I have searched the archives but didn't find an answer.
I have just replaced my booster and mast cyl on my '69 power disc/drum. I also purged the lines of all fluid. After bench bleeding the mast cyl and installing, I was attempting to bleed all of the lines. I am using my mityvac pump.
The problem is at the bleeder screw on the drivers side front. It will not seal. After I tighten the screw, you can see fluid slowly rise from the screw and drip. I took the bleeder screw off (again) and put new teflon tape on. After reinstalling the screw, it still leaks. The other front doesn't leak.
Is this just a matter of replacing the one bleeder screw or is there other problems?

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Dave
'69 Z11 Pace Car, 350/4 speed, manual top, console w/gauges, tilt rosewood wheel, AM radio

Dave;
Try removing the screw again and checking the end seat area for any pits, rust or scratches, replace it if you see anything that looks like it would prevent the bleeder from seating properly.
Also look down into the caliper with a strong light to check the bleeder seat for any pits, rust or other marks that would prevent sealing.
I have run into several over the years that would leak and except for one that broke off in the caliper, they all had pitting and rust that prevented sealing.

Agree with Vintage. The threads are not the sealing area - it's the chamfered area on the bottom of the bleeder screw. If there are any pits or the bolt has been over-tightened before, it will not seal.

My experiene is that the Teflon tape idea is a joke...the brake fluid almost disolves the tape making it worthless.

Use some grease...I've found it much more effective. But,..

Here's what I do when I can't get the air out of the system because of bleeder valve problems. It's the ol' gravity method.

1. Top off your master...replace the top.

2. Pump the brake pedal 2-3 times 3/4's the way down.

3. Connect your wrench and your clear hose to the bleeder.

4. Put the free end of your hose in a clear plastic container (coke bottle) that's 1/5 full of fresh fluid. (make sure the end of the hose is submerged and the bottle is low...on the ground).

5. Remove the master cylinder top (allows quicker flow)

6. Open the bleeder about 1/3 of a turn...wait for the fluid in your clear hose to become free of air bubbles.

6. When there are no more bubbles, tighten the bleeder screw, go to next closest wheel (closest to the master)

It takes about 10-15 minutes per wheel, but this works when the bleeder screws aren't cooperating.

If air seems impossible to purge, it's a good bet it's getting past your bleeder screws as the brake pedal is pumped back and forth. This gravity method requires no pedal pumping while the bleeder is open. It's also a one-man job. Give it a shot...it takes a while but it should give you the high-hard pedal you're looking for.

Good luck!

Update.
I tried a new bleeder screw but that didn't solve the problem. I bought a rebuilt caliper and installed it. That solved the leaky bleeder screw.
I went on to bleed all of the lines again with the mityvac pump. After going thru every wheel, I wasn't satisfied. With the pump drawing the fluid, I was getting nothing but a foaming type of bubbles.
I started over to do it as stated in the previous reply. When I pumped the pedal, it felt easy, slushy and stayed near the floor. Isn't it supposed to have enough pressure to feel like you are at least pushing fluid?
I've only done this much brake work once before and had NO trouble that time (other than the WIFE method of pumping and holding the pedal).
Please help this poor old redneck!

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Dave
'69 Z11 Pace Car, 350/4 speed, manual top, console w/gauges, tilt rosewood wheel, AM radio

you aint no poor old redneck. if you were, brake bleeding would be a simple thing to do- with a vacuum cleaner, some fuel line, and duct tape to seal out the air.don't forget the vise-grips. acces to the bleeder screws would be easy, what with the car being on blocks with the wheels long gone...
I kid, I kid..

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1971 Nova(looks like 69 camaro from underneath!)
355sb, vortec heads, HOT cam,T-10 tranny, 3.70 gears 16X8" IROC wheels. 12" Corvette brakes on the way.
see pics here http://community.webshots.com/user/novaderrik

I am having the same problem right now on my 69 with discs/drums. I put a new booster and MC on the car recently, thought that was the problem. It wasn't. I read that you need to push a rubber boot on the holdoff valve, which I didn't even know what was until a short while ago. I tried this last night, but was not successful. I could feel some sort of stud under the boot, but I could not get it to move. I am not sure if it supposed to, or if it is some kind of vent. Really frustrating, I have been trying to solve this for weeks. I am going to buy a new combo valve today and re-plumb the lines at the MC. If this doesn't work, you'll hear my scream from So. Cal.....

