Thought maybe you guys could help me iron out a few problems. I just completed a 540 swap from the 383 I've been running. Its been a brutal winter of swapping heads on a brand new Bill Mitchell 540, casting problems with the original heads on the motor caused oil leaks from the deck. That problem has been resolved. I finally got it out today, it pulls hard, I had a 525 hp American speed motor in the car prior to the 540, once you hit about 4500 rpm this thing far exceeds the small block. Any way it looks like the rear oil pan gasket is leaking, and it appears they assembled it with a fair amount of gasket sealer. If I try to tighten the bolts is it possible the leak could get worse. And they used a 7 quart kick out oil pan from milidon do I have to run the full 7 quarts? Is it better to run it on 5 or 6. Can the pan gasket be replaced while the motor is in the car?
Thanks Rich

Http://community.webshots/user/67ragtp

To many hours in front of the screen, I messed up.

Http://community.webshots.com/user/67ragtp

graemlins/clonk.gif

Jeez, sounds like they sold you a real " quality" engine. if you change the pan in the car, get some ARP oil pan studs and definetly a one piece oil pan gasket, you will be fine with 6 quarts, and will also help reduce windage just a tiny bit.

You have my interest as you put this monster in a convertible. Any chassis flex?

Rick,
The flex is not too bad. Since I connected the frame and welded the 4point bar in it, it seems to be pretty tight. Once those mods were made you can really feel the difference. When I launch it at the track the real test will begin. The small block launched nice and straight, I just have to work on my 60' times and get it to hook a little better. Im hoping to ease it into the 11's without having to beat the snot out of it.
Rich

Hey Rich,

The car looks great! graemlins/thumbsup.gif Hope to see you at the track this year. I should have my 502 project completed in June. We always take the car up to Island on Sundays. Just let me know if I can lend a hand.
Joe

Rich, that roll bar is terrific. Just how I'd like mine. It looks 'factory'.

Thanks Guys,

Joe- What part of jersey are you from? And what color is your car? Do you run Auto or Manual? I cant wait to get back to Island, my problem is I dont own a trailer, I rent from uhaul when I go. I could buy one but Im lacking room to store the damn thing,just bought a ram 1500 w/ a Hemi should have know problem towing now. BTW Im from Oakland.

Rick- S&W racecars makes great roll bar kits, If you search past posts on my name, I explained some of the details when I did the job. When I was laying it out, one of the things I found important from a visual stand point, was to cut the main hoop down so its just under the height of the windshield frame. And tilt it back slightly so when the quarter window is up, the bar is concealed behind the quarter window seal. It might not be NHRA legal and all that stuff but it looks decent and stiffens the car a bit. I picked up a nice Lincoln Mig welder when I did it, one of the best tools I ever bought, Ive got my 11 year old son arc'in and spark'in now.

Rich

67ragtop,

Very nice looking installation. I am getting close to finishing my 505 BB for my 68 I have a few questions if you dont mind. Or anyone else chime in for that matter.

I,ve already changed my heator core to the BB one, so that is out of the way.

I noticed you have a smaller brake booster, Did you have to change it to clear the tall valve covers.

Did you use the same frame mounts, or buy some BB mounts from somewhere.

Where did you get the alternator brackets and pullys?

Those plug wire looms on the VC bolts look very nice, where did you get those?

Thanks

Oh yea, about the oil level in your pan, personaly I would run it at the full level. If you run a lower level with a kick out, there is a slight chance you could uncover the pickup screen and suck air under hard acceleration or cornering. We think of oil as being thickish, but when at operating temps, oil has the consistancy of a liquid, somewhat like coffee. It can get to sloshing around in the pan pretty good at times, (put a cup of coffee on your dash and go for a drive and youll see what I mean) High performance boats jump, pitch, rock and roll and splash oil all over the place in the pan during rough water runs, so it is common practic to run 10 to 14 quart pans to insure there is always oil in the pan and to keep oil temps down. http://community.webshots.com/user/wsm9808

[ 04-19-2003, 09:03 AM: Message edited by: kamero68 ]

Kamero68,

Thanks, Your car looks great too, you should post some under hood photos as well. Its amazing how the whole attitude of the car changes when you look at the lower profile tires and then look at the shot with the slicks on it. The slicks make that thing look like a pro street car- AWESOME!

The brake booster had to go, although I didnt try the stock booster, I've heard to many horor stories. And now that the motor is in, there's no way those VC's would have fit. WWW.mpbrakes.com (http://WWW.mpbrakes.com)

I dont know if you noticed but there's a blank off plate over the opening in the fire-wall where the windshield wiper motor should be. Another problem with Tall VC's. Not sure if the wiper motor on the 68 is the same as 67. If its the same as 69, I beleive they tilted it a bit which could give more clearance. Detroit speed and engineering has a low profile wiper motor. I will probably purchase one eventually.

I went with stock BB frame mounts purchased from Ricks. This turned into an issue when I called Dan Lemons to have my headers made. He wanted me to use SB mounts, I guess he's able to fit them easier with the SB mounts. I was adimit about using the factory mounts so he went to work, luckily he has a factory 68 BB car with 4-speed that he could model the pipes on. The BB mounts elevate the engine slightly on one side. And since he didnt have fixtures made up for a 4-speed car he had to bend the #5 tube and #7 tube in directions I never thought a pipe could go. Becareful when you select your pipes, one of the biggest problems with headers fitting properly is the location of the exhaust ports in the heads. The grumpy jenkins design is raised .375" . Most headers for BBs were modeled around stock port locations hooker/headman- and they still fit like sh** . Theres nothing worse than pounding on a good set of pipes to make it fit around the PS box or pitman arm.

Pulleys and brackets- www.zoops.com (http://www.zoops.com)

Plug wire looms- purchased from Summit Racing there made by a company called MADE FOR YOU products.

Good luck with your conversion, if you get a chance tell us about your BB combo and how did the car run at the track with the SB? You may want to consider connecting the frame.

Thanks Rich

Thanks for the info Rich. Car runs 12.75 with mild 400 sb now. pretty fun little street car, but I'm looking forward to the big block.

I have a question for you? I noticed that you are not using the water bypass hose between the intake and waterpump. Not wanting to sound smart, by what is the reason for this hose being deleted? Does it help keep your engine cooler or what? I have always been informed to run it, but if I don't I'll pull mine off also.
I also agree with you on the S&W kits. I'm a big fan of S&W and they've done me well.
Bruce :D

Rich, the car looks great. We may have spoken before. I have a 67 convertible also, same color, that will be home to a 502 BB. A question for you. How did you tie in the base of the roll bar? I have seen installations from Detroit Speed where they fabricated a plate that the bottom of the bar sits on and it transfers the load over to the rocker. It sits between the frame tie and the rocker. I plan on keeping my bar low, just above the back of the seat. I really don't want it to act as a roll bar but more of a chassis stiffener. How did you do yours?