: David Pozzi, question about part on your website.
Dec 14th, 03, 08:33 PM
I was checking out your website again and I'm thinking about making the improved clutch linkage you have on there, looks good. I understand how you're doing it except the part about tapping the tube 5/16-24 after tapping it 3/8-16 so I'm guessing you mean going down to 3" with the 5/16 tap but what is the reason for this or do you mean from other end to put in shank? Also what exactly did you make the tube length for the short one? Where can I get the alum tubing a website or can you sell me some? Thanks
Here's your page.
The two cluctch pedal rods are a 69, second up from bottom, with bend, and a 67/68 bottom, with no bend.
The 67/68 rod is shorter at 11 5/8" ctr to ctr.
The 69 rod is 11 7/8" ctr to ctr.
The lower clutch adjuster rod is in the middle with aluminum replacement version above it. I cut the rod end shank (left) to about 3/4" long to allow more threads for the adjuster. You will need a special deep tap to tap for the 3/8"-16 threads for the adjuster I tapped 2 1/2" deep and left a half inch of 5/16"-24 threads for the rod end.
Below is a new photo of the deep tap needed for the adjuster.
The rod end is self lubricating bronze, made by Seal Master, Part number TM5Y. McMaster Carr part number 6072K83, search on this number on their web site http://www.mcmaster.com/
The alunimum tube is 1/2" OD X .110" wall.
Dec 15th, 03, 02:09 AM
Let me help here, the adjuster has more threads (3/8"-16 threads), so he tapped the aluminum tube deeper on that end to have more adjustment available, hence the "special deep tap" to tap up to 2-1/2" deep. At the other end he tapped just 1/2" deep and shortened the rod end shank to 3/4" lenght. This side of the tube needs 5/16-24 threads. For the short tube lenght, I made it by instaling the other part of the ***'y and measuring the area, like trial and error, the adjuster will give you a ± adjustment to compensate for any lenght variation. Leave the short for last. My 2 cents.
Mc Master should have the tube. Mc Master Carr (http://www.mcmaster.com/)
I just found solid rod around here, so I needed to drill the ends. A little heavier, but who cares? ;)
Dec 15th, 03, 06:01 AM
Deep tapping is not a requirement but you MAY have to trim some off of the original fork pushrod (threaded section that fits into fork end).
Remove the clutch linkage rods from the car at their installed length. Make the new rods such that the middle of the adjustment is equal to the old rod length. This will give you adjustability.
Dec 15th, 03, 07:54 AM
I wanted my clutch adjuster to function like a stock adjuster. so to get enough internal room for that, I had to shorten the threaded shank of the rod end.
The nut on the old adjuster is in the stock position where it was when removed from my Camaro. If you tap less deep for the adjuster the rod may wind up a little long.
If the aluminum tube were a little shorter and the rod end left full length, you could adjust length more by turning the rod end in or out.
Dec 15th, 03, 07:14 PM
Ok thanks for clearing that up about the 5/16th tap. I checked out Mcmaster.com for alum tubing but the thickest wall I could find was .065 which gives an ID of .370 we all know that won't work. I'm pasteing the page below for tubing I'm looking at. I know that ID should be .280 Is it somewhere else on the site or is it another vendor? Do you really notice a difference with this linkage in place? Can you still use the stock rubber boot w/out it hindering it? Thanks
Catalog page 108
Rigid Aluminum Tubing
• Temperature Range: -112° to +300° F
• Bendable: No
• Flareable: No
• 1/2 Hard Temper H14: Moderate tensile (stretching) strength
• Fittings: Compression (see pages 119-134 ) Also known as Alloy 3003-H14, this seamless corrosion-resistant aluminum alloy tubing contains manganese for strength. Tubing can be welded. For use with air, water, oil, and natural gas. Sterilize with steam (autoclave). Meets ASTM B210 and Fed. Spec. WW-T-700/2. Offered in 6-ft. lengths.
