I'm having trouble bleeding my new brake system...
It now has a power booster and master cylinder and disk brakes. I bench bled the master cylinder, and bled the brakes, but it still goes almost to the floor before it takes up. It stops great, but still goes almost to the floor.
I held the new power booster and the old master cylinder side by side and the rods seemed to be the same length. Does the power booster rod go in the upper hole on the pedal arm like the old manual master cylinder rod, or does it go on the bottom hole? If it does, it looks like it would be in a bind... So:

1. Correct way to bench bleed master cylinder?
2. Which hole on the brake pedal arm?

Thanks,
Trent (Hutch)

It’s been a few years since I changed a car from manual to power, but I seem to recall having to use a different rod into the back of the master cylinder and the other hole in the brake pedal arm.

Use the lower hole.
There are two master cyl types, one has a deep hole for the manual pushrod, the other has a shallow hole. Both have been used on power boosters, but require the correct length pushrod that sticks out of the front of the booster.
David

Bench Bleeding,
Have the MC sitting level in a vice with preferably thin wood instead of metal to metal clamping it in place. Have clear plastic hoses that go from the front and rear brake line holes that fit snug enough to not leak air. You want clear plastic lines so that you can be sure you still aren't pumping bits of air. The lines are perfect if they have a natural curve up to the MC resevoirs for each of there position. Cutting the lines it's best to have a razor blade and don't pinch the line near flat or the cut will be out of shape and not flat. Flat staight cuts make mating the line the MC a lot easier. Now with your outer limits style MC fill it up with fluid and do a few pumps. I used a butt end of a screw driver so as to not scratch things up. You'll probably notice one of the holes pumping air out it's hole on the resevoir side. I got tired of pumping and still getting small bits of air out the hoses so i loosened the MC and worked some of the air out the resevoir hole by tilting around. It seems all MC are calibrated to be a pain and require some fast and vigerous pumping or the air likes to follow a piston back and forth in the MC. Once you have clear fluid always coming out of the clear plastic lines feeding back into the resevoirs you air happy. Then it's time to swap in the screw in plugs real quick and go to work installing the MC. Be real careful and always check on the level of fluid in the MC even when not bleeding because the thing might do some gravity feeding slow but enough to get the level down to possibly air in the MC again.

Currently doing the same. My question is - How do you get the pin out of the fork that bolts to the brake arm. I removed every thing but the pin interferes with the bracing to the left of the peddel. I removed the clip and pushed the pin but, no doing. Do I have to remove the brace to get it out? Whay is the best way to measure the correct length rod? Mine came together as one. Last question, I have a 68 and ordered every thing for 69. Will my rod length be right?
Thanks for your responces

I did the swap a while back and ran into a rod problem too. neither hole would allow the peddle to fully retract to the stop, and when you started the car, the peddle would go to the floor and return by its self, and I could never get the brakes to bleed properly. what I did was brought the peddle up to the stop and measured how short it was, trimmed a bolt off <saved the threads> to use as an extension. I used loc-tite to secure the extension <never hurts>