According to my book, a 69 pace car with a 350/300hp engine and automatic transmission should have Quadrajet carb #7029202. My car has #7042202. Can anyone identify this carb? Just wondering if my book might not have all numbers listed and if this is the correct carb.

[ 05-06-2004, 12:44 PM: Message edited by: Indy Z11 ]

Colvin 1970-1975 book shows this number to be 1972 code, 350ci 175 hp and Vette 200 hp. You should have 7029202 for auto, 7029203 for manual

This really stinks. Well, at least my block, heads, manifold, exhaust manifolds, alternator, and distributor have correct numbers. I need to rebuild the carb. Does anyone know if there is much difference between the carbs like bigger jets in the 7029202 or something? Will a rebuild kit for a 7029202 work in a 7042202? Should I even attemp it?

Nice car! you can rebuild the carb and it will work fine, my jets are #69 and secondary rods are #DR, but anything close will work until you can tune it. Or you can buy a refurbished numbers and date coded carb thru Hemmings or someplace. Do you have the Protecto Plate? it will say R for Rochester Quadrajet or C for Carter built Quadrajet. Both are the same except Carter says Carter on it.

Unfortunately I don't have the Protect-o-plate. Here is some data I found on decoding a Q-jet carb. Thought this might help someone in the future who does a search on this subject. Underneath the 7042202 number on my carb, there is M1 and DJ. I assume DJ is the customer code? What does this mean? No 4 digit date code. What does M1 mean?

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Example: #70 2 8 2 1 9 DG 1938

70 - Prefix code. "70" will appear on all late '60's Rochester Carburetors. All Rochester Carburetors built from 70 - 75 should have a "70" prefix but could be missing on some carburetors. In '76 the prefix changed to "170".

2 - Decade produced.
2 - 1960's
3 - 1060's with A.I.R.
4 - 1970-1975
5 - 1976-1979
8 - 1980's

8 - Year produced. 8=1968

2 - Model
0 - Monojet (1 bbl) Federal standards
1 - Two jet (2 bbl) Federal standards
2 - Quadrajet (4 bbl) Federal standards
3 - Monojet (1 bbl) California standards
4 - Two jet (2 bbl) California standards
5 - Quadrajet (4 bbl) California standards

1 - Division. 0, 1, and 2 all indicate Chevrolet.

9 - Transmission
Even numbers - Automatic Transmission
Odd numbers - Manual Transmission

DG - Customer code.

1938 - Date Code. The actual day and year the carburetor was manufactured. First three digits indicate the exact day of the year. Last digit reflects the year of production. Ex: 1938 = 193rd day of production in 1968 (depends on decade).

Send the carb to these guys.....they do great work for a fair price.

Believe me..I had a quadrajet I didn't know what to do with....these guys saved the day for me...

graemlins/thumbsup.gif

C.R.Carbs (http://customrebuiltcarbs.com/)

CRC is local to me and I have been to phil's shop. Very impressive and professional! graemlins/thumbsup.gif

They had a date coded 7029203 carb for my SS in stock. It was pricey, but correct. Running fine.

http://www.fototime.com/CDBFA2046658CFE/standard.jpg

My car was built the 3rd week of April. My engine was built the 8th day of April and the tranny the 11th day of April. Can someone recommend a carb date code range I should look for? I am guessing as close to April 8th as possible but not sure how much leeway I should allow before and after this date.

This probably isn't the correct place to talk about problems but since I have already started this thread might as well continue here. My carb doesn't seem to be holding gas. Everytime I start the car, I have to crank and pump it for a long time until it fires. It's like there's no gas in the carb and I have to wait for the fuel pump to fill the float bowl up. Happens everytime the car sits for a day or more. When I took the carb off and took it apart, there was no gas in it. Float bowl was dry. Any ideas?

I might have a carb for you. I will check after lunch.

My car is about the same build date. The carb you should get will be 7029202 DY and anytime in March date code. The refurbished carbs all have epoxy on the well plugs (bottom of float bowl) that helps stop the leak-down problem.

What kind of epoxy is used on the well plugs? I bet this is what is causing my carb bowl to empty out after sitting more than a day or so. Is there a way to tell if my well plugs are leaking?

"J B Weld" has a good gas proof epoxy. HP books has a book on Rochester rebuilding that shows this process. I did mine, but it will still leak down after sitting a week or two. The rebuild kit is the same kit for just about all quadrajets.
If you can do it, it would be a good time to get a correct date coded unit before they get even more expensive.

Thanks for all the info OAKLYSS. I plan to go ahead and rebuild my non-matching numbers carb to get the car back on the road then try to pick up a matching numbers carb soon. Got my rebuild kit today. Can I just put epoxy over the factory caps without removing them or do I have to drill them out?

What does the DY on your carb stand for? I know it's a customer code but what makes this any different than than DJ, DH, etc?

[ 05-07-2004, 06:49 PM: Message edited by: Indy Z11 ]

Just clean both the primary and secondary Well plugs real good and epoxy right over them. The DY is a customer code that matches box 176 on my chassis sheet so it sould be right for yours too. These carbs were set and jetted for each customer application and engine. Any carb will work for you when you tune it.

Along with epoxy on the well plugs, there is another fix for the internal leak problem. TOMCO INC., the company that makes Tomco carb kits, makes a rubber plug (I think the part # is 405) that fits between the carb base and the carb center body. This plug also comes in their q-jet rebuild kits. Just a little more insurance.

Can the bowl assembly (middle section that has the carb number) of a 7042202 be swapped with one from a 7029202? I found a cheap 7029202 and was wondering if I can interchange the bowls since the air horn and throttle plate on my 7042202 is in much better shape.