Battery relocate question [Archive] - Team Camaro Tech

: Battery relocate question


HwyStarJoe
Jan 11th, 13, 04:48 PM
Picking a radiator setup for an upcoming LSx swap into my '69, and trying to decide on something with both hose ports on the passenger side, or split side-to-side. I'm not fond of the idea of a hose snaking across the front of the engine, and it'll be right below the intake as well. Too cluttered.
I've already got a new aluminum rad\fan setup that works great with a small block, but the inlet\outlet are split and there's no trans. cooler fittings.

Can I get away with a remote trans cooler (already mounted in the car now), or is it advisable to have the trans cooling part of the radiator? That's probably personal preference I'm sure.
:)

Thanks

Fred Ficarra
Jan 11th, 13, 05:16 PM
TCI says to trash the radiator trans cooler. Just run a axillary cooler. I guess they find the radiator cooler in the system causes less heat to be removed. I guess.
That's the instruction that came with my new TH400.

HwyStarJoe
Jan 11th, 13, 05:47 PM
That's basically my thought process as well. I haven't had an issue, and why introduce heat from 2 sources to the radiator?
My fan setup is tight so I won't have an issue with it, but I gotta route a house across the front and I wanted to avoid that.

I just wondered if one setup was better for an LS cooling system, or if it's 6 of one and a half dozen of another when it comes to the radiator.

Everett#2390
Jan 11th, 13, 06:05 PM
By OE design, the 4th Gens have a drvr side inlet port on the radiator.
HAs tube running across from the engine, but, has elec fans rather than an engine driven fan, so this bridge is crossed.

I'm sure someone out there has a double pass radiator.
I run an external cooler after the radiator cooler. You can never have the trans oil cool enough, nor have I heard/seen a trans failure for too cool of fluid.

BobKovacs
Jan 11th, 13, 06:44 PM
You can either swap the radiator, or swap the water pump to one with the upper port on the side you want. Gotta check the GTO drive pulley setup to see what the distance from the block is- the F body, Corvette and truck setups are all different distances, but I'm not sure which one the GTO matches.

HwyStarJoe
Jan 11th, 13, 06:54 PM
On the GTO they both face the passenger side. Not sure on the Corvette.
I've seen where people have used an unGODLY long Silverado upper hose to snake up and around and all the way over to the drivers side. NOT happening. I'd rather it be short and low under the intake if I absolutely have to. I'm just trying to get away with not buying a radiator so I have no choice but to do it that way. Or buy a radiator and lose the rear discs.
;)

DOUG G
Jan 11th, 13, 07:00 PM
I really don't think you can over cool a tranny in the 48 continuous states. Just run the biggest cooler you can fit, heat is the tranny killer.
Mine has been this way since I put the first motor in (13+ years ago) no issues.
I'm looking at using my stock radiator (w/ elect. fans) and an upper hose for a 2005 Silverado which goes across the radiator. But there are plenty of ideas you could use....all depends on your set-up.

BobKovacs
Jan 11th, 13, 07:12 PM
Also remember if you want to run the cold air intake like John showed you yesterday, that goes to the driver side, so you'll want the radiator hose on the passenger side ideally.

HwyStarJoe
Jan 11th, 13, 07:50 PM
Yer right Bob, that was my point. My battery is still in the core support so it's gotta go to the drivers side for air.
It just gets cluttered up front there... More decisions! :)

BobKovacs
Jan 11th, 13, 07:51 PM
Fun stuff!

DOUG G
Jan 12th, 13, 03:35 AM
Move the battery to the trunk....not hard, displaces weight, and cleans things up a whole lot :yes:

HwyStarJoe
Jan 12th, 13, 06:30 AM
What I meant was the air intake has to go to the drivers side... not the battery. I'm not in Europe. ;)

And I hear ya Doug...it's always been 'on the list'. I guess I'll need the extra few pounds over the rear now anyway.
We'll see.

Vega$69
Jan 12th, 13, 07:48 AM
Entropy makes a nice LS radiator/fan combo. About $700. Although if you have a good setup now I would get creative with the radiator hose routing. Maybe some polished tube with silicon couplings.

Spectre makes 69 intakes for both pass and drivers side.

http://www.jegs.com/p/Spectre/Spectre-Muscle-Car-LS-Conversion-Intake-Kits/1802659/10002/-1?pno=3&itemPerPage=30

You could move battery to trunk and go that way.

If you go trunk mount battery I suggest you run a solenoid in the trunk so the battery cable is only hot when starting.

