Okay, I have a '69 Firebird, that was mothballed in '78 or '79 for a bad starter (with 85K on the clock). I've got the engine spinning again (new starter) and I have the fuel system sorted (new carb/fuel pump and an external tank). However I don't seem to have any spark. I swapped the coil with a spare I had about, and still no love.

Should I just toss the points/condensor and try again? Any good checks? (I've checked on the coil wire going IN to the dist and it didn't arc, on either coil and nothing at the plugs) the wire going to the positive side reads 12V+. I just hate throwing parts at it, and I'm a trifle tired of messing tonight, any tips?

thanks!

If the points are open, there will be no spark as you rake the primary ign wire on the coil pos post.

DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS NEXT STEP IN THE PRESENCE OF GAS FUMES OR VAPOR !!!

You might pull the dist cap, turn the engine over by hand to close the point set. Now, with either the ign coil wire, or a hot wire and the high tension coil wire removed from the dist cap and 1/4 inch from ground, touch the pos post of the ign coil for maybe 1/4-1/2 second and upon removal of electricity from the coil post, a high voltage spark should occur. This denotes the coil, points, and coil wire are working.

Turn engine over by hand to set the point gap to .019 inches. Make sure the dist cam is opening the point set. Might not be a bad idea to emery paper the point contacts.

You can use a timing light to check for spark with all the wires in the nomal position to ensure ignition system is working. Also, use the light to check initial timing while you are there.

If t/light shows spark at the right time, and still no love, carb does swuirt some fuel into the manifold upon opening throttle plates, spark plugs may be fuel fouled. Remove plugs and dry out plugs or install new ones of same like kind. Gap them at .035 inches. You might even squirt some oil into the cylinders to help lube the piston/ring/cylinder wall. After sitting for so long, they are very dry and cause a major drag on the starter not allowing it to spin over fast enough to develop vacuum.

Make sure there is plenty of oil on dipstick and when engine does start, run it at 2000-2400 rpm for 15-20 minutes, providing the thermostat does open up. Top hose will get hot to the touch.

Check for leaks upon run-in. Repair any major ones. Engine probably will smoke until rings get exercised, say a few hundred miles.

After break-in, I'd probably change oil and filter with oil hot. Check to see and measure the battery to make sure the charging system is working.

Good luck, another barn find with a happy ending!

Thanks, I'm a complete stranger to points. I usually just toss the whole dist and install an HEI. I just hate to remove anything since it's kind of like a time capsule under the hood....actually the first time I've ever owned an F-body with the Muncie backdrive linkage still installed!

I'll try this and report back! Thanks again!

It seems as if a mouse found the distributor wire a very tasty treat. It now purrs like a kitten!

graemlins/beers.gif

That is funny. :D It reminds my of a time when I was working on base and a groundhog climbed up into someones engine compartent. He was chewing and then the owner came and started the car. I think the groundhog got the shock of a lifetime that day... :D