I've learned so much from the experts on this forum and up to now most of my posts began with "how do I...", well I thought it would be good to start one with "this is what I did...". So this thread will start from the beginning and chronicle my entire build up to now, and will continue until the car is back on the highways of California doing what it was meant to do...drive!

History:
I bought the car in August 2010 from a guy in San Jose. This is my first Camaro!

VIN 124378L332196

The car was born in 1968 at the Van Nuys plant in Los Angeles, California. The car was built with a 327ci V8. The original color was Corvette Bronze Metallic (OO), which isn't really rare except for the fact that it was one of three colors shared with the Corvette in 1968. The interior had the popular houndstooth cloth pattern which deteriorated and was replaced with standard vinyl. The car lived in California it's whole life and from what I found under the rear seat, the car was used on fishing trips - I found an old fishing license from 1969.


Originality:
As for what is still original after 42 years, well a lot. For starters the engine, transmission, intake, carb, radiator, and exhaust manifold are all original. The glass, dash and all internal components appear to be original. The rear axle/diff, suspension, steering components also appears to be original.


My Plan:
For those of you who believe in originality, you might want to turn away now...sorry.

The interior has already been gutted, which you will see later. I'm going to install a custom center console and new steering column. Other than that the interior will remain original - aside from new paint and new chrome pieces.

The exterior will be painted midnight black with two white stripes. The hood will be changed to an SS style for aesthetics. The rear already has the fin. The rims will be changed to polished torque thrusts again for aesthetics. The original decals are no longer, so all new decals and emblems will be added.
A new grille and headlight trim will also be added.

The suspension will be completely gutted. I'm going to add all new tubular arms, new bushings, ball joints and new shorter springs.

The steering will also be completely gutted. I'm going to either replace the pitman, idler, drag and tie rods, or install a new chrome rack and pinion- still deciding.

The biggest changes will occur under the hood. As most of you already know I have a completely re-machined GM350 out of a 64 vette - although it's a 1971 engine. Don't worry, the original 327 will be stored for safe keeping. On the top end the 350 will get a new chrome edelbrock intake and carb. I'm going to add all new chrome hedman headers, a new chrome alternator, new msd ignition and distributor. Pretty much I plan on amping up the old beast and dressing her clean. I'm also changing the radiator to an aluminum polished type. I may also add other aluminum accent pieces over the firewall and inner wheel wells.

So that's the plan! Comments welcome.

More to come.....

Sounds like a good plan to me. I'm going through the same process with my '68 as well. Good luck and post some pics as work progresses.

- John

Ok, here is what I'm working with....


https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_XjxZMI9ha_w/TIlccCW8SUI/AAAAAAAAAks/Zy_yN6_O_98/s720/8503_int_driverside_old.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_XjxZMI9ha_w/TIlBES33SnI/AAAAAAAAAkE/9sZSxeO-PxE/s640/IMG00041-20100727-1120.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_XjxZMI9ha_w/TIlBEfyufXI/AAAAAAAAAkI/zE1M_4cDsnM/s640/IMG00042-20100727-1120.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_XjxZMI9ha_w/TIlBEqRoyyI/AAAAAAAAAkM/_Uws3jyovBo/s640/IMG00044-20100727-1124.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_XjxZMI9ha_w/TIlcaCMZywI/AAAAAAAAAkU/c1RfUihi1XY/s720/8494_Interior_old.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_XjxZMI9ha_w/TIlcaX2yeGI/AAAAAAAAAkY/kP4ZUiYMl-Q/s720/8495_Int_rear_old.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_XjxZMI9ha_w/TIlcakx6oDI/AAAAAAAAAkc/HPLTxbdwfJA/s720/8496_Int_rear1_old.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_XjxZMI9ha_w/TIlcblgk4yI/AAAAAAAAAko/FGiUmAnj_os/s720/8499_RUST_rearwindow_old.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_XjxZMI9ha_w/TIlccQWSc-I/AAAAAAAAAkw/7B0cSEyv31o/s720/8505_body_weatherstrip_old.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_XjxZMI9ha_w/TIlcdq2tBQI/AAAAAAAAAlA/voPln82kSOY/s720/8521_int_centerconsole_old.jpg

more....


https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_XjxZMI9ha_w/TIlceI8yzmI/AAAAAAAAAlE/ygZW9L-XB1w/s720/8524_int_driverdoor_old.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_XjxZMI9ha_w/TIlceQxC_4I/AAAAAAAAAlI/gtCJsyn0roI/s720/8526_RUST_Trunkfloor_old.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_XjxZMI9ha_w/TIlciMV03VI/AAAAAAAAAlk/nkRgnrq6T4Y/s720/8570_body_grille_old.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_XjxZMI9ha_w/TIlci35ltfI/AAAAAAAAAlw/8YlyyYOyJA0/8555_body_TAG.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_XjxZMI9ha_w/TPhOQZhDiNI/AAAAAAAAAmE/yB4dgvOVALo/s720/tie_rod.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_XjxZMI9ha_w/TRANOYg78AI/AAAAAAAAAms/4L0YhMBvemg/DSC00519.JPG

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_XjxZMI9ha_w/TTO3J2BhBoI/AAAAAAAAAnY/J1QcYi10hLk/8843-8844_Upper_A-arm_bushing_compare.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_XjxZMI9ha_w/TX1TS6Dd-7I/AAAAAAAAAoQ/sistpeVIwtY/s512/Cowl_panel_rust.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_XjxZMI9ha_w/TIlAmi_GCwI/AAAAAAAAAj8/eeJIUTn8IDg/old.jpg

Wow, some serious work there. That rear window channel looks nasty.
At least you know where your weekends will be spent for the next little while.

I'll bet it comes out great !!! Keep the pictures coming.

It's called 'patina' and lots of it.
A good project for starters and a good character builder.
It will be nice to read of the journey, maybe blog it here within the site?
I do like the stance, level and low.
Does she have a name?

nice build
shes got alot of potential
great platform to work with!

Bushings are overrated, and I like the seats the way they are. They have that slightly broken in look.

Should be a fun build, and sounds like you've got a good plan. Do it once, and do it right.

A few more.....


Headliner

http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_XjxZMI9ha_w/TIlcbCyRM1I/AAAAAAAAAkg/jTA8H7og3lQ/s1024/8497_int_headliner_old.jpg

Headliner

http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_XjxZMI9ha_w/TIlcbTFq2CI/AAAAAAAAAkk/EHjTulp-gcU/s1024/8498_int_headliner1_old.jpg

Interior driver seat

http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_XjxZMI9ha_w/TIlcc7yq8GI/AAAAAAAAAk0/oMeREMWIAoA/s1024/8507_int_driverseat_old.jpg

Interior dash

http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_XjxZMI9ha_w/TIlcdD66tZI/AAAAAAAAAk4/UyCA6ejCYKo/s1024/8512_int_dashconsole_old.jpg

Trunk

http://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_XjxZMI9ha_w/TIlcehrSj8I/AAAAAAAAAlM/zwmwBjk1xQo/s1024/8527_RUST_trunkfloor1_old.jpg

Brakes

http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_XjxZMI9ha_w/TK6LwgZWmdI/AAAAAAAAAl4/AsjNfjiNVek/s1024/hub_pic1.jpg

Leaking plugs

http://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_XjxZMI9ha_w/TPqYD6pU1qI/AAAAAAAAAmQ/boDrChktZVs/s1024/sparkplugHole.jpg

Original frame

http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_XjxZMI9ha_w/TWGVxQGI17I/AAAAAAAAAoA/Y-xe6OhWmII/s1024/8892_sub_frame.jpg

For those who want to see all the pictures you can visit:

https://picasaweb.google.com/103297251813264855195/1968CamaroBEFORERESTORATION

Some of the photos are of the car in progress. I will submit more posts of everything I did to date over the next few days.

Innovative! Safety pins and sun visors to hold up a falling headliner.......
When replacing the headliner, label/number the rods as to position in the roof, front #1 to rear #5 , and the holes they are inserted into in the roof structure. Very important. Take pictures of each rod end in its hole and label accordingly.

Thanks Everett, I will remember that when I remove the headliner. Do you have any suggestions for removing undercoating?

Here is the work I'm doing on the undercarriage, as you can see the gunk is coated on.

Before
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_XjxZMI9ha_w/TdXbSMitl_I/AAAAAAAABBM/0MFAa3bobkA/s640/1000000206.JPG
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_XjxZMI9ha_w/TdXa0p5VaCI/AAAAAAAABAg/aNFUVRcRFks/s640/1000000208.JPG
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_XjxZMI9ha_w/TdXbbIFM6JI/AAAAAAAABBU/zf1Ou6bv0tk/s640/1000000212.JPG
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_XjxZMI9ha_w/TdXaW6TOPCI/AAAAAAAAA_4/tcdRWcUXB54/s640/1000000205.JPG
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_XjxZMI9ha_w/TdXbr_oSOMI/AAAAAAAABBs/5NxbgRu37wk/s640/1000000214.JPG



During
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_XjxZMI9ha_w/TdXcZFweEcI/AAAAAAAABC8/EP_7C9TeFNk/s640/1000000219.JPG
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_XjxZMI9ha_w/TdXcyRot50I/AAAAAAAABDg/sHwwCV2tPqQ/s640/1000000222.JPG
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_XjxZMI9ha_w/TdXci3tSI3I/AAAAAAAABDE/RpTEiGV1JtA/s640/1000000220.JPG
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_XjxZMI9ha_w/TdXdMDUcWBI/AAAAAAAABEA/_sBVMEHLY00/s640/1000000225.JPG

I haven't started on the trunk yet. I need to finish removing the grease and undercoating to assess the rust damage to the floorpans before I begin my patchwork.

The old fashion method of removing undercoating is a propane torch and scraper - heat, scrape, repeat.

Great thread. I'll be following this one!

Ok, a little background before I dive into why I started doing everything in the wrong order.

When I bought the car in August of last year I had to sell my daily driver to pay for it. Earlier in the year I also bought a brand new Harley. I figured I would use the bike as my daily driver and slowly fix up the car.

There were a few problems with this; one was that I lived in an apartment complex that wouldn't let me work on the car, two it's hard to carry golf clubs on a bike, and three I didn't want to ride in the rain.

I soon realized that I needed a functional car that I could use daily if necessary. As you could see from the pictures the car was far from functional.

New plan! The good news was that the engine compression was good overall...little low in 2...

(Tested dry)
1 - 170, 2 - 155
3 - 170, 4 - 175
5 - 160, 6 - 180
7 - 160, 8 - 180

See thread:
http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=185214

...Knowing this gave me confidence to begin making the car at minimum drivable. So, the first thing I did was bought all new interior. I bought the carpet, vinyl upholstery (never liked the houndstooth), new foam, new headliner, new sail panels, new pillar post, new heat barriers, and a brand new steering wheel.

I also ordered new torque thrust 2 rims and new tires. In addition I bought a new 2 row aluminum radiator, and thermostat for good measure.

The radiator was probably the most challenging obstacle to overcome as I had to drain the coolant, deal with the oil cooling lines and dispose of the old radiator (remember I lived in a high rise apartment at this time).

It's kind of hard to see, but I got it in without much trouble:

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_XjxZMI9ha_w/TI1KQg4u2TI/AAAAAAAAAHw/gY05bXpo6Cg/s720/8609_engine_radiator_new.jpg


I then tackled the interior. Having never done interior before I thought how tough could it be? TOUGH!!! - Hog rings SUCK! The first thing I did was remove the passenger seat and remove the old houndstooth. I figured I'd start with the passenger seat so that I could still drive the car if needed.

Once I took the seat apart, literally snapping, bending, tweaking, turning, breaking about 100 hog rings, I realized that both of the back posts were broken and would need to be welded.

After having someone weld them (again apartment) I began with the reconditioning. I used a wire brush and scraped away most of the rust, luckily it wasn't pitted. I then sprayed some rustoleum rust neutralizer on it and let it dry. I applied a primer coat and then two coats of gloss black. Once it was ready to handle I installed the vinyl base that replaces the burlap, then the new foam and finally the new vinyl covers. I probably went through 100 hog rings and two coat hangers per seat. The new hog ring installation was hard, but the removal of the old ones was 4x harder. The rear bench was even worse, 200+ for the entire bench. Suffice to say my carpal tunnel was on full assault.

I then removed the driver seat and rear bench and did the same with them. Imagine me in an elevator carrying a nasty car seat up 8 floors, it did provide for some interesting conversation.

The driver bucket frame posts were broken as well so I had them welded. I decided to use the original seat emblems to give the interior a little character. I don't plan on painting or reconditioning them at all!!!

Here are a few great videos on how to install the bucket seat & rear bench upholstery. These were the methods I used and they worked great.

Bucket:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OCslIWlZ1d0&feature=related

Rear Bench:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y9qllpW7yWI&feature=related


Once completed I installed the seats and the difference was amazing:

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_XjxZMI9ha_w/TI1SVF-LAWI/AAAAAAAAAIQ/C7JPGPN3I2A/s1024/BEFORE_AFTER5.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_XjxZMI9ha_w/TI1SUpIqLmI/AAAAAAAAAII/VNCNJd-0mko/s1024/BEFORE_AFTER4.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_XjxZMI9ha_w/TI1SUBTvPJI/AAAAAAAAAIA/fn77nkiQn38/s1024/BEFORE_AFTER3.jpg

All in all material costs minus the foam and upholstery ran about $200, which included replacement vinyl for the burlap, new chrome hardware, hog rings, rear bench padding and wire. I enjoyed it, but hope I never have to do it again - the hog ring part anyways!

Carpet removal and installation in the next installment.....

WOW! I'd be proud of those seats. Great job! :beers:

I too was doing things backwards on mine. I wanted to enjoy it while working on it. I can't say that anymore... in pieces now!

A few more of the bucket and bench seats inside...

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_XjxZMI9ha_w/Tdhtc_awtyI/AAAAAAAABHs/W6TayKyLd7E/s640/1000000236.JPG

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_XjxZMI9ha_w/TdhtRZTf2NI/AAAAAAAABHk/5FkUY-XYlQk/s640/1000000233.JPG

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_XjxZMI9ha_w/Tdhs9K3EKoI/AAAAAAAABHM/QD4q6FbMQYA/s640/1000000228.JPG

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_XjxZMI9ha_w/TdhszqMGLiI/AAAAAAAABHA/JGLx-rxUOEA/s640/1000000227.JPG

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_XjxZMI9ha_w/TdhtovnHM6I/AAAAAAAABH8/Ck9RCvzLF5A/s640/1000000238.JPG

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_XjxZMI9ha_w/TdhtzfvnuZI/AAAAAAAABIM/CGUyfNvqFDY/s640/1000000239.JPG

Worked on removing more of the undercoating underneath the rear driver side seat. I used an emboss gun - Everett recommended heat and I thought I would try it, worked very well. The good thing was that there was dirt on the undercoating, and as soon as I noticed black bleeding through I started scraping.

I used two or three different chisels, a power drill with a wire polishing head (coarse), then finished it off with a wire brush....lots more to go but its getting there. Thanks Everett!

Before & After

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_XjxZMI9ha_w/Tdl3fQGTOOI/AAAAAAAABL4/q_81CbiodSI/s1024/undercoating_BandA.jpg


Process:

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_XjxZMI9ha_w/Tdlnv100a6I/AAAAAAAABI8/XkBiow1mcaE/s640/1000000243.JPG


After:

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_XjxZMI9ha_w/Tdln4EKkxLI/AAAAAAAABJE/kf8jdGezZsE/s640/1000000246.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_XjxZMI9ha_w/Tdln_bPIimI/AAAAAAAABJQ/E6Vhcn-Psj4/s640/1000000247.JPG

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_XjxZMI9ha_w/TdloG-k0YCI/AAAAAAAABJc/PODsq4bvh1w/s640/1000000248.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_XjxZMI9ha_w/TdloVfhw05I/AAAAAAAABJs/YYzVU7_ASM0/s640/1000000250.JPG

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_XjxZMI9ha_w/TdlodN6Qk0I/AAAAAAAABJ4/I_h4hBo_xw8/s640/1000000251.JPG

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_XjxZMI9ha_w/Tdlol2K1icI/AAAAAAAABKM/U5cMjCGUUbk/s512/1000000252.JPG

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_XjxZMI9ha_w/Tdlo2yNXDZI/AAAAAAAABKc/HkxvbO_5CE4/s640/1000000254.JPG

I read somewhere that in 68 GM used multi leaf springs, but mine are mono, is this right?

Sure you could have monos in 69 also on low performance cars.

Nice project, you have the correct year car~
lo-po 68 Camaro had mono leaf.

check out my thread. Fixin to get busy. If I can be of assistance, please let me know.
My 327 could become a 4BBl deal with a head and intake swap or I could install a later 1-pc maiun 350 with 68 heads and intake

Good to know. I have a 210hp 327, the rear is a 10 bolt 2.73 ratio. I'm thinking I should upgrade to multi leafs as I'm putting a 350 in with a new 12 bolt rearend, does this make sense? Any suggestions?

Yup, the jc Whitney 3 leaves ride and drive much better than the monos so it's a no brainer for me. The Hotchkis are even better. No experience with 4 or 5 leafs so others can advise on those.

Looks sweet, someday I'm going to get a California car.

Alright back to the story...

The next thing I did after the seats was address a concern I noticed on the inner left tie rod, apparently the ball joint had loosened and it was causing excessive play in the steering.

OLD:
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Xxotgq8B7TQ/TPhOQZhDiNI/AAAAAAAAAmE/drEiGpMOlro/s720/tie_rod.jpg

NEW:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-z-2lHb078ss/TPsFyolpd3I/AAAAAAAAAKg/TdZriI5QcGE/s912/new_tie_rods_and_sleeve.jpg


While installing the new inner and outter tie rods I kept looking up at the pitman arm and it really started to bug me...so I bought a new one, but then I thought I might as well by a new idler arm as well, and you know what while I'm at it I might as well change the right side tie rods just to balance out the front end (imaginative). So the entire front steering, minus the drag bar, was replaced.


https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-cu2NDEu8Y9s/TPxxL9eQPdI/AAAAAAAAAKs/Eb4GYtNfndw/s720/idler_tierod_sleeve.jpg


I then drove the car down to Monterey for its first true test and it held up like a champ, although on the way home the car started to shake and shimmy really bad. I thought maybe the rim was loose or the tie rod sleeve had moved. After crawling under the car on the side of the freeway everything looked fine. I started her up and slowly merged back on the freeway and the shimmy was gone.

A couple weeks later I was driving home from work when it started to rain like cats and dogs. I noticed a little drip at the top of the windshield, then another and another. By the time I got home the dash was fairly wet. I then opened the trunk and noticed a small pool that was slowly draining through the rust holes - glad I didn't change the trunk yet :-).

The water was coming from the rear window that was completely rotted out. I took the car to the local resto shop and said, please fix my leak. After removing the rear window here is what they found...


https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-_1Vt_S5NxzI/TRANNvtf37I/AAAAAAAAAmg/NLk9rxVefbc/DSC00516.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-2QRGEd3GmFo/TRANNVHZcSI/AAAAAAAAAmc/lQoNWKshwuA/DSC00515.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-G7rT5odCTZM/TRANNBHGO7I/AAAAAAAAAmY/_9VtjZCOlXw/DSC00514.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-bn-bsnaaQMA/TRANOLquNwI/AAAAAAAAAmk/HcHbYiwSKps/DSC00517.JPG

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-a23ldiWv7O8/TRANOMvXF4I/AAAAAAAAAmo/vlC4kb4Jfvk/DSC00518.JPG

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-DUo83Vea4Ek/TRANOYg78AI/AAAAAAAAAms/Qr1R4imGhtE/DSC00519.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-wbOJ9ElJLsY/TRANOgbQHRI/AAAAAAAAAmw/WDskindWHV0/DSC00520.JPG


As you can see it was not very pretty. I actually new about this when I bought the car, it was kinda hard to miss. The pictures above mind you are only missing a rear window - no metal has been removed at this point.

The resto shop began by removing the rear deck lid and cleaning all the rot around the the window.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-zsgP6MzvUZg/TRANXaP_aPI/AAAAAAAAAMw/MDxmGX2gtxU/DSC00524.JPG

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-j-4w_O0JHZE/TRANXm86R0I/AAAAAAAAAM0/_xHW7gqw49I/DSC00525.JPG

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-WKLfe18gOl4/TRANX3M-7lI/AAAAAAAAAM4/7S9-z66sUKY/DSC00526.JPG

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-jL2yMJqlPkw/TRANYDKF1lI/AAAAAAAAAM8/j9zgw-irbTQ/DSC00527.JPG

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Rk9tns5l6yA/TRANYYJHmoI/AAAAAAAAANA/HQzJKi8T1E8/DSC00528.JPG



They then installed the new deck lid....



https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-3NBm1gI8WPs/TRANYhdtTtI/AAAAAAAAANE/_i-Ai90XFxU/DSC00529.JPG

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-nETLE1stsw0/TRANYobnkoI/AAAAAAAAANI/xk-ji8GBJLM/DSC00530.JPG


Then they continued to fix the window edges...


https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-7QQaytsBJXI/TRANY-PNpDI/AAAAAAAAANM/muXHZbDFS8Y/DSC00531.JPG

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-4mGrvED3Alo/TRANZGzbdyI/AAAAAAAAANQ/imolUKiEGQM/DSC00532.JPG


Sanded and primed...

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-suJy_BfeZw8/TRANZMTAEoI/AAAAAAAAANU/7lJPsCEr9S0/DSC00533.JPG

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Y5rhlBdGX4w/TRANZvlzpOI/AAAAAAAAANY/Echu_MBmXF4/DSC00534.JPG


Then they installed the new inner panel...


https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-CGgfu-Aog7A/TRANZ0tso_I/AAAAAAAAANc/YoSTkZ4RRtA/DSC00535.JPG


Then the glass with the trim polished...

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Y7pFSEwQE8I/TRGiTJTPb1I/AAAAAAAAAN4/TyIiKWjrXVU/s720/rear_deck_1.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-_5TyBxar0j4/TRGiTuJa0xI/AAAAAAAAAN8/LL_ERE5rHpk/s720/rear_deck_inside.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-yvw-MvYkRLw/TRGiTz8Rr6I/AAAAAAAAAOA/LRUZvXK0B-4/s720/rear_deck_inside2.jpg


And walla, the rear window was finally sealed. Now when I replace the trunk floor I wont have to worry about it rotting out.

:beers:

The next set of posts will cronical the complete teardown, and the beginnings of the frame off resto the car is now undergoing.

Leaking oil saved a lot of floor pans!! The bushing mounts arent rusted out!!! Solid builder IMO.

Ramien, great progress so far, looking good.
Address the problems first, then upgrade later.
How much did the steering improve when you replaced all of the parts, minus the drag link?
Also, I forgot to look, but is this a power steering car? Did you order the steering pieces locally, or online, also, what are the brands of the steering parts?
Thanks in advance.

Nice job, all the way around.
You're welcome.

Ramien, great progress so far, looking good.
Address the problems first, then upgrade later.
How much did the steering improve when you replaced all of the parts, minus the drag link?
Also, I forgot to look, but is this a power steering car? Did you order the steering pieces locally, or online, also, what are the brands of the steering parts?
Thanks in advance.

The steering improved slightly. The play in the wheel noticeably tightened up. Also, before the change whenever i'd hit a crease in the pavement the car would follow the crease, after the change it took a much larger crease to change the cars direciton.

The parts were ordered from Ground Up (http://www.ss396.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=camaro6769&Product_Code=DIX-69) - they call them OEM parts.

The steering is power, I only ordered a new pitman, the pump and column were not changed.

I order my parts through 5 main sources,

Local:
Steves Camaro (San Francisco)
http://www.stevescamaroparts.com/

GM Sports Salvage (San Jose)
http://www.gmsportssalvage.com/

Online:
Classic Industries OER parts
http://www.classicindustries.com/

Ground Up
http://www.ss396.com

Ricks Camaros (Ecklers)
http://www.rickscamaros.com/

I've always wanted to try Year One (http://www.yearone.com) but I have yet to use them. I hear good things about them. Maybe if I ever decide to buy a dynacorn shell I'll try them.

I also use JEGS and SUMMIT RACING for tools and engine parts.

ok, back to the story...

Once I got the car back from the resto shop I was about to take the engine out and tackle a rebuild, but my friend who was restoring his 64 vette decided to five me his non-matching 350 engine - he went out and bought a matching 64 327. So, I decided to rebuild the 350 and crate my matching 327 for later.

Here are a few pictures of his his project with his fresh rebuild...

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-VzvbHSBBNA4/TdMhx3GreKI/AAAAAAAAA3o/Hb-LGJa-uwg/s640/11%2525206%25253A32%25253A51%252520PM.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-L7d1Tr1Kiy8/TdMhFtLQOsI/AAAAAAAAA3Y/kCXjoZUeJgk/s640/11%2525206%25253A29%25253A53%252520PM.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-NkVF1oGW0P8/TdMhR1NH5aI/AAAAAAAAA3c/n-nhFJBcQSw/s640/11%2525206%25253A30%25253A41%252520PM.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-9utHZbNwEF8/TdMiErfmwYI/AAAAAAAAA34/B_Eks_RHaH4/s640/11%2525206%25253A34%25253A05%252520PM.jpg


Once he gave the engine I almost immediately starting tearing it apart and getting it ready for machining. I then took the engine down to a few shops, the first one wanted $4k+ (way too much for me to justify), the second shop wanted $1500 - more along my price range. The shop came recommended by the local camaro club so I used them, but I soon realized that the work wasn't very good. When I installed the new main bearings I discovered uneven rub...as though the block wasn't line honed.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-5FLcMPTddM8/TWXO1o5bd8I/AAAAAAAAAR4/lZbgLJO8kl8/s512/all_bearings.jpg

The shop said it was ok, but you guys said it wasn't and I decided to take the block elsewhere to have it fixed. I lost confidence in the shop.

The third shop came recommended but this time by a local speed shop, not a car club. The shop walked me through every single detail, all of the tolerances and process - something the first and second shop never took the time to do. $1600 later I finally got the block and heads I felt comfortable installing - but this would have to wait.

I decided to remove and replace the left front fender. Whoever owned the car before me was in an accident and the body work that was done was horrid. After digging into the fenders I also noticed a great deal of rust on the inner wheel well and inner fender - both sides. So, I decided to remove and replace both left and right fenders.

Once I removed the fenders I realized how easy it would be to remove the engine - seeing as I was going to put the rebuilt 350 in anyway, so I began removing the engine components and front end electrical. I also took out the springs because I planned on changing the A-arms to tubular style. I figured it would be easier with the weight of the engine still there. I used the jack, loosen and lower method - it's not that dangerous, you just need to use common sense.


https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-xGaK5lV-rIM/TTO3H7PaIuI/AAAAAAAAAm4/GsCX2InW_Eo/s720/A-arm_removal.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-6D-tiitwlkE/TTO3IdXcaGI/AAAAAAAAAnA/XenkDdrDRN8/s720/8835_driver_side_A-arm.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-yd-hcsyRn8g/TTO3IAMzR9I/AAAAAAAAAm8/pgJC9nc2WDc/s720/8834_new_brakes.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-l4quinDJv3A/TTO3JFiLV0I/AAAAAAAAAnM/ThkPYx__o18/s512/8838_Passenger_side_A-arm.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-umxlLBdsKeE/TTO3I1UpWrI/AAAAAAAAAnI/0nbwjFSWxw0/s720/8837_radiator_support.jpg

A few more pictures...

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-uS_Tf4FkICA/TTO3Jm1nDxI/AAAAAAAAAnU/9Znm8YyUjlE/s512/8841_old_shock_spring.jpg



And one of the reasons why I decided to go tubular...



https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-LOlrOmeQgJw/TTO3J2BhBoI/AAAAAAAAAnY/P9R9mQX8BBY/8843-8844_Upper_A-arm_bushing_compare.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ynltSlaj8Q8/TTO3KETrI2I/AAAAAAAAAng/atgqKOu6dZE/s512/8849_A-Arms.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ICgAEFztAdI/TTO3KRF256I/AAAAAAAAAnk/Li8havewdgQ/s720/8850_Upper_A-Arms.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-5ogMMpfLWOU/TTO3Khn4Z0I/AAAAAAAAAno/RMqD2XEeBEk/s512/8851_Upper-A-arm_driverside.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-UpbkPaF60a8/TTO3K8CiM-I/AAAAAAAAAns/2zPmz7B-OGk/s720/8855_Lower_A-arm_driverside.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-NEzPnsf_qL4/TTO3LDRhOGI/AAAAAAAAAnw/vb0TrQK8MZY/s720/8857_Lower-A-arm_passengerside.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-av9YWDpJHjs/TTO3LU0EliI/AAAAAAAAAn0/GQBydF_p9io/s720/8858_Lower-A-arm_passengerside_closeup.jpg




Once the front end was taken off and the engine was removed, here is what I was left with...


https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-S298ZgxdoNc/TUX3UMjfppI/AAAAAAAAAn4/BsY37amHKAo/s720/IMG_8877.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-8tDKlfe-Gfk/TUX3Uaq5ZII/AAAAAAAAAn8/vsBABA8sii4/s720/IMG_8881.jpg

I just pulled those same front shocks out of mine. I'm curious if anyone would weigh in on whether they were original or what in particular they were.