HwyStarJoe
Jan 12th, 13, 08:55 AM
I like the thought of a dual-fan setup like the donor car had... two fans, two different temperature thresholds. If he'll let me score that stuff cheaply I'd like to try to fab it up.

Fred Ficarra
Jan 17th, 13, 01:23 PM
You could move battery to trunk and go that way.

If you go trunk mount battery I suggest you run a solenoid in the trunk so the battery cable is only hot when starting.
We would never let him do it any other way.:noway:

HwyStarJoe
Jan 17th, 13, 02:41 PM
As long as my golf clubs still fit....
;)

BobKovacs
Jan 17th, 13, 06:01 PM
You've got a least a year before you're driving to the golf course based on how slow your swap is going. Plus, you won't have any $$ left over for greens fees......lol

HwyStarJoe
Jan 17th, 13, 06:32 PM
Awww now come on... I just got the ball rolling 2 weeks ago! This thing'll be rollin' by Spring!
:thumbsup:

BobKovacs
Jan 17th, 13, 06:37 PM
It's "Rollin'" now- getting it runnin' will be a different story....lol

Ordered my water pump and the brackets to make my drive system work today. Check out Lsbrackets.com- he has some smart and inexpensive (relative to other drive packages) ideas.

HwyStarJoe
Jan 18th, 13, 05:05 AM
Cool... I'll check it out. I need to delete the A/C compressor.

67Rally
Jan 19th, 13, 09:44 AM
I remember seeing on LS1tech that the LS3/L76 waterpump outlet were on the driver's side. I think they would fit your LS2 if I'm not mistaken.

I just picked up an LQ9 yesterday, and will need a water pump with a driver's side outlet. And I read that the L99 Camaro water pump will keep the truck accessory spacing, with a driver's side outlet.

**don't quote me on any of this. I'm an LS newbie at the moment.

HwyStarJoe
Jan 19th, 13, 11:15 AM
I hate to start cracking bolts on this thing (just brought it home this morning!), so I think for now I'm just going to work with the current setup. I can always mod things later on if I have to.
But that's good info to know Brent. :thumbsup:

67Rally
Jan 19th, 13, 11:20 AM
I hate to start cracking bolts on this thing (just brought it home this morning!), so I think for now I'm just going to work with the current setup. I can always mod things later on if I have to.
But that's good info to know Brent. :thumbsup:

I'm in the same boat. Just brought it home last night. I was going to start pulling it apart today but I think I'm going to wait until I can get it onto an engine stand before trying to disect this thing.

DOUG G
Jan 19th, 13, 11:22 AM
Truck set-up.....same way I went.(not my car)

http://i752.photobucket.com/albums/xx162/crazyshopmonkey/LS%20Swap/IMG_0021.jpg

BobKovacs
Jan 19th, 13, 11:28 AM
The 2010-2012 Camaro water pump is a driver side outlet and lines up with the truck accessories from what I heard. I went with a 2000 Camaro pump to clear my throttle body and ordered spacers from lsbrackets.com to bring it out to align with the drive belt. I don't have a radiator, so I'll just order one with both outlets on the passenger side.

67Rally
Jan 19th, 13, 11:37 AM
Here's the 2010-12 L99 waterpump (#19207665) on an LY6 (truck) engine:

http://cjnn.xtremefabricator.com/images/LY6swap/ly6swap59.JPG

67Rally
Jan 19th, 13, 11:58 AM
And '05-'07 LS2 vs '09-'10 LS3/L76/LS7/LSA water pump and part #'s:

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y20/PerthPurplePenguin/car%20parts/wp_03.jpg

HwyStarJoe
Jan 26th, 13, 01:55 PM
You could move battery to trunk and go that way.
If you go trunk mount battery I suggest you run a solenoid in the trunk so the battery cable is only hot when starting.

have a battery relocation kit coming... what type of solenoid do I need to wire in?

Fred Ficarra
Jan 27th, 13, 12:46 PM
have a battery relocation kit coming... what type of solenoid do I need to wire in?
Joe, get the furd type. It has to be in line with the positive cable. Wire it to activate with the starter motor 'crank' wire. That wire is removed from the starter and led to the furd solenoid that's close to the battery. Yeah, you might want to run that wire under the seats, or just lead it under the car. Anyway, the solenoid on the starter is wired with a jumper from the main cable so as to activate when the armature receives juice.
Simple and safe. No power is in any of the wires unless cranking.

