View Full Version : '91 RS Good Voltage, but No Start


tweeter
Mar 22nd, 05, 09:10 AM
I have a 1991 RS Camaro w/ 305 TBI. I bought it about two months ago and have been doing minor work on it. The previous owner had an alarm system and remote start installed on it. It also has a crossover somewhere that allows it to start with out a coded key. We had a really bad storm awhile back and it set off the alarm. Now, I can not get the car to start. Everything else works; radio, gauges, windows, hatch etc. I checked the voltage at the battery with a meter and it read about 13.54v. I pulled out all the fuses I could find for the alarm system, and still no start. Does anyone have any suggestions or know where I should go from here?

Everett#2390
Mar 23rd, 05, 08:33 AM
You should replace all the fuses and start over. If you have a coded key, you have VATS.

You should, without setting aftermarket alarm, be able to attempt to start the car. If it does not start, or starter motor does not crank over, then stop the start procedure. Wait three+ minutes and attempt to start with the same key.

If engine runs after cranking, I would wager the key tumbler portion of the ignition switch needs changing out, you'll get a new set of keys from the GM dealer, does not need to be Chev.

If the engine still does not start, then a problem with the cross wiring of A/m alarm to VATS may exist.

There is a way to reset a/alarm with the remote. I forgot, ask an alarm dealer.

tweeter
Mar 23rd, 05, 10:29 AM
I have located the VATS cross over, and appears to be working fine. The resistance was 524k ohms. I can only assume this is the correct resistance, b/c I don't have a factory coded key.

Everett#2390
Mar 24th, 05, 04:16 AM
I don't think the resistance values are over 2.5K ohms.

I believe I was told by the GM parts man there are 5 resistance values listed. You may have to take in the VATS unit to identify which key to get.

Everett#2390
Mar 24th, 05, 04:17 AM
I don't think the resistance values are over 2.5K ohms.

I believe I was told by the GM parts man there are 5 resistance values listed. You may have to take in the VATS unit to identify which key to get.

tweeter
Mar 25th, 05, 08:56 AM
I didn't realize that. I'll get in touch with the chevy dealership and see what they come up with. The more I look at it, I'm almost sure that's were the problem is. The only other thing it could be(that I could think of) is maybe a starter problem. But the way that the car is sitting it's not a very good way to jack it up, and I can't get underneath it to cross it over.

Everett#2390
Mar 25th, 05, 03:15 PM
You may want to remove the VATS crossover from the wiring circuit. Anytime one adds a wire to the key circuit, it changes the ohmic value to a mismatch from the key.

The extra resistance added may be in parallel and when the two circuits are tied together, the total resistance changes, resulting in a "NO-START" condition.

Taking the VATS module, and the registration to a GM dealer, you can get the parts you need to match the VATS box. Then you may need the key tumbler for the ignition switch. Then the fun begins because you have to remove the steering wheel, after removing the lock plate, Cruise Control stick, and ten rremove the tweo wires going from the tumbler down through the column to the connector. Pull out the two wires, snap in the two new ones after feeding the new ones down from above, and reconect the connector.

Replace the tumbler, and before adding the wheel, check to see if the engine will start. No sense in putting the s/wheel back on, if you have to take it apart later.

Get a Haynes manual, it'll help.