So, I went install new headers, and thought this would be a good time to replace the old motor mounts. Everything when great on the drivers side. But needless to say, I broke the head off the lower engine mount bolt on the passenger side, leaving less than a 1/4 inch of the bolt protruding. I have tried everything to get the darn thing out. Propane torch, WD40, Rust Buster, even heated the boss while icing the stud. Anyway, every time I use Wise Grips I can’t seem to get a strong enough grip on the protruding stud. Do you guys know of a better tool with a stronger grip, or another option? I have the motor jacked 3 inches of the frame mount so there isn’t much room to play with. I don’t want to pull the motor for one measly broken bolt.

Hello Marktat,

There is a handy little set of devices that you can use to get the bolt out. They are called "easy-outs". To use them, simply drill a hole in the end of the broken bolt, tap the easy-out into the hole and slowly wrench the bolt out. A word of caution, don't use too big a drill bit or drill the hole too deep.

Hope this helps!! http://www.camaros.net/forum/biggrin.gif

The Trickster!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

yes, I could try those. HoweverI would have pull the motor for access, which I prefer not to do.

If it were my car, I might think about welding a nut on to what was left of the stud and backing it out while still warm. Another idea involves using a oxy-acetalyne torch and heating the area cherry red, wait a minute and spray it with PB Blaster or WD-40 and tapping it around with a center punch. That would be the first ideas I would try along with the earlier suggestions.

Next, I would be thinking about how strong 5 bolts would be instead of the usual 6 untill the next time I pull the engine? http://www.camaros.net/forum/biggrin.gif

-Mark.

Find a socket that will just fit over the bolt and center punch the bolt knub. The, with the socket still in place. Drill a small pilot hole. Use cutting fluid. Then enlarge to the required size for your easy out. You can try both 1/4" drive and 3/8" drive sockets, just make sure your punch fits well before striking. Consider getting a different punch if you can't find a fit.

All this is meant to drill perfectly in the center of the bolt. Heaven forbit you can't get it out, you're prepared for the next step which is drill it all out, retap and use a larger bolt or helicoil.

If you can't look straight down the shaft of the bolt drill facilitate drilling, pull the motor.

-dnult



[This message has been edited by dnult (edited 12-16-2002).]

Try this from Craftsman, I have used it on stripped bolt heads, but the smaller ones may help you remove that sucker. http://www.sears.com/data/product_images/tools/large/00952162000-dlv.jpg

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Our affair with Camaros is a live sentence without the possibility of parole. www.geocities.com/c68ss (http://www.geocities.com/c68ss) http://home.coqui.net/borench

I don't think he has a lot room to work with.

You might have to take a angle grinder with cut-off wheel, cut the bolt flush with block, then as posted above, drill it out with an angle head drill, and install a helicoil.