Hotchkis/Bilsteins are going back in on mine.

Are you going tubular upper and lower? I went with just the upper and had the stock lowers powdercoated and installed the del-u-lum bushings. I'm cheap! lol

Are you going tubular upper and lower? I went with just the upper and had the stock lowers powdercoated and installed the del-u-lum bushings. I'm cheap! lol


I'm going tubular upper and lower. I sold the original a-arms already, I didn't want to change my mind. The new tubs come with bushings already installed. I have no clue what they are, the arms were $350 on eBay, they are cheap jap repros. I had a friend inspect the welds and he said they are great, so I feel comfortable with them....next time I'll go USA made just to be safe.

I just pulled those same front shocks out of mine. I'm curious if anyone would weigh in on whether they were original or what in particular they were.

Hotchkis/Bilsteins are going back in on mine.

I was going to ask someone, I didn't know if they were original either. I bought edelbrocks for the rears and I decided to do the same on the front.

I was practicing my spot welding for the floor pans, do these look good to you guys? Also, do I need to weld the entire panel along where the new pan meets the old floor, or will spot welds be enough? I plan on 2 inch spacing.

Thanks,



http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-zXxQza2m7IE/TewIWD3YFVI/AAAAAAAABic/APB_PP6TOL0/s1024/1000000386.JPG

http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Zy9WlgLupoc/TewINQwvkLI/AAAAAAAABiU/S6rpK7ihkiU/s1024/1000000385.JPG

Those look great. I did a lap weld when I put my pans in. So the entire pan was welded. The only spot welding I did was on the rockers. Seam sealer, seam sealer!

I just pulled those same front shocks out of mine. I'm curious if anyone would weigh in on whether they were original or what in particular they were.

Hotchkis/Bilsteins are going back in on mine.

I think I pulled the same shocks from mine as well. They were MonroMatic 2132 5D79.

Those look great. I did a lap weld when I put my pans in. So the entire pan was welded. The only spot welding I did was on the rockers. Seam sealer, seam sealer!

Rob, did you weld the top and bottom or just one side?

Once I pulled the engine and tranny out I inspected the frame and undercarriage. Aside from the undercoating and some dirt on the frame it really was in pretty decent shape...however pretty decent is not great and so I decided to have it media blasted and powdercoated. Why not right, I've come this far?

Before:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-yccrbgynxEY/TWGVxQGI17I/AAAAAAAAAoA/E1ygC8C25P8/s720/8892_sub_frame.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Mf36pVoRczc/TWGVx0R4iuI/AAAAAAAAAoE/l2S6l7XXwjE/s720/8899_Sub_Frame_1.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-d80JlTdMb80/TWGVyw8NwII/AAAAAAAAAoI/4r7kbpIQZyM/s720/8893_sub_frame2.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-CVlOMxzzwJc/TWGVzVe68AI/AAAAAAAAAoM/Zy30Vf0Fi6A/s720/8900_sub_frame_3.jpg



...and after:



https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-vOb52ZuUKpk/TY-mlGwKtUI/AAAAAAAAAbk/b8_VrecwOEI/s640/9002_Subframe.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Ow77ojFJ6dM/TY-mkJeNDbI/AAAAAAAAAbE/k6cjwi1iFYA/s512/9021_Subframe.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-jmQG7kw-Nqg/TY-mkErv2YI/AAAAAAAAAbI/1kmc_Tk24ZA/s720/9019_Subframe.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-o_5TL2x9f90/TY-mkK_3w0I/AAAAAAAAAbM/dAVeopFTEAs/s720/9017_Subframe.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-oUIic9yBjEc/TY-mkej_NuI/AAAAAAAAAbQ/4rxyPQCifSk/s720/9014_Subframe.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Vh43uGA3Tuw/TY-mlLrvOII/AAAAAAAAAbg/9XU9fJguCUw/s720/9005_Subframe.jpg


As you can see it wasn't even close at the end...its even better than brand new!!!

Wow, that looks gorgeous. BTW, my sub frame looked just like yours when I cleaned mine. The only difference is I scraped and scrubbed mine.
Yours came out looking great. Love the finish on that.

Nice, subframe looks awesome!

The company that did the work on the subrame is Spray Tech in Santa Clara, California http://www.spraytechnology.net/home.

The owners name is Joe and his team does great work. For $400 they removed the mounts, sway bar, tranny crossmember, all the screws, blasted everything inside and out, powder coated everything to a mirror finish, cleaned all the screw threads, and even threw in my buddys half shaft as part of the price. Anytime I need blasting and powdercoating of a large part, they are going to be my shop of choice.

I highly recommend this shop if you live in the bay area.

Story time...

Once i got the frame out I began inspecting the undercarriage and upper cowl area. I scraped some of the sludge off from under the passenger pan and noticed a bunch of pinhole size thru holes...

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-ggqmM0TR5MU/TX56i_THmdI/AAAAAAAAATU/SPg566wKpqw/s720/undercarriage_grit.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-eMVAbz9AmsI/TX7Q1myK2FI/AAAAAAAAATc/8uKUw4AZ9es/s720/undercarriage_rust_spots.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Q_P2YW0Omek/TX7Q8dxzhYI/AAAAAAAAATg/JYXp78g5RmA/s720/undercarriage_rust_spots_circled.jpg

I also noticed that the inside of the passenger kick panel was pitted rather well. I decided to replace the floor pans and kick panel rather than using bondo to cover it up - hey I'd know and it wouldn't sit well. So I bought two new repair pans and one kick panel from GroundUp ($79/$79/$59). The pans arrived with some lightly dusted rust areas - I guess this is normal? A quick 80 grit wheel cleaned it right up.

The center channel was completely rust and pit free, so its staying. The seat mount plates are also in good condition along with the rear seat wells so they will all stay or be re-used.

I knew a portion of the lower windshield was rotted out in one area, but I didn't know to what extent. When I was under the car I noticed the left outer cowl near the bottom was rotted...

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-pFcahJ02u98/TX1TSx5NPiI/AAAAAAAAAoU/-aMN0loSZBY/s512/Cowl_panel.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-7Hj7eZDy2r0/TX1TS6Dd-7I/AAAAAAAAAoQ/F8q7HPzT54A/s512/Cowl_panel_rust.jpg

So I decided to open up the cowl and explore. After doing some research I discovered that a blair bit with an air hammer would be the best way to remove the spot welds holding these pieces in. I found a dealer called east bay color for the bit and bought the air hammer from Lowes. The bits were about $20 and the air hammer was $18 on sale - sweet!

Then I began going at it....

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-rphIPSndjfA/TYAfZeAiVgI/AAAAAAAAATs/AEHMvMjSTQM/s512/8989_outer_cowl_air_hammer.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-KENjqK55t9M/TYAfZ04s-8I/AAAAAAAAATw/k0zRBTowuNc/s720/8987_blair_bit_hole.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-jwH5S0y71OQ/TYAfZ5j0EGI/AAAAAAAAAT0/84Qw_ecnuug/s512/8985_outer_cowl_cut_open.jpg


Once opened it was clear to see what was causing the problem, the drain holes in the bottom cowl were completely plugged causing dirt, pine needles, and whatever else to build up inside the outer cowl. I pulled about a grocery bag full of junk out of the lower cowl. The junk was causing the upper cowl channels to back up and pool with water thus causing this....


https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-nV44fZY9YZY/TYGY1xUHyYI/AAAAAAAAAUA/j7RA1rPJN5U/s640/9000_inner_cowl_rust.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-BNiJKboicNY/TYGY2vcb0LI/AAAAAAAAAUI/5dahCKMJhKQ/s720/8997_upper_cowl_rot.jpg


Argh, this is turning into a big project. At this point I still didn't know exactly what I needed to fix under the windshield. More probing was needed....

Some more of the rot...

http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-5LeIJZpJZmQ/TafA-UKLT_I/AAAAAAAAAfM/s0RRA_ApRDI/s1024/9248_Driver_cowl_box.jpg

http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-DqUeJ5Z5z1E/TafA-xGxaXI/AAAAAAAAAfY/WMc-xj5o1Zo/s1024/9253_Cowl_seams.jpg

http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-XGf_EfubFG8/TafA-aG4gbI/AAAAAAAAAfU/4pfcWMxYSCw/s1024/9247_Firewall_cowl.jpg



Once I had the outer cowl panel off I decided to inspect the upper cowl underneath the dash pad. Here is what I found...


http://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-0i858aJoZgk/TafA-WV1tGI/AAAAAAAAAfQ/TVuB_fpuu-Y/s1024/9251_Upper_cowl_rust.jpg

http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-rfq6h1VLvWU/TafA_XQjePI/AAAAAAAAAfk/q5nFg7HU2-k/s1024/9256_Upper_cowl_removal.jpg




So, I decided to remove and replace the entire upper cowl...


http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-pA4quB3CWNo/TbICPMxscXI/AAAAAAAAAw4/F-Q5-ePqkLg/s1024/IMG_9313_Upper_Cowl.jpg

http://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-gQbUb8jSapQ/TbICMwr4e6I/AAAAAAAAAwU/m0rdA4dP6Fg/s1024/IMG_9315_upper_cowl.jpg



Here is a diagram of how I removed the outer cowl...

http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-RQVa2tCgVug/TbICMCq82CI/AAAAAAAAAwI/iGT7ODFx9VY/s1024/Right_Cowl_diagram_spots.jpg



And here is the new upper and outer cowls test fitted...

http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-wvuIZtjxi-o/TbICF9xDDEI/AAAAAAAAAuc/5MzUPLI_4nI/s1024/IMG_9346_complete_cowl_mock.jpg

http://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-5a6AC6ut-hI/TbICFuWpM7I/AAAAAAAAAuQ/AYPH7JvRjOc/s1024/IMG_9349_complete_cowl_mock.jpg


Looking good, but I have yet to install the cowls...the next post should bring this build current so you can see where exactly I am.

Excellent write up! I hope I never have to get that deep into a Camaro but if I do I'll be using your thread as a how-to.


Sent from my iPhone using Autoguide

That looks great! My son and I are doing the same repair on his 69. Did you have to support the A pillars or fire wall and what did you use for referance measurements. We have all the parts but are a little apprehensive to start cutting all the structural components.

That looks great! My son and I are doing the same repair on his 69. Did you have to support the A pillars or fire wall and what did you use for referance measurements. We have all the parts but are a little apprehensive to start cutting all the structural components.

Thanks!

I did not support the pillars with anything. I guess I could have used a beam from one side to the other, but I didn't. I felt the connection was already strong enough. I further confirmed this when I stuck the body on the rotisserie without the upper cowl or any support.

For the measurements I simply used the existing cowl (before removing it) and picked certain measurement points. There are 4 in the first image (3 on the cowl and 1 on the dash pad), the rest are diagramed in the second image. In the end I had marks at certain points around the upper window frame that were used to connect to points on the upper cowl.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-lgu-l3l_WcU/TfKYLgzVibI/AAAAAAAABuc/f05WLdzMkW0/s720/9334_cowl_measurements.jpg


https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-qFVcQ0arnTY/TfKYLntEEbI/AAAAAAAABuY/8X45Aaoa574/s720/9335_cowl_diagram.jpg


That's all I did to ensure I'd have everything lined back up properly. I'm sure there are other methods, but this is the one I used. As you can see I took pictures of the measurements so that I wouldn't forget - also, so I could throw the cowl away (taking up space).

So, after I test fit the cowl I decided that if I really wanted to do this right, to finish off the floorpans and trunk quicker and easier, I needed a rotisserie. I searched online for about a week but the only ones I saw were about $1200 not including shipping. Did I really want to invest this much for a one time use item?

I decided to post a wanted ad on this forum, but after a week I got no hits. I then decided to call Steves Camaro in San Francisco. Steve turned me on to a guy up the road named Joe. After calling Joe I was very pleased to learn that I could rent one of his two rotos for $30/week. This was perfect! The roto is actually called an auto twirled plus.

To install the twirler I first removed the fuel tank, then I removed the lower shock bolts, then I removed the leaf mooting plates on the axle (car was on jacks of course). I then placed a jack underneath the rear axle and removed the rear leaf mounting bolts. I then slowly lowered the axle and slid it out from the rear. I then removed the forward leaf mount plate and set the leafs a side.

I mounted the front roto on the forward body mounts, and the rear roto on the rear leaf pivot mount.

Here's what It looked like installed...

http://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-zX3ZpnS8Ofs/TdBjFQBUi3I/AAAAAAAAA1o/9L6CVYULf1E/s1024/11%204:34:41%20PM

http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-LnzEWRm9Zco/TdH3OJ-NI4I/AAAAAAAAA3A/4DNpg68ytL8/s1024/11%209:19:00%20PM

http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-uT6f2VCfdIc/TdRhh2cH6hI/AAAAAAAAA80/LoZsi19Tb3A/s1024/1000000193.JPG

http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-QWb0BFwqhVk/TdRih4OAlzI/AAAAAAAAA9Y/4Vmidj_fI0M/s1024/1000000196.JPG

http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-zdlZOa7s5_Q/TdRiwseGUII/AAAAAAAAA9o/ELmp_0-wpd8/s1024/1000000201.JPG




I was a little intimidated at first, but once I got the car mounted on the front roto I felt a little at ease, but then I realized I needed to get the car mounted on the rear roto. The rear was more difficult because I needed to raise the car much higher. I used a few 6 inch blocks of wood and put a jack on top of them. I was able to get the car raised up just enough to mount the rear roto. After it was mounted I then checked my vertical clearance and it fit perfectly in my garage. My door opener motor is mounted at 8 feet, so with this roto I can keep it low enough while twirling all the way around.

I highly recommend this tool if you plan on replacing any metal under the car.
:beers:
:thumbsup:
:hurray:

Wow this thread is getting better and better everyday! Maybe not for you, but for us watching! :yes: Better that you find it now and not after many dollars put into it.
As for the welding on the floor pans, I just welded them from the top.
Keep it up Ramien.

I'm real glad everyone is enjoying this thread, I'm actually having fun writing it. In the future I can look back and say, wow I did that. Speaking of writing...


After I got the car on the roto I started removing some of the undercoating and oil, just to see how much of the floor actually contained rust. The oil seemed to help reduce the rust damage. The oil was from blow by in the cylinder of the original 327, the previous owner never cared to fix it.

The rust wasn't as bad as I thought, the problem was that it was scattered around pretty good. Also, while the rear foot area looked good underneath, it was heavily pitted up top.

http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-ilWBnINsECQ/TdXagt_19EI/AAAAAAAABAA/0VVxEHuE4rM/s1024/1000000206.JPG

http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-N_Gf7X3sshY/TdXa0p5VaCI/AAAAAAAABAg/t3UceNWaxG8/s1024/1000000208.JPG

http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-kWx1J2aRE7Y/TdXbIrJ5SxI/AAAAAAAABBA/9OW-aH9iFSo/s1024/1000000210.JPG

http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-CIHAuMrAAU8/TdXcGxfvG5I/AAAAAAAABCg/GLljdArJZVA/s1024/1000000217.JPG

http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-iz6ce3z_hB4/TdXbr_oSOMI/AAAAAAAABBs/z55Y-0EmMz8/s1024/1000000214.JPG

http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-JXGfrh9h1Qg/TdXcZFweEcI/AAAAAAAABC8/0KzIz8RwQFY/s1024/1000000219.JPG

http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-iwyoLuVQEV8/TdXcyRot50I/AAAAAAAABDg/PW2MhooHcCE/s1024/1000000222.JPG

http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-7582GrqX8VY/TdloVfhw05I/AAAAAAAABJs/mukAltWt10Q/s1024/1000000250.JPG

http://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-p6kKrmkLDsQ/TdlodN6Qk0I/AAAAAAAABJ4/oWScDlRuepQ/s1024/1000000251.JPG



Not so bad, right?

By the way, when I pulled the driveline and rear axle out, here is what they looked like...

http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-UIzlqyhbar0/TeBGCKRkPdI/AAAAAAAABOg/VrRmTY82YwA/s1024/1000000272.JPG

http://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-OvYDpVODLU4/TeBGKea0c0I/AAAAAAAABOs/osPQd-1-bw4/s1024/1000000275.JPG




The rear axle Coding, use to be covered in oil...

http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-k1Tn5iDXnpE/TeBGTUpT0SI/AAAAAAAABO8/cHlIOS7TrTc/s1024/1000000277.JPG

http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-CV05NDpF0_A/TeBGcQO2u9I/AAAAAAAABPE/vtPB1yy9nj8/s1024/1000000279.JPG

http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-BXJKU7b7A9g/TeBGlMZAGiI/AAAAAAAABPM/2oPzeGwomVY/s1024/1000000281.JPG

Back to the floorpans, so not so bad underneath right, well how about topside...


http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-cETfajJSSnY/TfKMqTS8YbI/AAAAAAAABsg/cehpL1Isnf0/s1024/1000000455.JPG

http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ODRWQJYDqUo/TfKN33K9n5I/AAAAAAAABs0/Z9bAOvkGMFE/s1024/1000000458.JPG

http://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-oMrrg0ZqgZ4/TfKOF37kpLI/AAAAAAAABtI/oR8El2-vVNo/s1024/1000000459.JPG

http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-AQiLjS-gi-E/TemZ6H7DJKI/AAAAAAAABao/AGT_-wCF8J8/s1024/1000000341.JPG




As you can see pitting is apparent everywhere up top. Looks like I need to replace both pans, luckily the tranny channel is rust free so I don't need a complete floor. Also, the rear bench metal is rust free.

Next I will show you how I removed the seat mounts and show you even more rust....ughh.

This is a great thread. Love the details and documentation. Thanks for sharing it with us.

Thanks Sam.

Alright, so I need to remove the floors pans, but where do I start, I've never done anything like this before and I don't want to screw it up.

I was going to do some research, but I got busy and decided to just jump in. I knew the new pans did not extend up above the seat mount reinforcement, so i knew the seat mounts would have to be removed. I pulled out my cutting wheel and installed a norton 80 grit flap disk (Home Depot) and started sanding the edges to see if I could find the spot welds. I was able to find most and even ones that didn't exist ;-)

I started on the driver side first...

http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-6AbjJSes52c/TemX35UCSCI/AAAAAAAABYA/BzKIkYQOx_o/s1024/1000000328.JPG

http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-ckFaJ5VkYoM/TemYOwIvFpI/AAAAAAAABYU/cNbC6kzwHCA/s1024/1000000330.JPG

http://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Fp5WqcurQRA/TemYdjwytmI/AAAAAAAABYw/1KOJG_2e8FU/s1024/1000000331.JPG

http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-p5YBhsft1e8/TemY1nFD2mI/AAAAAAAABZI/_J6x1sNpElE/s1024/1000000334.JPG






After a little prying and pulling, a little sweat and more prying with a hand chisel, I finally got the mounting plate off...

http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-ZWSVN_LtWHs/TemZJhvEqSI/AAAAAAAABZs/vtffKeDR1oY/s1024/1000000336.JPG


...And I quickly discovered another brace underneath that is also held in with more spot welds.:mad:

At this point I had already gone through 2 Blair spot weld bits, both sides. I knew I'd need an alternative. I decided to go to Blairs website and noticed that they make even better spot weld bits, so I snagged a set. In the picture below the old bit is the small one, the new one is the larger one. As you can see the shank is bigger and the cutting head is also thicker and stronger. I also opted for their proprietary bit lube to ensure longevity.

http://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-c_ug8pZeFqY/TfLF09dwn4I/AAAAAAAABwU/pE1Uj_y09Tg/s1024/1000000461.JPG

http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-5NWfYFujOvk/TfLGQvOw05I/AAAAAAAABws/SMu_yLjl6qA/s1024/1000000464.JPG


Here is their URL...I ordered the Double sided first, but they broke very quickly, so I suggest the premium with standard pilot kit - one bit has now lasted longer than 3 of the double sided combined.


http://www.blairequipment.com/Spotweld_Cutters/Spotweld_Cutters.html


Jumping ahead slightly, here are a few diagrams I made of the spot weld locations...these locations are nearly identical on the passenger side, so once you find one side the other should be easier.

http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-o0fxjuiJjc4/TfLZ90TZImI/AAAAAAAABzE/KOXbtGfvP1I/s1024/seatpan_spot_welds_1of2.jpg


http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-wD2teA_PaBU/TfLZ82idTyI/AAAAAAAABy8/2yhNV2DJ4us/s1024/seatpan_spot_welds_2of2.jpg


Almost current....next post I promise.

I've thought long and hard about this and I've decided to name my car after my two Dogs:


This is Foxy Roxy:

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-ogUmX6P9lMg/TbIcPSEufaI/AAAAAAAAAqE/HvdwEPsQnWw/s720/Roxy2.jpg






This is Leo The Lion:

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-wKG-QZrUuPA/TbIcOTtS9MI/AAAAAAAAAp8/RNTS0yxSwqw/s512/Leo.jpg




And this is both of the cuties together:

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-VdQOuPYOaw8/TbIcOLX63WI/AAAAAAAAAp4/dl9I5Vjpl4k/s512/Leo_and_Roxy4.jpg



So, without further ado the car will be called "The Foxy Lion". The car will be painted Black with White stripes to match the dogs...I'm also going to have a custom decal made up to put on the car when I'm done so that everyone knows it's name.

:beers:

Cute dogs. Have you been drinking?

LOL...no havent been drinking, it's just been a good day!
:thumbsup:

Ok, back to the story...

After I removed the driver seat plate floor support it was time to cut out the spot welds on the subframe plate underneath.

http://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-7Qh8_rXdwzU/TemZUJdA_hI/AAAAAAAABZ0/b_b9j7IuYSc/s1024/1000000337.JPG

http://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-wLyky368CYg/TemZmblrVRI/AAAAAAAABaQ/mZ2dy8zyxLU/s1024/1000000339.JPG

http://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-iTgNfHHG_yA/TemZwCj4nTI/AAAAAAAABag/uADFW54VzBM/s1024/1000000340.JPG



As you can see in the last picture, the spot welds connecting the seat support and subframe mounting plate are little mounds on the right side on the upper portion of the subframe mounting plate. This is the value of using the Blair bit, if you are careful you can prevent from going through the bottom piece of metal. This leaves the weld material on the bottom piece in the form of a little metal mound. They can then be ground away or used as filler to re-attach the seat support (if you use the same one).

Since I was replacing the pan I didn't really care about going through the subrame mount and through the floor, so I drilled the welds on the front part of the mount all the way through. For the sides I used caution as again my replacement pan did not extend above the subframe mount. There is one hidden spot weld under the rear subframe mount plate edge on the side that attaches to the inner rocker panel that gave me fits and caused there to be a decent size hole when I tried to remove it.

Once removed I got a glimpse of what the metal underneath looked like. Not too bad. I then measured again by placing my new pan on top of the old floor (still installed) I then traced the new metal with a sharpie to give me a rough idea. Before I made the first cut I used the rough line and dropped down below the line as far as necessary to ensure all rust would be cut out, I then traced a new line by hand all the way around. Thankfully the new line was a good inch and a half below my rough line, this meant the new piece would cover the entire area I needed to replace.



http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-jJ6dPs0aYr0/TemaFWoWwmI/AAAAAAAABa4/efvEDXob6VM/s1024/1000000342.JPG



I then started cutting with my Angle grinder and a brand new cutting wheel...

http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-nqCwOAO_4jw/TemaPhOfPUI/AAAAAAAABbA/icyT0KegNhE/s1024/1000000343.JPG

http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-7RYaJfuUK1M/Temaiz5z60I/AAAAAAAABbY/BqH8UDLcPsA/s1024/1000000345.JPG




Almost forgot, as you can see in the last picture there are 6 or 7 spot welds on the rear lip. I removed these from underneath as the weld locations are easier to see from down under (side when on the roto).

I then started to pull up the pan, yes before removing the inner rocker welds...


http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-MwOYsAOmC7Y/TemaYlkV68I/AAAAAAAABbI/V2UZxc-Rg54/s1024/1000000344.JPG

http://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-IGd3uhIbAko/Tema1_HF1EI/AAAAAAAABbs/4D2NYH4zxKs/s1024/1000000347.JPG

http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-4nLvhpSzp1w/Tema_Ny6PxI/AAAAAAAABb8/OBCV_3P2Yg8/s1024/1000000348.JPG



Once I got all the cuts made it was time to turn my attention to the inner rocker spot welds that hold the floor pan in place. I tried to use the Blair bit on the underside of the pan, but I quickly realized the spot welds were much fatter/messier than the seat mount welds. I nearly ripped through the rocker after the first weld. So, I decided to use a little old fashion muscle. I flipped the car right side up, grabbed a chisel & hammer and just went to town between the pan and the inner rocker gap. I used a straight down hammer the heck out of it motion. This took about 20 minutes, but In the end the pan was out and the rocker was mostly unharmed.


http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-1Zf8u_r4B_w/Teqe06Cn4rI/AAAAAAAABd8/1gURVSv1mxw/s1024/1000000352.JPG

A few more pictures....

http://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-rvZpNZkT-K4/Teqepne18MI/AAAAAAAABds/qrcsTPNEEac/s1024/1000000351.JPG


http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-luXUTCN5Ut8/TeqeiD2txeI/AAAAAAAABdk/CH8xOS8-Upg/s1024/1000000350.JPG


http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-kzIHy7q-t7U/TeqfrWwQggI/AAAAAAAABeE/Kc_jfbwO7Xs/s1024/1000000353.JPG


http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-DkzTskuVMfM/TeqfyVE7r5I/AAAAAAAABeM/nJrJHTa18pY/s1024/1000000355.JPG




After smoothing the inner rocker panel to mate the new pan, I dropped the new pan in to test fit it one last time. I then went underneath and drew a line on the new pan all the way around the floor cut line. This will be the line I use to create the flange on the new pan.


http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-B9NePF8zFPc/Teqf31bm0BI/AAAAAAAABeY/wvUzjTUi49Q/s1024/1000000356.JPG

http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-TvSY4Y_5Fe4/Teqf-2k5_gI/AAAAAAAABek/LzO4xWxjD_I/s1024/1000000358.JPG

http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-bL2o9BsJZgM/TeqgFl9L5UI/AAAAAAAABe0/Ro_Ov0ZN4FU/s1024/1000000359.JPG



Then I started up the compressor and began to create the flange around the inner lip of the new metal. I learned about this from the Two Guys Garage CD that Camaro_z28_1969 sent me, thanks John. I bought a pneumatic flange and punch tool from tool supply, it's the Astro Pneumatic 600ST, runs about $65. It worked like a charm at 120psi, has the flange on one side and the hole punch on the other. Great tool. I love tools if haven't already learned.


http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-ft5T27Vkgww/TeqgbNF9dZI/AAAAAAAABfU/tSoe8PDFwuo/s1024/1000000363.JPG




I then used the other side of the flange tool to create the 3/8 plug holes all the way around the edge.


http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-YcDHbdT-yW0/TeqgiI-eaXI/AAAAAAAABfc/PGLp9TnKpzc/s1024/1000000365.JPG



I then test fit the pan to ensure the flange marks were good. I did notice that some of the punch holes near the rear of the new pan did it not actually line up with the old metal, so I plan to fill these with fiberglass Bondo along with the seam lines in the new pan. If anyone has any suggestions about alternative solutions I'd like to hear them? I'm just guessing on how I should do this.



http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-TVWyXqOBl9U/TeqgpFMqSCI/AAAAAAAABfk/GRrmp-oiAZg/s1024/1000000368.JPG

I then drilled the holes into the pan lip that will be welded to the rocker...

http://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-9nmZr5g0p3k/Teqg-ebyhNI/AAAAAAAABgQ/GCreI1SSD58/s1024/1000000371.JPG

http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-vVMkJceEUzw/TeqhDuhyr1I/AAAAAAAABgY/YAT9tHDUlyY/s1024/1000000372.JPG





More of the rest of the pan...

http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-ksBvnzO9lnA/TeqhR1HSuNI/AAAAAAAABg0/ulplDiIRmkY/s1024/1000000375.JPG

http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-6YtFCnOiqrY/TeqhX8jfwgI/AAAAAAAABg8/yUeX7oOc4dQ/s1024/1000000376.JPG


http://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-ojx6dO54_iE/Teqg3_7IM6I/AAAAAAAABgA/hKKZxAqIkjQ/s1024/1000000370.JPG




I then tacked in the pan and plugged some of the holes.

http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-jz944P2kdoQ/Te2pe0L4zEI/AAAAAAAABkw/zUmQ6tQBM2s/s1024/1000000407.JPG


http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-5WMO_4WVGeY/Te2pmffw9nI/AAAAAAAABk4/mOZbyFWcnpo/s1024/1000000408.JPG






Then test fit the subframe mount...


http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-CMsZUd7JQYw/Te2qdwW8gJI/AAAAAAAABmE/fJBTfTtPv3o/s1024/1000000415.JPG





Then I plug welded the holes I drilled earlier, this mated the floor to the rocker for good...

http://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-LJl-wEMLakY/Te2pQCFY7GI/AAAAAAAABkY/y0QddPWWEO4/s1024/1000000403.JPG


http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-sOldu7Dn07o/Te2pWqcDnQI/AAAAAAAABkg/hLj6jeoEVog/s1024/1000000405.JPG







Ok, not quite done getting this thread up to date...almost there.

