View Full Version : Frame shop says I need a new subframe


Zach Vonler
Oct 22nd, 01, 09:52 PM
I got my 68 towed to the frame shop last week and they have declared that it needs a new subframe. The guy said that the one on it could possibly be fixed, but that would require removing it from the car, and most of the cost is the labor in removing/reinstalling so I might as well put a never-bent one on when doing it.

Does anyone have a subframe for sale or know one around? The guy at the shop said the only one he was able to locate is 100mi away and going for $550. I thought that sounded like way too much (should be more like $250 right?) so I told him I'd find one myself. Love to find one sandblasted and POR-15'ed already of course http://www.camaros.net/forum/smile.gif Should I consider an aftermarket subframe? I'm already going to do the Guldstrand mod (had done it to the one on the car, now I'll get a welder to do it the pretty way). Are there any other benefits to be had from an aftermarket one unless I change the arms and everything?

Someone mentioned the Dec issue of Chevy Rumbler having an article on replacing the subframe without removing the engine. Is that issue still on the stands?

RickD
Oct 23rd, 01, 03:44 AM
I don't see how you will remove the sub with the engine in. Perhaps others know.

Why does your sub need to be replaced. If the body mount holes are rusted out, they can be repaired easily and cheaply without removal.

You should be able to find another sub for under $200. Of course, they will need detailing.

------------------
Rick Dorion
69 RS Conv,355,M20,4.10's and I don't worry about stone chips.

CamaroNOTcamero
Oct 23rd, 01, 11:07 AM
take this as an oppurtunity to buy a cool subframe if you can afford it, and have them install that.

Zach Vonler
Oct 23rd, 01, 12:46 PM
The reason it has to be replaced is because it is bent. I don't know exactly what or how much, but I do know that I couldn't replace all the subframe bushings when I tried because the holes didn't line up. In addition, the right side middle body mount is twisted quite a bit. The guy at the shop said it could be tweaked back, but since the cost of a new one is so low relative to the work involved, may as well put on a new one.

I looked at the Wayne Due subframe -- no way I'm spending that much, nor am I going to throw away all the money and time I just spent on the front end already. (New shocks, springs, sway bar, brakes, POR-15 on the arms, etc).

pdq67
Oct 23rd, 01, 02:35 PM
To change out the s/f w/ the engine/trans still in the car you have to make an engine cradle that fits at the pan when the engine is up about 3" to 4" from the s/f and then use a floor jack to support the trans. You have to have the car up just enough so that the s/f will "slide out" when loosened and dropped. It's a neat trick w/ the correct stuff ta do it with!!

There are now about 4 to 5 modern aftermarket s/f's for our cars so really do your homework and maybe you can find one that fits your budget. As for me, if I had a welder and a smooth concrete floor shop, I would revamp a second gen's s/f into my car!!! I would put both s/f's side by side and get with it.... pdq67