Vega$69
Jan 28th, 13, 07:03 AM
Joe, get the furd type. It has to be in line with the positive cable. Wire it to activate with the starter motor 'crank' wire. That wire is removed from the starter and led to the furd solenoid that's close to the battery. Yeah, you might want to run that wire under the seats, or just lead it under the car. Anyway, the solenoid on the starter is wired with a jumper from the main cable so as to activate when the armature receives juice.
Simple and safe. No power is in any of the wires unless cranking.

You can NOT jumper LS starters.

You can run the starter wire to the starter and and the solenoid.

HwyStarJoe
Jan 28th, 13, 07:58 AM
I think I know what solenoid it is. Same one I replaced in a friends '68 Cougar? Is there a simple diagram how it should be wired up? There are posts on it that probably don't get used, correct?

67Rally
Jan 28th, 13, 08:59 AM
You can NOT jumper LS starters.

You can run the starter wire to the starter and and the solenoid.


I am going to run into this same problem with my LS swap. What word is missing between "and and" in the above post???


I think I know what solenoid it is. Same one I replaced in a friends '68 Cougar? Is there a simple diagram how it should be wired up? There are posts on it that probably don't get used, correct?

Something like this? Obviously I won't use the I terminal.

Here's a pic of the solenoid in my trunk, this was for the SBC. I'm curious as to what Vega$69 meant in his post, since I had my starter jumpered with my old setup.

http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee208/modi_photos/Pictures002x-1.jpg

Vega$69
Jan 28th, 13, 10:26 AM
I am going to run into this same problem with my LS swap. What word is missing between "and and" in the above post???




Here's a pic of the solenoid in my trunk, this was for the SBC. I'm curious as to what Vega$69 meant in his post, since I had my starter jumpered with my old setup.



This is the LS starter and the S plug/wire that goes to is. You can not add a jumper. You need to pigtail your S wire/purple to this wire and run the wire to the solenoid in the trunk.

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m158/Johnthaxton/LSStarterLS_zps041dd220.jpg

HwyStarJoe
Jan 28th, 13, 11:00 AM
Got it... thanks John.
I assume from this that I only need the BATT positive cable run up front and nothing else? Unless I need something to go to the IGN or Neutral SS? I should probably plan that scenario as in the first diagram, correct?

Fred Ficarra
Jan 28th, 13, 05:39 PM
I think I know what solenoid it is. Same one I replaced in a friends '68 Cougar? Is there a simple diagram how it should be wired up? There are posts on it that probably don't get used, correct?

Something like this? Obviously I won't use the I terminal.
Did I miss something? What's with the red cable leading to the solenoid and then to the starter from the same terminal on the solenoid? That just makes the solenoid a junction block.

Fred Ficarra
Jan 28th, 13, 05:52 PM
This is the LS starter and the S plug/wire that goes to is. You can not add a jumper. You need to pigtail your S wire/purple to this wire and run the wire to the solenoid in the trunk.

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m158/Johnthaxton/LSStarterLS_zps041dd220.jpg
John, so the weather-pack wire in the background somehow plugs into the starter? Then it's joined to the purple wire and led to the furd solenoid?

Vega$69
Jan 28th, 13, 06:11 PM
John, so the weather-pack wire in the background somehow plugs into the starter? Then it's joined to the purple wire and led to the furd solenoid?

Yep. It plugs into the spot just below the two lugs in the picture.

Fred Ficarra
Jan 28th, 13, 06:25 PM
Yep. It plugs into the spot just below the two lugs in the picture.
I'll be damn. What'll they think of next?;)

5JGF
Feb 6th, 13, 08:04 AM
I have done a good amount of searching and cannot find clear info on mounting a battery in the trunk of a 69 Camaro with an LS2 engine using the Ford Solenoid. I am not clear from the information in this thread on what to do. Could someone please explain how they did it or if possible please provide some type of diagram? I have several pieces parts for it so I don't need to buy a kit. Thank you in advance.

Vega$69
Feb 6th, 13, 08:44 AM
I have done a good amount of searching and cannot find clear info on mounting a battery in the trunk of a 69 Camaro with an LS2 engine using the Ford Solenoid. I am not clear from the information in this thread on what to do. Could someone please explain how they did it or if possible please provide some type of diagram? I have several pieces parts for it so I don't need to buy a kit. Thank you in advance.

OK

Mount Battery in trunk.

Mount solenoid next to battery. Run positive side cable to Bat side of solenoid.

Run Positive from load side of solenoid to starter.

Connect main Battery Positive for car power to Bat of solenoid.

Run neg side of battery cable to frame ground.