Thanks for following!

Once I plug welded the pan to the rocker I then began welding up the top along the seam. Keep in mind that i'm a beginning welder, so what you see may not look pretty, but it works.

The method I used to ensure I would not blow thru the thin metal was close to a tack weld. I used a very low setting on my mig and pulled the trigger for about 1 1/2 seconds, then moved slightly, pulled again, then moved, then pulled, etc. I did not use a long continuous method. I initially tried this but I blew thru the metal, so I stopped.


http://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-A_aBjBbWVV0/TfBg50PSIeI/AAAAAAAABnQ/97IKVB-HrcE/s1024/1000000421.JPG

http://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-4twETGxPab4/TfBhB3H6_GI/AAAAAAAABnY/Q_wznN4A1nc/s1024/1000000422.JPG

http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Xf2ADsj_IFc/TfBhOfj3HkI/AAAAAAAABnk/kydBMFsXHEs/s1024/1000000423.JPG



I then went underneath and made a few welds at certain random points. I also checked to make sure I could see penetration from the welds I made above, which I could. I'm told this is a good indicator that the materials are now melted together securely.


http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-IRw97t4wNpI/TfBhXJsyE3I/AAAAAAAABn0/2ZhXZ3iVO2Y/s1024/1000000425.JPG

http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-38oq6sBTa80/TfBh0o5-NUI/AAAAAAAABoc/Ppkk38x8ne0/s1024/1000000430.JPG




I then plugged the rear seat bracket holes - which I made during the initial Spot weld removal....(you can see the blow thru hole I mentioned earlier, still need to fix it).



http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-ccRobd1phsE/Tfwg050NN0I/AAAAAAAAB8k/90iTZVEGDj4/s1024/1000000562.JPG






... and the front toe panel to finalize the welding of the pan to the floor.



http://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-tJRQeuMPhtc/Tfwg_1E2OQI/AAAAAAAAB8s/JgTD_5Yxcxc/s1024/1000000564.JPG




Next, subrame bracket installation...


I made marks before removing the old bracket, I also used the spot welds as guides. This part was by far the easiest. I did clean the metal surface before tacking, and I used a rust inhibitor to ensure rust wouldn't creep in.


http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-3Io2ZAiRaO8/TfKKQiNvsfI/AAAAAAAABpU/qlxjBc94WFw/s1024/1000000434.JPG





I then went underneath to verify the welds went all the way thru....I still need to make a few more.

http://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-WKRsh2RbvmA/Tfwg6ixLrtI/AAAAAAAAB8U/O3L-C14kJj4/s1024/1000000563.JPG



The driver side is almost done, I just need to get the new seat mount and weld it in...I'm moving on to the passenger side for now.

http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-T1wzPd15k7A/TfKKIX-p-kI/AAAAAAAABpM/6hJ6va7Sq4A/s1024/1000000432.JPG

Now for the passenger side, this should be easier as I have knowledge around the spot weld locations and a better Blair bit...


http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-TLeo17Bsb7U/TfKKkA29j2I/AAAAAAAABp4/9FJlec3A47k/s1024/1000000437.JPG

http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-E5glPBlRYS4/TfKKu5iu7pI/AAAAAAAABqA/wzmP-67FBMg/s1024/1000000438.JPG

http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-nkW51nqvU7g/TfKLLiHwKFI/AAAAAAAABqo/8XSidqkFNdI/s1024/1000000441.JPG


http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-K_Tg_PszOsw/TfKLCo6cBnI/AAAAAAAABqg/GzBIMfNJYYw/s1024/1000000440.JPG

http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-tWiSkk426sw/TfKLWG2iN2I/AAAAAAAABqw/VcW6Ek19h1M/s1024/1000000443.JPG




That was easy, ok easier. As you can see the seat mount has some pretty good amount of rust on the front lip, so I think I will replace it.

Next I had to remove the subframe bracket, so I went underneath and removed the spot welds...this made removing the bracket very easy...


http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-GDKMetXgyI8/TfKLoXnAIeI/AAAAAAAABrQ/byh613gPONI/s1024/1000000446.JPG



Yuck, even more rust damage. I will replace the bracket as well...


http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-koPwwEK70wM/TfKMDp9fSlI/AAAAAAAABrs/yqR8oK-poXw/s1024/1000000449.JPG



Now it was time to start cutting...

Again I used the chisel and hammer method to remove the spot welds from the floor on the rocker panel...


http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-5mHXmE3WWEo/TfQlBl8qhlI/AAAAAAAAB2E/MUBXMd9pbx4/s1024/1000000470.JPG

http://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-RVkNhNFB1eU/TfQlUsJvc-I/AAAAAAAAB2U/Jl6GjwBrDeo/s1024/1000000472.JPG

As you can see I left a piece of the rear lip, I will have to go underneath and drill out the spot welds before removing it.


I then test fit the new pan, and while I did I marked the new pan underneath where it met the old floor..


http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-G9X_NS8uDL4/TfQlcFBra-I/AAAAAAAAB2c/u5HoXbEpo9A/s1024/1000000473.JPG

http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-wB9zl7VMTqQ/TfQl0yrb5xI/AAAAAAAAB3A/dzuOkUEVfaA/s1024/1000000476.JPG

http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-nFB2iWT0mMo/TfwSIFBMEZI/AAAAAAAAB50/Jpm_fJiroHk/s1024/1000000551.JPG




Removed the rear lip before marking the pan for final fitment...


http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-gJ59nlq5jpk/TfwR3ahnehI/AAAAAAAAB5g/eVGmedZju9w/s1024/1000000549.JPG



Then it was trim and flange time...

http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-tqhmKDTDh3c/TfwS9ZPnHNI/AAAAAAAAB68/72Dqku7vm-4/s1024/1000000558.JPG



Now before I can do the final fitment and tack it all up, I need to address the toe pan. Since the floor pan sits ontop of the toe pan and the toe pan sits on top of the front subframe bracket plate, i need to remove the spot welds between the toe pan and the subframe bracket plate.


http://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-oaM-_nNpb1U/TfwTO_PKxRI/AAAAAAAAB7Y/WHMBuOUCTQo/s1024/1000000560.JPG




Well, now you are all caught up. I'm currently in the process of cutting out the toe pan to weld in a repair section. I will then move back to the driver side and do the same with that toe pan.

The updates from here on out will be less frequent as I only work on the car a couple times a week.

Spent some time today working on the toe pan. I supported the right side under the front portion of the rocker with a jack, just to be safe. I marked where I wanted to cut and used my angle grinder with the cutting wheel. I made sure not to go too deep where the subframe bracket intersected my cut line. I also had to drill out one spot weld from the rocker tab that folds over the right side of the toe pan. I then folded back the tab..


http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-fTdWSCn_TE4/Tfz-rLjaSbI/AAAAAAAAB88/PFX-_SwrNxM/s1024/1000000565.JPG





The old pan...

http://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-XrP_ihwoof0/Tfz-1VH0MEI/AAAAAAAAB9I/UZbKv0TQdzM/s1024/1000000566.JPG




I then used the old pan to provide a rough cut line on the new pan...


http://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-ZmLEttIZ540/Tfz-89seKDI/AAAAAAAAB9U/8z1x4aanMIA/s1024/1000000567.JPG






I then test fit and trimmed, then test fit and trimmed again, making small adjustments each time until the pan fit right in.


http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Kbgtiouu_E0/Tfz_G1wQzPI/AAAAAAAAB9o/BzobO2x85wE/s1024/1000000568.JPG





I then sanded and wire brushed the underlying surface rust on the subframe bracket, and then applied a rust neutralizer to prevent future rust.


http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Rj1nrAS-aEc/Tfz_dgRg1dI/AAAAAAAAB98/Itzf1TCWZ_s/s1024/1000000570.JPG





I will weld in the toe pan tomorrow and then get the floorpan tacked in for final welding...

nice!
KEEP THE pics coming

awesome thread and GREAT PICS :thumbsup::hurray::cool:
Keep up the good work!

Great job on the pans. Takes me back to mine years ago but you did better than I with the flange tool.

Ramein nice build. I have a 68 that started life Corvette bronze as well with a lot of the same issues. I saw at on point you mentioned filling some miss punched holes and the seams of your floor pans with a fibre glass filler I'd urge you not to. If you use some copper to back the holes they are easy to weld closed. The edges of the pan if your worried about the look of it, do a full stitch weld and grind it smooth less chance of problems down the road, especially with the time and money you have invested so far in your project.

Kevin.

Ramein nice build. I have a 68 that started life Corvette bronze as well with a lot of the same issues. I saw at on point you mentioned filling some miss punched holes and the seams of your floor pans with a fibre glass filler I'd urge you not to. If you use some copper to back the holes they are easy to weld closed. The edges of the pan if your worried about the look of it, do a full stitch weld and grind it smooth less chance of problems down the road, especially with the time and money you have invested so far in your project.

Kevin.



Copper? I think I've seen someone mention this before. Does the copper stay solid and not melt to the steel? The fiberglass Bondo was only going to be used for the slits in the repair panel, but I will try the copper first.

Thanks!

Ramien, Google copper welding spoon. It's a must have. Copper will not
melt to the weld.

Your weld will not stick to the copper or you can use aluminum, it does two things works almost like a form to keep the back flat it also works like a heat sink. The thicker the copper the better as far as wicking heat. You can cheat though buy a piece of copper pipe beat it flat with a hammer and away you go. The pliers in the photo have been used hundreds of times and there is no damage to the copper pad just a little soot, you just need to watch that your puddle does not get too close to the ears on the side your welding that side will stick. :beers:

http://i417.photobucket.com/albums/pp260/shandara/IMG_5799.jpg

I actually went out to HD and bought a bag of copper pipe u-straps...

http://img2.topfreebiz.com/o2011-5/cache/copper-coated-2-hole-pipe-strap-18212723586.jpg

I've already flattened one by hand, I will try it tomorrow. I hope it's the correct gauge. If this doesn't work I will buy a thicker copper pipe and split it.

Thanks everyone for the suggestions, I will let you know how it goes in a few days.

That is a lot of work. Looks great.

Ok finally got to do some work today, not much but something. I tried the copper back method but it didn't work very well, I was able to burn through the copper and actually melt it. I think I need something thicker.

Anyhow, I had To build the weld... it turned out ugly, but it seems solid. I will grind it down later.

http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-K4hpIC5CEi4/TgPlweurttI/AAAAAAAAB_Y/OoKD5M7gv0c/s1024/1000000574.JPG


http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-EvZCkDKGwCA/TgPl_bPsW-I/AAAAAAAAB_w/ne6sg95nZX4/s1024/1000000576.JPG




I left the remaining welding on the passenger side for later. In the meantime I cut out the driver side toe pan..


http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-x68efrSwGOk/TgPmHDOrgrI/AAAAAAAAB_8/H523-nyCcVo/s1024/1000000580.JPG




Then I traced out the replacement piece....



http://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-E71FVfpSY4A/TgPmOQmNaMI/AAAAAAAACAI/O6896EAJFCk/s1024/1000000581.JPG

http://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-365J6ICbGSA/TgPmWcS5EKI/AAAAAAAACAQ/M2CRNVNzZBg/s1024/1000000582.JPG




Test fit time....perfect.

http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Vg6Pk6-qrfg/TgPmc2tReeI/AAAAAAAACAc/VaAKVk-xfbo/s1024/1000000583.JPG




Finally, I wire brushed the existing underneath mount, then sprayed it with rust neutralizer as minor rust was noticed.


http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-P8xSl3B8N3A/TgPmkZeGebI/AAAAAAAACAo/Zw3V5Fpd52M/s1024/1000000584.JPG


Tomorrow I'll weld in the new driver toe pan and then the passenger floor.

You're making great headway. You definitely need a thicker piece of copper than those straps, and I am not so sure that they wouldn't be an alloy.

I would recommend a visit to a local electrical repair shop. You want a hefty piece of scrap copper strap if you can find it. Think 1/8" minimum and the thicker the better.

It may be worth practicing a bit with some of your takeout pieces, and adjust your heat(amperage)/wirespeed as well as your technique. Time is cheaper than grinding expendables are.
:beers:

I had a little time to work on the car today. I got the driver side toe pan and passenger floor pan all welded in. I used the build the bead method and it worked real well as I couldn't find a thick piece of copper. It seems like everyday my welds are getting better.


The toe pan welded in...

http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-As4TJaWE76o/TgarsHXmgWI/AAAAAAAACKQ/8TJRxJE35ZA/s1024/1000000174.JPG





Then I started on the passenger floor pan. I first tacked up top, then flipped the car on it's side and plug welded the rocker panel seam...



http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-UF7b_QcpsgI/TgadmOcWYdI/AAAAAAAACIQ/KZTX1_YaaAU/s1024/1000000595.JPG



http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-zX7IZUJid_c/Tgadsw82qrI/AAAAAAAACIc/Qd9CEZVrVOE/s1024/1000000596.JPG




http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-h1oww-4lHvk/Tgad9H04ILI/AAAAAAAACI4/D6D-D6pwrM4/s1024/1000000598.JPG





Then I plug welded the pan to the rear seat plate...



http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-eJGY98htjLY/Tgad1aCwpbI/AAAAAAAACIw/CnNXOZxY9iU/s1024/1000000597.JPG


http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-IMFtET_YjBg/TgaeNIu1yLI/AAAAAAAACJQ/v6m7Sq7IL0o/s1024/1000000600.JPG




Alright, it's official both floor pans and toe pans are installed...whew! Granted I have a few minor openings to finish welding, i need to install the mount and seat plates, and then I have to grind and prep for paint, but I feel a huge weight off my shoulder already. I'm glad I went through all that trouble though, I really appreciate the car even more now. It makes you really respect people who do this for a living. Plus I've learned some new skills and got to play with some new toys...I mean tools ;-).



http://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-ndFW06-cJD8/TgaeFHXzZ_I/AAAAAAAACJE/KxpzwUFTVbw/s1024/1000000599.JPG


http://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-VnIX25Y-f2o/TgaeUBBPgzI/AAAAAAAACJY/P0LRhIHW_gQ/s1024/1000000602.JPG


http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-IF95bsGYC3c/TgaeaQ4zhfI/AAAAAAAACJg/iAXrTJ3DCpY/s1024/1000000613.JPG




Next I will install the passenger subframe bracket and then both seat mounts, then it will be time to tackle the trunk...

Ramien, Welding does take practice and patients. Especially with sheet metal.
Your plug welds look good. The toe pan welds look a bit cold to me. Turn the
heat up just a bit. Also wire size, distance you hold the torch from the weld
and wire type and speed you move all make a difference. A cooper backer will
also help a bunch. It does have to be held very tight to the surrounding
metal. I often times clamp mine in place. Are you using flux core wire or gas ?
Gas gives a lot less splatter. If you're not already do it, grind the areas your
welding to clean bare metal. Don't weld over rust inhibitor. It will splatter like
crazy giving poor penetration. Here's a pic of a copper welding spoon. They
are about 1/8" thick. I paid like $14 for mine at Harbor Freight. I'm not trying
to tell you what to do, just sharing my experience. Keep up the good work.
This has been a good thread to follow.

http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u109/allanjs/Camaro-67/ScreenHunter_01Jun252320.gif

Ramien, Welding does take practice and patients. Especially with sheet metal.
Your plug welds look good. The toe pan welds look a bit cold to me. Turn the
heat up just a bit. Also wire size, distance you hold the torch from the weld
and wire type and speed you move all make a difference. A cooper backer will
also help a bunch. It does have to be held very tight to the surrounding
metal. I often times clamp mine in place. Are you using flux core wire or gas ?
Gas gives a lot less splatter. If you're not already do it, grind the areas your
welding to clean bare metal. Don't weld over rust inhibitor. It will splatter like
crazy giving poor penetration. Here's a pic of a copper welding spoon. They
are about 1/8" thick. I paid like $14 for mine at Harbor Freight. I'm not trying
to tell you what to do, just sharing my experience. Keep up the good work.
This has been a good thread to follow.

http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u109/allanjs/Camaro-67/ScreenHunter_01Jun252320.gif


Thanks, I'm using .035 flux core 211MP wire with no shielding gas. I have the Lincoln mig welder using a 1 wire speed A voltage setting. I did some practice runs first and found this to be the best setting for the metal thickness. The lap weld areas are great, no burn thru and no splatter, it's the butt welds that are a pain.

Im still trying to get a thicker piece of copper before starting on the trunk. Thanks for the suggestion.

Ramien, I think you need to drop down on wire size to no larger than .03
With flux core you have to wire brush (clean) the area your welding every
time you stop. Turn the heat up and move faster to avoid melt through or
use short bursts. Here's a video link that will give you some tips.
http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/how-to-mig-weld.html

Ramien, I think you need to drop down on wire size to no larger than .03
With flux core you have to wire brush (clean) the area your welding every
time you stop. Turn the heat up and move faster to avoid melt through or
use short bursts. Here's a video link that will give you some tips.
http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/how-to-mig-weld.html


Ok, I will pick up some smaller wire and give that a try. I do have a wire brush that I use to clean the metal with. I've noticed that if I don't clean it before and after each weld it won't complete the circuit and won't weld.
Thanks for the tip, I will check out the video.

Ramien, I forgot to mention you will need to change the tip size to match
the wire size also. Also the feed roller in the machine needs to of the
correct size. You will see what I mean in the video.

Another huge time saver is going to be a wire wheel, I prefer twisted or knotted wire on something like a 4" grinder or a die grinder but on a die grinder I like to slow it down with a little inline regulator right at the tool where it hooks to the air hose.

I have a cheap straight die grinder just for this set up that way. It is mostly because I do not like little bits of wire shooting at me at 20000 rpm, even if they say the brush can take that speed on them. No thanks. I turn it down by ear or watch the brush at speed with no load and try to minimize it from flaring out, then maybe bump the pressure/speed up a bit once I put it to the work surface.

I only mention all this because when you said you had a wire brush, I'd hate to imagine brushing all that by hand.

Ramien, I forgot to mention you will need to change the tip size to match
the wire size also. Also the feed roller in the machine needs to of the
correct size. You will see what I mean in the video.

Yes, you are correct, I need to change the tip. As for the feed roller, the one im using is a .025-.045, but I also have a .030 smooth. Which do you recommend I use?

Thanks for sharing the video, I've actually see that one before. I'm thinking of changing wire type and going with a 75/25 argon/C02 mix. I have a bottle and spool gun I bought for aluminum welding, you think I should switch to this setup instead?

http://www.scottgrossstore.com/catalog/LINK2532-1.jpg

Another huge time saver is going to be a wire wheel, I prefer twisted or knotted wire on something like a 4" grinder or a die grinder but on a die grinder I like to slow it down with a little inline regulator right at the tool where it hooks to the air hose.

I have a cheap straight die grinder just for this set up that way. It is mostly because I do not like little bits of wire shooting at me at 20000 rpm, even if they say the brush can take that speed on them. No thanks. I turn it down by ear or watch the brush at speed with no load and try to minimize it from flaring out, then maybe bump the pressure/speed up a bit once I put it to the work surface.

I only mention all this because when you said you had a wire brush, I'd hate to imagine brushing all that by hand.



Yeah, I don't know what I'm thinking using a hand wire brush. I do have a few of these I've used for removing grit and grim, I'm sure they would work much easier...thanks for reminding me...

http://image.made-in-china.com/2f0j00YvRtdolsbDci/Crimped-Wire-Cup-Brush-YL250-.jpg

Yes, you are correct, I need to change the tip. As for the feed roller, the one im using is a .025-.045, but I also have a .030 smooth. Which do you recommend I use?

Thanks for sharing the video, I've actually see that one before. I'm thinking of changing wire type and going with a 75/25 argon/C02 mix. I have a bottle and spool gun I bought for aluminum welding, you think I should switch to this setup instead?

http://www.scottgrossstore.com/catalog/LINK2532-1.jpg

Ramien, by all means setup the gas and get rid of the flux core. If you do that
you can get down to .025 diameter wire which is better yet for thin sheet
metal. You will need a conversion kit for your welder to use gas. Also DON'T
FORGET to change the polarity. I don't know anything about spool
guns. For the feed roller you need to use one that fits the wire size you are
using. I assume when you say one is .025-.045, it is a 2 groove roller.
One groove for .025 dia. wire and the other groove for .045 dia. wire. I have
not seen one that covers .025-.045 with the same groove.

The spool gun is used with aluminum because its so soft it does not like to feed from the machine all the way to your tip. Other than shortening the distance the filler wire feeds it should make no difference in your welding (although you would find using it awkward and tiresome in some places). The feed roller like Al said should be reversible one side for each size wire. You need to match the wire, the feed roller and the tip. You will see a huge improvement using shielding gas over flux core wire much cleaner welds.

Kevin.

Alright, I had some time this afternoon and decided to remove the trunk pan, it was bugging me. The good news is that the trunk pan is out, but in the process I stumbled on a haven of new rust.


http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-HwhnbVcpzC8/Tgu_psRilrI/AAAAAAAACL0/c5yo9xeMiOI/s1024/1000000615.JPG


http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-5SE4nJkAwK0/Tgu_yYYU5JI/AAAAAAAACL8/Ylbnco-m0xk/s1024/1000000616.JPG






After cutting all the way around, the pan was almost out. All I had to do was use a chisel and hammer to remove the spot welds for the tank braces. I purposely left them in to make it easier to remove.



http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-rIoiniC8L6k/TgvgVXtOmzI/AAAAAAAACOY/UsYL0K6Fmhg/s1024/1000000176.JPG





Finally, after some coercing the pan was finally out.

http://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-HX3bmvdQlAI/TgvAQqnQw9I/AAAAAAAACMo/UE_MSE2Y19o/s1024/1000000620.JPG


http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-oShw0EcmEr4/TgvAYZTYRiI/AAAAAAAACMw/95z_GTfN_i4/s1024/1000000621.JPG






Here's a comparison between the old and the new pan...


http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-GWQnW1NBxNI/TgvAImCi-hI/AAAAAAAACMg/Sa98FrIJn9M/s1024/1000000619.JPG




Once the pan was removed I started digging into how much of the right side I would need to remove, this is when I opened a can of worms. I was taping on the trunk drop down on the right side behind the fender well, when The hammer went thru. I kept going fearing the worst and my fears were confirmed.


http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-VKTWomYEHRg/TgvBLWFwA3I/AAAAAAAACN0/hqhePGreoU0/s1024/1000000630.JPG




Once the hole was opened I could easily see that not only the inner drop side metal was rotted, but the outer quarter was also rotted thru. Whoever primed the car primed right over the rust...



http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ApdomO_koYE/TgvBUCiLGAI/AAAAAAAACN8/JK5h_tJf9IU/s1024/1000000631.JPG




This is what came out of the hole....nasty golden rust.


http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-lLUpdSwXw1w/TgvBCe4HGiI/AAAAAAAACNs/yOgJqlrkP4o/s1024/1000000628.JPG




Over the next few days I will be removing and replacing the rear part of the quarter and right drop side metal. Then I can get back to finishing the trunk pan.

If it's not one thing it's another. The good part is that I'm getting very good at cutting and replacing metal. At first I was hesitant, but now its like I can't cut fast enough....:thumbsup:

I worked a few hours today on removing the passenger drop off and extension. Thanks again to Steves Camaro for having everything I needed in stock.

I started by removing the extensions which is spot welded to the rear frame rail. Again, I used my Spot Weld cutter and it easily just peeled back.


https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-0rrzh07xW1s/Tg0TN9JlJOI/AAAAAAAACO8/BixJHfBFWFo/s512/1000000633.JPG




I also cut horizontally along the front edge to make it easier to remove.


https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-pqkfJo2vGHA/Tg0TGY3WNzI/AAAAAAAACO0/MU0S7VD0yMI/s640/1000000632.JPG





I then cut a vertical line in the drop off to make removal easier.


https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-z42MD7KhZt4/Tg0XKNV1tAI/AAAAAAAACSw/IO-RkoQsEU4/1000000634.jpg




This is what remained of the drop off once removed...

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-r0Vc_tUM7eQ/Tg0Tc1NdIXI/AAAAAAAACPM/HJ9HTU73T-8/s640/1000000635.JPG





As you can see the rear of the wheelhouse and the rear of the quarter is rotted pretty good.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-9LgTMUWA61w/Tg0USwQC5VI/AAAAAAAACQY/I7KiMfAsErs/s640/1000000645.JPG


https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-FNflKAKSyO8/Tg0T7HFE4qI/AAAAAAAACP0/r0Au6dShLMw/s640/1000000640.JPG


https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-HvbNW2gSQsw/Tg0UJ-tphwI/AAAAAAAACQQ/n3vVxkvE3Ew/s640/1000000644.JPG



So, I cut out the lower part of the rear quarter...

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-G-tjxBhCpFM/Tg0UaseMRdI/AAAAAAAACQk/FNLkHd47aDQ/s640/1000000646.JPG




Here is the new extension mocked for fitment.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-lC7BGEcb2c0/Tg0Uh98giTI/AAAAAAAACQw/T9ukK13qqBA/s640/1000000650.JPG

I then test fitted the pan and the extension, some more cuts will need to be made.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-da8x58IZq0g/Tg0UvYB_hYI/AAAAAAAACRE/VPgpBv55ods/s640/1000000652.JPG


https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-ocruG2jnwK8/Tg0U9x-48oI/AAAAAAAACRc/N5FwQP2rRcs/s640/1000000654.JPG

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-EGCI70j66UM/Tg0VP9PcBiI/AAAAAAAACRw/jhN894cgozk/s640/1000000656.JPG




Finally all the pieces fitted one last time. The pan is cut to size, I just need to trim the lip off the extension and weld it up. I also need to get patch skin for the quarter.


https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-MliR3STDV_0/Tg0Vdz3gG7I/AAAAAAAACSI/5wuxk9ovFvQ/s640/1000000659.JPG



I will start welding tomorrow and hopefully by days end all the metal I plan to remove will be completely replaced. I don't have any other areas on the car that I need to worry about. The driver side drop off area is solid and does not have any rot.

:hurray: the trunk pan and extension is in and I'm almost ready to start sanding and painting :thumbsup:

First I tackled the extension, I had to cut, test fit and cut some more. Then once the piece was in, i drilled holes so that I can plug weld to the frame rail. Finally it all came together and I was able to plug weld it in.



http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-VnuW7ghkhks/Tg6IaW4kb-I/AAAAAAAACTE/6ZzVNRANZkI/s1024/1000000661.JPG

http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-knHEj0FcC-s/Tg6IhnQSFJI/AAAAAAAACTQ/A8pbM05syj8/s1024/1000000664.JPG

http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Y90gXBkmTL4/Tg6JA7UJlSI/AAAAAAAACT8/xbcVYwTMZaw/s1024/1000000668.JPG





Once the extension was securely welded in, it was time to install the pan. The pan by far was the toughest to trim to size. After hours of cut, remove, cut , remove, I finally got it as close to fit as possible. I then tacked it up and hammered certain high spots down.

http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-YI7e4yZB68Q/Tg6JY28qTbI/AAAAAAAACUc/mV126sspnCU/s1024/1000000671.JPG


http://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-FY4VfcIS_Zg/Tg6Jg6mwUdI/AAAAAAAACUo/6E1vSNcvUtU/s1024/1000000672.JPG


I then tacked the latch release bracket and bumper bracket to the pan.


