Curtman
Nov 17th, 03, 11:25 AM
Ive decided to got with subframe connectors vs. cocktail shakers. Ive read the threads on this topic so I feel quite informed. My question to those who have gone this route...I am currently looking at one on Ebay (bolt on). I questioned the seller if it was compatible with a convertible and he had no definite answer. Your wisdom is greatly appreciated on this. Are coup & convertible subframe connectors cross compatible?
Curt
jrager
Nov 18th, 03, 11:42 AM
I only know of one subframe connector that fits first gen convertibles. It is the Global West convertible subframe connector.
You can cut your floors and use other ones or cut the connector to make it fit your floors but the only one that does not require you to cut are the Global West ones.
You have to weld them in the rear and bolt them in the front.
That is what I have on my vert.
jrager
Nov 18th, 03, 11:44 AM
By the way.... Welcome to the site. There is alot of great information to be found here. Feel free to email me if you have any questions or want pictures.
john.c.rager@xo.com
Curtman
Nov 20th, 03, 05:54 AM
Thanks John, appreciate your advise.
Curt
Curtman
Nov 20th, 03, 05:56 AM
BTW, just looked at your car...you might wanna go back to the site and wipe my drool off the picks so others can enjoy it
DjD
Nov 20th, 03, 06:43 AM
Curt - the cocktail shakers work like balancing a wheel with weights and also act like a dampner on the front of an engine. Sub frame connectors will stiffen the frame (bolt-in not nearly as much as weld-in). Sub frame connectors help any Camaro as they kind of convert the car to full frame, I said "kind of". smile.gif A convertible Camaro has another structural issue and that's the missing roof structure. Chevy engineers put together a combination of rocker's, X-brace, cocktail shakers and even the plates that bolt in and cover the hyd top actuators under the rear side panels. The sub frames are a big plus but unless you are installing a full cage loosing the shakers or any of the other parts designed to give the ragtop longevity as well as improved ride quality isn't advised.
I've seen ragtops that every nut and bolt seems to come loose from time to time. A trip over RR tracks makes the cowl and dash area flex like it was made of rubber and driving along there has been a vibration or resonance(sp?) that comes and goes as speed changes. All caused by missing shakers and or X-braces... I know loosing a hundred lbs just by removing a few bolts is tempting and easy to rationalize because most other ragtops don't have them... The rub is they were designed differently... I think Steve says it all in this post...
Originally posted by Steve W:
OK, for those of you who may be curious...the install went great. Amazing what you can do when you have the right parts! Cleaned 'em up, emptied them and refilled them with just slightly over 1 qt of trans fluid,(thanks, Vintage 68)leaving just a bit of air space (about 3/8")inside. Here's what I noticed...when full of fluid and you tap them on the ground, they have a kind of "sproingy" effect, you can vaguely feel the weights and springs inside sort of vibrate and oscillate, but when they are empty and you tap them, they bounce like jumping beans! Makes me wonder about perhaps filling them all the way up. Couldn't get 1.25 quarts in them anyway, but I could have filled them to the very top, leaving no airspace at all. Hmmmm, if it wasn't such a pain to put 'em in and take 'em out, I'd do a little experimenting with different volumes and viscosities of fluids. But for now, I am satisfied.
I just took out the headlight assembly, battery tray, etc. Went in through the front. Didn't have to touch the grill or anything. It took a bit of finesse to get them in place, very tight, and these things weigh a TON when you're balancing them on your fingertips. (I didn't even know I knew some of those cuss words!)
The radiator support already had the holes, the bottom tabs mount into the fender extension bolts already there. Only had to drill one hole per side for the other tab. Very straight forward.
Now, for the real test...what a difference in the ride quality of the car! Just went for a short ride, but oh man! Its really noticable over pot-holes and road irregularities. That "shimmy-shake" is all but gone. I was amazed. I didnt think those little boat anchors could have that dramatic of an effect. I'll know more when I take it out for a real shakedown cruise. But for now, it was worth all the hassle. Glad I did it, and to all you guys who offered help, advice and opinions...Thank You! What a great buncha guys we got here. And to anyone else with a first gen F body convertible, if you don't have the cans, get 'em! They DO make a difference.
Curtman
Nov 20th, 03, 11:57 AM
Thanks Dennis...for making me even more undecided..lol..just kidding. I would prefer the shakers I believe but...they are hard to find and when you do...they are mucho dinero...Ive seen many on Ebay..but...the shipping makes them more expensive and the condition can be deceptive. Do you the visual difference from the 69's vs 67/68?
There was a full set forsale on this site not to long ago that looked in excellent shape..but I believe was $500 + shipping. Ricks first gen is always out of them..because of the rarity im sure. A GM or retired GM engineer should make one aftermarket....Im sure it would be monatarly (sp) worth while & im sure it could be improved upon with modern technology.
DjD
Nov 20th, 03, 01:09 PM
These should help...
http://www.camaros.net/cgi-bin/forum/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=17;t=000768
http://www.camaros.net/forum/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=17;t=000738;p=1
Peter Constantine
Nov 20th, 03, 02:15 PM
jrager-I'm getting off-topic here but what sort of finish is on your garage floor? Paula and I are in the permitting process for an addition on the house which includes a 30'x40'(YIPPEEE!!!)garage and I'm studying floors.That looks terrific-oh,yeah,pretty nice ragtop,too!
Thanks,
Peter