I have a 91 RS 305 TBi 700R4 auto. Mods include K&N, Flowtech exhaust, & hypertech streetrunner & tstat. It just recently started but seems to be getting worse. When I drive around town at surface road speeds for a while, the engine will just stall out when I stop. When i try to restart it cranks and dies once or twice, then cranks and goes, sometimes starts right back up. It has plenty of power and will do fine on the interstate. I checked the injector spray pattern and it seems ok. No vaccum leaks that I can find. and when its cold or driven for a short distance it purrs like a kitten. I thought vaporlock or electrical but its all good. Will 02 sensor or EGR cause these problems? I get a sporatic check enging light sometimes too, code 32 translates to Baro sensor or EGR. maybe? just dont want to spend hundreds on parts chasing ghosts.

[This message has been edited by exdog (edited 02-27-2001).]

Well,I dont know. It's possible the egr is hanging open a little.I would pull off and plug the vaccum hose to the egr,and try it. It's also possible the coolant temp sensor is bad,reading cold.The sensor has to be way off, for a code to set.Check the connection at the coolant sensor,for corrosion. How many miles on it? How often does it happen.Does it matter how much fuel is in tank? Is your battery,and cables really ,really clean?

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68 z28 ,68 rs 327 ,73 454 vette, 2 goofy kids

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by dale68z:
Well,I dont know. It's possible the egr is hanging open a little.I would pull off and plug the vaccum hose to the egr,and try it. It's also possible the coolant temp sensor is bad,reading cold.The sensor has to be way off, for a code to set.Check the connection at the coolant sensor,for corrosion. How many miles on it? How often does it happen.Does it matter how much fuel is in tank? Is your battery,and cables really ,really clean?

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Battey's good, 112k on it and it doesn't matter how much fuel is in it. The coolant temp switch is fairly new, I got it by mistake instead of the fan switch so I just went ahead and put it in. I got to messing with it today, when I reach under the egr and open it manually it stalls just like I mentioned before. So for now I unhooked the actuator that opens the EGR to see if that made a difference. I dont know it the idle air or throttle position sensor would cause it not to raise the idle to match the increased air when the EGR opens.

My 87 used to stall at every light when I stopped unless I gave it a little gas and held the clutch in before applying the brakes. I changed wires, plugs, egr, etc. Nothing seemed to work. I decided to buy a $3 PVC valve, (even though the old one moved freely), my engine hasn't stalled at a light in over 2 years. Might work for you. Now I have another problem though.