I used the new super-arc .025 wire and the 75/25 gas. It seemed to work well, in fact a little better than the shielded wire.

Tomorrow I will finish all the welding and start on sanding and prep of the undercarriage for paint.

You're making good time on the project, that's for sure!

I think the more you use the shield gas the less likely it will be that you'd ever want to go back. I wish I had the time to explore a project to the extent you are, but then you are also making me appreciate the foundation of my car more and more.

Keep up the good work, you'll be really proud to show it off!

You're making good time on the project, that's for sure!

I think the more you use the shield gas the less likely it will be that you'd ever want to go back. I wish I had the time to explore a project to the extent you are, but then you are also making me appreciate the foundation of my car more and more.

Keep up the good work, you'll be really proud to show it off!

^^^^^ What he said!
You're making great progress. You'll be finished before me. I'm getting ready to replace my quarters with skins and the outer wheel houses. So hurry up and get those done as well so I can see what I'm up against! lol
As always, your pics are a big help.

Nice progress Ramien. The welds look real good :thumbsup:

Thanks everyone, I couldn't be happier with how everything is turning out. I'm learning a lot in the process and it's thanks to most of you. Please keep the feedback coming, I have no clue if I'm doing things right and Im relying on you guys to tell me. Thanks again!



I worked on the final welds for the trunk today...

http://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-73yRy94CdPQ/ThDvJ1rCn9I/AAAAAAAACVI/wdJiNhhk5tc/s1024/1000000675.JPG


http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-v8t3eWn9tsg/ThDvi2TLXoI/AAAAAAAACVg/5NfvUYrURtI/s1024/1000000677.JPG




The gas is working great, the beads seem to be much easier and cleaner. I'm also seeing less burn thru.


I then started on grinding down the welds.


http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-JbzB8U2scQE/ThDv9ly1q2I/AAAAAAAACWE/F0-HLEDzOew/s1024/1000000683.JPG

http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-iaS1_FXT18E/ThDwILF_ToI/AAAAAAAACWM/bSGjmXonGq8/s1024/1000000684.JPG

http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-y4vvuK1GnFE/ThDwRB9Yy2I/AAAAAAAACWU/xtRY3kUSgOI/s1024/1000000685.JPG

http://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-uhj8NUmj2yc/ThDwax9G1-I/AAAAAAAACWc/0BYmDL_6T2g/s1024/1000000686.JPG


I pissed off a lot of neighbors with all the grinding, they even called the cops once. I thought about buying them earplugs but then I realized I'm 1 day away from being ready to prep for paint. Plus they may not see the humor in it.

Almost there! :beers:

Ahhhh, the joys of living in the country! Looks good. You won't even be able to tell once you get it painted.

I haven't spent much time finishing up the grinding, instead I went back over some of the welds on the floor pans. The quality of the shielded gas welds on the trunk made me doubt some of the original inner shield welds I made on the floor and toe pans. Once I figured out the right settings with the gas the difference was night and day, I will never go back!

I also finished up the repair pan cuts. The gas worked so well I didn't need to use a copper backing, check it out...


http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-hDG93h1xfa8/ThZzinBmj1I/AAAAAAAACXM/jmT1--B-Awg/s1024/1000000693.JPG


http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-2UXIzDlR-3g/ThZzk1vKkGI/AAAAAAAACXU/3vI3hVzraps/s1024/1000000694.JPG



I'm just guessing but I think these welds look good.

Lastly, I bought some BIX oil and grease cleaner to help prep the surfaces for paint. Its suppose to be real easy to use, just spray on and wipe off. Does anyone have any experience with this product?

Here is their site:
http://www.manta.com/c/mmcxg3t/bix-manufacturing-company

Nice heat, that's for sure. I knew you'd like the being "on the bottle". It's like it all starts to come together like it was meant to be once you get "the right stuff", and technique comes naturally with experience.

I don't have much experience with sheet metal to be entirely honest so keep that in mind. Besides that, you are planning to grind most of your welds smooth for cosmetic reasons just like any of us would. But I have noticed a lack of "fish scale" appearance at least in the last couple pics, I didn't scrutinize over others. Is that because you need to move along quickly with sheet metal? Or is it possibly the angle of the gun, awkward situations or simply experience (no offense meant)? Your stuff looks great, and as I have said, I have very little sheet metal under my belt, and no real body work on cars, just school buses years back. Most all of my welding is all structural or fabrication and usually thicker metals than 1/8".

Nice heat, that's for sure. I knew you'd like the being "on the bottle". It's like it all starts to come together like it was meant to be once you get "the right stuff", and technique comes naturally with experience.

I don't have much experience with sheet metal to be entirely honest so keep that in mind. Besides that, you are planning to grind most of your welds smooth for cosmetic reasons just like any of us would. But I have noticed a lack of "fish scale" appearance at least in the last couple pics, I didn't scrutinize over others. Is that because you need to move along quickly with sheet metal? Or is it possibly the angle of the gun, awkward situations or simply experience (no offense meant)? Your stuff looks great, and as I have said, I have very little sheet metal under my belt, and no real body work on cars, just school buses years back. Most all of my welding is all structural or fabrication and usually thicker metals than 1/8".


No offense taken at all. The lack of fish scale is due to the fact that because it's thin metal if I was to hold a bead I would burn right thru the metal - evident in my first welding attempts on the bench. I searched youtube and came across a video made by students at Butler Community College in Kansas. One of the techniques in the video is called a stitch weld, you can see it here:

YouTube - ‪How To Perform a Butt Weld (Welding Car Panels)‬‏


I'm not sure if this is the best method or if it should produce a nice fish scale, the video doesn't appear to show a clearly defined one.

I spent a few hours yesterday working on the undercarriage surface prep. I started by cleaning all the surfaces with BIX, it worked great and took tons of oil and grease off.


http://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-f84RnzI7XL4/Thn69VGbeQI/AAAAAAAACZI/rclNmgh3Bmw/s1024/1000000703.JPG

http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-eeBGTwu9JBY/Thn60xYLSrI/AAAAAAAACZA/lFocDtxHbdo/s1024/1000000702.JPG





Once I wiped it clean I re-applied just to ensure all the grime was removed. I then began applying Bondo over the weld seams...


http://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Ns8kV2CFsxw/Thn8DNSkOsI/AAAAAAAACcM/uvPLmnzEq8o/s1024/1000000712.JPG

http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-24I6ABdUlqc/Thn7xsF7JbI/AAAAAAAACbs/ywXPbDNrc1M/s1024/1000000710.JPG

http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-BBu7KX1jqaM/Thn7aoNLnUI/AAAAAAAACak/xc5rx2cqxV0/s1024/1000000707.JPG

http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-SGry54pOAqI/Thn7L6VkYzI/AAAAAAAACZc/7v7eMKx2iro/s1024/1000000705.JPG

http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-b51ShssEHoc/Thn7Th6IMLI/AAAAAAAACaY/JSb3_tDU4Bk/s1024/1000000706.JPG

http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-v03nBN_tFL0/Thn7h3bj-LI/AAAAAAAACas/1itKFVLBz-Y/s1024/1000000708.JPG




Finally, I began priming for final sanding of the wheel wells and cross section. This area had the most undercoating so I wanted to make sure I got it all. The primer helped me see areas that needed further sanding.



http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-l9H-2a9ghOc/Thn73tds2kI/AAAAAAAACb0/XJWbPF0cOGo/s1024/1000000711.JPG





I'm going to get the paint in the next few days. Im debating between a metallic silver flat or a high gloss midnight black. I changed my mind on the exterior paint, I'm going to go with a Mercedes silver flat, so I'm thinking I may want get something a few shades different on the undercarriage.

Oh, the decisions.

Ramien, You are really going to town. Nice progress.:thumbsup: I would go with a black
paint on the underside myself but it's your car so do as you like. Great job.
Keep it up.

FYI, I just learned something this AM watching an older HotRod TV episode I had taped. When you apply a satin or flat paint, that is a one shot deal. With all the others if there is a flaw, whether a sag, run, dry spot, orange peel or anything else which virtually every paint job bears at first- you can color sand, buff and polish to still have the end result you want.
While the flat or satin colors are gaining popularity it had never occurred to me that you cannot buff and polish them like that. According to the painter they interviewed it is all about surface prep and you get one shot to lay down a perfect paint job. You cannot fix it, only scuff and repaint it.

Edit, maybe I misread your post. I thought you were pondering exterior colors and wanted to give you something to think about. I got the impression that the satin finishes are less forgiving for DIY painters.

Excellent build thread.
I always enjoy reading this type of stuff, and the photos are great.

I like your 2 little helpers. :)

Wow Ramien, what a project! And I am worried about my trunk pan.

Edit, maybe I misread your post. I thought you were pondering exterior colors and wanted to give you something to think about. I got the impression that the satin finishes are less forgiving for DIY painters.

I was, but I'm set on the flat silver now. I know it's going to be tough, and before I do anything I'm going to practice and read as much as possible about how to do it right. I love challenges and paint will be the last huge one I will have to overcome.

I worked a few hours tonight on sanding the Bondo down and priming the floor pans. I'm starting to see some progress now and it is very motivating.

Sorry my photos of the sanding stage are too blurry to post. All of these are of the priming after sanding.


http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-D6rqmvTd95c/Th54y1zG1MI/AAAAAAAACdU/CwUrpkfhS88/s1024/1000000717.JPG


http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-oMIftWHd6aI/Th549Mt9NxI/AAAAAAAACdc/T3FHsjeaUX0/s1024/1000000718.JPG

http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-q804FTn7DaE/Th55HwUnA9I/AAAAAAAACdk/ygq-cgCSTt8/s1024/1000000719.JPG


http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Nj__9gw6qbU/Th55jVwPGWI/AAAAAAAACeU/zLFVPfrvWuM/s1024/1000000723.JPG


http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-SwCkQQPdk7w/Th552cI87rI/AAAAAAAACeo/qB3Cy3MZ3xk/s1024/1000000725.JPG



I'm picking up the paint on Friday and im planning on spraying Saturday. The paint is a vivid black water based PPG two stage - it's a Harley paint. I'm told I need a 1.4 tip. I'm getting the paint from East Bay color. I've bought from these guys before but only 1 stage paint. I'm anxious to do some test sprays once I get the new paint on Friday.

Once the paint is sprayed you should not be able to see the Bondo or weld lines anymore.

:beers:

Before I can finishing priming i had to weld in the fuel tank supports. Here is that process...


First I test fit and realized needed to trim down the rear end piece to fit the curve of the trunk pan and allow for a flat matting surface. I also traced a line for later use.

http://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-YZwOZRJOoc4/Th-OnrS8f0I/AAAAAAAACjU/NbXEmDcR-yI/s1024/1000000727.JPG

http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-wlfpKxTc3ks/Th-Ox2VQvcI/AAAAAAAACjc/UedW8KoLLPw/s1024/1000000728.JPG



I then put the brace into a vise a drilled a bunch of plug holes.


http://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-VsM8RN41kdw/Th-QSCRKfCI/AAAAAAAACjo/Ov5XSNE7VLA/s1024/1000000729.JPG

http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-_SRdJ72otmU/Th-QnNmryUI/AAAAAAAACkA/B6e1Naj8ddw/s1024/1000000731.JPG






I then sanded off the black protective coating, required when parts ship from overseas. The coating gets in the way of the weld material and causes tons a popping an splatter.

http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-2jzrRIOVjps/Th-QwoOnmKI/AAAAAAAACkI/Ti8jA9Iodlk/s1024/1000000732.JPG




I also sanded down the areas on the trunk pan where the plugs will be made.

http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-ZCm8VBtRKn8/Th-Q6wu9kUI/AAAAAAAACkQ/4t-vKZyqSm4/s1024/1000000733.JPG



I'm ready to plug.

http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-PMK9ARJXK1Q/Th-RETBSeoI/AAAAAAAACkY/EYto8Bj_Eiw/s1024/1000000734.JPG


http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-NMiMHreUMi0/Th-RdGqIhdI/AAAAAAAACks/q0xRZujdW54/s1024/1000000736.JPG




And finally the rear panel plug welds...


http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Bhmk3Udldp0/Th-RpDLYUvI/AAAAAAAACk0/A_gXJaHm5yc/s1024/1000000737.JPG






Just to confirm I looked on the inside of the trunk and sure enough the welds went all the way thru and had plenty of heat.

http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-010kzr31Zt8/Th-R7cT4xBI/AAAAAAAAClM/jBq7BEgVdq0/s1024/1000000739.JPG




I will finish the other side now and finalize the priming tomorrow.

I finally received my outer wheel well repair piece and decided to get that and the seat mounts in before priming everything for paint. I first finished the passenger side tank brace before tackling the wheel well.


http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-oAHnQbTW2L0/TiEJmWyONxI/AAAAAAAACmY/CxzXoR6-i6k/s1024/1000000741.JPG






I fit and trimmed the drop off first. I then drilled holes and plugged them.

http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-l3aslla9dXg/TiEJtpWE04I/AAAAAAAACmg/rGzx3yD9Bbk/s1024/1000000742.JPG

http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-FzUoN-5rx1s/TiEJ1JU-LJI/AAAAAAAACms/92oHbQMxD-s/s1024/1000000743.JPG

http://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-nZ-Wsi08EEg/TiEJ7iBCf4I/AAAAAAAACm8/2cXNLd_C02Y/s1024/1000000744.JPG

http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-xeEulJRosj0/TiEKEO7ngnI/AAAAAAAACnE/L6zlfoy71RU/s1024/1000000746.JPG






I then trimmed and welded the lower wheel well in.


http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-BSHpIV2j7Rk/TiEKKniD1eI/AAAAAAAACnM/He8om0RZ2dA/s1024/1000000747.JPG

http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-6mr08R4di_0/TiEKTa7JWnI/AAAAAAAACnY/5B3xpVQHJhg/s1024/1000000748.JPG






I will focus on the outer quarter at a later time. I then drilled holes in the passenger subframe mount and plug welded it in place.

http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-NLd-HR_zh6k/TiEKawMDEsI/AAAAAAAACnk/zLtbXRL1ZTI/s1024/1000000749.JPG

I then drilled and plug welded the seat mounts.

http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-mvDzCjBb9mE/TiEKiUIh9GI/AAAAAAAACns/MFlHTdJZ2Oc/s1024/1000000751.JPG

http://lh6.googleusercontent.com/--VXq1kgv1yQ/TiEKpk-6OgI/AAAAAAAACn0/xjYMDDx2d24/s1024/1000000757.JPG

http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-gNBUVHLlm5c/TiEK4YOur2I/AAAAAAAACoQ/xuoHnahc2D0/s1024/1000000759.JPG

http://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-c980q0faWn0/TiEKw3RtbiI/AAAAAAAACoE/zgughtANn-A/s1024/1000000758.JPG




I then lightly sanded away the plug marks on the undercarriage and primed it one last time.

http://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-97gA6HK4BiY/TiELJBao7vI/AAAAAAAACog/-0MTniyEQZY/s1024/1000000763.JPG




I picked up the paint today, it's a single stage gloss black. It requires a hardener and reducer. The mix is 4 parts base to 1 part hardener to 2 parts reducer. Should work out nicely.


http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-axHaHXSwvls/TiELRXG0WDI/AAAAAAAACos/XsMzeF4w36s/s1024/1000000764.JPG

I got everything primed and masked for paint. I used self etching primer on the rear area just to try it out. I'm told it's provides better adhesion because it eats into the metal slightly.

http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-J3GyrSkEsRw/TiTa7Tn30jI/AAAAAAAACrc/rKmvzm1XSV4/s1024/1000000783.JPG


http://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-2yGys14jE2Q/TiZt2OuH_EI/AAAAAAAACu8/O6bYEsRJZ2I/s1024/1000000805.JPG


Next step will be to create a simple PVC structure with 4 mil plastic and paint it.

I finally Painted the undercarriage today, it went much better than expected. I did have a spray gun issue with the new gun, so I switched to my other gun and it worked great. I used a 1.8mm tip to shoot the single stage black.

As for the "custom booth", I used standard 1 inch PVC to create a cage. I then taped some 2 mil plastic around it. I cut holes for a standard box fan and used that to expel the spray and noxious fumes. I used a coverall with respirator and wrap around glasses.


Front side looking into the garage:

http://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-4h18Oc51r10/TithtJCywYI/AAAAAAAAC4U/zyU2qTD_DcE/s1024/1000000841.JPG




Inside the garage:


http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-1gUWz4jfJpo/TithbXVSzEI/AAAAAAAAC4E/skGI414kjCk/s1024/1000000839.JPG




Inside the booth looking out:


http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-h3LNAH68ab4/TithkunecYI/AAAAAAAAC4M/_VCcFsBdGsU/s1024/1000000840.JPG






As you can see the fan did it's job:


http://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-gQrLw_cFntw/Tith-8kfIpI/AAAAAAAAC4s/tLtl1Z58tfM/s1024/1000000843.JPG






And WALLA the new paint applied:

http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-lj57gHwzr9w/Tith2PS5I4I/AAAAAAAAC4c/ZavRLMx7xQw/s1024/1000000842.JPG





I could not be happier with the final results. After all the time spent cutting, hammering, chiseling, drilling, welding, sanding, preping,....this was a long time coming. I consider round 1 complete, just 99 more to go...or is that beer :beers:

The roto is coming off tomorrow once the paint has a chance to dry, then I can finally start welding the upper cowl in place.

:boxing: - round 2 DING!

A few more pictures once I removed the booth...

http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-0myfDGUePLs/Tit1MDfMOtI/AAAAAAAAC_4/YvzFq317p5w/s1024/1000000866.JPG

http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-85FEiewYerY/Tit1eJuYUAI/AAAAAAAADAU/gLjnDLSPIeM/s1024/1000000868.JPG

http://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-vZ63_2kSsoQ/Tit1UiI0tPI/AAAAAAAADAE/lIpXHV3Vnws/s1024/1000000867.JPG

http://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-vWhLcvTZ0tE/Tit1lbUh37I/AAAAAAAADAc/oqM5XqfAa7I/s1024/1000000869.JPG

http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-jR0gCCma5L0/Tit1twB5R3I/AAAAAAAADAk/O2JzfwSiBqw/s1024/1000000871.JPG

Awesome, Awesome, Awesome... what more can I say? Great work. You make those plug welds look easy. You're definitely kicking arse!

:D The famous Plastic sheet paint booth! Love that! I've used it myself.

The work is looking good man, great progress.

Got the holes drilled on the new outer cowl boxes yesterday. Getting ready for final fitment and plugging.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-eu6_F9zDjsc/TjoV7M1t4LI/AAAAAAAADHA/fDDPeCEdbxk/s576/1000000919.JPG

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-pLoNSckF6MA/TjoWE_zOXAI/AAAAAAAADHM/ibjM9MFyEwg/s576/1000000920.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-SLOQDr00Fpg/TjoWOaq7E6I/AAAAAAAADHU/zB1pVmGmwDo/s576/1000000921.JPG

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-8Sww02PPPM0/TjoWXFjVILI/AAAAAAAADHc/bzHTFJWvYKo/s576/1000000922.JPG

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-EfKUDfV05KM/TjoWhOYXwUI/AAAAAAAADHs/hV5_EqRXOFE/s576/1000000924.JPG



The only thing I don't know is what kind of rivets are used on the VIN and Body tags. I know this is Taboo, but if someone can PM me the details on this I'd greatly appreciate it.

Very nice. I built something similar when I painted my car , you may want to consider using some filter fabric behind the fan so it doesn't blow all over outside.

Very nice. I built something similar when I painted my car , you may want to consider using some filter fabric behind the fan so it doesn't blow all over outside.
An el cheapo furnace filter works alright... such as the spun fiber style. A good pleated one may plug quickly and you just want something for the paint to flow through and still get caught by if that makes sense. It is easy to find one that fits the fan too, probably a 24x24x1 would work well.

Doing a search of the forum on Rivets or "vin rivets" is likely to net you all sorts of info.

I called the CHP (California Highway Patrol) today to find out about the VIN plate swap. The officer told me that I would need to bring the car to the office for inspection, they dont send officers on house calls. I told the officer that I would have to take off the existing VIN plate and remount it first due to access issues once fully assembled. He told me that it's not a problem to remove the VIN plate and pop rivet it back in, all I need to do is keep the original mount plate and cowl just in case. He said all the officer that inspects the VIN will do is make sure the VIN matches the title and then he will likely place a blue VIN sticker on the end of the door.

Now, I just need to find the Rosette Rivets and get it installed.

Spent some time tonight getting the outer cowls and upper cowl welded in place. I was very surprised how easy they went in, I just hope the glass and fenders line back up properly.


The left side outer cowl was tacked in place, then I test fit the upper, removed it and finished off the plug welds for the otters.

http://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-gLCDrFpVTpo/TkH2I9BFOMI/AAAAAAAADOM/JxRrhUwwUZk/s1024/1000000961.JPG


http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-PIYaJZbktMw/TkH2QTKdn_I/AAAAAAAADOY/e1zqdsL3a_c/s1024/1000000962.JPG




I did the same for the right side.


http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-VcMLyn44-hM/TkH2YQhMJxI/AAAAAAAADOk/KFuaFSehyrY/s1024/1000000963.JPG



You can see the plug weld locations I used here.

http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-h-5Ccyor3kk/TkH2g6ZDu8I/AAAAAAAADOs/ZSeLiZRjzpo/s1024/1000000964.JPG

http://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-5Dh8MGvQqoQ/TkH2pMPEUXI/AAAAAAAADO4/pfx0F-hWKWg/s1024/1000000965.JPG


I then reinstalled the upper cowl, tacked it to the firewall and then plugged the 3 weld holes I made that allow the cowl to attach to the door frame wings overlapping the outer cowl (sorry no pictures). Once this was done I began plug welding the outer cowl cover on.

http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/--QO7VAucG6w/TkH24XhxN2I/AAAAAAAADPQ/OjgfrHDcPEA/s1024/1000000967.JPG


http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-DWAHiAnW1rA/TkH3IM4OgWI/AAAAAAAADPg/d9aqAJ17Vm0/s1024/1000000969.JPG



http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-A-Za7eXQYAo/TkH8HdrpetI/AAAAAAAADRA/It_noEbLThI/s1024/1000000973.JPG


I still need to finish the right side cowl and upper cowl plug welds, and the firewall welds.

Bye the way, I used a block of crack proof sealer in the front rocker gap (behind the outer cowl box) which replaces the original clay like substance.


This is really starting to feel like a car again!
:beers:

A few more pictures.

http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-qa4DsmuKaWg/TkH2_zp3OPI/AAAAAAAADPY/pHTQIgLE4Jk/s1024/1000000968.JPG

http://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-MWZnxiVFxSc/TkH3PfJfqaI/AAAAAAAADPs/3FFlCzWV8nY/s1024/1000000970.JPG

http://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-36jvpjY2pF0/TkH3eYrTnGI/AAAAAAAADQE/fK2z6LhU7bU/s1024/1000000972.JPG

http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Nx8QjllF0j8/TkH70bnWWlI/AAAAAAAADQw/62PBzAZOdpc/s1024/1000000974.JPG

http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-KwVpedmwbbw/TkH797gqb-I/AAAAAAAADQ4/1Zt0HIO4Vq8/s1024/1000000975.JPG

Ok, long time no update. I've been working on two other small projects in parallel - carbon fibering a hockey mask and modifying the rear fender on my Harley. Been riding a lot on weekends to, so there's that!

I finished getting the outer and upper cowls welded in.

http://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Y0xbPdzIdC8/TmvSijBMAUI/AAAAAAAADxo/YdMvvwGNhto/s1024/IMAGE_1000001170.JPG

http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-OE-6TRLcapk/TmvTk_36pNI/AAAAAAAADyI/-XuAW6eTrRc/s1024/IMAGE_1000001177.JPG









Now decision time, do I replace the hidden vin or do I leave it out? I'm not trying to pull one over on anyone, I just like the idea of having the original hidden stamp. What does everyone think?


http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-gh2Eosp0TwM/TmvTHxEwgRI/AAAAAAAADx4/MtXb6thLKDo/s1024/IMAGE_1000001174.JPG




I have the el cheapo paint booth already setup for tomorrow's painting of the firewall. I'm not sure if I will get to it though. Remember my little helper from earlier in the thread, well she got a bee sting today and had to be hospitalized. I pick her up tomorrow and I may need to keep an eye on her which means no painting. I'm hoping to get the frame back on next week and get the new suspension in.

I'll need to decide what to do with the rear end in the meantime. Does anyone have any ideas about my 10 bolt rear, you think it's still good to pull 400hp?

Finally started the painting tonight, here is the shot of the booth and first coat.

http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-XI1s4UBoLIg/TnAThnrUKwI/AAAAAAAADyQ/mq6EmNfBMfE/s1024/IMAGE_1000001181.JPG

http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-m13Ju4GiooA/TnATsMPgiZI/AAAAAAAADyU/slALyAsc88c/s1024/IMAGE_1000001183.JPG


I have to go get some more paint tomorrow to finish the job.

Great work Ramien!
I kept the hidden VIN. As for the rivets and the VIN, I just took pics of the original VIN with the rosettes and just used regular rivets. The original dash is long gone. I don't see an officer asking for the original. I wouldn't! I also don't see officers knowing the original rivets were rosettes unless they're into restoring cars.
I'm not concerned with the route I took. I have documentation and I'm not planning on letting this thing go. :beers:

Great work Ramien!
I kept the hidden VIN. As for the rivets and the VIN, I just took pics of the original VIN with the rosettes and just used regular rivets. The original dash is long gone. I don't see an officer asking for the original. I wouldn't! I also don't see officers knowing the original rivets were rosettes unless they're into restoring cars.
I'm not concerned with the route I took. I have documentation and I'm not planning on letting this thing go. :beers:


Good to know, thanks. This makes me feel much better about it!

For those interested this is the list of parts I plan on using for my engine build, which should be starting in a few weeks. I'm trying to dress the engine while still maintaining performance.

Thoughts?

Intake + Carb Combo: Edelbrock 20224 (600CFM AirGap)
Alternator: Powermaster 67294 - Powermaster Street
Water Pump: Tuff Stuff Performance 1394NA
Fuel Pump: Edelbrock 1721 -Performer RPM Street
Distributor: Summit Racing SUM-850001-1 HEI

The re-marriage is complete, I got the subframe back on with little or no hassle. I also mounted the tranny bushing on the crossmember and then mounted it to the frame.

The new body mounts will not only perform better, but also look better.

http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-3bC-K-DJe6Q/TnZSsW6fA4I/AAAAAAAADy8/oWNEGrmLAoM/s1024/IMAGE_1000001191.JPG

http://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-dU4E6ph33JI/TnZS1jrZZHI/AAAAAAAADzA/Q4vpqSuQJLE/s1024/IMAGE_1000001192.JPG

http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-oe0NzWi1G6M/TnZS-SDttVI/AAAAAAAADzE/yelZIPdSDJY/s1024/IMAGE_1000001193.JPG

http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-4wlTFC_leLU/TnZTJfvhcyI/AAAAAAAADzM/5nAcdOV6YK4/s1024/IMAGE_1000001194.JPG

http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-qHDueQRHT88/TnZTjrVPzDI/AAAAAAAADzY/zxIZY9trowE/s1024/IMAGE_1000001198.JPG

http://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-PHjHTDkheS0/TnZUCXRyhvI/AAAAAAAADzo/v8mAc1wjEsk/s1024/IMAGE_1000001202.JPG

http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-S2SlkKrMsL0/TnZUeRfz0YI/AAAAAAAADz4/2KqIePPZ-1o/s1024/IMAGE_1000001205.JPG

http://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-sq6NNG_dPN4/TnZUoW12hqI/AAAAAAAADz8/cvNKtOjakAk/s1024/IMAGE_1000001206.JPG





Next will be to mount the new tubular a-arms and get the suspension in. I'm starting to feel really really good about this thing...:beers:

Would you mind posting a picture of the subframe where the drivers side motor mount perch goes?. Basically the crossmember as it mates to the framerail from a little ways off.

You can be very proud of what you have going, it looks terrific! Can you feel the envy?

Would you mind posting a picture of the subframe where the drivers side motor mount perch goes?. Basically the crossmember as it mates to the framerail from a little ways off.

You can be very proud of what you have going, it looks terrific! Can you feel the envy?



Robert, the motor mount perch and the crossmember are two different areas, which one did you mean and what angle / specifically are you interested in? The crossmember supports the tranny tail and the motor mouns are held in with 3 bolts. I've yet to install the motor mounts.

