Ok... I want to lower my 68...but I need to do it cheaply. (new baby due today will be limiting funds for a while) I am running 235-60-15's in the front(soon to be 205's or 195's) 275-60-15's in the rear with SSM frame ties and lift bars. My question is about the safety of the coil spring compressors.... I like the idea of reversing this if it doesn't work out. Or would I be better off just cutting the coils. (need 2-3 inches of drop.) As for the back, I was thinking about the lowering blocks... will they work with my setup? Where do the sell them? Also... has anyone had problems with tire rub with tires this large after lowering? (no problems now)...any feedback would be appreciated, especially from someone who has actually used these methods. Thanks.

I lowered my '69 2" by cutting one full coil off the front and putting 2" lowering blocks in the rear. The blocks are available as a kit with new longer u bolts from Pep Boys or J.C. Whitney for about $30. This is a reasonable way to lower your car and it works just fine. Note that you will be increasing your spring rate by cutting the coils so the car will ride stiffer and you will have less suspension travel before bottoming out. Not a big deal really but something you should know and think about before you take the first cut.

I'm running 245/45/17 front and 255/45/17 rear tires with no problems. I'm not sure about the 275s - I know they wouldn't easily fit my car with the available rim width and backspacing on American Torque Thrust IIs. I didn't want to deal with any tire rub so I stuck with the smaller sizes.

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Scott
'69 400SB, Richmond 5-speed
'99 HD Road King Classic

I don't currently have u-bolts on my rear axle setup.... 10 bolt stock with auburn pro series carrier and 4.11. Richmonds... It is more of a plate on the axle that bolts to the spring base... is this setup wrong... can I use the u bolts instead????? Still curious about the compressors also.

Stay away from the compressors, if they let go, they can be like a bullet. Best to find pictures or actually look at someone that has modified theirs and cut the coils. Remember also, do not use a torch to cut coils as this will damage the spring temper.
The plates on your rear springs sound like stock. It should have t-bolts that hold the plate to the perch. U-bolts are fine. Just make sure that you don't clamp over any brake lines.

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67 Camaro LS6 454/TH400/12bolt 3.73

Sorry - I'm on drugs for the flu....I wasn't paying attention to the question - I was thinking you were referring to the spring compressor to remove/install the springs. Forget compressors to lower the car - those are a bad idea. Springs are not that expensive and you can take a 1/4 or 1/2 coil off at a time if you want to be cautious.

I converted my rear to a 9" several years back and didn't think about the bolts. I think you might have to convert to u bolts to use lowering blocks. I still use the stock lower plates on mine - I had Chrysler spring perches welded on the 9" and use big u bolts to hold it all together. Just slip them under the brakes lines first as noted above.

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Scott
'69 400SB, Richmond 5-speed
'99 HD Road King Classic