1badchevy
Jan 5th, 03, 04:17 AM
I just got a holley carb it's used, the guy had it on a 350. He claim's it's a 750.
I checked a referance list I downloaded from Holley and it say's it's a 650 4150. this is the part # 4777-4
2085
I am going to put it on my 400sbc. The carb worked fine until he let some one mess with it' then it keeped flooding out. I know he messed with the air fuel adj screws in the metering blocks.
My question, Is there a basic or starting adjustment for these? Where do I start?
I would also like to know what size jets and power valve it should have in it? The motor is basicly stock with an rv cam. The heads are stock but fresh and a torker II intake.
thank you
1Badchevy
That refrence list will have the factory jetting listed on it. Get a holley book, there are many but the small red one by Mike Urich is enough to get you started in understand the Holley 4150/4160 carbs. Set everything back to factory specs, bolt it up and tune from there. Search through the Performance and General Tech 2002 forums as others as well as myself have posted on this subject many times...
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...Dennis
"The '69 (http://chevelles.com/showroom/ww.jpg), the '96 (http://www.camaroslimited.com/graphics/memcars/96ss.jpg) our local club (http://camaroslimited.com/)"
and the "daily driver" (http://chevelles.com/showroom/DjD/dsc00016.jpg)
dnult
Jan 5th, 03, 06:55 AM
Dennis is right. Check your jetting, choke settings, secondary opening, float levels and power valves. Holley power valves are prone to blow-out if the engine backfires. Some of the newer Holley carbs have blow-out protection which is a tiny check ball in the base plate to protect the power valve. Older Holleys do not. You can buy a kit to install one if that is a problem.
Use the spec sheet to set everything back to baseline and start tweaking from there. One problem with Holleys is that there are so many adjustments that you can get into trouble. Some folks who claim to be carb experts will apply fixes that they had success with on one engine that are totally whacked on another. Starting at the baseline should give you acceptable performance.
-dnult
Snatchin'gears
Jan 5th, 03, 09:48 AM
Start Here. http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/TechServ/TechInfo/FMCTech.html
Basicly I figured turn the adjustments all the way in till "lightly" bottoming out. Watch out for being confused by dirty thread resistance. Then back both adjustments out 1.5 turns. Then adjust for highest vacume with both side being equal in amount of turns out.
Brah you don't know how much pain I just went thru to re browsing for the page with tech stats for the carbs. Go to Holley's Carburetor Numerical Listing on http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/TechServ/TechServ.html#Carb and you'll get a PDF file you can save. The 4150 covers a wide range of carbs. You might notice the double pumper rebuild has two prices like on Summit. You can get away with the cheaper because it's 4150 and 4160 specific and doesn't have all the extra types of carbs parts and gaskets. The PDF is going to give you helpful info for kits and jets sizes. Good luck.
DOUG G
Jan 6th, 03, 02:43 AM
Air/fuel mixture screws... turn till they lightly bottom out then turn out 1.25-1.5 turns. The float adjusters<on top of the bowls> give them about a turn or two down to get you started.<fuel level with bottom of hole at idle> This should get you started. If the floats are too high this would cause flooding. Also was this "rebuilt" ?
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My '68 Camaro (http://hometown.aol.com/Dougs68Camaro/index.html)
Doug G.
68 Camaro
406 ci.
13.5@102 W/ 2.73POSI.