Robert, the motor mount perch and the crossmember are two different areas, which one did you mean and what angle / specifically are you interested in? The crossmember supports the tranny tail and the motor mouns are held in with 3 bolts. I've yet to install the motor mounts.

I was referring to the main crossmember that runs under the engine, the biggest structural member in the subframe. Sorry for any confusion if you thought I meant the bolt-on transmission crossmember.

I would like to see it from where the engine will be, looking at the footprint of the motor mount perch on the drivers side. If the picture shows the A-arm mount and the 3 holes for the perch mounting it should be great.

The nice finish on your stock subframe should define the contour of the flat mounting surface and the radius of the relief nicely.:thumbsup:

I was referring to the main crossmember that runs under the engine, the biggest structural member in the subframe. Sorry for any confusion if you thought I meant the bolt-on transmission crossmember.

I would like to see it from where the engine will be, looking at the footprint of the motor mount perch on the drivers side. If the picture shows the A-arm mount and the 3 holes for the perch mounting it should be great.

The nice finish on your stock subframe should define the contour of the flat mounting surface and the radius of the relief nicely.:thumbsup:


I see, no problem, I will upload the photos when I get home tonight. Thanks!

These are the original pictures I took when I got the frame back from blasting and powdercoating, do these pictures show you what you are looking for?


https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-sc3fLkP3MZo/TY-mk0CzUFI/AAAAAAAAAbY/C6qEvMvv1S0/s800/9008_Subframe.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-GQXppvQZyGo/TY-mkxNuLcI/AAAAAAAAAbc/z68tEZRDeDA/s800/9006_Subframe.jpg

Here are a few more...

http://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-J1iOn1T9hVA/TngNCeasJrI/AAAAAAAAD1M/k1whtFYMux0/s1024/IMAGE_1000001209.JPG

http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-lncbR4M9gwA/TngNLayiI8I/AAAAAAAAD1Y/binUyZDPpcc/s1024/IMAGE_1000001210.JPG

http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-p0_kyfWTEG0/TngNUoy9nkI/AAAAAAAAD1k/7CuxLH0HCqc/s1024/IMAGE_1000001211.JPG

http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-tyl9UMCZaB4/TngNc__QHKI/AAAAAAAAD1w/qRSWctmLKrQ/s1024/IMAGE_1000001212.JPG

I worked a few hours on getting the sway bar mounted and test fitting the new tubular control arms.

http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-TFZ_zXOvTEk/TngONAEXWyI/AAAAAAAAD2s/JsQjY0lafJE/s1024/IMAGE_1000001221.JPG

http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-jgQoLIYL6P4/TngNld3TMoI/AAAAAAAAD18/HfSuKMkeYf4/s1024/IMAGE_1000001215.JPG

http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-VGaam6NmOiQ/TngNvq4dARI/AAAAAAAAD2I/ehSUHOYXzZM/s1024/IMAGE_1000001216.JPG

http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Ct4aS3Gt6Sk/TngODa323GI/AAAAAAAAD2g/8P85IlN9KaI/s1024/IMAGE_1000001220.JPG

http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-1_QtpFhSkmo/TngOXUpTIEI/AAAAAAAAD24/eJtVva9NodM/s1024/IMAGE_1000001222.JPG

http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-k2I_m8DcLNU/TngOf2J8eBI/AAAAAAAAD3E/INSaxbQZatE/s1024/IMAGE_1000001224.JPG







I was confused at first, I wasn't sure which lower control arm was the driver side and which was the passenger. I think I got it right, does this look right?


http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-3uRJjWYl2is/TngOqN88fTI/AAAAAAAAD3Q/4MXhFqFZ6JA/s1024/IMAGE_1000001225.JPG

I was confused at first, I wasn't sure which lower control arm was the driver side and which was the passenger. I think I got it right, does this look right?


http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-3uRJjWYl2is/TngOqN88fTI/AAAAAAAAD3Q/4MXhFqFZ6JA/s1024/IMAGE_1000001225.JPG

You've got it right in the picture. The little square block on the rear of the arm is the steering arm stop, it should be facing the rear of the car.

Everything is starting to come together very nicely.

Thanks Brent. The other question I have is the upper control arm cam plugs. The new arms have removable cam plugs and I was wondering which side the plugs install.

Does the thicker one go on the inside or outside? Do they mix and match?


https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-nSbItPSWuNk/TnjA0TT4etI/AAAAAAAAD4I/_6qpWEXXuVg/s512/upper_a-arm_driver_side.jpg

The control arm is not fully seated for illustration purposes.

Those pics worked great, thanks for the reference.
I can see how the control arms were confusing, that somewhat dogleg "S" shape would throw me for a loop too.

Looks great . Which tubular control arms did u go with

Looks great . Which tubular control arms did u go with

I honestly don't know the exact maker, I think they are Chinese remakes :(, although the bushings are Delrin and the ball joints were upgraded to heavy duty.

I spent a few hours tonight getting the lowers installed all the way. I created a small spreader with a bolt and nut to give me an extra 1/8" to bang in the lowers.

http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-0T992AFFhJ8/TnlBnZYJypI/AAAAAAAAD4U/OXJgG7Hm4fM/s1024/IMAGE_1000001233.JPG

http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-yb37sB4YVXg/TnlBxD_HxvI/AAAAAAAAD4Y/sDE4u29PedI/s1024/IMAGE_1000001234.JPG

http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-SSavx_VQmOY/TnlCHs8NXnI/AAAAAAAAD4g/DnlKbrPV6D0/s1024/IMAGE_1000001236.JPG

http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-dgWI_3eHR3k/TnlCR8q2h2I/AAAAAAAAD4k/wYsiuZTzkak/s1024/IMAGE_1000001237.JPG

http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Hk76Tvl3BNI/TnlCo913TKI/AAAAAAAAD4s/c_y9nf3FIcE/s1024/IMAGE_1000001239.JPG

http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-cqPGGEfg6L0/TnlCxbXG8TI/AAAAAAAAD4w/Flk1CLeyv5g/s1024/IMAGE_1000001240.JPG







I then installed the motor mount brackets and test fit the new engine mounts. As you can see everything is color matched!

http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-2Mrz0khQmSY/TnlDP3UDKmI/AAAAAAAAD5A/1sxOgcfV9wg/s1024/IMAGE_1000001243.JPG

http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-nJw7QmueZe0/TnlDv4WmlcI/AAAAAAAAD5I/JnlFNY_kJoM/s1024/IMAGE_1000001245.JPG










I then moved the fresh 350 back onto the stand and decided to tease myself by rolling it over the frame....

http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-HfoXnrUxyy0/TnlD54ieEhI/AAAAAAAAD5M/AajRoGI8uOM/s1024/IMAGE_1000001246.JPG




Next i will focus on the pre-assembly of the short block and get it ready for installation into the frame.

Thanks Brent. The other question I have is the upper control arm cam plugs. The new arms have removable cam plugs and I was wondering which side the plugs install.

Does the thicker one go on the inside or outside? Do they mix and match?


https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-nSbItPSWuNk/TnjA0TT4etI/AAAAAAAAD4I/_6qpWEXXuVg/s512/upper_a-arm_driver_side.jpg

The control arm is not fully seated for illustration purposes.

Can you take a pic of the UCA from directly above it. I know how the SpeedTech and Hotchkis arms are designed, but I'd like to see yours from above first.

Are those the Prothane engine mounts? If so, be patient getting those in. Also have a second set of hands! I spent hours trying to get them in by myself. Just an 1/8" off and no matter how much shaking and moving I did they wouldn't go. Then I got the wife to help and a lil' hammer! LOL That new poly is less forgiving.
Looking good.

Are those the Prothane engine mounts? If so, be patient getting those in. Also have a second set of hands! I spent hours trying to get them in by myself. Just an 1/8" off and no matter how much shaking and moving I did they wouldn't go. Then I got the wife to help and a lil' hammer! LOL That new poly is less forgiving.
Looking good.

Yes, they are Prothane, I got them from Summit. Thanks for the advice!

I love the color contrast between the frame, A-arms, and the red urethane bushings. The struts are edelbrock and should further enhance the red/black look.

I'm wondering If I should paint the engine fire red as I'm not sure the black on black will contrast well. With all the chrome parts I'm putting on the top it should look nice either way but I'm still debating, thoughts?

I finally pulled everything back out to begin re-assembly of the freshly machined engine.

1. The block was torque plate-honed to 4.030 using a Sunnen CV616 with tolerance up to .0002".

2. The cylinder bore bottom was radius'd

3. The main caps where squared and line-honed using a Sunnen CH100 with tolerance up to .0002".

4. The cam was slightly out by .003, it was ground to within .001 and then moly dry coated.

5. The rods were resized and aligned.

6. The valves were *ground to within .002" run out.

7. The crankshaft was balanced.


Main Parts:

New KB 193 Hypereutectic D-cup Pistons 0.30 over

http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-8jBYyhD2cuA/TnqehyFNlEI/AAAAAAAAD5s/Xy9UnKcGU4s/s1024/IMAGE_1000001251.JPG

http://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-BCho40tV6uI/TnqePCgz3CI/AAAAAAAAD5k/2Mbr5UZAivw/s1024/IMAGE_1000001249.JPG




New Total Seal Ring set 5/64th 4.035

http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-csbgbVDBeVg/TnqernMLDGI/AAAAAAAAD5w/rxAOIqTe3YE/s1024/IMAGE_1000001253.JPG




New Engine Pro MC1993 Camshaft
Hydraulic, stage 4, Dur@50 232/232, Adv Dur 288/288, Lift .480, Lob Sep 106/110, range 2000-5000.
*
http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-5IxcbF26K9U/TnqgAOVR8YI/AAAAAAAAD6U/9Z5w2k5_Ttk/s1024/IMAGE_1000001263.JPG

http://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-gd7J3S1f5bY/TnqgK4fw-SI/AAAAAAAAD6c/mOIv9uCuBeI/s1024/IMAGE_1000001264.JPG


New EPW hydraulic lifters

http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-lEoJC0CQ3Jw/TnqeXQFbJbI/AAAAAAAAD5o/0B7SqJKKMJM/s1024/IMAGE_1000001250.JPG






New Engine Pro Timing Set (smaller sprocket is on the crank already)

http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-0PgPX6NWtbM/Tnqe-5r6eAI/AAAAAAAAD58/ZAqO9FbhgjE/s1024/IMAGE_1000001255.JPG






I also bought new ARP head bolts, new Mildon oil pickup bolts and new oil pickup, and new Mildon main bolts.

http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-sxwNDlbR-Nk/TnqfLoUHTGI/AAAAAAAAD6A/haJ5jQa-pMs/s1024/IMAGE_1000001256.JPG

http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-S08KmF7XDR8/TnqfZXGUgOI/AAAAAAAAD6E/nmtsrecxRSs/s1024/IMAGE_1000001257.JPG

http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-TCxxoM4gp1I/Tnqf2SPV_4I/AAAAAAAAD6Q/C_NVTBeNvUc/s1024/IMAGE_1000001262.JPG




Continued......

A few more of the new parts and machining work....

http://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-mqgHWzrj_vM/TnqfjMDHj1I/AAAAAAAAD6I/jQ3LOhXKxtA/s1024/IMAGE_1000001258.JPG

http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-tn3olzEAtP8/TnqgUTJF3fI/AAAAAAAAD6g/IZ4syS6Q-IE/s1024/IMAGE_1000001267.JPG

http://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-HtynxzFKWg0/TnqgeLcXA4I/AAAAAAAAD6k/l5pLlwZuAfo/s1024/IMAGE_1000001268.JPG

http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-C0Z4IAsMjWw/TnqgnWsNxPI/AAAAAAAAD6o/uCo_8mSlM68/s1024/IMAGE_1000001269.JPG


I will post short videos of the engine build on YouTube and link them here in a few weeks once the short block is sealed.

Can you take a pic of the UCA from directly above it. I know how the SpeedTech and Hotchkis arms are designed, but I'd like to see yours from above first.


Here you go, let me know if these work?

http://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-KI_xhwxQJig/Tnqh3PgDsyI/AAAAAAAAD7M/Vp8TiIaDa3o/s1024/IMAGE_1000001277.JPG
http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-yIWxhBF_xM0/TnqiAxvnCWI/AAAAAAAAD7Q/fW5iazpuLS4/s1024/IMAGE_1000001278.JPG

Here you go, let me know if these work?

Alright, those have a different shaft than some of the other tubular arms. The Hotchkis and SpeedTech arms have a slightly offset shaft so that if they are facing one direction it will pull the arm closer to the engine bay and the other direction will pull it closer to the fender. You want it set up so the arm is pulled closer to the fender.

If it were me, and I had no directions to go on, I would put the small spacer/washer on the fender side, and the big one on the engine bay side (opposite of the way it is set up in your pic).

Alright, those have a different shaft than some of the other tubular arms. The Hotchkis and SpeedTech arms have a slightly offset shaft so that if they are facing one direction it will pull the arm closer to the engine bay and the other direction will pull it closer to the fender. You want it set up so the arm is pulled closer to the fender.

If it were me, and I had no directions to go on, I would put the small spacer/washer on the fender side, and the big one on the engine bay side (opposite of the way it is set up in your pic).


Ok, I will swap them and see how that works. I need to find a good alignment shop that I can take the car to before I take it out for a good long drive...once I get to that point that is :D

I also emailed someone on eBay selling the same type of a-arms to see if they know who makes them and what the recommended setup is, I doubt I will get a response but it was worth a try.

Ramien, I just stumbled on your build thread while I was searching for info on upper control arms. (INCREDIBLE progress you're making, by the way!) I don't know if you used the slugs that came with your arms, but I found this thread (http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=141451&highlight=control+arms) and just wanted to bring it to your attention. I'm just learning about all this stuff, but the jist of the thread seems to be that the Chinese made arms are fine, but take caution regarding the slugs. Apparently there's a chance of the slug crumpling after the shims are torqued down, and it looks like several people have replaced the slugs and then used grade 8 washers, bolts, and nuts on the shafts.

I can't afford the $1200 Hotchkis set up, so I think I'm going to go with the Chinese arms, too. Are these the ones you bought? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/67-69-1967-1969-Camaro-Tubular-Control-Arms-Arm-Nova-/310346376437?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item484215e4f5#ht_879wt_939

Again, I'm only learning right now, so not trying to tell you what to do. I just saw how much work you've done on your build, and if there's in reality some chance of the arm shafts failing, wanted to save you some hassles down the road.

Glad I found your thread. Awesome work; great pictures and explanations!
:popcorn:

Great post Zac!

I can't afford the $1200 Hotchkis set up, so I think I'm going to go with the Chinese arms, too. Are these the ones you bought? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/67-69-1967-1969-Camaro-Tubular-Control-Arms-Arm-Nova-/310346376437?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item484215e4f5#ht_879wt_939


Its not the same seller, but they are identical. I'm sure these are built by only one company.

Thanks for the thread, that was great information. From what I can tell I think I have the newer cams. Mine were snug when I installed them and the bumpers are red. That said I may just invest in some new cams just to be safe. I found a good US company that sells them for $20/each, so $160 would be how much piece of mind is going to cost - way worth it! From what I can tell the tubular welds are good so I'm sure they won't break.

Thanks again, the thread was a great read!

The timing between my searching and your posts on your arms was perfect! :beers: Steve O. and the posters on that thread deserve all the credit though.

For what it's worth, I just ordered my arms (about 15 seconds ago). I wish I could claim that I was doing as thorough of a build as you are doing, but maybe we can compare notes on the arms... Actually it looks like you're going to be ahead of me on install, so I'll keep peeking over here and see what you're up to. :D

From reading that thread, it does look like you want the smaller cam facing the wheel side, and the larger one facing the engine so the nut is on the side with the bigger cam.

I spent Friday doing the clearance checks using the old bearings. If you recall when I first checked the tolerances over 6 months ago the main bearings showed significant rub on one side after just some light spinning of the crank on the engine stand. The original tolerances were between .0015 and .002, when using .10 bearings, which was a little tight.

http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Ha3bKebkRhY/TnvoqR-089I/AAAAAAAAD7o/bnbgLbf5-IY/s1024/IMAGE_1000001280.JPG




After checking the tolerances with the freshly ground crank and new line honed Block my tolerances were again between .0015 and .002. This told me that to get to a looser .00225 to .0025 I would need to use a 10X bearing.

I bought a set of Kings 10X and rechecked my tolerances.

Main 1 = .025
Main 2 = .025
Main 3 = .0225
Main 4 = .025
Main 5 = .0275

Overall these are much better readings and will work fine for my application.

I then removed the crank and compared the old bearings to the new ones, as you can see the crank is now perfect. The old bearings are the ones not seated. The new are already seated in the saddles. Also, the new bearings are thinner as you can see- I presume this prevents friction on the crank weights?


http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-klDeoEbVAUw/Tn1FArGB8uI/AAAAAAAAD74/31dNDvM-uzE/s1024/IMAGE_1000001284.JPG

http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-unjXl3_DbuE/Tn1FIeUhcyI/AAAAAAAAD78/xiK4cUysj8U/s1024/IMAGE_1000001285.JPG

http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-IfslsEQez28/Tn1FQVQSh1I/AAAAAAAAD8A/JGcOgRhYWvw/s1024/IMAGE_1000001286.JPG

http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-OD4YrdCmro4/Tn1FY2lecjI/AAAAAAAAD8E/XsVDB6akfkg/s1024/IMAGE_1000001287.JPG

http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-IXiHziq4p9g/Tn1Fg2-anmI/AAAAAAAAD8M/MK0fVLIYexE/s1024/IMAGE_1000001288.JPG



I continued on and checked the tolerances on the rod bearings with the old rod bearings, again .10 clevitte bearings. The measurement showed all clearances to be at .001 to .0015 - way too tight. So I bought a new set of Kings 10x and rechecked.

1 = .002 2 = .002
3 = .0175 4 = .0175
5 = .0175 6 = .002
7 = .002 8 = .002

All in all much better, but still not great. I'm going to talk to my machine guy on Monday and see what he recommends to get me to between .002 and .0025.

Here is a picture of the block assembled. The crank rotates so smooth it's night and day from before.

http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-h1_fdZyBWoY/Tn1GFcfwz_I/AAAAAAAAD8c/WakdgwNryq8/s1024/IMAGE_1000001293.JPG





The last few checks I have to make are the valve to piston clearance, degreeing the camshaft, and crankshaft endplay. Is there anything I'm missing?

:D

I need to look into getting my windage tray now. I found this thread which explains the difference between louvered and screen. The thread suggests Louvered is the way to go and provides some evidence why, including a Moroso rep. advocating the diamond radius louvered design:

http://www.circletrack.com/techarticles/76818/index.html


Does anyone have thoughts/experience with Milodon 32100? How about steel versus aluminum?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MIL-32100/?rtype=10

Hey did you get your slugs in? Just got my arms in, and curious what you ended up ordering...

Also, sorry if you specified and I missed it, but what sway bar did you go with?

Your engine build is looking NICE! :beers:

I decided to paint my oil pan and timing cover with a duplicator engine enamel just to see what it would look like. I really like the color and I think I'm going to paint the block this color. I plan on having a polished chrome pan and cover.

http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-dbBC6CKj1Gg/ToPuvy9qkjI/AAAAAAAAD9A/i4k8o7KduNI/s1024/IMAGE_1000001302.JPG

http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-TDUwo6iun8Y/ToPu3-Fd_1I/AAAAAAAAD9E/GubEVJ0dJfQ/s1024/IMAGE_1000001303.JPG

http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-D5GPcAfEuu4/ToPvCIsZocI/AAAAAAAAD9I/sEokT6jh7ro/s1024/IMAGE_1000001304.JPG

Hey did you get your slugs in? Just got my arms in, and curious what you ended up ordering...

Also, sorry if you specified and I missed it, but what sway bar did you go with?

Your engine build is looking NICE! :beers:



I haven't bought them yet, but I'm thinking this company:
http://www.victorypp.com/inventory/13

I'm using the stock front sway bar with new polyurethane bushings, but I may upgrade to this kit by Hotchkis:

http://www.hotchkis.net/6769_camarofirebird_sway_bars_chassis_brace.html

http://www.hotchkis.net/_uploaded_files/67-69_camarofirebird_sway_bars_chassis_braceproducts6 48promo_pic.jpg

For $900 this may be a down the road upgrade, same with upgrading to multi-leaf springs.

Thanks!

Here are few more pictures of the block during the pre-assembly:

http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-4YdfyM39EFg/ToPvKxb0AqI/AAAAAAAAD9Q/UjYt6qUfJ0o/s1024/IMAGE_1000001305.JPG

http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-TGlhJjHbVBc/ToPvSw8imDI/AAAAAAAAD9U/bse9udgU3Vk/s1024/IMAGE_1000001306.JPG

http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-_pSlATjWBAM/ToPvau99C6I/AAAAAAAAD9Y/D7Ou5m16Dag/s1024/IMAGE_1000001307.JPG

http://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-xOfMD6V20wg/ToPvkANupZI/AAAAAAAAD9c/Ttmwr9hiK_U/s1024/IMAGE_1000001308.JPG

http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-1T_BaydQUF8/ToPwBUz_62I/AAAAAAAAD9o/uncTbBq5wkI/s1024/IMAGE_1000001311.JPG








For the camshaft degreeing I drilled some holes into a metal plate and bolted it to the top of the block:

http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-PJMVLXC33mI/ToPwzEzlydI/AAAAAAAAD-A/E84MZzFYafs/s1024/IMAGE_1000001317.JPG



It's hard to see, but in the middle I screwed a small bolt into the plate so that I could create a stop to get my TDC measurements.

My measurements were 27 and 23 degrees before and after. After adjusting the degree wheel to equal 25 on both the up and down stroke I removed the stop bolt and turned the crank to TDC. Just to confirm I placed the dial indicator on top of the piston and remeasured .50 over and under. I was less than a 1/4 degree off - I'm told this is fine?

As you can see I measured 11.75 degrees on one side and 12 on the other:

http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-68GOAwpeOpU/ToPxHGKb_XI/AAAAAAAAD-I/aPdWidjdt20/s1024/IMAGE_1000001319.JPG

http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-U0CNkZMywe8/ToPxS2CFxDI/AAAAAAAAD-Q/F1i3_3gCcvQ/s1024/IMAGE_1000001320.JPG

http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-jthgZvpZRB8/ToPxdyj91LI/AAAAAAAAD-U/lKTK7UPuPVM/s1024/IMAGE_1000001321.JPG



I hope I did this right.


I then checked the intake and exhaust lift against my cam card and came up with these:

Intake = 83 + 124 = 207 / 2 = 103.5 (Cam card calls for 106 max lift)
Exhaust = 83 + 140 = 223 / 2 = 111.5 (Cam card calls for 110 max lift)

I rechecked and came up with nearly identical numbers. Are these acceptable based on the cam card below, and did I measure these right?

http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-mDhPVekfQgA/ToPyJ6U5yfI/AAAAAAAAD-k/GLJExxYhSJM/s1024/IMAGE_1000001325.JPG

I performed the valve clearance check two ways, one using the dial indicator and also using some molding clay. For the modleing clay i placed a small ball of modeling clay over the intake and exhaust reliefs on the piston head.

I installed the heads and then the pushrods and a pair of solid lifters, and then tightenend everything to zero lash.

http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-_47mDyv1IM4/ToPyTPEgKYI/AAAAAAAAD-s/Twd79snxIfc/s1024/IMAGE_1000001326.JPG









I then rotated the crank until both the intake and exhaust valves opened and closed twice. I then removed the head and measured from the top of the head to bottom of the groove in the clay.

http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-ls5lZsLNXAQ/ToPyeMVo0kI/AAAAAAAAD-w/rOb9bLldZ-c/s1024/IMAGE_1000001328.JPG







The clearance for both were between .180 and .260. I'm told that these numbers ensure the valves wont make contact with the piston.


http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-us2ywoGvSm8/ToPynxQSHdI/AAAAAAAAD-0/LtTQqagyEc4/s1024/IMAGE_1000001329.JPG



Then, I checked the endplay on the crank and it measured between .003 and .005.


Finally, I pulled it all apart as I was eager to check the wear on my new bearings. Mind you, up to now I probably hand turned the crank with the new bearings about 30 times with all the clearance checks.

I was pleasantly surprised to see the wear pattern:

http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-a6mY59F83M4/ToPyw8bd6eI/AAAAAAAAD-4/yby73V2wWcg/s1024/IMAGE_1000001330.JPG


http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-HUF0EcdCGsg/ToPy63kZjmI/AAAAAAAAD-8/do1pBWC1kHE/s1024/IMAGE_1000001331.JPG


http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-W7heMPn1rP4/ToPzFT68hUI/AAAAAAAAD_A/N1v8a3C4xtw/s1024/IMAGE_1000001332.JPG





If you recall I had massive uneven wear originally:


http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-5FLcMPTddM8/TWXO1o5bd8I/AAAAAAAAAR4/lZbgLJO8kl8/s1024/all_bearings.jpg




All in all I'm very happy by the tolerances and I hope you all agree. If not, please speak up I'd like to hear your thoughts.

Thanks everyone!

Lastly, tonight I painted the engine and heads the new fire red, awesome!

http://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-JMWqAAuBhvU/ToUvex_BGNI/AAAAAAAAD_Q/vhKHAo4ckb8/s1024/IMAGE_1000001334.JPG


http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-BKsx8Qksn5Y/ToUvnqtL6yI/AAAAAAAAD_U/fVzh8QixIj8/s1024/IMAGE_1000001335.JPG

http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-WDH7rJ3KlvU/ToUvWir8tUI/AAAAAAAAD_I/xTsx8bejeW4/s1024/IMAGE_1000001333.JPG




Later on when I go to aluminum heads with polished valve covers the red will be a little more subtle and should work nicely.



.

I worked a little more on the engine today, and boy I'm glad it's almost done.

First I lubed up the camshaft with cam guard and installed it along with the crankshaft. I used bearing guard on the main bearings. I torqued the mains to 75ft/lb and then installed the timing chain. I used blue thread locker on the gear bolts, I hope this is enough. I also used a bead of silicone sealer on the rear under the thrust cap.

http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-7cpf2wonABs/Todj8bwcjSI/AAAAAAAAD_4/0LbejGPU1ec/s1024/IMAGE_1000001341.JPG








I then turned my focus to the pistons, the machine shop had already installed my wrist pins and gapped the rings. Unfortunately they didn't install those little lock rings that hold the wrist pins in - i learned very quickly how much of a pain the things really are.

First I installed the rings.

http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-kXU3LHxF8eE/TodkFBbLbRI/AAAAAAAAD_8/TUCXhEK5kE0/s1024/IMAGE_1000001343.JPG





Then, the lock rings.


http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-AHhEP1cg0JA/TodloQ6f0_I/AAAAAAAAEAI/lecDDTpS6AI/s1024/IMAGE_1000001347.JPG


http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-J2IQYZ3kXLc/TodlvhpXx3I/AAAAAAAAEAM/RFxOb1ztw0E/s1024/IMAGE_1000001348.JPG




Then I installed the 1,3,5 and 7 pistons. My first pistons ever! :hurray:
I rotated the crank and checked the walls for broken or scratching rings, everything looked great.



Once all pistons were installed I installed the timing cover and then flipped the engine over. I torqued all rod bolts to 45ft/lb.

http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-DDqRctMwif4/Tofgi9yY9cI/AAAAAAAAEAw/6T1iV3vdU2E/s1024/IMAGE_1000001355.JPG





I installed the pick up and rod, and the engine mounts, then the new dipstick - since the block was already upside down.


http://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-nmf9TXOYgo4/Tofg2pmYEMI/AAAAAAAAEA8/-Jd8T6KLetY/s1024/IMAGE_1000001357.JPG






Except for the oil pan and windage tray, everything is done underneath. I decided to install the heads. I used thread sealer on all bolts.


http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-XonIe2lTfdI/TofhTKabEKI/AAAAAAAAEBI/6N7lsEiRb0U/s1024/IMAGE_1000001360.JPG






And other than what I've mentioned underneth, the water pump, fuel pump, alt, dist, starter and getting the new intake setup the engine is almost ready for the dyno. I'd like to think the hard stuff is behind me, but I'm sure more is to come.


http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-n1Q3enBSxJM/Tofhl9SI7-I/AAAAAAAAEBQ/I7vaWgM28Ro/s1024/IMAGE_1000001362.JPG

http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-ywDrmi4Jics/TofhwFap0YI/AAAAAAAAEBY/Zi5-tTxBrwc/s1024/IMAGE_1000001363.JPG

Bye the way, the ring gap location in the picture was not the final setup. I rubbed some oil around the skirt and rings, then set the gaps as follows:

Top ring gap at top
Second ring gap at bottom
Expander ring gap at top
Top and bottom oil control gaps at 45 degrees on opposite sides of the bottom.