Mark

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69 SS, Stroker 489, Tremec TKO, Tight Road Suspension

Sounds like you had a bad caliper. I bought a caliper a while back and the remanufacturer had screwed the bleeder into the caliper all the was up to the hex. When I pulled it out, the hole in the end of the screw was crushed closed. I took the caliper back.

I know how you guys feel. My car was stuck in the garage for a couple of months while I tried to figure out the proper fixes. I bled the system 3 times before I was happy and still feel that I should try to rebleed the back half again.

I had a very difficult time using the Mity-Vac to bled my brakes, especially the rears. I went with the time tested "friend and a six-pack" method. The method we used was to slowly push on the pedal 2 or 3 times to build pressure and then open the bleeder screw. Don't pump the pedal quickly, you will just disperse big air bubbles into millions of tiny ones. If you are having trouble getting fluid to flow out of the rear bleeders, open the bleeder and have the friend pump the pedal several times until fluid starts gushing out. Don't worry about closing the bleeder between pumps - it doesn't matter because you already have air in the system. After fluid flows freely, go to the method described above.

Mean 69, I think you have to push the button only if you are pressure bleeding the system. That's the way the dealership does it.

Do the speed bleeders work well? I have some but haven't got them on yet.

Update on my car. Turns out that it was my wonderful, 32 year old Holdoff valve that was the problem. I yanked it off of the car and directly plumbed the MC to the distribution block. Bled the system, and got a super hard pedal. I know I'll have to put a different holdoff in there, but I plan on quickly going to discs all around, so I'll deal with it at that point.

Found a slightly leaking bleeder screw too. Ain't brakes fun?

Mark

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69 SS, Stroker 489, Tremec TKO, Tight Road Suspension

Try it without the holdoff valve for a while. I have a buddy without it, and he has no problems. It only comes into play under VERY light brake applications under 40 psi line pressure.
David

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Check my web page for First Gen Camaro suspension info:
David's Motorsports page (http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/David_Pozzi/)
First Gen Suspension Page (http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/David_Pozzi/first_gen_suspension.htm)
67 RS 327 original owner. 69 Camaro Vintage Racer, 65 Lola T-70 Chev SB Can-Am Vintage Racer

I drove the car around the block a couple times yesterday, it seemed completely normal. No hard braking yet, but seemed to be fine. It was very nice to drive my car, after months of getting it ready from an engine transplant (SB-BB).

I know I am going to do the big brake swap pretty soon, including rear discs, so I'll take care of the valving at that point.

By the way, anyone have an extra set of front drum brake hubs laying around? The bone yards in my area don't have a big selection of 70's cars.

Mark

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69 SS, Stroker 489, Tremec TKO, Tight Road Suspension

drdave,
did you ever figure anything out?

novaderrik,
LMAO! too much...

Damon,
I've heard some good things about the speed bleeders making things real easy, but the early ones supposedly started leaking after a while. I'm pretty sure I heard that they fixed that.

mean69,
Are you looking for some front drum spindles or the whole setup? I have a set that came off my '70 Nova if interested. Also, you mentioned going to rear disk brakes... do you need a set of those? I have a setup off a 78 Fleetwood that is the same as the TAs all ready to go! I was going to put them on my Nova, but decided I couldn't afford the calipers at the last moment. Let me know on either one or both.

Good luck,
Bill C.


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Bill C.
Colorado Springs, CO

68 Camaro... someday!
71 Chevelle SS
70 Nova

BC. I started another post on my problem (Brakes again...). I replaced the caliper to cure the leaky bleeder. Now I have a problem with the pedal not returning, thus locking the brakes. I have to pull the pedal up maually to release the brakes. http://www.camaros.net/forum/frown.gif

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Dave
'69 Z11 Pace Car, 350/4 speed, manual top, console w/gauges, tilt rosewood wheel, AM radio