Okay, so I installed my March Serpentine upgrade this weekend so I'd finally have some aligned pulleys to wrap a belt around and complete my power steering install.

I filled the reservior to 2" from top, jacked the front end up and cranked that wheel back and forth about 100 times. The fluid level didn't budge more than an inch.

So I hand rotated the pump about 1000 revolutions (no I didn't really count), still no budge. So I cranked the wheel a hundred more times....nothing.
I filled the reservoir to the top and did all of the above again...no movement. :confused:

How much fluid should I expect to have to crank through this puppy before the level stops dropping? Is 1" enough to fill the hoses and box?

I fear starting the engine, because I don't want the dreaded bubbling/erupting pump scenario to foul my new pulleys and belts. graemlins/clonk.gif

Fearing the worst...I think I'd lip lock the pump and blow into it before I start the engine. :eek:

JIML82, you out there? Any advice...Anyone?
Thanks!
Tim

The very best way to eliminate all the air from inside your steering system is to make an adapter to fit on the neck of your power steering pump reservoir. Then connect a vacuum source to the adapter. Draw a real good vacuum and hold it for about 10 minutes. Refill the reservoir to the COLD mark on the capstick. (There is a GM service tool designed to pull a vacuum on the power steering system. I am not sure if there are any aftermarket equivalents.)

Otherwise, jack up your front wheel and rotate your steering wheel lock to lock a dozen or so times. Refill the reservoir to the COLD mark on the capstick. Turn steering wheel lock to lock another dozen times. Refill reservoir. Start the car. Look at the fluid in the reservoir. If it looks milky, then there was still some air left when you started up. Make sure to check the fluid level. Let the car down and go for a short ride. At worse, you may have to let the car sit overnight to allow the last of the air to come out of the power steering fluid.

I also suggest that you use genuine GM power steering fluid. It is the only fluid that is specifically formulated to operate with the Saginaw line of power steering pumps.

I did the turn the wheel method and it worked very well. I had a new AGR box and Sweet pump. When I started the engine the level droped just slightly but no foam! graemlins/thumbsup.gif

I used to just fill the system, start the engine for 15-20 seconds, shut down, refill, repeat until the system stayed full. I got more bubbles that way, but it works if you can't jack the car up.

I put some Valvoline synthetic fluid in there, hope it works!
David

Thanks, guys. graemlins/beers.gif
Jacking up the front and crankig the wheel aint helping at all in my case.

I'll put the belt back on and try running it a little first without turning the wheel to see if the level goes down a little. The pump is a stock Saginaw and the box is a rebuilt Buick GNX 12:1 box.

Also received some e-mail advice to just turn the wheel slightly while the engine is running. It will create bubbles, but they'll go away.

I overfilled it last night out of desparation and hoped I'd be able to see the level drop off easier.
If I end up with any excess when the level is all done lowering, I'll syphon it out.

I'm also using the Valvoline Synthetic.

I've got time since I'm still waiting for a Master Power combo valve to complete my SSBC brake install. My old combo valve was for 4 wheel drums and was way to crudded up to try and salvage.

Gotta get this Garage Queen back on the road in the next couple weeks before the wife starts piling Costco Toilet Paper and stuff on it again....and starts looking like this guy graemlins/angry.gif

...Just not right...

Tim

I'd fill and run the engine briefly to fill it, then when the level is stable, try turning it. Just don't let it run more than 30 seconds at a time the first couple of fills, then you can run for a longer time.
David

Got it done. The biggest problem was my fear of hydraulic systems. I've been this way ever since...the incident....Next week I have to bleed my brakes after I finish installing the new MC and combo valve. :eek:

Followed Davids advice (and some e-mail advice from Brian) to run the engine for about 20 secs then shut it down. The fluid was finally drawn into the box, and I did get a thin layer of foam, but it dissipated quickly.

Added a little more fluid, jacked up the front end and then cranked the wheel side to side a dozen times without the engine running. A few large bubbles came through the lines while doing this.

I fired it up again and let it run for another 20 seconds while turning the wheel slowly one time in each direction to lock.

Shut it down, brought the fluid back to level, cranked the wheel a dozen or so more times, lowered the car and that was it.

Fired the engine again and tried turning the wheel side to side with weight on wheels. Feels good to be able to turn the wheel without hanging all 215 lbs off the side of the steering wheel in the direction I want to turn. It's easier to turn than my 97 Grand Prix GTP or 98 Landcruiser.

Going less than 2 turns lock to lock is very nice too!!!

Almost ready for a test drive...... graemlins/hurray.gif
Thanks for the feedback!
Tim