Hey I have that same cam about to go in my engine!

What heads are you running?


Sent from my Autoguide iPhone app

You're really kicking arse on this! Where do you find the time? :confused: I never have enough time. There's always something else that needs to be done around here!
Keep it up. Looking great.

Hey I have that same cam about to go in my engine!
What heads are you running?
Sent from my Autoguide iPhone app



I'm running the stock heads. One is a 3973487 that was used between 71-73 on GM 350 engines, it has 1.94 and 1.50 valves, and the other is a 3973487X that was used on 71-73 Corvette 350s and 400s, it has 2.02 and 1.60 valves I'm told. Both had valve jobs when at the machine shop. I forget how many angles, although the machine shop walked me through it and it seemed way over the top.

I plan on upgrading to aluminum AFR heads later on, something like these 220cc heads:

http://www.airflowresearch.com/index.php?cPath=24_115

You're really kicking arse on this! Where do you find the time? :confused: I never have enough time. There's always something else that needs to be done around here!
Keep it up. Looking great.


Thanks, it's taken many evenings. Im very surprised at my progress considering i play hockey, golf, ride with my harley club and visit my dad every weekend. I'm just happy everything is going back together now and it's starting to look like a car again. I'm just Leary of getting it all painted.

Say, what type of spray gun did you use on yours? I like the orange, are you happy with the results or are you planning on redoing it because of the orange peel?

Thanks, it's taken many evenings. Im very surprised at my progress considering i play hockey, golf, ride with my harley club and visit my dad every weekend. I'm just happy everything is going back together now and it's starting to look like a car again. I'm just Leary of getting it all painted.

Say, what type of spray gun did you use on yours? I like the orange, are you happy with the results or are you planning on redoing it because of the orange peel?

I used a kit from TCP Global. I'm happy with it. I'm sure I could get it better, less orange peel, but it looks like a stock paint job! :yes: I had to show the wife on her 2007 Nissan Murano what I was talking about! lol The kit was only $79. I have a friend who will let me use his $400 gun if I want to! I think if I play with the controls on the gun, I could get it to spray a lil' better. But like I say, I'm not building a show car! I put four coats of clear on so I could color sand it... i won't. The exterior I will be color sanding! There was no homemade spray booth put up. I will when I do the exterior.

Ramien, what an amazing thread, great workmanship!!! I noticed you are using a chrome timing cover. If you do a search on "chrome timing cover leaks" you will find that there is ample evidence that these things leak compared to the plain painted steel ones.

Looking forward to more of your thread.

alan

Ramien, what an amazing thread, great workmanship!!! I noticed you are using a chrome timing cover. If you do a search on "chrome timing cover leaks" you will find that there is ample evidence that these things leak compared to the plain painted steel ones.

Looking forward to more of your thread.

alan


Thanks Alan, I just searched and found some good stuff on this. I will watch for this when I get to turning the engine on. I may change it later but for now it's sealed real well with high tack and I will use some sealer on the pan lip.

I'm running the stock heads. One is a 3973487 that was used between 71-73 on GM 350 engines, it has 1.94 and 1.50 valves, and the other is a 3973487X that was used on 71-73 Corvette 350s and 400s, it has 2.02 and 1.60 valves I'm told. Both had valve jobs when at the machine shop. I forget how many angles, although the machine shop walked me through it and it seemed way over the top.

I plan on upgrading to aluminum AFR heads later on, something like these 220cc heads:

http://www.airflowresearch.com/index.php?cPath=24_115

220's? Planning on stroking the 350? I called them and was wondering what heads to buy that I could slap on my 350 just to wake it up a lil' and then put on the 383 I plan on building and they told me the 195's. But by posting this I'm sure I'll open up a can of worms... disregard this post! LOL :yes:

220's? Planning on stroking the 350? I called them and was wondering what heads to buy that I could slap on my 350 just to wake it up a lil' and then put on the 383 I plan on building and they told me the 195's. But by posting this I'm sure I'll open up a can of worms... disregard this post! LOL :yes:

Increase displacement? Oh yeah. I will likely have the crank ground if possible or just buy a new one. I wonder if I can shorten the rods also, thoughts? The great thing about this build will be how easy it will be to pull out the engine later, now that I know every wire and connection.

Increase displacement? Oh yeah. I will likely have the crank ground if possible or just buy a new one. I wonder if I can shorten the rods also, thoughts? The great thing about this build will be how easy it will be to pull out the engine later, now that I know every wire and connection.

Just by a stoker kit and have the blocked machined!

I got the new intake lastnight and when i put it on the engine i noticed something, the new intake doesnt have a middle or rear opening. The gasket has a punch out, but im not sure if i should punch it out? I also got 4 metal plates with a small hole in them, what am i missing?

http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-J6VudoJrip0/TpELK3jilEI/AAAAAAAAEIY/MIW1GNKpzKE/s1024/IMAGE_1000001484.JPG

http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-cbnW22pFm0M/TpEK46GkzUI/AAAAAAAAEIQ/eVix0GoEp_w/s1024/IMAGE_1000001482.JPG



The metal plates that fit perfectly over the cooling channel bores.
http://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-ZMVuOyenPtA/TpDK6NOlWTI/AAAAAAAAEG4/e4d1mP1y-Ew/s1024/IMAGE_1000001463.JPG

What intake? That is weird. Why no need for the cooling passages? I'd call the manufactuer and ask them unless someone else has an idea. I have no idea. Sorry.

Its a Edelbrock Performer Air-Gap.

I posted this question in the Engine forum and im told the metal plates are for EGR, to limit the heat back into the aluminum intake. The lack of rear coolant passages ive discovered is common. Since the heads are interchangleable left or right side, they having cooling passages on the front and rear, although rears are not needed.

Its never as easy as just bolting it on :-)

I worked on the rear differential and engine this past few weeks. Christmas came early for me as you will see...


The first thing I worked on was the rear differential. I have not made a final decision on what I'm going to do yet so I thought why not clean up what I have already and go from there...

If you recall it was pretty dirty and grimey to start with:

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-sijoh0cIKWs/To5QUu9tb1I/AAAAAAAAEBg/OfTihtkVNaw/s640/IMAGE_1000001368.JPG

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-mqtoYX7-K2k/To5QeRpZ3vI/AAAAAAAAEBk/l8cBpJCncyY/s640/IMAGE_1000001369.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-UVQ1MKXBykY/To5RYC0IKpI/AAAAAAAAECA/Ip577RSvEcY/s512/IMAGE_1000001375.JPG

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-gIn_qG0YqVc/To5RgmkDpHI/AAAAAAAAECE/kTIElnEWCRM/s512/IMAGE_1000001379.JPG

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-CV05NDpF0_A/TeBGcQO2u9I/AAAAAAAABPE/vtPB1yy9nj8/s512/1000000279.JPG


The first thing I did was spray some engine bright foam all over the housing and axles tubes.


https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-2o-kzpGO258/To5SFYtcylI/AAAAAAAAECU/B_JJSxcUqVQ/s512/IMAGE_1000001384.JPG






As you can see it helped remove the thick grime, but it didnt make it spot less.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-J-rcn1o3Z44/To5SP9jaVdI/AAAAAAAAECc/nIgG6HCCesw/s640/IMAGE_1000001386.JPG




Once the thick grime was gone I used a wire brush and chisel to remove the medium thick stuff. At this point my carpel tunnel was killing me so I decided to take the diff down to San Jose Steam Cleaning to blast the remaining grime.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-NsxTfxGqKCM/To5TeUdw5QI/AAAAAAAAECs/gz3YcxC9OdA/s640/IMAGE_1000001394.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-fEW8e3KtpNU/To5TpKyUWII/AAAAAAAAECw/lGL9KBvLHLk/s640/IMAGE_1000001395.JPG

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-YJthbw_9KVo/To5TzdxkEFI/AAAAAAAAEC0/1tSQ9YDXgD0/s640/IMAGE_1000001396.JPG


At this stage it's still not ready for paint...continued..

continued....


I then grabbed a fine wire brush attachment and mounted it into my drill (as you can see in the picture) and went to town on getting down to the paint metal.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-xjyYzCm4g7Y/To5USlHJLtI/AAAAAAAAEDE/6guGr_NS0Ok/s640/IMAGE_1000001399.JPG

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-JfVOJb8vnnw/To5Uc_L8TKI/AAAAAAAAEDI/2RsHkJbdCPs/s640/IMAGE_1000001400.JPG

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-t0MuWzRSgQw/To5UmmAs7iI/AAAAAAAAEDM/LV2daGtaBjE/s640/IMAGE_1000001401.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-cRPeOt2CGqA/To5UwE_cSkI/AAAAAAAAEDQ/i-RTXUaIoxc/s512/IMAGE_1000001402.JPG

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-DkJrfUxZK80/To5U6QUZONI/AAAAAAAAEDY/k_gIEvCIVjQ/s640/IMAGE_1000001403.JPG








As you can see the wire brush attachment worked like a charm. It's now ready for priming and paint.

I used a dupli-color sandable primer, although I would have opted for a self-etching had I had any left.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-C08kXju_aFE/To5VHeaAD8I/AAAAAAAAEDc/Ki-HWDKGPRU/s640/IMAGE_1000001404.JPG


https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-rdHmiGaK5KI/To5VSvjOSRI/AAAAAAAAEDg/eUtt3ow0dqg/s640/IMAGE_1000001405.JPG

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-R2oLK8fkbdg/To5Vca8Q0RI/AAAAAAAAEDk/HcMHlwXztqM/s640/IMAGE_1000001406.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-0EZxemeUHx4/To5V9EGcFuI/AAAAAAAAED0/vi3rqYKi_8o/s640/IMAGE_1000001409.JPG





I didn't do anything to the cover, I figured if I keep the diff I will change the cover to a chrome model.

I did however open the diff to check things out, here it what it looks like inside:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-UAv5lmUDE4I/To5cYQaLnrI/AAAAAAAAEEo/jXgeSHyAzfM/s640/IMAGE_1000001426.JPG




The oil looked pretty narly, but the ring and carrier looked fine. I don't know if anything has been replaced since 1968 but it all looks and rotates smoothly.

ok, now onto the good stuff. I went online to jegs and bought everything I need to finish the engine (except the headers).

Friday night I felt like a kid waiting for santa to delivery my presents, except it was Fedex and they were very late - no milk and cookies for them!

Here is what I bought:


Edelbrock 1721 Fuel Pump - 110GPH, 6 PSI

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-_j6MnNB60aQ/TpDHkzKvEoI/AAAAAAAAEFU/a6cqkJOQ5Pk/s640/IMAGE_1000001437.JPG


Edelbrock 26014 Performer Air-Gap Intake - Endurashine

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-V6C7ni0UnCo/TpDHuvEywWI/AAAAAAAAEFY/BXk5Ik_l-nY/s640/IMAGE_1000001438.JPG



Edelbrock 14064 Performer 600 CFM Carb - Endurashine

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-rOX1rmhARn8/TpDH4oov7sI/AAAAAAAAEFc/MRwf9kAE-mg/s640/IMAGE_1000001439.JPG



MSD 8362 Street Fire HEI Distributor

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-c0H_EVW1NA8/TpDIC0hz7WI/AAAAAAAAEFk/NSIr94wimxo/s512/IMAGE_1000001440.JPG


Weiand 9240P Long Neck Water Pump

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-xVG7MGMPUL0/TpDILlHckWI/AAAAAAAAEFo/PVUMsz7oLn8/s640/IMAGE_1000001441.JPG





Milidon 32100 Windage Tray
Chrome 12 point intake bolts
Jegs 40621 Billet Dist. Hold Down
VC Wing Nuts
Edelbrock Fuel Line

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Gl8XwOyj0Bc/TpDIU5jl-QI/AAAAAAAAEFs/a-JBEA3mhhM/s640/IMAGE_1000001442.JPG




Moroso 20190 Oil Pan
Chevy Tall Chrome Valve Covers
Bowtie PCV breather

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-RHpIm6kMafM/TpDId0emhaI/AAAAAAAAEFw/OocB3cKawng/s640/IMAGE_1000001443.JPG




Once I unboxed everything I had to do a "test" fit....

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/--_ODFvxlc8g/TpDKQ9iURfI/AAAAAAAAEGo/Lc2wvEElAKU/s640/IMAGE_1000001458.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-NjsyK120HzA/TpDJ2PLiNGI/AAAAAAAAEGY/AQwtwf-wj8I/s512/IMAGE_1000001453.JPG




As you can see, everything looks awesome!!!!!



..

So that brings me to yesterday. The first thing I did was test fit the windage tray with the oil pan. The front extension bolts hit the pan, leaving a 1/4" gap in the front. So I pulled out a hacksaw and cut about 3/8" off the top of the number 2 cap bolts. The rest cleared without issue as the pan slants.


https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-sJWn4ki_pWA/TpDL7Ei50HI/AAAAAAAAEHY/XJAppvfhVIY/s512/IMAGE_1000001471.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-vFVqsBeAwJo/TpDMEqzUgxI/AAAAAAAAEHc/ypoFf0VtmkU/s640/IMAGE_1000001472.JPG

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-8cekWU9oTHg/TpDMO4m1gII/AAAAAAAAEHk/Z8Wp_rvqm0Q/s640/IMAGE_1000001474.JPG


I used grade 8 nuts and lock washers. I threaded one nut onto each bolt, then a flat washer, then the windage tray, then the lock washer and a final grade 8 nut to hold it all down.

This left about an 1/16" clearance gap between the rod caps and the tray surface. I thought this seemed a bit tight, so I adjusted the nuts and washers and was able to get it to about 1/8" to 3/16" clearance. I hope this is acceptable?


I then installed the oil pan gaskets and front and rear seals, placing four beads of blue RTV silicone overlapping the gaskets and seals.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-A_OobBMd0r8/TpEKCmuLEQI/AAAAAAAAEH0/k6Tco3G2Qrg/s512/IMAGE_1000001475.JPG

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-CMCh81I7mNY/TpEKLj3A6iI/AAAAAAAAEH4/zF5Rzizmetw/s512/IMAGE_1000001476.JPG




Finally after resetting the oil pick height I installed the pan. I placed a long of silicone bead between the front timing cover and pan lip.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-uAmoSp4vy5U/TpEKcMeyZQI/AAAAAAAAEIA/62KnqISARN8/s512/IMAGE_1000001478.JPG



And that wraps up the bottom end.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-QxteisreuF4/TpEKl6sStuI/AAAAAAAAEII/uzSGw4QOc7U/s640/IMAGE_1000001480.JPG

Today I wrapped up most of the top end.

First I placed some high temp tack around the water ports on the heads and then installed the gaskets.

Before I put the intake on I realized I needed to install the lifters, rods and rockers. I put bearing lube on all contact points and then adjusted to zero lash in the order of cylinder firing. I then pre-loaded the rockers by giving the rocker bolts an extra half turn.


Now for the intake. I added a bead of blue RTV silicone around the water ports and put a thick bead around the front and rear openings. Edelbrock indicates that a rubber seal is not to be used. I then set the intake in place.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-d2dON95e4Gs/TpIJzkX4SjI/AAAAAAAAEIg/KVenNBPFRr8/s640/IMAGE_1000001485.JPG

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-7t273EFjB3Q/TpIJ9GHJKOI/AAAAAAAAEIk/q71II9zsa-M/s640/IMAGE_1000001486.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ykza0XHhwYo/TpIKFtxWkaI/AAAAAAAAEIs/5eHXQaOLJjM/s640/IMAGE_1000001487.JPG



Here are the sealers I used, its a coincidence that they are all Permatex.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-tcpE4Vwb098/TpIKQREFHfI/AAAAAAAAEIw/Y32DXCuEF3k/s640/IMAGE_1000001488.JPG


I then installed the carb, distributor and valve covers.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-BU7RxEBo11w/TpIKZRWvUTI/AAAAAAAAEI0/NhsEaaBHgpQ/s640/IMAGE_1000001489.JPG



Later this week I will focus on the balancer, water pump and fuel pump. I need to get a new fuel pump rod as I've misplaced mine.

I am literally days from mounting this into the car so that I can install my front suspension.

:beers:




...

Nice progress. The rear and engine both look great.

Today I wrapped up most of the top end.

First I placed some high temp tack around the water ports on the heads and then installed the gaskets.

Before I put the intake on I realized I needed to install the lifters, rods and rockers. I put bearing lube on all contact points and then adjusted to zero lash in the order of cylinder firing. I then pre-loaded the rockers by giving the rocker bolts an extra half turn.


Now for the intake. I added a bead of blue RTV silicone around the water ports and put a thick bead around the front and rear openings. Edelbrock indicates that a rubber seal is not to be used. I then set the intake in place.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-d2dON95e4Gs/TpIJzkX4SjI/AAAAAAAAEIg/KVenNBPFRr8/s640/IMAGE_1000001485.JPG







Here are the sealers I used, its a coincidence that they are all Permatex.




I then installed the carb, distributor and valve covers.






I am literally days from mounting this into the car so that I can install my front suspension.

:beers:


...


Ramien – Everything looks awesome on the engine and nice job cleaning up the rear differential.
Be careful using Permatex Ultra Blue on the intake manifold coolant passages. Ultra Blue is made to resist oil. For the best coolant resistant sealer look at Permatex #22071 (Water Pump & Thermostat RTV Silicone).
Again, great looking project so far!

Alright, I got the new UCA casters from VPP. Below is what I did to get them to fit (they are 1/2"). First I bought a new grade 8 stud with a .565 knurl. The problem was that it wasn't long enough, so I went online and bought some longer ARP bolts. The black bolt is the original 7/16", the silver is the 1/2" that's too short, and the gold color is the 1/2" ARP that I will be using.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-wRDDKeTBTvQ/Tp9opS6DxaI/AAAAAAAAEJM/7-xEb2jV-6A/s512/IMAGE_1000001495.JPG





As you can see the ARP has a very long knurled shoulder, so I decided to put it on my grinder and grind it down so that it will fit in the new 1/2" caster slug.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-qSNvX5a8WMA/Tp9pTv7yc6I/AAAAAAAAEJw/104F8fMrnT8/s512/IMAGE_1000001501.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-SAPqVJmeoEI/Tp9pmowZ9qI/AAAAAAAAEKA/8uNjQ3kAfQE/s512/IMAGE_1000001505.JPG




I then tested one of the bolts in a piece of metal to ensure it would work.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-QypQDJkFlvE/Tp9o1N8ungI/AAAAAAAAEJU/nJ-hdXQkTW8/s512/IMAGE_1000001496.JPG

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-yntxIcoa_z4/Tp9pLW20HkI/AAAAAAAAEJo/2PZUpn3QQhI/s512/IMAGE_1000001499.JPG




Then I drilled the existing frame holes with a 9/16" bit, used a bunch of washers and set the new ARP stud.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Emw4fo9_aRw/TqNvllUFkjI/AAAAAAAAEKg/yEp8MtF6uD8/s640/IMAGE_1000001512.JPG



Here are the inferior casters on the left, and the new VPP on the right:
http://www.victorypp.com/item/1039

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-xlzahN6m34U/TqNvcZ6RBII/AAAAAAAAENA/ZEQntbNkGpk/s640/IMAGE_1000001511.JPG



The final test with the casters installed into the crossmember, ahhhh, everything fits perfect. The other side is identical.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-NGJRTmnODH0/TqNwC96EZSI/AAAAAAAAEK4/64Z12tFPeZA/s640/IMAGE_1000001515.JPG


Depending on clearance I may have to cut the end of the bolt off, but I wont do that unless absolutely necessary.



..

I also worked on the leafs today...

The new bushings I bought required me to take out the metal sleeve in the eye bushing - this was a pain!!!!

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-XijOS2vIc4E/TqNwgDaCnQI/AAAAAAAAELU/YbCjI17eDT4/s512/IMAGE_1000001520.JPG

Once I removed the bushings and metal inserts I sanded, primed and painted the old leafs.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-TH83281qW4w/TqNwzHOcEnI/AAAAAAAAELk/FpdhOhch6I4/s640/IMAGE_1000001522.JPG

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-FFJUqmjxrBQ/TqNxHjayM8I/AAAAAAAAEL0/TQVA5u6nAeY/s640/IMAGE_1000001524.JPG



I also sanded and painted the brackets as well.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-8prjr4RGLJk/TqNxhWpP5lI/AAAAAAAAEMQ/iLw5yitW-8c/s640/IMAGE_1000001527.JPG



You can see the old black bushings and the new energy suspension polyurethane red bushings.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-cjduUOBVE1E/TqNwpB5FoPI/AAAAAAAAELc/hLfnX8s5DZc/s640/IMAGE_1000001521.JPG




Then I installed them with the provided grease, they went in with ease.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-D9gP29z3MRI/TqNxqPXYDII/AAAAAAAAEMY/WzOgLhrVdPE/s640/IMAGE_1000001528.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-xgVE5ChEX_k/TqNxzQsGFAI/AAAAAAAAEMg/grWetw2BZFo/s640/IMAGE_1000001529.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-yPJ0WTFzw0I/TqNx9BGXQ7I/AAAAAAAAEMo/YoZtEujVPCc/s512/IMAGE_1000001530.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-wh5SypNsB40/TqNyFwvcV6I/AAAAAAAAEMw/vuVX70V9Z6A/s640/IMAGE_1000001531.JPG



Tomorrow I'm going to finish the eye bolt bracket and then install the leafs back into the car with the rear differential. One step closer to lowering the car back onto the wheels. The rear differential is only temporary, I'm going to change it out before I'm done. I'm also gonna go to rear discs as well.


....

Ramien – Everything looks awesome on the engine and nice job cleaning up the rear differential.
Be careful using Permatex Ultra Blue on the intake manifold coolant passages. Ultra Blue is made to resist oil. For the best coolant resistant sealer look at Permatex #22071 (Water Pump & Thermostat RTV Silicone).
Again, great looking project so far!


Thanks for the tip. I did discover this after I did it, I was hoping it would be fine but I guess not. I decided to change it today, it was a pain scraping off the existing gasket.

I used Ultra Grey to seal it this time. I used black on the four corners of where the gaskets meets the front and rear seal, I used ultra blue on the front and rear intake seals as I did before. Thanks!

Looking good. I'm kind of surprised you are re-installing the mono leafs and not upgrading to a multileaf while they were already out.

Just a heads up, the UCA bolts may be a tight fit with headers.

Looking good. I'm kind of surprised you are re-installing the mono leafs and not upgrading to a multileaf while they were already out.

Just a heads up, the UCA bolts may be a tight fit with headers.



Just a budget thing, ive spent so much money already. When i change the diff i will change the leafs.

Just a budget thing, ive spent so much money already. When i change the diff i will change the leafs.

I know all about that! I have a pile of parts in my basement that I have been collecting, waiting for the all to go in at once. Any thoughts on what you'll use for leafs yet?

I don't know, probably something basic like these from Ricks:
http://www.rickscamaros.com/camaro-multi-leaf-spring-assembly-set-four-leaf-1968-1969.html

I don't want to go with a drop leaf and I don't need anything special. There is also a conversion kit that Hotchkis offers that I may get, it's about $90.

Hey Ramien, nice work. You're definitely moving right along.
I got some multi leafs I'll be selling. Let me get the part number and you can look at them. I got them from Classic Industries a few years ago and put a whopping 50 miles, if that, on them!

I don't know, probably something basic like these from Ricks:
http://www.rickscamaros.com/camaro-multi-leaf-spring-assembly-set-four-leaf-1968-1969.html

I don't want to go with a drop leaf and I don't need anything special. There is also a conversion kit that Hotchkis offers that I may get, it's about $90.

You may be surprised at how high the stock leafs ride. The 1.5" drop Hotchkis isn't too low and at $377 from Summit (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HSS-2407C/) it includes everything you need to bolt it in, with the added bonus of improved handling.

You may be surprised at how high the stock leafs ride. The 1.5" drop Hotchkis isn't too low and at $377 from Summit (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HSS-2407C/) it includes everything you need to bolt it in, with the added bonus of improved handling.


Yeah I would like to drop it but with the 265mm rears and the standard wheel well width, Im sure it will rub. I'm happy with the current ride height.

I spent the past few days working on the interior and upper cowl/dash pad.


I used self-etching primer on the bare metal sections:

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-ioqaitfjKGY/TrbSLl-LIrI/AAAAAAAAEWE/h6wlKj2cxqU/s640/IMAGE_1000001585.JPG




The used regular primer after sanding the entire interior.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-iXKiwf8fVk8/TrbSeTLHqMI/AAAAAAAAEWY/dzY-VD393fY/s640/IMAGE_1000001587.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-MTI-0pl79fk/TrbSoCGgkwI/AAAAAAAAEWg/55oYBvUBJ5w/s640/IMAGE_1000001588.JPG




As you see in the above pictures the majority of the inner chassis is in good shape.
I then used some black dupli-color engine enamel on the entire interior.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-MNgKoRYr4vw/Trc1rc3GSlI/AAAAAAAAEW0/AmN9mfpAQUk/s512/IMAGE_1000001590.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-pkdt8qLO2-w/Trc2F4hQ8YI/AAAAAAAAEXQ/BxgQ1EN9ewg/s640/IMAGE_1000001593.JPG

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-sqi43aIIluc/Trc2qRZ09NI/AAAAAAAAEXw/1C5h3x4ETX4/s640/IMAGE_1000001597.JPG

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-po_JN1qJAhY/Tr8L-JrBEaI/AAAAAAAAEYY/5-fAmclw2sU/s640/IMAGE_1000001602.JPG

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-nwXcKfqSirI/Tr8MHv8MpoI/AAAAAAAAEYg/kgIRD_xVJeM/s640/IMAGE_1000001603.JPG




I just received the hushmat yesterday, once the seam sealer cures I will start covering the entire interior with it. I chose hushmat because it is made in the USA and has good adhesion. Also, the price was much lower.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-J5Z8NRSaFcg/Tr8RPSwiXxI/AAAAAAAAEaE/lV9Zvq7fg28/s640/IMAGE_1000001630.JPG

Here are some of the upper cowl. The upper dash pad was sand blasted and powdercoated 80% Gloss Black. As you can see it looks amazing. I then sanded and drilled plug holes, and then I plugged them. I also ran a bead down the edges that mate with the upper cowl.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-HfwBL5AOdnY/Tr9oCrVXrlI/AAAAAAAAEaQ/AN0EMJAh14k/s640/IMAGE_1000001631.JPG

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-hLX5GvldFH8/Tr9oLSe5i-I/AAAAAAAAEaY/tRpBffXgWT4/s640/IMAGE_1000001632.JPG

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-g9TF-IP-F_8/Tr9omPfUgDI/AAAAAAAAEaw/3hogJOXNbGI/s640/IMAGE_1000001635.JPG



I put a bead of sealer between the upper cowl and dash pad before I spotwelded it in.

Finally received the 2nd set of caster plugs. Bought some new grade 8 lock washers and washers, and some nylon lock nuts.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-A4OSv-KnGLQ/Tr9pIjxUZvI/AAAAAAAAEbU/zd45psIqVxc/s640/IMAGE_1000001639.JPG

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-s-r5EDXOkU8/Tr9o_0bJyaI/AAAAAAAAEbM/4VriWsfmuN8/s640/IMAGE_1000001638.JPG

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-pFRbZC58i_M/Tr9ppo8vanI/AAAAAAAAEb0/Wm7pDuWomF8/s640/IMAGE_1000001643.JPG



I will do the final tighetning when the wheels are on and the car is lowered.

When inspecting the new springs I noticed a couple of notches on one side and none on the other. Was wondering if this indicates top or bottom? Do replacement springs for a 68 have a specific orientation?

Top/Bottom?

