http://www.camaros.net/forum/confused.gif what steps should I take when I put my baby down for the winter? I have a garage(not heated)to put it in and a car cover to go over it, and was going to take the battery out...but have heard all kinds of things to do, take out plugs, put teaspoon of motor oil down each hole, roll windows down a crack, keep windows rolled up..put sta-bil in the tank, and what about mice control?? Any suggestions???
Thanks,

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http://www.geocities.com/d_depaolo/

I start mine up and run it for a while a couple times a month. Stinks up the garage a bit, but it airs out. (the carbonmonoxide helps to euthanize the mice) This may not be the best way, but it seems to keep the seals lubed and everything in working order. Not to mention it's fun to listen to... Just my personal take on the subject. As for the mice... a box of Decon in the front seat seems to work well. They love it! http://www.camaros.net/forum/wink.gif

Move to California. You can drive your car all year long.

Seriously, Just start it twice a month.

Scott.

Your best bet is to park it and leave it sit until you're ready to take it out. Everytime you start it up and let it warm up a little, you are creating condensation, and that means rust!!! The Sta-bil in the tank is a good idea, as well as leaving a window, just cracked a little. Also it's a good idea to remove the battery. Be sure to fill the gastank up before you park it. When you go to get it out in the spring, bring an airtank along in case any tires went flat. Under no circumstances is it a good idea to put it on blocks, or jackstands.

The important thing is to leave it alone until spring, no matter how tempted you are to start it up!!



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70 & 1/2 RS
SB406 & M20 4spd
9" rear

70 Malibu 350/TH400

Gold member #103
Driveline Technician

http://www.geocities.com/carguy63/

I put this together some time ago, but a lot of it still makes sense... to me.
http://camaros.net/shop/winterize.html

MLM* http://www.camaros.net/forum/smile.gif

* you have to read it to know what MLM means

Hey Scooter. I used to work in a driveline shop. Made quite a few drive shafts for the local racecars. We had all the BeeLine equipment. I kinda miss it now, to say the least...

Hey Al, in Missouri it seems to be MLAC (air cleaners) Hehehe. http://www.camaros.net/forum/biggrin.gif

Thanks Al, that is some great advice...

If you are parking the car on a concrete surface place something under it to absorb or block moisture such as sheet plastic or plywood. Do not set the parking brake. Cover the car with something that will not trap moisture. Take the battery out and place it on a intermittent charger. Todays batteries are usually toast after one deep cycle so do not allow it to go dead.

Why leave a window cracked?

I agree with Scooter. I've stored plenty of cars and never run them. If it is very cold you will never get the oil up to temp or burn off the moisture in the exhaust. I've seen cars in storage for 3-4 years put back on the road with no problems.

i have stored about 10,000 boats in my life time and the first thing you do is check the aintifreeze. then you put stabil in the tank. as for the mothballs i would put them under it not in they smell for awhile. for the engine go buy some storage fogging oil in a spray it into the carb(alot) crank it over untill it tryes to start and then unhook the battery and youre done till next spring. then you charge the battery and start.if you have point's you might want to change them in the spring,

[This message has been edited by DEVIL'S LAKE (edited 09-15-2000).]

I am curious as to why one would not want to store thier car for long periods of time on Blocks or Jackstands. I have always heard the opposite. Am I missing something here? Tell me the pro's and con's please.

Bob R

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1973 Z28 Original owner

[This message has been edited by Bob R (edited 09-15-2000).]

One suggestion I can give is the use of a desicant. It rains a lot here is Wash. Like you did not know?? Purchase a DRI-Z-AIR container and bags of crystals> about 10$. Follow the MFR instructions and place one in the trunk and one in the interior. I use an old cookie sheet or some other secondary contianment to make sure I do not get any spills or drips. This will draw out any moisture from the air in the interior. Check it often if garage is open to outside, about once a month. You will be amazed how much moisture these things will pull out of thin air. Rule #1 don't spill the fluid,dispose properly the juice never dries. As far as DECON never use it in a car. Mice love to feast on it then get sick and SH%! everywhere as they crawl somewhere and DIE. Not a pretty sring time find. GOOD LUCK

I used oil to fog my engine as suggested on the winterize link. That was 10 years ago, and this year I finally started it up - it ran great (considering how long its been). New plugs made it run 10 times better, and I think a carb rebuild is in order. I think fogging is a good idea for long term storage - I doubt you could harm anything...

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Matt
http://camarotech1.com
Camaro Tech 1st Generation

I've been garage-storing cars for the winter in Michigan for 40 years, and have never done anything other than fill the gas tank, change oil and filter, roll up the windows, put a dust cover on, and either pull the battery or put a "Battery Tender" on each of them for one day each month. Come spring, fire it up, check tire pressure, and drive it - cars are nowhwere near as fragile as some folks think. If you get "flat spots", they disappear after about two miles of driving. DO NOT put the car up on blocks or jackstands - this leaves the suspension at full rebound, which stresses hell out of the control arm bushings, and don't "start it up once a month" unless you take it out and drive it 10 miles or more - otherwise it won't get up to temperature, which is necessary to drive the moisture out of the oil. Story is different if you're storing for a year or more - then it pays to fog the cylinders with oil and use Sta-Bil in the fuel.

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JohnZ
'69 Z28 Fathom Green