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Don~ ZZ430DropTop (http://hometown.aol.com/zz430droptop67rs)
~~~~and~~~~
70 RS (http://hometown.aol.com/performancespecs)
67 RS/SS Convertible, 70 RS

Try to heat the surrounding area with a torch, then take a candle and melt it on the threads of the broken bolt. The heat will draw the wax down and Sometimes the wax will act as a lubricant, then use your locking pliers(vice grips). Hope this helps.

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69 RallySport http://www.geocities.com/ralleysport2000/69Camaro.html

[This message has been edited by 69RS (edited 12-16-2002).]

If it's absolutely hopeless getting it out, you could always run a chain or cable on that side just for insurance & peace of mind using the 5 bolts.

Can you drill through the bolt sideways? If so, you might try finding a nut that fits the threads. I would think that a 3/8-16 nut would fit. Then drill a hole sideways through the nut and the broken bolt. Drill the hole as big as you can without seriously compromising the strength of the broken bolt. I would think, that with 1/4" sticking out, that a 3/32 or maybe a 1/8 drill bit would be as big as you could go. After you get the hole drilled, put some kind of hardened pin through the nut and the bolt. Hopefully, you can take a wrench and get the bolt out now that it is pinned to the nut.

If you can't get enough clearance to drill sideways through the bolt, welding a nut to the broken bolt sounds like the best way of getting it out. If you can't do that, I can't think of anything short of removing the motor to get the broken bolt out.

You might be able to remove the frame mount for more clearance if you have to.

Good luck

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69 Camaro
400 Small Block
Trick Flow Heads
Comp 282S solid cam
Performer RPM intake
750 CFM Holley
and a Muncie four speed
Pics of My Car (http://community.webshots.com/user/cgrossl)

Marktat,

I'd try str's(Mark's) suggestion of welding a nut onto it and try to wrench it out. Orench idea looks good, too bad you would have to buy the whole set. Or use it, then return it to the store.

If it doesn't work, and its on the pass side, I'd let it go. The only time the engine is going to twist from the pass side is if you were to downshift to second from 100 mph with the throttle closed.

Stevo has a good idea, install a torque strap on the pass side if you don't want to lose sleep.

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Everett "OBJECTS IN THE MIRROR APPEAR QUICKLY UPON RAPID DECELERATION"

Marktat,
Agree with Stingr69, if you have a mig welder, welding a nut on the broken stud/bolt works really well even if the stud is broken off below the surface of the block (just build the bolt up with welding wire - it won't stick to the cast metal). If you try this method the only thing I would add is use an uncoated nut (plain mild steel). I've used this method for removing broken exhaust manifold bolts from LT1 motors many times and have never pulled a head or tried drilling one out since. Sometimes it takes a few tries but it always works. I've found letting it cool a while after welding the nut on seems to work best and spraying some penetrating oil while hot doesn't hurt either, it gets sucked into the threads. The key here is patience, stay with it and don't let it beat you. It's one of the slickest tricks I've learned over the last 20 plus years. People are amazed when they see it done.
Goodluck, Drew

[This message has been edited by drew69 (edited 12-17-2002).]

I had a similar problem when I was replacing my body mount (behind the engine). They were rusted really bad. The bolt snapped when I tried to take them out. I tried everything wd40, heat, oil. Someone told me about rust eater. I bought a can at the parts store. I sprayed the bolt 2-3 time a day for 3 days. The bolt on the 3rd day came loose right away and I twisted it out with my fingers.

I wouldn't grind or cut the bolt off anymore than necessary to get a flat surface for center punching. Keep your options open. If you grind it off, you've greatly limited the possibility of getting it out.

-dnult

Thanks for all the suggestions. I now have a few options to try. I'll update this post with the final outcome.

A center punch can back out one way lag bolts and the rust eater sounds good. I think the main selling point of the center punch is being able to hit what is giving you problems hehehe. Besides the impacts busting rust and loosening up the binding. The corner of a cold chisel might cut too much and it negates/cancels out all the cuss words that normally work. Been there. After snapping a craftsman bolt extractor the local sears told me it's an accessory not a tool and not covered with life time good times. And I was stuck with a stuck bolt and extractor snapped off in a bolt.
No matter what if in the end you are running bigger mount bolts you'll be happier.

hmmmmmm

Ok, here is the outcome. Nothing worked! So I pulled the motor, drilled through the bolt and tried using an “Easy Out” bolt extractor. Most of you can guess what happened next...it broke. I never heard many success stories about “easy outs”, now I hate them and will never try them again. They are so hard that almost nothing will drill them out. I found only diamond tipped Dremmel bits could work, And I needed two of them at $15 a piece...and 10 hours of tedious work to grindd the “Easy Out” and remaining bolt out. I was actually able to re-tap the hole to stock size. All is good again. Thanks for the advise.

good greif! Sorry to hear that it was such a pain in the neck!

Yah that's about the route I got but helical coils had to be put in. I think some people throw different alloy metal bolts in some places and the metals like to bond or something. Congradulation on getting the job done and not loosing the hole. I'll buy any of the left over cuss words.

Sorry i didnt see this sooner. Next time before putting anything else on the broken bolt use a product called "Silicroil". It is a super penetrating oil the will creep into a crack as small as a millionth of an inch. Let is set at least over night. If that dont loosen up the bolt nothing else will. Try heating the bolt(I know that heat expands .... but when the bolt heats to red hot it expands enough to compact the crud around it and when it cools it leaves a little more clearance. We do this all the time at the machine shop I work at for a local electric utility. Kevin
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68SS 396/375 L-78

Marktat, I don't imagine it is any consulation but I'll bet there are more horror stories about "just going to install headers" than any other job. Would prob make a interesting post for "Bench Racing".
Jus4funn68 (Kevin) where can I buy "Silicroil"? and what the heck is a "Diaphragm Tec"? John