View Full Version : Power Steering Pump-Rebuild or Replace?


rando
Jun 25th, 04, 05:31 PM
In my efforts to rebuild my front end I was considering the power steering pump as my next item of concern. When I removed the fluid from the steering gear box, I noticed a trace of fine brass or bronze particles in the fluid. The gearbox was rebuilt and nothing was found to be excessively worn. I have been told that the particles more than likely came from the pump. I have looked at the AGR pumps that Summit sells for about $139. I also have quotes to have my original rebuilt for about $65. I am looking for feedback on which way to go. I want to run the filter setup too when I get this rebuild completed. Does anyone have any info on the filter setup (like where to buy it and how much does it cost). I appreciate all feedback and thanks!

davidpozzi
Jun 25th, 04, 07:28 PM
The Summit or other rebuilt pumps come with no reservoir "can", pressure valve, or outlet fitting. You must use the parts from your present pump.

You might as well get yours rebuilt, it's cheaper and will work as well as any.

Here is a great PS filter with magnet to trap iron particles.
Magnefine Inline PS fluid filter:
http://www.magnefine.com/
Available at:
http://www.bulkpart.com/

The only brass in the pump is in the shaft bushing, don't know about the box. You can rebuild the pump yourself but most kits don't have the bushing.
David

JIML82
Jun 26th, 04, 05:26 AM
The pump driveshaft bushing cannot be replaced. It is assembled to the pump and then bored at the factory to a very precision dimension relative to other features inside the pump. If your driveshaft has any side to side movement, the bushing is toast! You need a new pump housing.

I do not believe that you require a power steering fluid filter. Production Saginaw pumps have a round magnet that sits inside the pump, it does an adequate job of gathering the metallic particles and preventing them from being flushed through the system.

The original production magnet number was 5692682. However, I can't find that number at the GMPartsDirect websight. So there must be a later number. I would think that a GM dealer should be able to find a later number. The magnet should be located inside the pump at the following location:

Hold the pump housing (reservoir not installed) looking at it from the rear. Place the discharge fitting hole at 6 o'clock. The magnet should nest and attach itself up against the casting of the pump at about the 4 o'clock position.

rando
Jul 5th, 04, 03:48 AM
I wanted to confirm the info on the bushing NOT being a replaceable item. A friend of mine rebuilt his pump and said a new bushing was included in the kit? He told me it was a matter of pressing out the old and pressing in the new? Thanks for any feedback on this question.

davidpozzi
Jul 5th, 04, 12:11 PM
The kits I purchased did not have the bushing or shaft, but maybe they were not the "full monte" kits. They did have pump vanes, rotor, and seals.

check the instruction sheet for that kit and see if it requires the bushing to be reamed after pressing it in.
David

Jim, I've run across a pump that had a filter held by a spring inside the pump, but my Camaro pump and a couple of others I've taken apart didn't have anything inside, not even a magnet.
David

JIML82
Jul 5th, 04, 12:35 PM
I know that by 1974 all GM pumps had a magnet inside the reservoir. In 1969 they did not have a magnet. Sometime between 69 and 74 they started with the magnets.

I do not remember any filters inside the pump.

The flow control valve has a very fine screen built into the nut that adjusts the pressure relief of the pump. That screen prevents any small chips from lodging under the pressure relief ball that is inside the valve. But it is not a filter.