View Full Version : Motor cranks very slow now?


jenndon
May 22nd, 01, 04:19 PM
The starter is a powermaster xs torque mini rated to 18:1 comp, i have 10.5:1 ( i replaced this with a new one ). the battery is brand new ( i tried another batteries just in case) and the car is wired with the painless kit. After changing the starter and the battery i still have the problem so i hooked the battery directly to the starter to see how fast it would crank the motor and it was no different? HELP!!!

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ZZ430DropTop67RS
May 22nd, 01, 04:36 PM
Good ground? Engine to frame/frame to body? Try disabling ignition and if cranking is faster you'll know if timing is problem.

jenndon
May 23rd, 01, 07:52 AM
i hook up the battery to the starter with jumper cables bypassing the ignition and it still cranked slow. after it sits for awhile it will crank fast enough to start the motor and i checked the timming. it won't restart again for a few hours. the car likes it at around 15 to 20 anything lower than 15 it backfries throught the carb. All the cables are good, i made them myself with high grade copper power wire and gold termanials and s sodered them. ive been making cables for 14 years in the car audio industry. I tried turning the engine by hand ( with the plugs in) and it will tur to a point and then i can't move it any more. i'm going to try it with the plugs out tonight. I was able to turn the motor by hand before, did someting happen in the motor maybe?

camaroman7d
May 23rd, 01, 12:06 PM
It is normal for an engine to be hard to turn by hand with the plugs in, you probably also hear a hissing sound when you try this. the reason this happens is because of compression. A engine is just an air pump and if the air has nowhere to go it creates back preasure. Now for your slow spinning starter. I would be willing to bet you do not have a ground from your engine (not your battery), but your engine block or heads to the frame. This will cause the problem you are experiencing. Most production cars have a small ground strap from the back of the heads or manifold to the firewall. I prefer to run a quality ground from the block to the frame. So before you tear anything apart I would make sure you have a nice healthy cable or strap (not 8, 10 , or 12ga wire). Also make sure both attaching points are clean and it is a good idea to use a star washer as well (a little conductive grease wouldn't hurt either).

Royce

68RS/SS396
May 23rd, 01, 03:41 PM
This is only a guess, I am no mechanic. When I installed my starter I had to shim it to get proper clearence between the starter gear and the flywheel. Maybe that could be your problem. Erik

jenndon
May 24th, 01, 08:59 AM
I took the plugs out and the motor is hard to turn by hand. i used a 1/2" breaker bar with a long handle. the battery is in the trunk, it's grounded to the body with 4 ga wire. The body is grounded to the sub frame with 4 ga wire and i have a 4ga going from the subframe to the trans. The reason i did it from the trans is that i'm trying to hide it. i used a meter to chek and the motor is grounded. I was told it could be a bearing? The car would crank and start very easy for the past 4 weeks. Now it would even start. Sometimes it will start if it is cold but if i shut it off, it won't crank enough to restart it.