At this point you have all electrical wired to power the car. The only thing not hot is the long cable from solenoid to the starter.

Now run a wire from the starter wire/S terminal (purple) to starter and pigtail off another wire and run it to the trunk mounted solenoid terminal.

So now what happens is the long battery cable is not hot until you turn the key switch to start which sends 12V to the solenoid. The contact in the solenoid closes and energizes the cable to the starter.

The car starts and the key is released so the solenoid opens and the power to the long cable is cut off.

In this picture the Battery Cable is attached to the solenoid, I also have the main wire from the fuse box and the wire to my sub woofer amp attached.

The purple will attach to the top of the solenoid and a large positive cable will be attached to the large lug on the left side of the solenoid and run to the starter. ( the blue is from my fuel pump relay and will go to my in tank fuel pump.

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m158/Johnthaxton/69%20Pro%20Tour%20Camaro/LSBatteryInstall_zps4cb8b015.jpg

HwyStarJoe
Feb 6th, 13, 10:34 AM
Small RED going over the wheelwell is the main power to the BATT junction on the radiator support or horn relay, correct?
The Dark RED is your sub.

Now run a wire from the starter wire/S terminal (purple) to starter and pigtail off another wire and run it to the trunk mounted solenoid terminal.
Not clear on this part John.

Vega$69
Feb 6th, 13, 12:19 PM
Small RED going over the wheelwell is the main power to the BATT junction on the radiator support or horn relay, correct?
The Dark RED is your sub. YES


Not clear on this part John.

Originally you purple (switch) wire went to the S terminal on the starter. You could simply reroute it to the solenoid then from the solenoid to the starter.

This would require 2 wires to the trunk.

The LS starter has a single wire weather proof plug for the S wire. See pictures above.

I T'ed into this wire and ran one wire to the solenoid. Now hit the key and the S term on the starter and the solenoid get 12V at the same time.

On a NON LS starter you can put a jumper from the bat term on the starter to the S term. and run a single wire to the solenoid. Now when you hit the key the solenoid gets 12v closes the switch and the S term on the starter gets 12V via the larger positive cable hooked to the starter

HwyStarJoe
Feb 6th, 13, 03:38 PM
Got it!
Thanks John

67Rally
Feb 7th, 13, 07:02 PM
I think I got it too. So the only difference between the LS setup and the SBC setup is that rather than running a purple from the ignition to the solenoid, and large red to the starter and jumpering the S terminal on the starter, you are now running the purple to T into the weather pack wire that connects to the S terminal of the starter, and the other half of the purple T runs to the remote solenoid with the rest of the remote solenoid wiring staying the same?

Does this diagram look correct? (sorry to hijack Joe)

http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee208/modi_photos/TrunkBatterywiringdiagram_zps07149841.png

Vega$69
Feb 7th, 13, 07:55 PM
I think I got it too. So the only difference between the LS setup and the SBC setup is that rather than running a purple from the ignition to the solenoid, and large red to the starter and jumpering the S terminal on the starter, you are now running the purple to T into the weather pack wire that connects to the S terminal of the starter, and the other half of the purple T runs to the remote solenoid with the rest of the remote solenoid wiring staying the same?

Does this diagram look correct? (sorry to hijack Joe)

http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee208/modi_photos/TrunkBatterywiringdiagram_zps07149841.png

Nice diagram.

Yes that's the way I did mine

It was suggested I run the purple to the rear mount solenoid and then use a relay for 12V back to the starter due to the long wire run.

I did it this way so I only run one wire the length of the car and no need for the relay. ie my S wire to the starter is the same length as a standard installation.

Now you can do away with all of this if you don't mind the large + cable to the starter be hot all the time. Lol

HwyStarJoe
Feb 8th, 13, 05:15 AM
There's hijacking, and then there's helping.
We're here to help each other! Diagrams always help.
:beers:

davidpozzi
Feb 20th, 13, 11:29 PM
I've used the later Ford solenoid that mounts flat against the fender of any 80's Ford. It's easier to get at. I just run the start wire from IGN switch to the solenoid at the rear, and jumper from the battery cable to SOL connector, same as a Small Block installation. No problems. I added a small 16 ga fused hot wire from Battery to the radio to keep the memory saved and clock working. The ALT wire can be disabled with a 50 amp toggle switch in the trunk as an anti-theft device and for safety if you have doubts about your harness shorting out. It also reduces battery drain.
If you use this diagram on a factory ECM, you will lose any learned tune data when you cut off the switch. On those cars it would be better to keep the ECM connected. I used a 10 ga alternator charge wire which has worked fine, but an 8 ga would be better from what Ive read.

