: Should I Use My Rev Kit Or Not
1965tripleblack Jul 5th, 12, 04:14 AM 327 engine with solid roller makes about 475-500 horsepower at 6500. Crower rods and shift points at about 7200 RPM.
I had slightly softer springs installed in the heads and was using a rev kit at the time. Have recently replaced valve springs with recommended (actually, Comp's "first choice") beehive springs.
Is the rev kit still necessary? If I use it, is it adding too much pressure to the cam and lifters?
Thanks in advance.
Everett#2390 Jul 5th, 12, 06:37 AM Depends on the roller bearing used and the amount of lube the roller gets.
If the roller bearing gets a good supply of oil and the camshaft is hardened, go for it.
With as much RPM's you've quoted, you're changing out springs anyway due to fatigue.
Lonnie P Jul 5th, 12, 07:30 PM A small block turning only 7200 does not need a rev kit if you are using the correct valve springs. Just more parts to break or cause you problems..
What is your spring & cam combo?
1965tripleblack Jul 6th, 12, 04:09 AM A small block turning only 7200 does not need a rev kit if you are using the correct valve springs. Just more parts to break or cause you problems..
What is your spring & cam combo?
Cam is a Comp XR286R (12-772-8). Using Comp roller trunnion rockers, 1.6:1 ratio.
Springs are Comp 26055 installed at 1.920, so seeing about 155 on the seat and 395 at full lift (.610").
Lonnie P Jul 6th, 12, 09:03 PM Keep in mind, you are .620" on the exhaust with a 1.6 rocker.
You are getting close to coil bind which is 1.195"
Spring pressures should be fine without a rev kit.
Personally I would rather see a 1.5 rocker on the exhaust or a spring rated for higher lift.
1965tripleblack Jul 7th, 12, 05:03 AM Keep in mind, you are .620" on the exhaust with a 1.6 rocker.
You are getting close to coil bind which is 1.195"
Spring pressures should be fine without a rev kit.
Personally I would rather see a 1.5 rocker on the exhaust or a spring rated for higher lift.
Coil bind on the 26055 spring is 1.225.
Lobe lift x 1.6 = 0.6224. Deduct 0.018" lash and the lift is 0.6044.
Installed height is 1.920 - 0.604 = 1.316
This leaves 0.091 margin to coil bind.
bcm66 Jul 7th, 12, 06:15 AM 7200 rpms in a 327 with those springs? I think you are fine - NO PROBLEM. You are running a rev limiter, right?
1965tripleblack Jul 7th, 12, 01:09 PM 7200 rpms in a 327 with those springs? I think you are fine - NO PROBLEM. You are running a rev limiter, right?
Yes. Limited to 7500.
So, you're saying I should or shouldn't use the rev kit?
Eleanor's Nemesis Jul 7th, 12, 01:54 PM ARP studs will serve you well if you don't have them already.
A long time ago I raced a 377 sbc with a big (for the time) solid lifter cam....broke a few studs even though the springs were correct and the geometry was dead on.
I can't recall which I did first-install ARP studs or put a stud girdle on-but after I did one I never had another failure. I did the other just for extra peace of mind.
If I were you I would use the rev kit.....better control imo will result in less wear and breakage.
bcm66 Jul 7th, 12, 02:12 PM Yes. Limited to 7500.
So, you're saying I should or shouldn't use the rev kit?
Sorry, I wasn't really clear on that. I would run it.
If you decide not to, at least make sure you have good ARP studs and a stud girdle as Michael suggested.
1965tripleblack Jul 7th, 12, 04:04 PM Thanks. I'll use the rev kit.
Yes, I have ARP studs. Change in geometry resulted in my having to use 0.020" longer valves and 0.025" longer pushrods with my new aluminum heads. The rocker studs that I was using before now have room for the lock nuts to thread on 1/4" less than they were before. This means that the rocker lock nuts now thread onto the studs about 7/16" (about equal to their outside diameter).
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