theirs Pro Billet. They selling right now on Ebay for $249. They look impressive but looks don't really mean anything. I found that out from some women I went out with. ;)
I haven't heard of anyone who has bought Scat's Pro rod. If the quality is good I would probably buy them but I just don't know. Pro rods for $249 or H-beams for $329. They advertise the I-beams good for 750hp. I guess I could put the big jets in the Cheater kit to test the rods. If I kick a rod out I know not to buy another set. graemlins/clonk.gif
Keep the input flowing thanks guys. graemlins/thumbsup.gif

Seems to me if i could spend an extra $ 80 for the rods I knew performed and should last through a few mills I would spend the extra dough. Whats pulling the motor and a tear down worth. I don't have expierience to weigh in that heavy, but to me i would err on the side of the extra insurance. Yeah i know a $100 here $50 there pretty soon you are $500 over budget, but if you are extend the capabilities and durabilities its money well spent in my book. Just my .01 worth it will be worth .02 after another year or so :D

Dave