I AM LOOKING TO BUY A 396/375 L 89 CAMARO WHERE DO I LOOK TO VERIFY THE HEADS ARE ORIGINAL TO THIS CAR THANKS

Without factory paperwork, I'm only aware of 2 things you can do. First the engine code stamped on the block pad below the alternator will be coded to the L-89 engine option and the block has this car's VIN stamped in it, secondly check the head casting numbers AND casting dates. If the casting, dates and codes match along w/the VIN your risk would be it's a potential restamp which you'll never know w/out factory paperwork.

[This message has been edited by 70 RS/Z-28 (edited 02-01-2000).]

where are the head casting # located thanks

All the info is under the valve covers. I don't know what the proper casting number is for the L89 heads but you can at least check the dates. Should look something like A 12 9 Deciphers as January 12th, 1969. Compare that to the date on the cowl tag on the firewall. The cowl tag date looks like 02A. Deciphers as (02) February (A) first week in the month. Date on heads should be around a couple weeks in advance of the car. Strange things have happened and this doesn't always appear true but its a starting point. If the dates match you still have to prove that the car is a original L89 car and not just the standard Big Block that someone added aluminum heads to, if thats what your after. To find that out you need to give the numbers off the engine pad underneath the alternator. While your under the hood check the casting date of the motor also. I believe its on the rear flange close to where the bellhousing bolts to the block. Any chance of posting the VIN and cowl tag also? Good luck!

I just finished trying to make a deal with the guy who was selling the fathom green 1969 L-89 on e-bay two weeks ago. In the process, I talked to A LOT of people and learned a lot of info.

First, unless the owner lets you take the intake manifold off, you can't verify the casting dates: they are cast onto the bottom of the head on one of the intake ports. Second, the aluminum heads were available at the dealership parts counter, so its easy to fake one of these cars.

Note: all factory aluminum intakes have the casting date cast on the bottom too, so the casting date can't be confirmed without removal.

With regard to the VIN stamping on the block, it depends on the model year. Prior to about mid-Dec 68, Norwood stamped the VIN on the alternator pad. After that, it was stamped on the rear flange down by the oil filter. This is good because the VIN is stamped onto rough cast iron, not a machined surface. Your chances of catching a restamped VIN are much better, since they would have to grind the old one off. I didn't research Van Nuys since the car I was looking at was a Norwood car.

This was where I had a problem with the car. It was a FEB 69 Norwood car and it had the VIN stamping on the alternator pad. The guy had no documentation and we couldn't agree on how to pay for having the car appraised, so I passed.

The car had the X-66 code so I knew it was a big block. There is a HUGE price differential between a 396/325 and an L-89. One person I talked to believed an undocumented L-89 was only worth the extra cost of the aluminum heads over a base big block car. In other words, about $10-15,000, depending on condition and options.
Don't pay the premium without the documentation or having someone authenticate the car. This guy wanted $26K for an undocumented and unverified car.

I called Jerry MacNiesh. He has written multiple books on first generation Camaros and has a Camaro consulting business (some guys have all the luck). He can authenticate a car by looking at all of the parts and casting #s and dates as well as the engine code and VIN stamping. He said that restamps were very difficult and that he could see a restamp a mile away. His address is z28camaro.com

Last thing: make sure you get a COMPLETE CAR. Parts for L-78/L-89 engines are VERY expensive: smog pump set-up is $1,000, correct distributor is $500, correct carb is $750, correct alternator is $500, deep groove pulleys another $3-500, and so on.
The car I was looking at wasn't even complete.

Good luck in your search.

[This message has been edited by gheatly (edited 02-01-2000).]

The block casting number located at the top rear of the block should be 3955272. The block casting date can be on either the lower right side of the block or the top rear near the distributer as it was switched mid-year in '69. The casting number for the heads should be 3919842. Pull both valve covers to check both heads. The engine code from the front pad below the alternator should end in JJ, JM, or KE.

If you are serious about this car I would STRONGLY suggest you hire someone to act as a consultant. It appears you're fairly new to the "numbers" stuff. I would imagine this car is $20K+ so the small amount for a consultant could save you from making a major financial blunder.

Good luck!