: HELP! installing GM HEI distributer in 67 RS
Mar 3rd, 00, 03:30 AM
Currently I am stuck. I am "Attempting" to update my old points distributer with a GM hei unit, purchased new for a 74 Camaro , I have all the correct parts, (coil, cap,roter,disributer) my engine (327) was in pieces, I recently put it back together. the old wires were everywhere, HOW do I hook this thing up.. ? i see one wire near the distributer that looks like a C connector, (that would go to the condenser in the old distributer) do I use this one for the BAT side? I dont have a tach, and the new distributer is supposed to be internally grounded. but I will run a regular ground wire also..I was going to run a hot wire from the battery, but then didnt want to have the coil constantly hot. help me camaro guru's
Mar 3rd, 00, 03:50 AM
HEI is pretty easy, there is a very good article on it in the tech info section on this www. The quick and dirty: Original had an external coil with a + and a - connection. The Dist (points and condensor) connected to the -. (the tach, too) the + had 2 wires, one from the "I" term on the solenoid, one from the firewall. The HEI has 2 connectors on the side of the cap, labelled BAT and TACH. Discard the original wire from the starter. The original wire from the firewall is a resistence wire. Cut it 3" from the fuseblock and solder on a length of 12 guage wire. Run this wire to the HEI and crimp on a 1/4" spade terminal to connect it to the BAT terminal. You may have to "adjust" your firewall a bit for clearance.
Mar 3rd, 00, 08:18 AM
thanks! I will try it tomorrow morning!I have the wire and the spade clips. hopefully all will go well...
thank you again!
Mar 3rd, 00, 02:53 PM
If you have a self-serve junkyard in your area, find a GM car with a similar body style and an HEI ignition. Remove the engine wiring harness and unwrap it. You only need the section from the HEI to the firewall so you can cut it out of the car as necessary.
Remove any sealant covering the wires as they enter the firewall plug. Using a very small flat-bladed screwdriver (eyeglass size), insert the blade just under the firewall plug wire for the + side of the ignition. This will release the wire from the firewall plug. Practice on a few of the other wires first so you can get the feel for how they remove. Now you have a splice-free wire to work with. Install this new wire into your orignal points wire location on your firewall plug and reseal the wire with silicone. Once you get the hang of it it will be very easy. You may want to buy the whole harness and use the extra wiring for future accessories since there are extra locations on the firewall connections that you can use, instead of drilling holes, to pass wiring through.
Mar 5th, 00, 03:32 PM
It worked! thanks everyone! I fired up my 327 today!!! (well after a few timing errors and a couple of flaming backfires through the carb) my engine came back to life after not being started for 15 years, (I put new fuel tank + lines in to be safe)it wouldnt idle to save its life, I had to keep feathering the gas, I think its got a vacuum leak... I will mess with it next weekend, Ran out of money this week.. heheheh
Mar 6th, 00, 06:11 AM
Great work, Chris!! First Gens Forever! Now if only I could get my front suspension back together, it's been in the upper 60's the past week in Chi-Town and I'm itchin' to get the ragtop on the road!!
Mar 8th, 00, 10:00 AM
I'm not sure what the resistance wire from firewall to oil points unit was, but BAT terminal on HEI must have 12 volts going to it for module to operatate correctly. Your bad idle may be related to this.
Mar 9th, 00, 05:21 AM
well I posted another topic to show you my junker that is being worked on . but here it is here also. check it out at