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-QRpihcOt3mY/Tr9p5WMStqI/AAAAAAAAEcI/tN4O79VxbS4/s640/IMAGE_1000001645.JPG


https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-RqCZmgvoIvU/Tr9pxh4hv7I/AAAAAAAAEcA/RHCSAoXzksI/s640/IMAGE_1000001644.JPG

Here's some pics of the new dash console, I had it blasted and powdercoated the same as the dash pad.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-TAoWlStW_Cw/Tr9rH5Ze7AI/AAAAAAAAEdU/gC0ucS1n6vk/s640/IMAGE_1000001654.JPG

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-T20S4ReR9gI/Tr9rANcJ2WI/AAAAAAAAEdM/b_YRXysJfuc/s640/IMAGE_1000001653.JPG

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-_ZqHIJnBAaM/Tr9rqrTKGnI/AAAAAAAAEd4/3oLJcMH2N48/s640/IMAGE_1000001658.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-kmF_3c-COLY/Tr9rztSt0nI/AAAAAAAAEeA/HmiQTIunSsU/s640/IMAGE_1000001659.JPG

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-zX4L-AR96OA/Tr9rQPU1m8I/AAAAAAAAEdc/AOn00wvf1CY/s640/IMAGE_1000001655.JPG

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-KJAWf9eTF_0/Tr9r7-VKgWI/AAAAAAAAEeI/rGOkF6qcKxI/s640/IMAGE_1000001660.JPG

Wow this car looks great so far. Love the work you are doing. Really nice job on the upper cowl. That is a handfull project and it turned out really nice. Great welds as well.

Wow this car looks great so far. Love the work you are doing. Really nice job on the upper cowl. That is a handfull project and it turned out really nice. Great welds as well.

Thanks Mike! Yes, it was a handful, but it gave me more confidence than I could have ever imagined. It was a great introduction to spot welding :-)

I spent most of today getting the new hushmats installed. The first one went in with ease...no tools or adhesives, just peel and stick. It took 37sqft to cover everything from the firewall to the bottom of the rear seats. I think I'm going to buy 78sqft more and use it on the door, rear seat, rear speaker deck, and in the trunk.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/--ZGpHX2PbmM/TshVz4vlNBI/AAAAAAAAEe8/8pvqYV50cr0/s512/IMAGE_1000001673.JPG






And the rest was a piece of cake as well. As you can see the 1/8" stuff lays down and molds to the contours very nicely. I used some Nashua foil tape that I had to seal any cuts in the material. The viscoelastic material is very pliable but the foil backing isn't.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Xy8cvd4mqKc/TshV82I0OLI/AAAAAAAAEfE/w8ljJJUTPhk/s512/IMAGE_1000001674.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-9n5PUQpL9B4/TshWQteoRFI/AAAAAAAAEfU/ffzWtnUy1ME/s512/IMAGE_1000001676.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-QaIxUnbZ3Zs/TshXEvAYKUI/AAAAAAAAEgI/6g4RrGnqQ_U/s640/IMAGE_1000001682.JPG

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-LKzZqctlI5w/TshXO8p5iCI/AAAAAAAAEgQ/q3xCyakagT0/s640/IMAGE_1000001683.JPG

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-eoBzOJg7Tgo/TshWZ-YaxAI/AAAAAAAAEfc/yFLnC98Vvs8/s512/IMAGE_1000001677.JPG

Friday evening I rented an internal coil spring compressor and installed the coils, struts, and brake system.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-ySOXpNLmub8/TshXXyTSG1I/AAAAAAAAEgY/6SsKvqyLzP8/s512/IMAGE_1000001686.JPG

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-x6gPXnYX3wM/TshXggJvpbI/AAAAAAAAEgg/BbcYimCmSeg/s512/IMAGE_1000001687.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-vXmp1oCxgiI/TshXpt1QFYI/AAAAAAAAEgo/8Ly1Hux1QMg/s512/IMAGE_1000001688.JPG

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-j-mYopSXDCA/TshXzB7lE9I/AAAAAAAAEg0/aVmDWkaSoOk/s512/IMAGE_1000001689.JPG


The struts are edelbrock and match the rear. The brakes I got from ss396, I liked the drilled and slotted rotors plus the system came with a booster and master cylinder.
I'm going to work on the trunk or heater core tomorrow, not sure yet.

Looking good so far! Any updates?

Yes, ive got updates. Been waiting for some parts to come back from blasting and powdercoating. I just got them today.*

I had the rear brakes completely restored, i bought the rebuild kit from classic and had the backing and drum powdercoated.

http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-IZuWDcbeOu4/TvFlqyXrKAI/AAAAAAAAE58/wn-fdx2nISk/s1024/IMAGE_8EC02424-D37F-4692-A7C0-D6568FDD1400.JPG

http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-ENpPY78nmhE/TvFl1QpNhWI/AAAAAAAAE6M/Iryvk8wKCcc/s1024/IMAGE_EFBDD3B1-B5B3-4035-BAC7-7F3B03B246B4.JPG

http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-mj2B7Nw-6Lw/TvF1bFLGOwI/AAAAAAAAE7U/ZT2J2Q9WLRY/s1024/IMAGE_33E2F7B8-A180-435F-9C22-31745081E7EE.JPG

I reused the cylinders as they were fine, and i polished the wires and ebrake bracket. Everything else internally is new.


I will have more updates tomorrow...

Looks clean.

Where to begin....I've done so much in the past month.

After I installed the interior hushmat I started work on the heater box. Here is what I had to work with.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-6SmpTJLeDZM/Tt2m61lMcnI/AAAAAAAAEhQ/5IT-5tDxN5M/s640/IMAGE_1000001696.JPG

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-okoVyNrkids/Tt2nD_fhK5I/AAAAAAAAEhY/RmBIhvuaFUg/s640/IMAGE_1000001697.JPG

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-POMlKs4EdJs/Tt2nVaVndzI/AAAAAAAAEho/yI4cK6Gy4BY/s640/IMAGE_1000001699.JPG

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Df-ao0RQIH8/Tt2ndo_1RHI/AAAAAAAAEhw/NYG7BEsjtKI/s640/IMAGE_1000001700.JPG





The first thing I did was take it all apart and place every part in a labeled ziplock. I can't tell you how much this has helped me keep everything organized. I then sent the box down to bead blasting and powder coating. Here is what I got back:

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-OnUR6ToXcbo/TvK0zR2h5lI/AAAAAAAAE7c/fK8PD9n09r0/s640/IMAGE_D9D4932E-75A1-4B7D-B9E3-31209B31F28F.JPG

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-0JuimbOkl64/TvK03hiRejI/AAAAAAAAE7s/siXkfnTtP08/s640/IMAGE_5B66E47B-D054-4016-A35A-5DB57C99C994.JPG



YES, that is the same box as above. All the rust was blasted away and the underlying metal was still very thick so I didn't need to replace it.

I also bought a new core and seal kit.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-fLzYz9CLG6Y/TvK1CQnj9-I/AAAAAAAAE8U/-3FBSimtmRM/s640/IMAGE_25D2C5E9-C224-4F07-ACE4-C905F417ACCE.JPG

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-zi3mBGGNWpI/TvK1AOqJALI/AAAAAAAAE8M/G7IzbeUu4zY/s640/IMAGE_AC3B3487-9166-4D6D-891F-BC171B1DF5F3.JPG

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-ZHwFGqWd3no/TvK1EOCDi3I/AAAAAAAAE8c/vDlzUlCYh-w/s640/IMAGE_AD80A642-E110-43C4-B2E5-1AF0EBDFEF5A.JPG


I used a 6" wire wheel bench grinder to clean each and every bolt, washer, wire, plate, bracket, and screw. Some parts I sprayed a clear rust inhibitor specifically designed for exposed metal (for the parts I didn't plan to paint). Thankfully only the butterfly bracket that held down the heater core was rusted beyond repair. A leaky core! I found a replacement at my local GM salvage shop. After smoothing each part I painted them with dupli-color hi-temp paint.

I will upload one of the fan blower and assembly tomorrow.

Good job. I didn't even think of powder coating mine. I just sprayed it! Oh well. Keep up the good work. If you want those leafs I talked about earlier, here's a link to them http://www.classicindustries.com/camaro/parts/*rl12.html
Like I said earlier they have about 50 miles on them! $150 plus shipping or I can maybe meet you in between... Salinas?

Wow, you are doing some nice work. I am envious of the amount of time you are able to give to your Camaro. I'll try to turn that envy into inspiration for the New Year, Thank you for sharing and keep up the great work.

Yes, the powdercoating adds duribility and if the coater takes his time he can make it look amazing after it's cooked. I just got back the glove box, Antonio spent extra time powdercoating it again and finish polishing it...I'm speechless of the quality. The dash is not as nice, but it's the flat portion that really matters I think. Once I'm over the fear of reopening the glovebox wrapping I will take a picture and post it. I think I might save that for last though...shrug!

Here is another update from over the long break. I finished painting the rearend and installed it into the car. I used Duplicolor hi temp gloss black. It looks real nice.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-GdPfO7g3GdE/Tt2o3NxbRxI/AAAAAAAAEjI/2XCincCJHjY/s640/IMAGE_1000001717.JPG

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Z6vpu7y0O7w/Tt2o_s0BWSI/AAAAAAAAEjQ/sAp7BGvBv_o/s640/IMAGE_1000001718.JPG

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-gb2Nk2Z5PAc/Tt2pH7PxnHI/AAAAAAAAEjY/VFOJdqn1cM0/s640/IMAGE_1000001719.JPG

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-OGs1a4oFve8/Tt2pRMn4WNI/AAAAAAAAEjg/ALLIdUn28Ug/s640/IMAGE_1000001721.JPG




I then opened it up to finish the interior cleaning. As you can see I removed the carrier and spiders.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Qf_5O7_6NqA/Tt2pbDOcnlI/AAAAAAAAEjs/Q3X0cu3DAIY/s640/IMAGE_1000001722.JPG

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-XTwfqn6qK4A/Tt2pleI9PyI/AAAAAAAAEj0/Vx7lWk8bbVc/s640/IMAGE_1000001723.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-V88HuaRaMro/Tt2qHo7ji2I/AAAAAAAAEkU/yzswYKhWKxo/s640/IMAGE_1000001727.JPG



I then installed the new leaf spring shackles and then the front leaf mounts.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-zZbO3UCb25M/Tt2q4xUbLYI/AAAAAAAAElI/k31AD2ppuMc/s640/IMAGE_1000001742.JPG

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-l89QcH58Fng/Tt2rIx9RAgI/AAAAAAAAElY/lYjRHo12x1Q/s640/IMAGE_1000001744.JPG


I then decided to put back my rear differential, temporarily, just until I can order the new posi and RP gears. It also helped me free up some space in the garage.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-BG1K58TUbDE/Tt2qhF5LswI/AAAAAAAAEkw/yM5c1Ph4d9k/s640/IMAGE_1000001737.JPG


As you can see all new red bushings and zinc coated bolts make it look sweet!


.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-zKYldmzzAxE/Tt2qY_6TQ7I/AAAAAAAAEko/vKKzhgaNmks/s640/IMAGE_1000001736.JPG






I then bolted up the lower part of the shocks. Once I get load on the rear I will install them into the uppers.


https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-bG_tkgcm1YY/Tt2qo7ZdoDI/AAAAAAAAEk4/E5aSHGowo5k/s640/IMAGE_1000001738.JPG


https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-SC3FLUOBfCA/Tt2rA9bzl4I/AAAAAAAAElQ/zx9hS5Q2ERI/s512/IMAGE_1000001743.JPG



Once that was complete i installed the newly refurbished rear brakes onto the axle housing.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Rxe20lLMHlE/TvPhEfheVkI/AAAAAAAAE9I/zzEXtZxZhiU/s640/IMAGE_11C5560F-C4BC-490A-AE0D-FB9DC190D633.JPG


.

Just yesterday I installed the heater box with some 3M strip-calk. My vette buddy told me about these. I really liked how easy they were to install, and the seal is perfect.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-uaOIpVtGBLI/TvPhGZ6NZTI/AAAAAAAAE9Q/4HShUFRH5vo/s640/IMAGE_2C931F6B-FD10-4CAC-A619-81906E733F7C.JPG

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-VNBHGObjjh8/TvPhIvNDHlI/AAAAAAAAE9Y/KcfgU_PE3PM/s640/IMAGE_08758FA0-D23D-4104-B3D5-F7FDF4093E74.JPG

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-8g5wo1kXo2E/TvPhPaj_wEI/AAAAAAAAE9w/9BP4CXcdjZU/s640/IMAGE_3EEF4F2E-208D-4C6D-8733-4C3A8DDA88FC.JPG

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-0WPZWNHNLu8/TvPhNPvKv8I/AAAAAAAAE9o/nIHtYhEkwGA/s640/IMAGE_0664E421-D97D-4A48-BBE7-0AD874A3940C.JPG

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-RZ4CgDhoTEA/TvPhK1wiXcI/AAAAAAAAE9g/3ApqfUFzWAs/s640/IMAGE_A1DB1BBF-CA92-4FA5-8028-4DB268452042.JPG

I also installed the control wires after wire brushing them to a shine, and painting the rubber housing.

I also worked on reburbishing the starter motor and the power steering box.

I didn't take a picture of what the starter looked like before, sorry, only after.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-nAyushGJkVQ/Tt2rRidkIlI/AAAAAAAAElg/Ox6HpZVhFpE/s640/IMAGE_1000001753.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-OvwxQYu-O8Y/Tt2rbc5YmJI/AAAAAAAAEls/zQhNoaDrSRA/s640/IMAGE_1000001754.JPG

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-MDohsjP-OJM/Tt2rufzfufI/AAAAAAAAEl8/E-i9zltN7t0/s512/IMAGE_1000001757.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-HDr6utz4G4Y/Tt2r3m8HmYI/AAAAAAAAEmE/JSoOBbMeAOM/s512/IMAGE_1000001758.JPG

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-YjXb9NB1akE/Tt2sLixB6xI/AAAAAAAAEmU/gvyAhnFhhdw/s512/IMAGE_1000001760.JPG



The first thing I did was use the 6" wire brush to clear all surfaces, I also had to use a mini handheld grinder to get in between the tighter spots. I also used some red scotch brite pads to polish the main cap.


https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-rmsdD8psQPs/Tt2sfB1z_vI/AAAAAAAAEmo/NIeYIOrUMc8/s640/IMAGE_1000001762.JPG

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-0IiZWlhCb-s/Tt2sm1qlv0I/AAAAAAAAEmw/ontMWO9cRN4/s640/IMAGE_1000001763.JPG


As you can see it's better but not yet ready for paint.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-EWBpNIt1KhI/Tt2svjYDUYI/AAAAAAAAEm4/a-ZCHlMjzrc/s512/IMAGE_1000001764.JPG

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-K0rYScCD-U0/Tt2s37fD_KI/AAAAAAAAEnA/ts7fnObCWuE/s512/IMAGE_1000001765.JPG


Oh, I also worked on the pitman, idler, drag, and inner outer tierods.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-9x2vSBlevXQ/Tt2sVhEeFQI/AAAAAAAAEmg/6e_4PmDSkrw/s512/IMAGE_1000001761.JPG




And in the end it....darn 10 photo limit ;-)



.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-MpArcB7joVI/TuQC17ACnxI/AAAAAAAAEnc/EK9437blah4/s640/IMAGE_1000001768.JPG

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-2k3orj1wbSc/TuQCyusFMqI/AAAAAAAAEnU/eCVahTR5PI0/s640/IMAGE_1000001767.JPG


I will try and take a better one tomorrow, it's already installed on the car.

Thanks everyone, im enjoying this build immensely.

Here is a picture of the finished power steering box.

http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-TvDnIY1rSug/TvqbddhzIcI/AAAAAAAAFDg/tW0r6U6shaU/s1024/IMAGE_F91BF8F8-2A28-4C31-8951-49412558BCB9.JPG

And the new ragjoint.

http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-eTdrSGzZ4vU/TvqbfB-y1NI/AAAAAAAAFDo/dSacJcAPUDY/s1024/IMAGE_9809DD3D-071A-401B-9C1D-FFDE69272838.JPG


I worked on the front brake lines, booster and master today. Will post these soon.

Here is an update from last week.

I bought an American Autowire set on ebay for a really great price. All I can say is that I love the kit. It's so easy to install and is very detailed. The kit comes with a dozen or so smaller packages. The kit is meant to be completed in order, although deviating seems to work fine. Each package is labeled front body or engine or console, and each wire is printed with the function as well. The instructions are also very detailed and include great illustrations of each connector and what it's used for.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-mGgEYIj3Wxk/Tu_JP-3cJVI/AAAAAAAAEuU/Jne0YRKxTOk/s720/IMAGE_0E64F002-339D-4FE2-BE72-E2E1B8054B86.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-HsvteWuD5eQ/Tu_JTsDRfqI/AAAAAAAAEuc/TqhUfgiE308/s720/IMAGE_99CC38FE-3A3B-4A4B-AE05-7E0917D62FDB.JPG

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-5k8P6SWlnIM/Tu_JXP3KQEI/AAAAAAAAEuk/i9T_Cd_-rqk/s720/IMAGE_6CED906F-D1BD-4F56-9D93-CC378E91474C.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-gyh_LxlGZ2A/Tu_QqfPugGI/AAAAAAAAE4w/oCmObGTHTqI/s720/IMAGE_8A758E43-F59A-4C49-A46E-8057BD4C0B0C.JPG

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-GWuk0q593hs/Tu_QuFkcBzI/AAAAAAAAE5A/RIGg95C2Z_I/s720/IMAGE_F1D5FA4E-7DB7-48BE-9159-2366967863C9.JPG

As you can see its got tons of extras for power windows and doors, acc, and a really kicking sound system. Also, the kit comes with fuses and horn relays.

Here is what my old fuse panel looks like. Is there value in this or should I just toss it?

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-IQhfxhjfdTM/Tu_QFJ8d_TI/AAAAAAAAE2w/xYBH5DQwLTU/s720/IMAGE_F9295AD3-DCE3-445F-96C9-70D6DE364E4F.JPG

I've been working pretty often on the car since I'm on vacation all week. I sent a bunch of metal down to the powdercoaters last week and one of the packages I opened upon return was the brake assembly.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-d3GviLT1i70/TvkmA_U8anI/AAAAAAAAE_g/0NOIsFYeekA/s720/IMAGE_23F7699C-C9E2-4AF9-9E99-6CE53BCFC83E.JPG




Here is what it use to look like.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-D2HZDh1dr1o/TuQEOz5f_qI/AAAAAAAAEsM/8p80YD1WC7w/s640/IMAGE_1000001803.JPG

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-RmORDkBB3J0/TuQERjJ9qiI/AAAAAAAAEsU/TTiSs4I-qkM/s512/IMAGE_1000001804.JPG

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-A-miollbgrc/TuQEbgtlq3I/AAAAAAAAEs0/gzlwb-nm-WM/s640/IMAGE_1000001808.JPG

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-_B1bEtGb8Ec/TuQEmKJxo1I/AAAAAAAAEtY/DBJOE7guSSg/s640/IMAGE_1000001812.JPG



One of the first things I did was clear all of the metal pieces (all original pieces).

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-SN9uYmF-bPA/TvkmHpVLzqI/AAAAAAAAE_4/PDmaX2y7Mho/s720/IMAGE_825F3712-B3DD-4D5A-9572-56812A829B48.JPG

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-klQB7TRFZBg/TvkmKNH784I/AAAAAAAAFAA/d5Nqkk2l1hQ/s720/IMAGE_0558AEBA-5344-49B3-8FDD-443D993A84C3.JPG

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-GO6sBF_l8OI/Tvkmc37rZvI/AAAAAAAAFBE/LDhiB3wHIs4/s720/IMAGE_2FBDC37A-CC71-4FFF-8021-516DCA976B61.JPG


And here it is all put together:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-QyD15L065cA/Tvqa-T8r_DI/AAAAAAAAFBQ/sIbWJfg9qQM/s720/IMAGE_F00D91FC-26AF-4EF5-AF73-3444D280A298.JPG

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Gi-ItmTQNx0/TvqbDyF2JuI/AAAAAAAAFBo/DYFYY2bfQDg/s720/IMAGE_60E02510-EADF-46F2-A03A-769A11B9D196.JPG



As you can see its night and day. I am so amazed by the transformation. Again, I'm using all of the original parts.

I also started work on the gauges:

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/--AdN2HIBcm4/Tu_Jkk3ktVI/AAAAAAAAEvI/uPDrvtlhduE/s720/IMAGE_E3F60E98-C093-4433-922A-9D70EF1B9504.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-RAHhY3lTbDg/Tu_JhIcz2ZI/AAAAAAAAEvA/zUGis8c3zmg/s720/IMAGE_E797CCBB-C33E-4F40-809A-C7191C348F90.JPG

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-4vmi-LNNDvc/Tu_JoKtyaTI/AAAAAAAAEvQ/Tlm36Uuleyw/s720/IMAGE_203B923D-13CC-438B-B1DB-5FA40DE114E6.JPG


For some reason the two pieces have different shades, any idea why?

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-uaGLuAFydik/Tu_JrSQ-GWI/AAAAAAAAEvY/32LDiiHtgZI/s720/IMAGE_FBDA425B-EB10-4F61-BED1-79D1A8A54AE1.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-McaPPwSInwE/Tu_JzkZVGEI/AAAAAAAAEvs/W2Y55iPyaks/s720/IMAGE_4025D768-F13E-4E0D-BE0D-B7554332C018.JPG


Its real hard to tell but the old lens is pretty scratched, so it will be replaced.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-NyPsu7NZFpc/Tu_JurdnCXI/AAAAAAAAEvg/-q1T-d3ufD8/s720/IMAGE_4FE99E8C-A053-4214-8DFF-3446C6A5030F.JPG

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-NMXsl9FyPNU/Tu_KIS9ooxI/AAAAAAAAEwc/-yNGqkFTkwY/s720/IMAGE_9204835E-B7F8-4330-8757-0ED95B114625.JPG


I will be reusing all components.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Sb8kZlTam-Q/Tu_OsX3xgZI/AAAAAAAAExA/_4JTooIvbL4/s720/IMAGE_8CA637F7-6E48-4C1F-8B9C-0DA05B303E9F.JPG

I used RustOleam 2 cover satin light blue.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-bVIQPgeXFjM/Tu_QzMM_kXI/AAAAAAAAE5Q/Jg9f6ZSLQTo/s720/IMAGE_624229C4-D47D-4409-9B32-C85FF61567DC.JPG


I used red scotchbrite on the circuit board pads, it cleaned the contacts very nicely.

Here is everything after they've been polished and cleaned. Just like new, a little elbow grease is all it cost.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-LUpj5Aa8s2Y/TvFmXNeYvNI/AAAAAAAAE64/Gi9_pS9BuG0/s720/IMAGE_C09A25B7-CD14-41C5-B6A1-C0CC162274C1.JPG

WOW, great progress. Everything looks great so far. You could probably sell the old wiring harness. Not sure how much you would get for it, but if it's complete, then it's probably worth something to someone. Does the new wiring kit come with all the harnesses already crimped? If/when I get my car back from the body shop, I will be re-wiring it as well.

Keep up the great work, and keep the pics coming.

Very nice work and attention to detail on the bolt-on items!:thumbsup: That will make the difference between a decent job and a SUPER job! Looks awesome!:beers:

Thanks, its been a long project, but very fun!

Does the new wiring kit come with all the harnesses already crimped? If/when I get my car back from the body shop, I will be re-wiring it as well.

Yes, the kit comes with everything pre-crimped. Where stock connectors are not provided, new components and connectors are. Its a really nice updated kit with many accessories.

Sorry, updates coming soon!

Yes, the kit comes with everything pre-crimped. Where stock connectors are not provided, new components and connectors are. Its a really nice updated kit with many accessories.

Thanks. I almost pulled the trigger on this kit from MCB, but found out last minute that my car was going back in the shop for a big round of rear end upgrades. I'll have to wait until I get it back to order the kit and do the wiring. Luckily I have all winter, so no rush here.

Updates when you get a chance.....

Long overdue, the holidays were hectic. Luckily the funds didn't dry up, this build is right back in full swing.

Let's catch up....

As you can see old parts clean up just nice. These are the brake and dash support bolts.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-efAknEbwc2w/TvPhRZIOf6I/AAAAAAAAE94/bxIhqyLkKxo/s640/IMAGE_C834A524-D593-42EB-8D87-1A954F7C88AD.JPG

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/--nATL375cWc/TvPhTtDkYKI/AAAAAAAAE-E/QDN6Fohi5-M/s640/IMAGE_F8AB2DDB-3F2F-4925-A9EE-DA4F73DEF959.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-A2UMIh8g00g/Tvqbbrk2u4I/AAAAAAAAFDY/AmE_onRlhUU/s640/IMAGE_44A2BF10-85D1-4BEC-AFA7-359DE21EC7AB.JPG


Next I worked on installing the brake lines. I bought all new from Steves Camaro in South SF. The two piece front to back is a bit tricky to get into the right location. You need to hand bend certain areas just a little to get it in.

The rear end installed with ease:

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Fr_kwdo1XQI/Tvkl2GW6sxI/AAAAAAAAE-0/IaGbp154wHw/s640/IMAGE_475C119E-B591-4AD3-8DBD-175B0D04EEF4.JPG

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-kdnjvxEQowA/Tvklx5B3deI/AAAAAAAAE-k/JjCG_pMZGdM/s640/IMAGE_127A825E-6211-4492-A954-66DEB2ABA791.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ZbM7TJekdrw/Tvklz1amynI/AAAAAAAAE-s/gTGdxx1qw_Y/s640/IMAGE_03F7C80A-3125-403F-9CD2-9EC9EB094578.JPG



After getting the rear and front to back brake line (not pictured above) installed, I started work on the booster and master cylinder. Thankfully both were bought new last year, although they didn't look so good anymore.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-HhGH_iP3xiU/TvqbIpxIIAI/AAAAAAAAFCA/O3nqDz_ERbc/s640/IMAGE_1623A3FA-D5F5-41A6-93AF-0B7C496E9F1B.JPG

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-wgueSEd8ZOA/TvqbKRysnPI/AAAAAAAAFCI/g12rAGGTGVo/s640/IMAGE_73556469-7DEF-4E8F-BA4E-B12113A853B5.JPG

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-gt_a_Pg6_N0/TvqbLxW89pI/AAAAAAAAFCQ/ZwkuEbog1W4/s640/IMAGE_1D8FEB23-5192-4683-B145-E4A2ECB818D4.JPG

I used the wire wheel to polish it up:

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-AVRAwbuov3c/TvqbPUtdPlI/AAAAAAAAFCk/FImOIsLddcM/s640/IMAGE_D90BC690-CAD8-42BE-AF3F-2E28B3597883.JPG

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-JlO9gj-l4Vw/TvqbRFWl6pI/AAAAAAAAFCs/kB_nUDDD96U/s640/IMAGE_D8160B7A-76B8-4182-B212-64465DAFCE5F.JPG

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-HhGORp3on2Y/TvqbTOBxAnI/AAAAAAAAFC0/n8ZxyVhkQLo/s640/IMAGE_353D67FA-2921-4450-8BAE-FB41C7C718B3.JPG

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-RM4E1mgp4aY/TvqbVNZvM7I/AAAAAAAAFC8/_oPINpIL9rE/s640/IMAGE_064554DB-3E5E-4019-8A89-97BD4192B824.JPG




I then used high temp black engine paint and it came out like new! I think I might powdercoat it though, I'm thinking a mirror finish will make it pop!!!

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-yvwpsNkUZYY/TvqbibdkjCI/AAAAAAAAFD4/pu0AaMIF9NM/s640/IMAGE_EF527EF1-76C0-425C-8CF4-32E346AE52EB.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-X8aLHN0WIDw/Tvqbj_fd6dI/AAAAAAAAFEA/Ha4TSuxMRGk/s640/IMAGE_CAD4F572-E9A6-4250-B6BB-DD14D4F27CE9.JPG

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-kGZhQWzDX6w/Tvqbli6ZZ6I/AAAAAAAAFEI/uGJH9u9FyT8/s640/IMAGE_38F3CF86-3AD3-4E04-9568-DE96BD826C52.JPG

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-rSvGjw6eadY/Tvqbte7AWBI/AAAAAAAAFEs/OWCMef1ox1A/s512/IMAGE_D1A35A71-912B-4C30-A785-9EB379621DEC.JPG

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-MYFQcwzttDw/TvqbvhIDJqI/AAAAAAAAFE0/0vL4fafWnUs/s512/IMAGE_FF3E3DCD-4F2C-4201-A11D-006251B032D6.JPG

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-zvBXMMzO_Nw/TvqbxSkZnII/AAAAAAAAFE8/P-yacr9s43Y/s640/IMAGE_8CFBD2E6-CB22-44E8-988B-3173E7E88E10.JPG

I then began work on the wiper motor:

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-rxpL_9FAQAs/TvvFS1r_0vI/AAAAAAAAFGc/hdezETFGQsk/s640/IMAGE_6AEF93EC-B399-4018-9B67-9A889B328ECD.JPG

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-aIKj0Ll4Lrk/TvvFVRxsg6I/AAAAAAAAFGk/7SEqDhlkufQ/s640/IMAGE_B2915779-FAEB-49AF-B76B-CD56DFA8B280.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Y26Z16fAu2I/TvvFXkgJ3nI/AAAAAAAAFGs/bQvxjg8EK78/s640/IMAGE_C2629661-7F0E-4F17-8A36-7D9D911703D1.JPG

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-98_VaPrQdG4/TvvFZ4qGbhI/AAAAAAAAFG4/cruVHItYwYE/s640/IMAGE_ED579DDF-44F6-4EE4-B3B0-6D0183614D5C.JPG


I used the wire wheel to clean it off (this was my new favorite tool).

