I have a chance to purchace a #272 block, steel crank,pistons and matching heads dated mid June 1969, supposedly a 375 HP 396ci. The block is complete as described and the asking price is $1,900.00. (no intake, carb., balancer, etc. Will mostlikely need rebuilt, however, what do you guys think? If it is what it is supposed to be, is it worth the $1900??????? Thanks for all your advice.
Dk

well I was pricing out blocks and heads about 2 years ago and a dated (375 hp)BB for 69 Camaro was going for between 800 and 1,000. The heads were going from any where from 600 to 1200. steel cross drilled crank a good 400, rods 100 to 200, Pistons, if you have to rebuilt you will have to buy a new set. They are around 45 to 50 a piece. So if you have a real documented L-78 and that motor is the correct date and casting for your car, it may be worth it to you. If not, then by the time you buy that engine and rebuild it it would be cheaper to just buy a 454 or 502 ( if you really want a BB)crate motor or find a nice low perf. block and redo that. BBs are very expensive to rebuild. If you really don't need a BB get yourself a nice small block and build yourself a nice 383 and save a grand or so.

Thanks Kurt-that's what I thought. However, I am trying to get my car as close to original as possible. A 325 or 350 Hp 396 would be original. The L-78 just seemed interesting. DK

That L78 would be fun.

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'69 RS SS 396 375hp L78 Convertible, M22, 3.31 posi, deluxe interior, gauges, rosewood wheel, AM-FM, fold down seat, tilt wheel, Torque Thrust Wheels, console mounted 8 track player, chambered exhaust, locking gas cap
COMING SOON Corvette tripower, small body HEI, and maybe "842" aluminum heads

chris396: I saw your reply about being fun and noticed you have a similar setup? Could you give me your thoughts and maybe a brief description of your setup? I like the idea of the L-78 because it is still a 396 and the #'s closely match. I'm just trying to justify the cost versus waiting for another one to come along. DK

If you build a "complete dated engine" the total cost is going to run well over $6000. Start pricing the correct dated parts and they add up quick.
Carb $650
Distributor $375
Alternator $400
waterpump $150
intake manifold $200
exhaust manifolds $250
7 blade dated fan $125
Radiator $250 (not correct) $600 (correct)
Deep Groove Pulleys $150 (repo) $450 (GM)
Then I would figure about $750 for the little things like correct bolts, carb linkage, etc.
The engine machine work will be around $2500
The hardest thing is finding the correct parts. If you found a block and heads that fit you car, I'd buy it because finding them is easy, finding them to fit is hard. LOL

Neal is right on. The little parts can get expensive. My car was already done when I bought it. The little stuff was there. If it were me, and I could afford it, I would rather have an L78 over a 325hp or 350hp 396. Gas mileage is bad though.

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'69 RS SS 396 375hp L78 Convertible, M22, 3.31 posi, deluxe interior, gauges, rosewood wheel, AM-FM, fold down seat, tilt wheel, Torque Thrust Wheels, console mounted 8 track player, chambered exhaust, locking gas cap
COMING SOON Corvette tripower, small body HEI, and maybe "842" aluminum heads

One good thing is it will increase the value of your car. By how much is up to the buyer. I'm guessing a correct dated car is somewhere around 8 grand. One other thing to think about is the trans and rearend. Buyers look at everything.

Thanks for the replies everyone. The original engine for my car would be a 325 or 350hp, based upon the return line present. The L-78 just seemed like a good option. I have looked at several potential engines and the seller seems to always say that "who cares what the numbers are, as long as it is a 396. If you are going to spend the money to rebuild, just have it re-stamped"?????? I don't like the way that sounds. To me that means that there are a lot of restamped "original" engines out there. If that is the norm, then I am going to stop hunting for that correctly dated, etc. block and pic up the first decent 396 I can find. Any thoughts? Thanks, DK

DK, I don't think it's the norm to restamp blocks. Keep looking! I found a correct dated and stamped block for my 69 SS (350 though) at a swap meet. It was tagged as a 68. But, I felt I had to look. Got out the wire brush and cleaned off the surfaces and sure enough, perfect! They turn up in the strangest places.

Kevin

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69' SS-350 Convert, M20, 3.55 posi. Totally Disassembled & in boxes (I'm working on it!) (http://www.fototime.com/0A0DC8E11C07E95/standard.jpg)
69'(Hugger Orange -originally, Burgundy now) Z-21 Convert 327/PG, 3.55 posi too! Driver (http://www.fototime.com/BD198A2E7BF669A/standard.jpg)

L-78/LS-6 smog set up or parts wanted for my 1970 L-78 Camaro......and 1969 Camaro L-78 CAR wanted.......Chuck Sharin/Seattle

You have to look at the casting dates on the block and heads. You cannot change those with a re-stamp. That's what most people look at when they look at a date correct engine.

DK. I just got my L-78 back to being correct with the right pullys,"4346carb" 163 intake,and all that goes with it. I then put a set of aluminum heads on it to make it an
L-89 (GM heads). I put well over 2 grand in it and never touched the bottom end. Good Luck.
Denny

I'd say you did great to buy an alum intake,r 4346 carb, andGM alum heads for under 2 grand.

Notice much of a difference with those heads?

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'69 RS SS 396 375hp L78 Convertible, M22, 3.31 posi, deluxe interior, gauges, rosewood wheel, AM-FM, fold down seat, tilt wheel, Torque Thrust Wheels, console mounted 8 track player, chambered exhaust, locking gas cap
COMING SOON Corvette tripower, small body HEI, and maybe "842" aluminum heads

Chris, I din't get the car running since the heads were put on.I'm doing a complete on the car. Right now it's getting painted(72-72) & should have it back in a week.The heads are "Winters" but are late model D port. They are open chamber, were the old ones were closed chamber. I'm going to lose a full point on compression but I'm not after speed.
Denny

Thanks NealM and everyone else for the replies. I will continue the search for the Holy Grail. DK

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Denny B:
Chris, I din't get the car running since the heads were put on.I'm doing a complete on the car. Right now it's getting painted(72-72) & should have it back in a week.The heads are "Winters" but are late model D port. They are open chamber, were the old ones were closed chamber. I'm going to lose a full point on compression but I'm not after speed.
Denny<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

How are you putting open chamber heads on a closed chamber piston? I think the pistons will still hit on the edge unless you are using real small domes.

ShelbyDog If close to original is what you want I would continue looking for a 325/350hp engine as parts are more plentifull, easier to find and much lower cost. Sticking an L78 in an 325/350 horse car isn't going to add enough value to recover the money you will lay out for these parts. There is also a whole lot more you will have to deal with ie: correct red line on your tach, correct deep groove pulleys etc. etc. This of course is only my opinion. Good luck

Neil, I put clay on the pistons @ turned it over by hand several times. They did not hit,infact I had 1/16 to an 1/8 of room left.I put the heads on without a gasket to make sure it din't hit.The domes are small. I'd say they were only 10.25, maybe 10.50 at the most. The heads were even decked before I got them.
Denny

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Denny B:
Neil, I put clay on the pistons @ turned it over by hand several times. They did not hit,infact I had 1/16 to an 1/8 of room left.I put the heads on without a gasket to make sure it din't hit.The domes are small. I'd say they were only 10.25, maybe 10.50 at the most. The heads were even decked before I got them.
Denny

<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

The reason I asked is one time I did the same but I had 11:1 pistons and I had to shave the corner off the piston domes. The engine was a 427 with round port heads and it ran really strong on pump gas.