OD Max. psi
OD ID Wall Tolerance @ 75° F Each
3/16" 0.1435" 0.022" ±.003" 490 8978K51 $3.43
1/4" 0.18" 0.035" ±.003" 580 8978K53 2.91
3/8" 0.305" 0.035" ±.003" 390 8978K55 4.77
1/2" 0.43" 0.035" ±.004" 290 8978K59 6.17
1/2" 0.37" 0.065" ±.004" 540 8978K62 11.31
5/8" 0.555" 0.035" ±.004" 230 8978K63 6.98
5/8" 0.495" 0.065" ±.004" 440 8978K65 13.74
3/4" 0.68" 0.035" ±.004" 190 8978K66 10.34
Dec 16th, 03, 07:32 PM
CarlC came up with the aluminum tube that I have. It was left over from his project. I don't recall where he got it.
It's half inch OD with .110" wall, so the ID is .280" To tap for 5/16" fine thread, just tap it. You have to drill it out for the adjuster rod.
Dec 17th, 03, 12:49 PM
Can you get me some of that tubing and how much for it?
Did you really notice a difference between the two linkages when driving? My water temp gauge line goes thru the f/wall clutch linkage hole, I'm thinking this is not a good place for it? I have a new clutch link boot I'd really like to use too. Thanks
Dec 17th, 03, 01:31 PM
If you are having trouble getting the tubing with a thick wall, consider getting solid aluminum rod. Aluminum is easy to drill, tap, machine. The weight difference between tube and solid with aluminum will be small. Even at that I wouldn't recommend aluminum for anything but a stock clutch.
I did my linkage with 1/2" steel rod and 3/8" bronze lined ends. This is with a RAM racing clutch. Many years ago the Z-bar was reinforced with an angle piece from the long upright due to cracking with this clutch. Then again this baby holds. . .
Oh, the rod-end upgrade is well worth it. Nice & smooth with better clutch control.
Dec 17th, 03, 01:34 PM
Originally posted by RamJam:
I have a new clutch link boot I'd really like to use too. Thanks Don't know if this is a known tip. . . it is much easier to install a new boot from the interior (at least with power brakes). It is supposed to be mounted on the outside of the firewall. From the inside is sooo much easier.
Dec 17th, 03, 07:22 PM
Yeh, I know I can use alum rod but it would be much easier to do if hollow since I don't have a lathe.
When you say about installing boot from inside do you mean have it go thru same way but metal outline of boot would mount inside and rest of boot protrude thru hole? Thanks
Dec 18th, 03, 01:28 AM
Hmm, I forgot about the lathe part.
Yes for the boot. The boot is mounted with the bellows going out the firewall into the engine bay.
If you don't mind using steel tubing here is a page to MSC:
Even have some nice stainless stuff. . .
Dec 19th, 03, 10:06 AM
Carl has the setup working and likes it, mine hasn't been tried yet so I don't know how much improvement it makes.
I have concerns about the firewall boot tearing, I hear it tears easily. I think some silicone spray on the rod would help plus positioning the boot on the rod so it isn't stressed all the time.
Dec 19th, 03, 11:44 AM
Any karting shop should have what you need.
Like this- http://ebmhost1.ebm.bestsoftwarehost.com:835/iwwidb.pvx?;multi_item_submit
They even have hex tie rods(stronger) but probably would not seal well to the boot, but would make some nice custom shift link rods.
I fixed the link for you - Pozzi
Thanks David, the link doesn't take you direclty to them, but just click on Steering Componets,and that's them.
[ 12-20-2003, 04:12 PM: Message edited by: 68Datona ]
Dec 19th, 03, 11:52 AM
I've got 10' of tubing in the garage. I can spare a few feet!
If you have a metal supply house, not a hardware store, they may have this size. Industrial Metal Supply in Sun Valley, CA had it in stock. Here it is:
Select Product: Aluminum: Round Tube: 1/2 x 0.120" wall.
If you need some tubing shoot me an email.
Dec 20th, 03, 03:11 AM
I used 1/2" chromoly rod for my linkage. It has been in the car for about 19 years with no problems. My car has a stock clutch in it. The linkage works smoother and doesn't bind. I originally did this because at the time there were no repro parts and my originals were so worn that they were about to break! HTH,
Dec 21st, 03, 01:27 PM
How about this....
Dec 22nd, 03, 07:24 PM
DRJ, That linkage is nice. I might have to give them a call.