I just replaced my gas tank on my 69, now the filler neck is to high to put on the gas cap. Is there some blocking that should have been between the tank and trunk, if so what? Also, is the fuel tank sending unit easy to screw up, car wont start, sounds like it isnt getting any fuel??

What's up Paperman! Welcome to Team Camaro. Did you compare the old tank with the new? Were they similar at least in width and height? As far as something that goes in between the tank and the trunk floor, the only thing that I know of is the anti-squeak kit that you can find at any parts warehouse. If it seems that your car isn't getting any fuel, I would start by checking grounds from the sending unit and all other connections that you made. The new gas tank was sealed when you got it, right? What about your fuel filter? Start with this and let us know what you find. Again, welcome to the site and good luck http://www.camaros.net/forum/smile.gif

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1969, X-44, Export Model, Hugger Orange, Std. Int., BT 12 bolt, PDB, GMPP 350HO, M22 Supercase, SSM Lift Bars, AirGap, Holley 750, FlowMaster American Thunder Exhaust, FlowTech Headers, 15X7 Ralleys

An improperly grounded sending unit will only cause the fuel gauge to malfunction. Basically the fuel line is just that, a tube that leads directly into the fuel tank. If your car is not getting gas then you may have a stopped up fuel filter or fuel line blockage (debris or a kink in the line). I would start at your carb and work backwards to the tank to see if there is any problems.

There also should be some sort of anti squeak kit on your tank. I suspect not having this may be why your filler neck seems too long. The kit does add some space between the trunk and the tank.

good luck!

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See my '68 RS/ZZ4 (http://www.100megsfree.com/choptop/camaro.html)

Thanks for the quick replies, I've got carb problems, I guess from the car sitting for 4 months, I got it to start but its loading up and spewing white smoke. I've since learned there was supposed to be 4 rubber blocks on top of the tank to allow space to lower filler neck to the proper height and prevent squecking. I have the rubber on the tank mounting straps didnt know about the other blocking. I guess thats next weekends project. Thanks again for the input!

Even with the blocking and anti squeak kit the repro tanks seem to have the neck a little high. I compared my repro with my original and the neck geometry was a little different. A friend of mine had to bend the neck on his tank to make it fit. I can get my cap on and off no problem, it's a little hard to fill with a gas can due to height though.

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Bob
Garnet Red 69/SS396/TH400/355 Posi ( 454 now)
94 HD Dyna Wideglide

[This message has been edited by phel69 (edited 01-13-2003).]

Mine was alittle high also all it took was a 3/4 inch bar stuck in the filler neck and lightly push it down. Problem solved!!

Phel69, MrC,
Did your rear liscense cover the gas cap?? My filler neck is so high you can see the gas cap. I'll try the blocking from the anti squek kii or what ever I can find at home depot to substitute for the blocking and then try the rod insert bend method as a last resort. Seems like the repro's need to get this resolved!!

i would check the fuel line to make sure that you did'nt pinch it when you put the new tank in. it has a manual fuel pump, not a tank pump like fuel injected cars. a sending unit has nothing to do with why the car won't start. did you remember to put gas in the new tank? http://www.camaros.net/forum/smile.gif hey, i know its a rookie mistake, but it happens to all of us

Nate,
I got it running, floats were stuck, I guess from sitting up for 4 months, holleys are tempremental!

The GM tank is no better, my first tank I bought was GM same deal. The reason I changed the new one is because like a dumb a$$ I left the lift down with the support still under the brand new GM tank. 210.00 down the drain. Push the bottom in about 1 inch my buddy bought for his racer. The repo was identical to the GM only about 90.00 less.

Are there any more hints in fuel tank installation?
How about the rubber blocking, which I don't have, that is mentioned above?
Is it obvious where you mount the rubber anti-squeak strip on the top of the tank?
Don't most of you leave the lower rubber off, due to appearance?
Like communicated above do you literally bend the spout into place?

Most of these questions probably sound obvious to a lot of you. Please remember that I didn't disassemble the car and lack that advantage.

There are 2 strips that run front to back on top. You will be able to tell where they go by there size and width. I just used 3M adhesive and worked fine. There will also be another small rubber block that is used to prevent you smashing you sending unit to the underside. It mounts anywhere in the middle of tank and use the same adhesive. I didn't use the bottom rubber straps but thats your choice. Here' a pic of the placement

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g136/Caman355/gastank.jpg

How about the straps? Is there a rule of thumb for tightening them? Is it possible to tighten too much and bring the tank up to high?

I tightened my straps till most of the gap was taken out of the straps at the bottom and they fit snug to the tank. You don't want this thing moving on you, but you don't want to crush the tank either. I also had an aftermarket tank on my 69 and the neck was too high. Then it developed a leak in the seam. Ended up replacing with a GM tank and the neck fit perfect in the opening, but I see some of the guys were able to adjust the neck with friendly persuasion. If you have new straps, try to shape them around the tank using your old ones as a guide if you still have them. Makes alot easier install. Another key is to get the car as high as you can so the straps will hang out of the way when you install the tank. I haven't seem many installs with the bottom rubber pieces on the straps. I opted not to use them too.

Thanks for the info. I don't believe that I have that small rubber block. What do you recommend as a substitution? How thick and how dense is this block?

It's just a piece of foam, closed-cell type. I think it's 1/4 inch or so thick. I don't know if it's to prevent the sending unit from being damaged or not, but it seems to prevent the sending unit wire from pinching. My OE one was actually over the sending unit wire (wire between tank top and cushion bottom. As long as you use something that won't hold moisture and isn't ridiculously thick and incompressible, you should be fine.

Eric, your right. It was to prevent the wire from getting smashed.