Currently working on disc conversion on my 68 with drums, I have the spindles off a nova, ordered new vented rotors(good or bad choice?), and powerbooster and mastercylinder, I'm wondering what can I get a proportioning valve off of, new ones in the resto mags are over $150.00. Also what new lines do I need can I use some of what I have or do I need to replace every line and hose?

I think vented rotors (you mean cross drilled?) are a bit of overkill. I have read in another post on this board they can crack and lead to trouble. (I believe it was a question about Baer brakes). I'm doing my change over this weekend with the valve and 4-piston calipers. I'll let you know how it goes.Dan in WV

Inline Tube has a great kit for converting over to disc/drum setups. They even offer the combo valve, around $45.00
www.inlinetube.com (http://www.inlinetube.com)



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67 Camaro LS6 454/TH400/12bolt 3.73

I read that post about the cross drilled or what ever there called, this company called there rotors vented, they should be here any day, I may have to send them back. Still wondering what lines I need, or can keep. Hope your conversions go well, and thanks for the help. Still need to know what to get the proportioning valve off of. Thanks

The kit offered by inline tube has all the prebent brake line tubes you'll need to convert this over. They also sell the combo proportional valve. They have a quality setup.

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67 Camaro LS6 454/TH400/12bolt 3.73

The combination valve from almost any 70's Camaro or Firebird should work.
You may have to adapt the rear brake line to a smaller size to fit the comb valve. Most comb valves have two outlets for the front brakes, and one rear outlet.
The master cyl flare nut sizes may be different, I'm not shure. If you buy lines from someone like Classic Tube make shure they know exactly what parts you are using.

All the lines need to be double flared or they may crack. Double flaring can be difficult and frustrating to do. You have to get the end of the tube cut straight and well chamfered, both inside and out.

If you try and flare tubing in an area that has been crushed by having the flaring tool clamped around it, it is really tough.

I totally agree with david, double flares are very difficult to get right, especially on some of the smaller tubes used in brake systems. I'm finally just going to use stainless tubing which only require single flares. Be sure to use 45 deg. SAE tooling for the master cylinder and combo valves and not the 37 deg. AN style. Mixing and matching these is a no-no.

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To see a picture of my car http://www.geocities.com/casanoc

So I take it that the new lines I buy wont be double flared, this is a job I have no clue on what I am doing. I plan on buying new lines maybe stainless, at the same time purchasing back lines and cables, I think the car needs them.

David Pozzi,

Are you saying that I could replace my stock distribution block and rear "proportioning" valve on my 69 with a 70 and later combination valve?

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Hugger Orange & white 69 Camaro with supercharged 350, Tremec TKO, and 3.73 12-bolt

See my new and improved website at:

www.geocities.com/gheatly (http://www.geocities.com/gheatly)

If you use steel or aluminum they must be double flared. Aluminum can be single flared when larger than 3/8". Stainless tubing only requires a single flare. The strength and hardness of stainless make it very difficult, if not impossible, to make a double flare. Single flares are easy to spot. Look at the end of the flare. If the end is the same thickness as the tube, it's a single. If the end is thick and looks like it has been folded over on it's I.D., then it's a double.

The importance of brake safety cannot be understated. If you do not feel comfortable dealing with the tubing then discuss your situation with your tubing suppier. They can likely supply everything you need. For more information on high-performance plumbing try Carroll Smith's Nuts, Bolts, Fasteners, and Plumbing Handbook.

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To see a picture of my car http://www.geocities.com/casanoc

Charles, the kit that I bought from inline tube has all the hard brake lines that you will require to convert this over. They are all pre-bent, pre-flared & ready to install. They will ask you a few questions about your setup to make sure there isn't any mistakes. They also have the new combo prop valve if you so desire, or you can do like David suggests and find a 70's camaro/firebird.
Inline tube also sells the e-brake cables and the rubber brake hoses, but the rubber hoses from a 69 will work find and these can be bought from any auto parts store.

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67 Camaro LS6 454/TH400/12bolt 3.73

Thanks cardude, and everyone else, I think my best bet is to buy the ones ready to install, I've helped a friend flare the end of a tranny line if I remember right, not my area of expertice. Is the proportioning valve all I need? Does the proportioning valve that I would buy from in line tubes mount in the factory location on the frame, or up somewhere else. I hear there can be header clearance problems from another company that sells on that mounts elsewhere.

[This message has been edited by charlesc (edited 03-31-2000).]

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by gheatly:
David Pozzi,

Are you saying that I could replace my stock distribution block and rear "proportioning" valve on my 69 with a 70 and later combination valve?
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Yes, you can replace the whole works with the combination valve. You would have to remove your proportioning valve, brake light switch, and metering-or holdback valve.