Both resistor wire and 2nd 12V wire to + coil at same time? [Archive] - Team Camaro Tech

: Both resistor wire and 2nd 12V wire to + coil at same time?


gordr
Aug 22nd, 13, 03:13 PM
I put a Pertronix distributor in my 396 machine along with a Flame Thrower coil.

I measured voltage with the resistor wire to the + on the coil and it reads 6.8 volts. I'm told that I should run a new full 12 volt wire from a keyed ignition source to the + on the coil.

Looking at the stock wiring setup it has the resistor wire and yellow starter solenoid wire merged into one connector end so I'd like to leave it stock rather than cutting it up.

My question is: can I have both the resistor wire and newer 2nd 12V wire to + coil at same time ? I don't see how it would hurt anything, but please tell me if I'm wrong.

It's easy to hook up a second 12V wire as I can splice it into the Holley carb's electric choke 12V feed which is plugged into the fusebox's "fused" ignition source.

NH69Z28RS
Aug 22nd, 13, 03:38 PM
Yes you can add a second positive supply wire to the coil and leave your original resistor wire in place with no harm.

Keep in mind the coil and ignition module together can draw as much as 7 amps so the wire size does matter that you use to supply the coil and ignition module. Don't use too light of a gauge wire or you could have problems.

PA Camaro Guy
Aug 22nd, 13, 08:28 PM
If your coil doesn't need the extra zing from the starter solenoid, why not just forget it all and run your 12v splice from the choke. Put that stock stuff in the loom and tape it up.

gordr
Aug 22nd, 13, 08:51 PM
If your coil doesn't need the extra zing from the starter solenoid, why not just forget it all and run your 12v splice from the choke. Put that stock stuff in the loom and tape it up.

If I leave out the yellow wire will the solenoid be able to kick over? What's the other second wire on the solenoid for? The small one that is....

Everett#2390
Aug 23rd, 13, 04:39 AM
Since a '67,
Determine if the yellow wire from the solenoid R terminal is needed as follows:
Disconnect the yellow wire at the solenoid R terminal and coil + terminal,
Connect a test light or voltmeter to the resistor wire and turn ign sw to START.
If light is off or voltmeter reads less than battery voltage, then you need the yellow wire connected to solenoid R terminal.
If no power, hook up yellow wire to solenoid - you need it.
If power is present, optional to leave yellow wire connected, or fold back yellow wire and insulate it.

You will need a 12GA wire for new ign power feed.
Get a 1 female-to-2 male spade adapter, usually found in the asst package at local parts store, and pull off choke power lead on IGN spade, install adapter, plug choke power back onto adapter, and make/connect new ign power lead to the other male spade.

If fuse blows, you may have to connect two relays for power of the choke and ign power and use the IGN spade as relay control - on/off.

NH69Z28RS
Aug 23rd, 13, 05:31 AM
X2 on what Everett responded with. Pertronix has a relay kit available but you can make up your own as well. As Everett mentioned, a 12 gauge wire is what you should use to power the ignition, anything less could lead to problems. Make sure whatever it connects to is also 12 gauge or heavier all the way pack to the power source - otherwise you'll have a power/current bottleneck. The power relay eliminates this possibility.

gordr
Aug 23rd, 13, 09:12 PM
Since a '67,
Determine if the yellow wire from the solenoid R terminal is needed as follows:
Disconnect the yellow wire at the solenoid R terminal and coil + terminal,
Connect a test light or voltmeter to the resistor wire and turn ign sw to START.
If light is off or voltmeter reads less than battery voltage, then you need the yellow wire connected to solenoid R terminal.
If no power, hook up yellow wire to solenoid - you need it.
If power is present, optional to leave yellow wire connected, or fold back yellow wire and insulate it.

You will need a 12GA wire for new ign power feed.
Get a 1 female-to-2 male spade adapter, usually found in the asst package at local parts store, and pull off choke power lead on IGN spade, install adapter, plug choke power back onto adapter, and make/connect new ign power lead to the other male spade.

If fuse blows, you may have to connect two relays for power of the choke and ign power and use the IGN spade as relay control - on/off.

Thanks, Everett for the feedback and suggestion. The only thing is with my resistor wire and yellow solenoid wire they both come together as one connector to the + on the coil. Is there any way to test this with the resistor and yellow wires together.

What I did today but haven't driven it yet due to rain, is I installed a 12 gauge wire from the 10 amp fused ignition source to the + on the coil....with the resistor wire and, of course, the yellow solenoid wire that is part of the resistor wire's connector to the + coil.

Having the 12 gauge new wire from the ignition source on top of the resistor wire wouldn't hurt, I imagine...?

Everett#2390
Aug 24th, 13, 06:01 AM
Thanks, Everett for the feedback and suggestion. The only thing is with my resistor wire and yellow solenoid wire they both come together as one connector to the + on the coil. Is there any way to test this with the resistor and yellow wires together. You're welcome. Sentence #2, disconnect the yellow wire at the solenoid and at the coil + terminal. This action isolates the OE ign wire supply wire.
Having the 12 gauge new wire from the ignition source on top of the resistor wire wouldn't hurt, I imagine...?Nope, does not hurt.

PA Camaro Guy
Aug 24th, 13, 09:16 PM
Everett if you're still watching this thread I have a question on your advice. I don't have a 67 so that could be the difference. However, the test you prescribed confuses me. How is the solenoid involved in a "run" condition? Testing the voltage at hand between the resistor wire and the coil alone would be a run condition where the SS is not active? Also, I think that test would conclude less than battery voltage by virtue of it being a resistor wire. It's still possible to run a coil on less.. have done it on my car in an older set up which I think you were helping me to troubleshoot.

Everett#2390
Aug 25th, 13, 07:54 AM
The yellow wire is open ended in the ign run position.
Solenoid energizes pushing the disc against the bolts completing the path for starter motor to work and the R terminal on the solenoid cap.
The yellow wire has power on it is at START position, regardless of year, by design, providing battery power to the ign circuit of an operating temp engine, ie, hot start.
This 'extra' power aids in rapid start, hotter spark, as the resistive wire, in a previously ran engine, is already hot and has reduced voltage input to ign circuit making for a weaker spark.
This is the only purpose of the yellow wire, aid in hot start for a faster start.

Sixty-seven's, I believe, have no IGN voltage from the ign sw in START position, thus the yellow wire is needed.

For all practical purposes for any year, the yellow wire can stay, just a shorter path for START ign power.