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-prb4Iv7ugy0/TvvFeU9uhXI/AAAAAAAAFHI/Kymw2cWPado/s640/IMAGE_D00B4486-089C-47F1-A074-DE4B4AA7C477.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-XJ3bN3KXu-Q/TvvFgoaJpII/AAAAAAAAFHQ/crw7d4ikNqI/s512/IMAGE_E802300E-909E-4801-97EE-B078BF0EB9B3.JPG

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-5LkB88ZTg4g/TvvFmTrp1yI/AAAAAAAAFHk/314K1HAByiw/s640/IMAGE_41E3A600-0982-4E04-8CC9-C6F708BF5C04.JPG

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-lZc_qTX75XQ/TvvFixkavZI/AAAAAAAAFHY/ljCW2hBCLgQ/s640/IMAGE_08AB8E81-7210-44C2-8D37-9CFDA89E0C61.JPG


I wasn't afraid to open it up and take a look...


https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-lyJ_HU-F2rE/TvvFq_wGqTI/AAAAAAAAFH0/WSzmesHa1Lk/s640/IMAGE_F2486222-6E83-43A9-A947-47F53444A6CB.JPG

Next, I painted the outer shell, making sure to tape off all contacts.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-26AH8I4cqBE/TvvFv02wXcI/AAAAAAAAFIE/c-YsIyyfUKg/s640/IMAGE_AEB4D078-A8D3-4EBD-99CD-BD63E9F2CC80.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-RZ8CIMfuI-8/TvvFx_UU6HI/AAAAAAAAFIM/L13Sq1whyLk/s640/IMAGE_A222CC85-0951-468D-B1BE-3C7EF3744D5D.JPG



I used plastic paint on the electrical housing.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-bOvczDt1wBg/TvvFzwG9lFI/AAAAAAAAFIU/frig7DlqUJQ/s640/IMAGE_5C54BAE8-C0E9-4B4D-A88D-B5493D4DBAF1.JPG


https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-gKgXGajbKbU/TvvF2RVS2lI/AAAAAAAAFIc/923XjfuKpZs/s640/IMAGE_9A59711C-E4D0-4CC0-BA63-6F0FA57A33AD.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-sMzTWFOgHUM/TvvF80Vg8eI/AAAAAAAAFI4/7eYOKDoA4Hw/s640/IMAGE_70B4C6C2-9DD2-42C7-8189-77596F633A7E.JPG

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-DHMGjVnMoSM/TvvGBOYQkfI/AAAAAAAAFJI/vuzinXLEAao/s640/IMAGE_21B57A52-90FC-41EF-B339-B9BAA2089C6E.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-NAg_vSrqeXA/Tv6Fy7WBCHI/AAAAAAAAFJ0/jkdXLnloE84/s640/IMAGE_99F06705-E584-4DCE-9EC1-A4C78A7E5457.JPG




The just cut off the old contact and secured the new one with a small screw. I'm sure there is a better way (the right way).


https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-H1hXjCAtD3g/Tv6F3ic6u9I/AAAAAAAAFJ8/wWRe7MxriIY/s640/IMAGE_619944CD-C04A-4C0E-99C6-76F5CEF97653.JPG

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-6n5etLqZaMs/Tv6F8hn_zwI/AAAAAAAAFKU/om-88OjARwY/s640/IMAGE_CF7A3309-F162-4A35-AA5E-7A5BD82E7DC7.JPG

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-7RJI1GNFiXA/Tv6F-R50BKI/AAAAAAAAFKc/GFQBxLWeilY/s640/IMAGE_F3CA4320-C030-40DF-ABBE-04C039344A35.JPG

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-nta8OD9vtmE/Tv6GAK_a1CI/AAAAAAAAFKo/RCzJwh9_YjA/s640/IMAGE_604F4F51-6DF2-4F6B-825C-F215F4D596B7.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-jMUpJHMJvoo/Tv6GFADcrWI/AAAAAAAAFLA/bqjkXY9v-eU/s640/IMAGE_BCE7B8FC-3CB2-4FCE-894E-00DF4444AE03.JPG

This was a very easy piece to clean, although it did take a little time.

Next, I received my new alternator and bracket. The finish is near flawless and is exactly what I was looking for. It's a tough stuff 100 amp with a March bracket.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-6GOZr8lPiyQ/Tv6GN48jcnI/AAAAAAAAGGk/oV6AIki9eys/s512/IMAGE_625D8353-2BA1-4507-8398-16DFBB479932.JPG

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-RAeA3VSBF-o/Tv6GTbY12cI/AAAAAAAAFLs/gKM7WJuzwm4/s512/IMAGE_69F5C385-157B-4B5B-A273-403401DC2FE8.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-oKO-fYH6IZ0/Tv6GP-zR-ZI/AAAAAAAAFLk/V-6eagp5qTk/s512/IMAGE_E73F462A-D6CE-4ED6-86FF-96C8516C5C13.JPG


https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-SL3V2pmWdF0/Tv6GU1EiW5I/AAAAAAAAFL0/pimUXXhpHco/s640/IMAGE_A91D5CF4-97B8-4476-B732-EAB2CB949E8B.JPG



Nice simple install, everything fit perfect.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-YjWgoFoyp20/Tv6GWjvhIYI/AAAAAAAAFL8/dMmwf614Xf0/s640/IMAGE_DB71D39B-813E-4997-90C0-63458561FF48.JPG

I like seeing my reflection is car parts :-)

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-zhKPaemptPA/Tv6GYR0zlTI/AAAAAAAAFME/_cuMoX7ByGY/s640/IMAGE_67C8E73D-994A-4CD8-A2D5-FC49CF4435E0.JPG

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-IlMOmszYpwo/Tv6Gb-2c0LI/AAAAAAAAFMM/cRYbChwSejk/s640/IMAGE_42F07EB9-C3D5-4F03-A2BA-9FC08B917916.JPG

I almost forgot, during the final installation of the brake lines I noticed that my front to rear had a different size head than the proportioning valve. So I had to make a small 3 ince piece to connect the rear to the valve to finish the brakes completely.

My first attempt looked like this:

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-ePqs0V5jZkk/Tv6GlC1tPAI/AAAAAAAAFM4/Z_cZH6MHu3w/s512/IMAGE_2838695B-1EA1-491C-B7FE-354D4716B754.JPG

Here is how my flanging went:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-QuvJzRCwkyg/Tv6GmhLyYkI/AAAAAAAAFNA/pqmYU5BrJaQ/s512/IMAGE_70C53F32-6009-470F-B34F-3A7A5631B975.JPG


LOL LOL LOL - What a crappy attempt. Ok so I didn't give up. I went down to the local auto parts store and on their wall to my surprise they already had a piece of tube with the exact fitting I needed on both sides. The only problem was that it was straight and 12" long. I needed a tight curve about 3". I then went down to Harbor Frieght (my favorite tool store) and to my surprise (again), they had a tube bender and a flaring kit. Here is how the 2nd attempt turned out.

I cut the tube to length with the tube cutter supplied in the flaring kit (yeah included in the price). The flaring kit was only $15 and the bender was $5. Will I ever use these tools again, probably not. Was it worth the $20, you decide.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-V4wLiaafI0k/Tv6GqBH5MdI/AAAAAAAAFNQ/piel2Q5gnC0/s512/IMAGE_84C205B0-E72E-417E-A727-3EE45B88F8BF.JPG


I then cleaned the end and used the hand bender to bend the part. Finally, I flared the end.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-lEY1wG-3THo/Tv6GoboLRZI/AAAAAAAAFNI/6AMyeIXlL_Q/s512/IMAGE_F9FC00A8-EEF4-4DA6-BD7D-F9CACB4A5E96.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-QQOa2XzZdx4/Tv6GrzAhKLI/AAAAAAAAFNY/t3_eMzWiPPM/s640/IMAGE_3FAB5439-E05A-4038-9F82-02B5075008A8.JPG

As you can see in the above picture the flare comes in two pieces (technically 7). The top left is the press and the right is the tool that holds the tube.

The finished part is bottom left.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-xFjPyj7TmSU/Tv6Gtqd5AKI/AAAAAAAAFNg/5PjGSuxKFmo/s640/IMAGE_15E51CEE-12D3-4779-8768-A2B09935DE88.JPG


https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-uWOlCi71DGs/Tv6Gy_vKOHI/AAAAAAAAFN8/7gG4LujeKgM/s512/IMAGE_97646F6F-7E50-4D0B-8BB2-F8E23C4EBB3C.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-aGPGfaZ7Xjo/Tv6G0Vf35_I/AAAAAAAAFOE/NR7yj3r5Vlk/s640/IMAGE_667B6EFA-05EB-45BC-8E13-7801F7B99B81.JPG

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-aJi7UNWgCCI/Tv6GvTokYcI/AAAAAAAAFNs/U_AbxIxXr0s/s640/IMAGE_BA3AF874-4618-49BC-8AC8-5DCE42ED5EDB.JPG



Worth it 100%!

I just received my new Summit Racing headers tonight, along with my crank pulley, water pump pulley, and power steering pulley. I will be installing them this weekend.

Nice work. I installed the Summit headers a couple of weeks ago. I had to remove the Z-bar and spark plugs on the drivers side, jack it up and install from underneath. Make sure you protect the headers during install or they'll get dinged up. Reinstall/replace your spark plugs before bolting the headers down. I think #5 was burried behind the pipes.

Nice work. I installed the Summit headers a couple of weeks ago. I had to remove the Z-bar and spark plugs on the drivers side, jack it up and install from underneath. Make sure you protect the headers during install or they'll get dinged up. Reinstall/replace your spark plugs before bolting the headers down. I think #5 was burried behind the pipes.

Yeah, i had to remove the power steering pump and raise the pipes from underneath. My passenger side wont go in all the way, ill have to lower the engine down so that the end doesnt hit the floorpan. The new HEI is so big that i cant lower the engine down to the correct angle until i install my new transmission.

Ramien, Everything is looking pretty good. 2 points though. If you powder coat
the master cyl. you will have to disassemble it first. The heat will most likely
ruin the seals. On the brake lines, they need to be double flared. Here's a link
to one showing the additional buttons required to make a double flare.
http://www.google.com/products/catalog?q=double+flaring+tool&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=shop&cid=7077617721939858599&sa=X&ei=8ZUcT8_tIvDo2gXll7HrCw&ved=0CIABEPMCMAA

Ramien, Everything is looking pretty good. 2 points though. If you powder coat
the master cyl. you will have to disassemble it first. The heat will most likely
ruin the seals. On the brake lines, they need to be double flared. Here's a link
to one showing the additional buttons required to make a double flare.
http://www.google.com/products/catalog?q=double+flaring+tool&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=shop&cid=7077617721939858599&sa=X&ei=8ZUcT8_tIvDo2gXll7HrCw&ved=0CIABEPMCMAA

Oh, that's good to know. I guess I should take that piece back off and double flare it. Will the single flare cause a leak or be more prone to them?

Yes, absolutely. You will need the button necessary to create the double flare.
Your kit does not have the buttons as shown in your picture. It rolls the single
flare back down inside of itself. Take a good look at the flare on the piece you
purchased. You will see the difference.

I put the dash panel in finally. As you recall it was powdercoated beautifully by Spray Tech in Santa Clara. I waited to do this near last because I didn't want to damage the finish.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-WfZTaUw2Ips/TxyM4LFUoDI/AAAAAAAAGUU/ci8Tyk0F2uo/s640/IMAGE_E570D706-C25E-4FA4-9695-B5D6AF650950.JPG

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-QO28Dj5tF9s/TxyM6lh1dPI/AAAAAAAAGUc/KVzxIYAsDm0/s640/IMAGE_D5F88097-C8A9-49F3-A8DF-9315E3157972.JPG


I just tacked initially to make sure it was aligned properly, mocked up the instrument panel, now I'm ready to finish the welds and start installing the glove box.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-0XPuNZ3otUE/TxyNnHHARjI/AAAAAAAAGW8/sdMWwc0LZ1s/s640/IMAGE_B6D93E8E-24E1-4B79-9AB7-D06FC16E9342.JPG


https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-i0yxK8m5HHQ/TxyNpmONDSI/AAAAAAAAGXI/zkvziinpfrE/s640/IMAGE_F435B3DB-A0CD-466D-9027-FF72005EB55E.JPG


I received my new pulley kit and have since began refurbishing the power steering pump...


.

This is what I had to start with, pretty nasty, I even see some orange engine paint on it - rookie move, thankfully not mine :-)

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-yMUNe7CHJpc/TxyNsK8LZJI/AAAAAAAAGXQ/mbW8HXq0Nmo/s512/IMAGE_9C0082A3-3D4D-4E83-9C3B-FFC8C71EBC83.JPG

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-HisXlkLwp_A/TxyNuJ7_GPI/AAAAAAAAGXY/ATJXGbTRFtQ/s512/IMAGE_E6C70974-6DD9-43D1-824E-0194337158D6.JPG

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Isb4ZFShfqw/TxyNyZxEdSI/AAAAAAAAGXo/tan9QX_Xshk/s512/IMAGE_78FC608D-F692-4E66-A77B-E2661CBFFD67.JPG


https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-65wJf4MkHh0/TxyN5Q_qTnI/AAAAAAAAGYE/sNrU9p7SZp0/s640/IMAGE_175290C3-A185-4CAB-81FF-46B47766EF97.JPG

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-7kVrdUSkriY/TxyOS7wZ7tI/AAAAAAAAGZs/I92ASEyypfY/s640/IMAGE_CDB76FF5-6B3A-40C6-9A5D-402A7A736D35.JPG



I began by taking a rag to ever surface. I then used my wire wheel to clean it off and expose the metail. Worked like a charm.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-shoDiegP7Po/TxyOU8HOVTI/AAAAAAAAGZ0/x8IrIYufTMw/s512/IMAGE_7EAA6984-D276-4224-B191-449B9EF63437.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-wojfBwqcyzo/TxyOXPBqu9I/AAAAAAAAGZ8/3seGv8vausc/s512/IMAGE_0F506ACD-FFAE-494F-AC72-7737803B3B60.JPG

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Hw1qOTHdJWw/TxyOZlM_HkI/AAAAAAAAGaI/yY_3oO3PHR8/s512/IMAGE_8CEA5603-7FE1-49C7-B8E4-1DFD1719D3A9.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-DLpXsH9asxQ/TxyOgLC-SWI/AAAAAAAAGag/FnEJABV5lcg/s640/IMAGE_7614BD7A-535B-4BB4-9ADE-A5FF5242FF19.JPG


https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-8A6RWnL81SY/TxyOkOnc1zI/AAAAAAAAGaw/OJMBdvZFG6g/s512/IMAGE_D168513F-DF39-48E0-AB5A-9DAF0C5DF526.JPG

That looks like it will paint up really nice. I did my PS pump/resevoir last summer and I had several small dings and dents to peen out. I got it pretty close then used some metal putty as a filler before prime/paint.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-8KzGp1qU33Y/TxyOo6LiwdI/AAAAAAAAGbE/6HISNKADWp8/s512/IMAGE_482DCA5B-C16B-4713-8471-819436C72353.JPG

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-jE8oit8w8lo/TxyOqzMdmtI/AAAAAAAAGbM/2f-MxaBADkE/s512/IMAGE_FF4B0102-61E7-45F7-817D-F2135FADCB89.JPG

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-vvuELG7bjI0/TxyOs7Dx6SI/AAAAAAAAGbU/AmkN_ndL5c4/s512/IMAGE_B96DC171-7645-456D-877C-071A1884ABE8.JPG




Everything getting a final prep before paint.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-52m31udvAXU/TxyOmZ8N0iI/AAAAAAAAGa4/8IqhEcQ08fk/s640/IMAGE_E15FFF05-2545-4290-AADF-2FBF6BFC982C.JPG





I initially wanted to paint everything red to match the engine, but I decided to powdercoat the resorvoir black and so I've since changed the pumps color.


https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-L5an6ZudyZU/TxyOvP1ShbI/AAAAAAAAGbc/irzA3nQ0T60/s512/IMAGE_487F43EE-0381-4817-9F74-5103FA922158.JPG


I forgot to take a picture during the powder coat spraying process, but I did remember once I stuck it in the oven. This is the point in which it glossed over. About a minute or so in, I left it in for 15 total minutes at 400.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-5f-J75U8Q9g/TxyOy9xeFGI/AAAAAAAAGbs/g00ygsXMO5U/s640/IMAGE_80622D51-B567-44B7-8757-E6BD6DA287F0.JPG



Here's my gun:

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-gVnsxzrcsrs/TxyO4Hg4XdI/AAAAAAAAGcA/uzT7V6pzuBQ/s512/IMAGE_936DC246-48D4-4715-901C-A283B72F688F.JPG


It's ready!!!

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-43vzImbKz7g/TxyO86dwT0I/AAAAAAAAGcQ/hoAQjlvVA48/s640/IMAGE_4680C220-1446-4C4B-AFF3-8733B3D1C1B2.JPG

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-_UnTJJ80yjc/TxyPC0oOxHI/AAAAAAAAGco/a50w7Niqtew/s512/IMAGE_E6CFDE8D-A597-44C4-B0AC-BE7FDD749322.JPG

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-lMsAtp-01Qg/TxzGbLQd9RI/AAAAAAAAGho/IE-_-s0kucE/s512/IMAGE_EB9CE9D9-C5B6-4144-9099-D1D1D52302EE.JPG

The final mate!

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-NbOkNwbC-YI/TxzGcx0y2rI/AAAAAAAAGhw/g5JBw9rmWJw/s512/IMAGE_0E9F7030-652C-4EF9-8034-37648B854278.JPG

Here is what the new pulleys look like. The Water Pump Pulley is a 6 groove serpentine type, which matches the new alternator. With the March brackets everything ligned up perfectly.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-gCYd1gUKvvA/TxyM8nDz-EI/AAAAAAAAGUk/Vf8iEEtwomY/s640/IMAGE_DD8455ED-C6F6-42A4-BEFA-1D3945B0C011.JPG



I had to drill out the lower waterpump screw hole (tapped 90% of depth), the instructions for the bracket indicate that I would need a 13/32 drill and they were dead on. The bolt slides through easily so that the lower ps pump mount can go on.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-egrTcc8P-xk/TxyM_C0yPeI/AAAAAAAAGUs/Mv3u4Z-0il8/s640/IMAGE_0B841466-143E-4712-B3FD-D0AA7D7C8A85.JPG

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-guYDu7OttkQ/TxyNApyfObI/AAAAAAAAGU0/3wjMXxDfuDU/s640/IMAGE_B361751A-7D54-4458-8B64-A5975E7E581B.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-E6WTvMr6vSw/TxyNFKHCM1I/AAAAAAAAGVI/3o5jNwyMUQM/s512/IMAGE_2418A75D-9E16-41DD-951A-7BE6920F8759.JPG

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-sdCCDw0PWoM/TxyN7uHCeCI/AAAAAAAAGYQ/hS_wDZTI2eU/s512/IMAGE_3A0125E5-9745-4DCA-B39F-3EFF1F30A393.JPG


https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-e30-3GeAIr8/TxyN9uuXSFI/AAAAAAAAGYY/F2FE2RG-BJQ/s512/IMAGE_54B34706-7F11-4745-B738-538D42815D3B.JPG

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-gqfQtrByk8A/TxyOFWRAImI/AAAAAAAAGY4/zmX8bC7bOXE/s512/IMAGE_85A97027-9A20-434C-A294-F1870DCCD77B.JPG


NICE CLEAN LOOK!!!

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/--u-WjKWGEsY/TxyN_g6_17I/AAAAAAAAGYg/9vJKF6067Sc/s512/IMAGE_858BCC72-0D1D-494B-A2A6-B9D503FF2B56.JPG

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-GbgeDMyHEUw/TxyOBoQVoRI/AAAAAAAAGYo/NCJy5AtpD6U/s512/IMAGE_B08DA03A-1412-422B-B6C8-99D2038B51F8.JPG



The crank pulley is a 6 groove front /5 groove rear style pulley. The rear 5 will run the power steering reservoir.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-x80CEqi9lzQ/TxyODafbu_I/AAAAAAAAGYw/ICOHT0OLsmw/s512/IMAGE_C4A38165-ABCF-479E-840E-B010089D970D.JPG


I will install the pump sometime this week, it was still drying last time I checked.

Nice and purty:) Good job! How do you keep your gloves so clean?

I installed the new summit headers with ultra seal gaskets as recommended here.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Pxm9JWaEMOs/TxyNRDmFidI/AAAAAAAAGVw/oupS8y0UWlc/s512/IMAGE_2629B840-0E92-4610-98D5-947C7CB57E27.JPG




I had to remove the power steering to install the pipes. Three bolts, thankfully I didnt hook up the steering column yet.


https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Pxm9JWaEMOs/TxyNRDmFidI/AAAAAAAAGVw/oupS8y0UWlc/s512/IMAGE_2629B840-0E92-4610-98D5-947C7CB57E27.JPG



The passenger side won't go on all the way due clearance issues with the HEI distributor. Once I get the new transmission installed the engine angle will be correct and the pipe should fit - I hope!

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-iNY1dYwTfTA/TxyNV7B4ZmI/AAAAAAAAGWE/aCyqoT8p2XU/s512/IMAGE_E11F3EDD-5F68-4DC7-B972-10FB46A715BE.JPG



The quality is ok, not super shiny or reflective.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-r9DViGcC7pk/TxyNaz6rzBI/AAAAAAAAGWU/KaAzn7j27wA/s512/IMAGE_217D1E92-2334-463B-A586-68D631D914DD.JPG



Not really good for show, lots of grinding will need to be done to obtain a smooth finish.


https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ytwpls7BjY8/TxyNdQc1ZCI/AAAAAAAAGWc/LxI5fvDQwcU/s512/IMAGE_786CE003-CEB8-47E5-B562-9BFEDE2D6097.JPG


https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-9rPPNfHAS7g/TxyNfo3OMKI/AAAAAAAAGWk/RCnTUA2f7Zc/s640/IMAGE_C39F9387-E554-4BCE-A560-A5D8682EEDBB.JPG




All in all the engine transformation has been amazing.


https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-yNJrPI8DwD4/TxyNibrNlzI/AAAAAAAAGWs/X2a4KVAwY28/s640/IMAGE_2DF4EADC-1675-4E11-B5D8-02A74233E050.JPG

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-rNx3pkQuKrw/TxyOOQmshGI/AAAAAAAAGZc/XOnlLCaMuAE/s640/IMAGE_F23CEAAC-B3C9-4199-9B7F-D723A718660C.JPG


Parts List:

The pipes are Summit SUM-G9001-9.
Water Pump Pulley is March MCH-6312
Crankshart Pulley is March MCH-6331
The belt is a Gator Auto Poly V Belt
The Power Steering Pulley is March MCH-616

OK, that should bring this build almost current. The last thing I did was spend all day today at my uncles shop sandblasting the gas tank and some remaining parts. His shop is sweet, it has cnc machines, lathes, tooling machines, sheetmetal sheers, benders, etc...

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-ZEcLHeGYvYs/TxyPQL2rswI/AAAAAAAAGdk/EQutBgNANBg/s640/IMAGE_6EC16339-5AE2-40E8-AED4-FEC55D7FDA3D.JPG




The main subject was the fuel tank, it has nasty undercarriage coating on one side and rust and other grime on the top.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-8dXGKDYqBQo/TxyPIgQx-7I/AAAAAAAAGdE/AK633V6aTWE/s640/IMAGE_4A18308E-F877-492D-8331-F1F9837C00EE.JPG



We used a 70 grit silica at 40-80 PSI (100CFM @ 100PSI)


https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/--AjzHFYJxVw/TxyPMWHHKEI/AAAAAAAAGdU/hd8dECoyauE/s640/IMAGE_143C6AB8-7233-4C9C-A7FB-35CB166C30B3.JPG

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-vFyCueVqeFA/TxyPUNKga5I/AAAAAAAAGd0/Hlg_FtLgr00/s640/IMAGE_6BDA8B61-9AEE-46BF-9FE1-FA524FDA7095.JPG



It cuts thru real well, but not as easy as you think. Is it neat to watch metal appear before your eyes :-).


https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-aiXpM4B0NL8/TxyPaD9eB5I/AAAAAAAAGeQ/SUMHDZ5idoA/s640/IMAGE_76BB06E0-0085-4E5C-8D67-7F2B9E62D57A.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-5xurT7y55D4/TxyPcAKC_3I/AAAAAAAAGeY/OWzbsyMeo7w/s640/IMAGE_9D289F81-8F6C-4CE5-BEF9-E043394D2FBF.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-JCm_l5nkp-c/TxyPd04_suI/AAAAAAAAGeg/tF_XgP0-wPY/s640/IMAGE_31E329ED-B41A-40D5-96F7-5BCEEC4A4289.JPG


Flipped over:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ETrOvLWGHTw/TxyPgUBtYzI/AAAAAAAAGeo/523pO4lqN5k/s640/IMAGE_D456489C-5864-4FC6-8B87-C8BCC6B60342.JPG


After about 5 minutes of blasting:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-pq5CDSKjSGE/TxyPiuwwk-I/AAAAAAAAGew/E2V5a2uD-fc/s640/IMAGE_A57FCB29-0983-4FA3-B1A5-C05684D84B6C.JPG

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-X-utuj4E17M/TxyPv8t9ljI/AAAAAAAAGfk/CIlYKelDjfw/s640/IMAGE_39D59541-7097-4355-AF98-85F489EAA193.JPG



It took about an hour to completely strip the tank.

Here are some of the other parts I blasted.



https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-A8diM8_hxbw/TxyPyr3S8nI/AAAAAAAAGf0/crwq--qcNQk/s512/IMAGE_F651B8BB-F884-456C-9F4A-B674E2BB2A8D.JPG

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-QuIgI66Aohg/TxyP1M69B3I/AAAAAAAAGgA/iTqWfI_YcpI/s512/IMAGE_F00F9065-78F8-4EE4-A435-F295392921F9.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-wmPbDaag2Vc/TxyP6y8L0bI/AAAAAAAAGgQ/ZN2K1EpMIQs/s512/IMAGE_17D42E94-D014-4F0B-AD5C-53C1B1EED4ED.JPG

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-0ZdOnr0NBl0/TxyP-LBdTNI/AAAAAAAAGgY/Fto3tN3TWK8/s640/IMAGE_DFD380D6-DC13-4523-AC59-DA54E4B5E455.JPG



The tank then went into the 2nd blaster and a finer 180 grit was used.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-_bm9mKokKx4/TxyQAVsMw4I/AAAAAAAAGgg/lN2hTehLmA0/s640/IMAGE_56AB9DBA-8B98-4511-B42C-8E313A91391B.JPG


We then cleaned the parts with water and then 99% Isopropyl Alcohol to suck out all the moisture.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-JbuC_yI5bjA/TxyQC3oKcqI/AAAAAAAAGgo/ADt5AzcMZXw/s512/IMAGE_D06C91C0-6B8C-40D4-AECD-7FA52C9DEB65.JPG


We then dried them off on racks in a warm room.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-RW81YcVJRXU/TxyQF7fJ5-I/AAAAAAAAGgw/eAgvbB1-VvA/s640/IMAGE_0EF1E205-07B5-47D6-A42D-F14F161E5DAF.JPG

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-W9XLGjOh-Mc/TxyQLGtDOcI/AAAAAAAAGhE/BZ1THvVLsg4/s640/IMAGE_B53FB2E4-8E2A-43B5-A796-325FE954042F.JPG

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-UEMeDDusoMc/TxyQNpctreI/AAAAAAAAGhM/rhC5XqRcqDI/s640/IMAGE_8F6C2643-4269-4F11-9135-43A80F02C8AE.JPG



Lastly we nitrogen sealed the parts so that they wont rust before I paint them.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-v7NIjutnkb4/TxyQQLPDXbI/AAAAAAAAGhU/FntgmttYsIQ/s512/IMAGE_92657614-FC45-4F6A-9C60-F233D2E315DB.JPG

Neat stuff!