HELP!!! Thanks in advance...
I have a 68 vert and am about to reassemble the trim and weatherstrip for the front windshield and need massive help. I have replaced the upper dash and upper cowl so that screws things up from the glass support and trim clip side of life. I do have the old dash so that helps and the holes are visible I just don't know where the lower windshield glass supports attach (spacing from the windshield pillar)
I have all three manuals...I have looked through them and maybe missed this but where the heck do they show how all the window trim and pillar trim goes back together (unfortunately for me the car was partially torn down when purchased and all this stuff was off the car in boxes). I have sort of figured out how it goes but have a long way to go to get it all dialed in.
On the pillar stainless (inside piece that holds the weather strip) does anyone have a photo showing where the glass retainer sits (black metal bracket held in with pop rivets), are there one or two of these retainers? then where the weatherstrip sits how does this install....in order. I.O.W. does the pillar molding go on then the head molding then the inside pillar molding then the window molding...:confused:..what a can of worms. I have a headake just thinking of this. I am sure there is a logical way to do it I just need help with that.

Piles of photos would surely help...if you have them please link, paste, reference, etc as any would be helpful.

Thanks SOOO Much! :beers: :thumbsup:

I am re-assembling my '68 convertible and I have not yet installed the windshield. I'm sure I can help you and can take any picture you want.

But I just don't understand the problem as you described it. Please tell me specifically what you need and what pictures you want.

Glad to help if I can.

Vic

Vic,
I think I figured out most of this. I placed the windshield and drilled all the holes for the lower trim brackets. The side pillar stainless pieces have been placed and I figured out what piece goes on top of the other...this took a bit of testing and looking at many photos on line. I still have not placed the inner pillar pads or the windshield header trim. I have an aftermarket header so I am sure this will be no fun to place and get it right. I have test fit it and it will be a challenge to deal with since the fit is not perfect.

Any photos you can link or post during your process would be great.
Thanks for the reply.

The A-piller molding goes on first, but you need to make sure where the fender meets the lower edge of the piller molding is good (not touching and lines up well). If you still have the original factory holes along the windshield side (2) go with those. Then the header goes on (have fun!) then you put the door glass W/S channel and W/S in as well as the windsheild molding. The windsheild molding top peice and side pieces get layed in together and centered. Then clip the top center and middle of the side just to hold them. then insert the lower molding (both L&R together) into the side from the bottom. There should be a little tab on the lower molding that wraps around the side piece. When you get it all laying there and looking correct, start snapping it into the clips. the lower molding is adjustable to get the correct curve. Luck!

Thanks Kevin,
I will give it a shot. I have some of what you said done. I am working toward it slowly...lots of other stuff to do as well. Finally got the power windows and door locks and power top all wired up...that was a bear. Today got the wiper motor installed and the wire covers installed at the rockers. I hope to get the window in in the next week or so. Man it taking a lot longer than I would have hoped...but I think it will be worth it.

The repro conv header trims are a PITA to make fit. First set I got wasn't even close to lining up with the A-pillar angle, there is a whole thread on this. Put the header trim on before setting the glass as you need the windshield trim clips to sit on top of the lower edge of the header trim. I have pics of the upper, right, and left trim clip locations if you need them.

RJ,
I have installed the header trim...second time was not as bad as the first (test fit). Rear pinchweld molding was far worse (and it was an original SS molding)... The aftermarket set I received is not perfect but not as bad as I thought. The upper holes lined up perfectly. The outer edges to quarter trim took some banging on with a rubber mallet but they now look pretty good. The front edge of the header was the worst....I had to take a body hammer to it to get it to wrap downward and clear the front clips....looks pretty good now...I have not installed the window trim or window as yet so I guess this will be the true test. So far so good.

I installed the dash today and that was a nightmare (aftermarket crap) the thing does not sit down on the top of the dash well. and while screwing in one of the lower screws the screw tipped off center of the hole and the screwdriver put a nice 2" scratch in the newly painted dash ^$#*%@!@%@#*$*^!!!! I was not happy about that. Stuff happens but man what a drag. Time to sand and repaint.

Thanks for the response! I will post some photos on my car domain site tomorrow.

I find rubber mallets seem to be a required tool for installing trim/moldings on these cars :yes:

RJ,
Yes they are!
Either that or a powerful grip with a lot of weight behind it. ;)

One thing I would like to know...since I don't do verts everyday...I have a gap between the header molding and the pillar molding...the header molding sits up about 1/8" above the pillar molding (distance between the two planes and not a gap between the pieces if that makes sense, if not imagine, a sandwich and the meat not quite touching the bread its laying on)...it does not look horrible it is just noticeable...and annoying. Is this standard fare for the aftermarket header moldings or are all the moldings like this? :confused:

Yup! That is the problem spot for the repros. I shoved some 3M strip caulk under there to minimize it :(

Kevin,
I guess I just need a bigger hammer....:D

My repro header molding fit the same way and I filled the gap with the same dum-dum (electricians putty) that went under the header piece to seal it against the windshield frame. I rolled out a section ~1/4" dia and just stuffed it up into the gap. The excess cleans off easily with Goo Gone.

RJ,
Good to know...do you have a pict of that?
What is the color of that stuff? ...grey? Where can you get it?
Does this stuff do anything?..quiets wind noise?...looks better?
Also the putty under the header...does this go under the front edge of the header? My car was disassembled in this area (no header, no pillar moldings, no front glass) so I have no reference and the manuals are worthless on this stuff...at least what I could find.

FYI the guy who had the car before me cut off the header molding..in sections....unbelievable. All he left me was part of the corners. I would have much rather done a satin/brushed re-chrome.

Joe,

I don't really have a good picture of it due to the glare off the inside of the windshield but I'll see if I can get a better one tonight. The putty is available at Home Depot, Lowe's etc. I bought mine at Home Depot. It was in the electrical area near the twist nuts and pull boxes, made by Gardner-Bender (GB), and was just a few dollars for a stick. One stick should be easily more than enough.

I used the grey/beige stuff for exterior window caulking, blends in fairly well.

I tried getting good pics last night and no matter what lighting I setup the pic does not look good. The putty is dark gray in color and remains pliable through time and heat cycles.

RJ,
Thanks. I was out of town today but hopefully can look for it tomorrow.