HwyStarJoe
Feb 21st, 13, 05:06 AM
Very good Dave. Thanks for the tips!

HwyStarJoe
Mar 30th, 13, 11:44 AM
The remote solenoid kit I bought has a little note hidden in the box that states: "Do not use this solenoid on PCM\ECM controlled vehicles. It does not come with suppression diodes."

Ummm... am I supposed to look for a remote starter solenoid that DOES use suppression diodes?
If I can make this one work by adding a diode somewhere, I will. But how would it be added to the circuit? Which direction, and what specs for the diode would I need?
I have a suppression diode on my fan relay, but I don't know if the same spec diode would work on a circuit like this, and which poles it would go to\from.
Ideas? Is it even a concern? I don't want to destroy a $400 computer with a $250 re-flash on it.

I found this on solenoid suppression, but it doesn't tell me which two posts to install the diode on: http://www.suregripcontrols.com/install_suppress.htm
Between BATT + and frame ground?

Found it!
http://classicbroncos.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=157077&d=1264437140

I "fixed the glitch".... see http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=215575&page=9

onovakind67
Mar 31st, 13, 06:43 AM
For about $13 you can buy a Ford relay with the suppression diode built in.

http://shopper.cnet.com/engine/victory-lap-f492-starter/4414-19238_9-820016714.html

HwyStarJoe
Mar 31st, 13, 06:58 AM
Yeah... I know that NOW! :)
For $1 I did it the 'backyard mechanic' way.

HwyStarJoe
Apr 14th, 13, 07:23 AM
Yes that's the way I did mine.
I did it this way so I only run one wire the length of the car and no need for the relay. ie my S wire to the starter is the same length as a standard installation.


Sanity check please... only want to do this one time while I've got everything apart.

I've got the solenoid partially wired, with the remainder of the needed circuits pulled. Just need to terminate them at the solenoid.

Here's a list of the wires I pulled up front...see if I have this correct:

- S terminal on solenoid to S terminal on starter.
Since it ties in with the original IGN purple wire at the LS starter, I'm just going to cut the terminal off the existing purple wire, connect the new S wire coming from the solenoid to it and crimp a new connector on the end, essentially making a T ( a V?) from the starter to the solenoid and to the original feed.

- Main battery cable from I terminal side of solenoid to BATT on starter. Large lug, NOT the I terminal.

- Battery cable from opposite side of solenoid (S terminal side) to the battery.

- Alternator wire from BATT hot side of solenoid to the alternator.

- I also have another 10Ga hot running up front from a circuit breaker panel in the trunk, going to the Aux. fuse panel on the firewall.
Since I have a battery with both top posts and side terminals, I don't need a separate Hot terminal block in the trunk. I can use the second set of battery posts for that.

My question in all this... what happens at the single power junction block on the radiator support that the battery used to power? Do I have to drag ANOTHER 10Ga wire up front to this spot to power the car?

Pic of the battery cable and the other 4 wires at the firewall
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v59/HwyStar/HwyStar%20build/P1010365.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/HwyStar/media/HwyStar%20build/P1010365.jpg.html)

Everett#2390
Apr 14th, 13, 05:39 PM
Why not just run a single battery cable from remote solenoid to starter solenoid large post then a copper jumper or 10GA jumper from the starter solenoid post to the solenoid S terminal?
I ask because when remote solenoid is energized by OE purple wire, current goes to starter solenoid to engage pinion and starter solenoid then connects current to starter motor, as OE design.

If done as above, then move alt output to opposite terminal of remote solenoid.
Yes, you will have run a power supply wire to the horn relay buss bar, battery junction block, or solder splice across the firewall to the power wire from the hr buss bar.

DOUG G
Apr 15th, 13, 03:44 AM
Why not just run a single battery cable from remote solenoid to starter solenoid large post then a copper jumper or 10GA jumper from the starter solenoid post to the solenoid S terminal?
I ask because when remote solenoid is energized by OE purple wire, current goes to starter solenoid to engage pinion and starter solenoid then connects current to starter motor, as OE design.

If done as above, then move alt output to opposite terminal of remote solenoid.
Yes, you will have run a power supply wire to the horn relay buss bar, battery junction block, or solder splice across the firewall to the power wire from the hr buss bar.
I used a copper strip about 1/2-5/8" wide at the starter for the jumper and purple wire to noid...no need to run to starter.

