kf6myv
Jun 16th, 03, 08:58 PM
So I have a 67 Camaro 327 bored 30 over with a Edlebrock 7201/7202 cam/intake set. I have a 600cfm Edlebrock 4bbl on top. Rebuilt heads did nutn special to. Stock distributor too. Do have a Mallory coil though. I can get the car to run ok but it is way stinky. Smells like lots of gas going out the back. Not worth drivn to work since it makes me smell. Even just workn under the hood is bad. I usually pull it out of the garage before I start it. What is not right here? How come it runs as good as it does? I have been next to other cars that dont stink this bad.
Snatchin'gears
Jun 16th, 03, 10:47 PM
You are probably running rich. Not sure if you just got the car after it's set around a long time but the fuel might be old. There also might be octane booster adding to the smell effect. The stuff makes things stinky. If the carb and intake are already clean just watch for seepage. You might be borderline vapor lock. The fuel lines and carb will heat up and boil gas after shutting down and cause preasure that forces gas out leaving things smelling like gas. You might be able to hear the process waiting a little while after shutdown. You say you smell like gas so look for holes in the firewall. Keep your windows open and make sure the headers or exhaust manifold is tightened down. Tune the carb for max vacume right. Kinda like setting up your load on the amp graemlins/thumbsup.gif
Nice Collins TSC-15.
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Nothing wrong will all knobs to the right.
kf6myv
Jun 17th, 03, 06:31 AM
Well I don't have the TSC-15 anymore but thats ok. GOtta deal with this car. Oh yeah it has like 9.25:1 pop ups in it too which I am not to crazy about since I seem to have to run expensive gas or I ping. Anyway the stench is only created when running. Maybe it's normal but it seems awfully overwhelming. I do have a buddy at a smog station I may take it to and have him hook me up to system and see what it is pumping out. Just sad that for 3+ years now I have not taken care of this. I don't drive the car much anyway but would like to more. Is it possible that the valves are needing adjustment? Think timing is up to like 10 now and specs say 4-6 but that is stock. Plugs gapped normally as well as distributor. Dual exhaust too. http://tripletmania.com/camaro.htm
Snatchin'gears
Jun 17th, 03, 08:08 AM
Does it really make you smell? That's why I covered leaks so much. It seems some major symptoms of exhaust leaks are covered by the noise "after" starting but if you listen during the initial turning over and start you'll hear the gas escaping/leaking where it shouldn't. Make sure you drive with the window down if you are smelling like gas. Fire extinguisher handy also no matter what you smell like. For a real weird one check your oils smell. Maybe the fuel pump has an internal leak and the gas is going into the oil via the cam lever area and evaporating from there. Could of sworn there was a designed in hole in stock pumps to prevent that though.
The seepage a lot of times isn't gong to show up as fluid. It's just going to be evident by seeing the stains of fuel around the fuel bowl gaskets and lines.
Is the fuel return line still connected? Not sure if your year had the extra lines to the tank from the fuel evaporative system. It's black plastic canister on the front left. Your gas cap might be bad and getting fuel into the canister. Check to see if your gas tank has preasure built up after driving sloshing the gas around.
Better yet, read the manual :D
kf6myv
Jun 17th, 03, 08:43 AM
Well I smell like exhaust which is realy powerful and would say it smells like gas. Standing behind the car is no fun and have had comments before. This car has no charcoal canister. Never did. I don't think it is so much under the hood it is what is not being burnt that is going out the back. I need to get it on a machine I guess. Then I should be able to see what gases are comn out the back.
novaderrik
Jun 17th, 03, 09:55 AM
grab a vacuum gauge and set the idle mixture screws. set the idle screw 1.5 turns out from bottoming. start the car and set the idle where you want it- say, 900 for example. turn the idle screws in or out to get the max vacuum reading- then reset the idle and re-tune the screws until it doesn't make any difference. re-set the idle, and then see how it smells.
as for making you smell like fuel/exhaust- that's just the car's way of claiming you as it's life partner. no biggie. cars can be kind of possessive, and it just wants to let all the other cars out there that you are taken.
kf6myv
Jun 17th, 03, 11:33 AM
Ok which one is the correct screw and where do I hook vacuum. I was getting help w/ the car for a while when building it but then had to put it together all alone so I am not the most knowledgable when it comes to some of this stuff. Carb is a #1405. Been needing to get a vac gauge so I guess it's time ;)
Snatchin'gears
Jun 17th, 03, 12:45 PM
Look for the two smallest screw heads going into the carb on oposite sides of each other. Screw them in till they LIGHTLY bottom out. Don't confuse bottoming out with crud on the threads dragging. Back out 1 to 1-1/2 turns. Start engine. Adjust the jets evenly/equal amounts for each to get the highest vacume. Try going half turns per side. The vacume gauge line is attached to the hose thing-a-ma-jobby you can feel vacume on at the base of the carb. I prefer the intake manifold position. Stop at max vacume.
Your carbs manufacturer doesn't seem to post any manuals for the carb. Possible here after a while you are going to be saying it's still running rich. My advice is to right now search previous threads on this subject using the brand name as one of the words in the search. Like insert rich edelbroch.