HwyStarJoe
Apr 15th, 13, 05:10 AM
I was under the impression that the starter on an LS cannot be jumpered because of the way they're wired.
Unless I'm misunderstanding something.
See Post #30...
http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=215559&page=2

...
Yes, you will have run a power supply wire to the horn relay buss bar, battery junction block, or solder splice across the firewall to the power wire from the hr buss bar.

The way I see it, I need to have a 10Ga coming straight from the battery + to the junction up front to power the car. Bypassing the solenoid. The way it's wired now, the BATT cable is disabled after starting the car. Is it feasible to power the junction block straight from the 10Ga that is now run to the alternator from the solenoid? That wire is always hot.

yellow69RS
Apr 15th, 13, 08:30 AM
Other than the weatherpack plug I see no reason you can't jumper the LS starter. It looks like it works the same on the inside as the old school solenoid.

The two Diagrams that Highway Star Joe has posted should be removed IMHO as they don't make effective use of the solenoid. The main reason to use the solenoid is so the Main battery cable to the starter is NOT hot all the time.

Jeff

HwyStarJoe
Apr 15th, 13, 09:23 AM
You mean back in Post #31?
I removed them.

Everett#2390
Apr 15th, 13, 09:31 AM
Is it feasible to power the junction block straight from the 10Ga that is now run to the alternator from the solenoid? Yes, you can.

HwyStarJoe
Apr 15th, 13, 09:57 AM
BINGO.... we have a winner!
Now I can tie up the loose ends in the trunk and forget climbing in there anymore! WOOHOO!
Thanks Everett

Bringing the eng\trans to the house tonight...

BobKovacs
Apr 15th, 13, 10:46 AM
Bringing the eng\trans to the house tonight...

So I take it you found your chainsaw???? :D

HwyStarJoe
Apr 15th, 13, 10:52 AM
Oh yeah.... ;)
Gotta do some pallet surgery, and then load it up.

DOUG G
Apr 15th, 13, 02:18 PM
Joe...mine is and working fine.

HwyStarJoe
Apr 15th, 13, 04:06 PM
Your's is what Doug? Wired like that?

DOUG G
Apr 15th, 13, 04:12 PM
Your's is what Doug? Wired like that?
Purple wire to the 'niod in the trunk and the copper flatbar jumper at the starter.

Vega$69
Apr 15th, 13, 05:03 PM
Purple wire to the 'niod in the trunk and the copper flatbar jumper at the starter.

Ok This is the LS Starter. Purple goes to the weatherpack below the 2 large studs. So how did you do the flatbar jumper?


http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m158/Johnthaxton/th_LSStarterLS_zps041dd220.jpg (http://s103.photobucket.com/user/Johnthaxton/media/LSStarterLS_zps041dd220.jpg.html)

DOUG G
Apr 15th, 13, 05:41 PM
Ok This is the LS Starter. Purple goes to the weatherpack below the 2 large studs. So how did you do the flatbar jumper?


http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m158/Johnthaxton/th_LSStarterLS_zps041dd220.jpg (http://s103.photobucket.com/user/Johnthaxton/media/LSStarterLS_zps041dd220.jpg.html)

Mine has 3 posts .... jumper goes to the top small post and the larger post on the left.

http://d3d71ba2asa5oz.cloudfront.net/13000024/images/sdr0070b.jpg

Vega$69
Apr 15th, 13, 05:50 PM
Mine has 3 posts .... jumper goes to the top small post and the larger post on the left.


Yep that works on an aftermarket starter.

On the OEM you can run a jumper from the BAT on the starter spliced into the purple wire that goes in the weatherpack

There was some talk of "run on" this way but when you release the key you kill the 12V to the BAT and the purple and or jumper so it's just not gonna happen.

btw Nice Starter

DOUG G
Apr 15th, 13, 06:29 PM
btw Nice Starter
Just a starter I found with the posts I have....not my starter :(
I got a "reman" or "aftermarket" starter from Summit....have the box somewhere, forget Mfg. name :o

HwyStarJoe
Apr 15th, 13, 07:45 PM
Well, seeing as I have the engine already wired, and the starter\alternator\etc. are all plugged in already, I'm just connecting the S post on the solenoid to that circuit at the weatherpack somewhere convenient.
Thanks guys...

Now that the weather is finally somewhat approaching spring-like temps, things will move a lot quicker. I brought the engine\trans home tonight and started getting them ready to test-fit.

yellow69RS
Apr 15th, 13, 08:57 PM
I would plug the weatherpack in then loop it to the top stud on the starter.

Jeff